The Wine Advocate

In the southernmost tip of the Bolgheri appellation, where the vines almost touch the sea and rows of pine trees stand guard over the landscape, lies Tenuta Le Colonne – the winery with the vineyards closest to the sea in the entire denomination. Under the leadership of Alejandro Bulgheroni, organically certified wines of impressive clarity have been produced here since 2016. Originating from vineyards at an altitude of 50 metres with a south-westerly exposure, the vines are rooted in sandy alluvial soils with skeleton-rich inclusions. Spontaneous fermentation in truncated cone-shaped cement tanks with indigenous yeasts for 13 days, followed by twelve months of ageing in large, untoasted barrels, gives this wine its characteristic elegance.

"Cladrecis" is an elegant interpretation of Chardonnay from the far north-east of Italy – full of character, harmonious and impressively balanced. The grapes come from a small parcel in the eponymous district of the municipality of Prepotto, whose chalky soils and cool microclimate offer ideal conditions for the finesse typical of the grape variety. Maturation in wooden barrels and on the fine lees gives the wine a subtle creaminess, fine roasted flavours and a hint of vanilla without masking the freshness.

Light, bright straw yellow with a subtle greenish shimmer – is how this exceptional white wine appears in the glass. The grapes come 100% from Nascetta, probably the only autochthonous white wine variety in the Langhe, which has been revitalised in Novello far beyond eye level – as a true expression of the diversity of regional grape varieties. The wine is matured in equal parts in stainless steel tanks and Slavonian 15-litre oak barrels – precisely balanced to combine freshness with an enveloping structure.

Palazzotto is the name of the two hectares of vineyard where only Cabernet Sauvignon is grown. Fausto Maculan vinifies a fine wine from these grapes. A spicy start in the glass: cedar wood and ground ginger give way to dusty roses and redcurrants. It's elegant yet refined, with creamy textures lifted by vibrant acidity, while a wave of mineral-tinged wild berries lightly wash over the palate. Leaves a tart note of citrus and raspberry and subtle, grippy tannins that frame the wine without slowing its momentum. Although already showing very well now, this beautifully balanced version of Palazzotto should improve even more with medium-term cellaring. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes come from the historic centrepiece of the Planeta estate in Ulmo near Sambuca di Sicilia – a vineyard that was planted back in the mid-1980s. The vines are rooted at an altitude of around 250 metres in loamy-sandy soils with a high lime content, not far from Lake Arancio. Deep ruby red in the glass with a purple rim. The nose opens powerfully and invitingly: black cherry, plum, cassis and blueberry, accompanied by cocoa, tobacco, fresh leather and a subtle herbal spice. On the palate, Sito dell'Ulmo is both full-bodied and elegant: dense, with polished tannins, fresh acidity and a long, silky finish. The integration of the wood is finely balanced and the fruit always remains in the foreground. A Sicilian Merlot with format, origin and depth. SUPERIORE.DE

Le Redini Rosso consists mainly of Merlot and a small proportion of Alicante. The wine opens with dark intensity and a velvety texture with lots of fresh blackberry, plum, earth and wild rose. Pure red fruit on the palate, very supple, the delicate wood note well integrated. The refined notes of a Merlot from the Conca d'Oro come across wonderfully. SUPERIORE.DE

Donnafugata's impressive declaration of love to Etna, currently the hottest wine hotspot, began with the Sul Vulcano line. Light ruby red in colour, with a bouquet of wild strawberry and delicate hints of black cherry, cinnamon and nutmeg. The corresponding, fresh flavour and subtle elegance lead to a harmonious and energetic finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The vines of this single-vineyard Barbera are rooted at the highest point of the hill in the renowned Ravera and Pasinotti vineyards near Novello. Grown on soils rich in limestone and clay with a south-south-easterly exposure at an altitude of 300-400 metres, the wine reflects both elegance and a clear origin. The wine matures for around 12 months in large Slavonian wooden barrels, which give it depth without masking the freshness of the fruit.

Dievole's new Chianti Classico Casanova, just released with the debut 2020 vintage, is the result of a quest to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. The Casanova grapes come from a vineyard at an altitude of about 400 metres, with an ideal south-west to south-east exposure and composed mainly of sandstone rocks Macigno del Chianti. The result is a Chianti Classico that is very immediate and direct, with a beautiful acidity to boot. It has the elegance and freshness and the bright, radiant fruit of Chianti Classico "as it used to be".

A wine with history, personality and depth of character: Centovie is the centrepiece of a long-term project at the organically farmed Tenuta Centovie near Roseto degli Abruzzi. The 35 hectares of vineyards on the southern slope near Montipagano, with a view of the Gran Sasso, produce elegant Montepulciano, among other things – equipped with traditional training systems (pergola in long tendone and short cordon training) and an optimal microclimate.

An Etna Rosso with a clear vision: Ghiaia Nera is the introduction to the volcanic world of Tenuta Tascante – straightforward, elegant and characterised by the dramatic tension of the volcano. The grapes come from various locations on the north side of Mount Etna, around Randazzo and Castiglione di Sicilia. Volcanic sand, high altitude and large temperature differences characterise the style. It is traditionally matured in large wooden barrels. Brilliant ruby red colour with garnet hues in the glass. The nose opens with ripe cherry, dried raspberry, some orange zest and fine herbal notes. Juicy on the palate, with fresh acidity and a fine-grained tannin reminiscent of black tea. A wine with precision and cool noblesse, not a powerhouse, but a finely drawn red wine that clearly emphasises its origins. SUPERIORE.DE

Dievoles Chianti Classico Catignano is the result of the endeavour to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. Catignano is a plateau at 370 metres above sea level, with vineyards of different ages and a large proportion of Alberese. The exposure is westerly and south-easterly, which means plenty of sun during the day, but also cold temperatures at night, with a good temperature range that favours the aromatic development of the grapes.

Campinovi tells the story of the Tuscan terroir from an unusual perspective: pure Trebbiano Toscano, to which Dievole adds a surprising dimension through twelve months of ageing in large, unroasted oak barrels made from Italian rovere and chestnut wood. The grapes grow at an altitude of 300 metres in organically cultivated vineyards, where sandy loam soils with gravel provide a distinctive minerality. Spontaneous fermentation in cement vats at a controlled 18°C preserves the natural freshness, while the subsequent barrel ageing gives the wine its characteristic complexity.

The grapes for Vignota come from five selected vineyards in Monforte d'Alba, whose calcareous marl soils with loamy and sandy inclusions give the Barbera grapes expression and depth. Bright ruby red colour with a purple hue. Aromas of ripe cherry, blackberry and plum, underpinned by violets, herbs and a hint of liquorice. Juicy and balanced on the palate, with present, well-integrated acidity and soft, fine-grained tannins. After fermentation, the wine matures for several months in used French barriques, which gives it additional harmony and fine spicy notes. An exciting and very serious Barbera with a regional profile and good structure. SUPERIORE.DE

Solicchiata, northern slope of Mount Etna, 800 metres. The Faro family has dug deep into the volcano here since 2005 – literally, because the sandy soils of weathered lava rock allow roots to travel far. 100% Nerello Mascalese, Alberello, vines between 50 and 65 years old. Hand-picked, two weeks of maceration, three months in fine-grained oak barrels. Not a wood wine – a volcanic wine. Brilliant ruby red colour in the glass. The nose opens dark and complex: boysenberry, crushed black cherry, wild flowers, ash, a hint of rosemary and thyme, pink pepper. Silky and medium-bodied on the palate – juicy acidity, fine tannins, a persistent mineral flavour. The finish is long and tense, with a tart cherry flavour that lingers. Not an easy entry-level wine, but a beautiful red with substance and good potential. SUPERIORE.DE

What distinguishes a Riserva from an Annata? Time. Time to select the best Sangiovese grapes from the estate's twelve plots. Time for a 25-day vinification process that is conducted with the utmost respect for tradition. And time for at least 21 months in French oak barrels, followed by further bottle ageing before the wine leaves the estate.

This visionary wine comes from the legendary Conca d'Oro in Panzano and epitomises Giampaolo Motta's radical break with the traditions of Chianti Classico. The Neapolitan, who lost his heart to the Tuscan soil, took the courageous step of declassifying in 2002 – out of a burning desire for absolute oenological freedom. The cuvée combines Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to create a Burgundian-Bordelaise dialogue that captures the mineral power of the Galestro and Alberese soils on a south-westerly slope. The wine is carefully vinified in French barriques for ten months "sur lie" with regular bâtonnage, giving the wine a wonderfully silky structure.

Donnafugata's impressive declaration of love to Etna, currently the hottest wine hotspot, began with the Sul Vulcano line. Carricante is one of the most exciting grape varieties in southern Italy, capable of complexity and terroir-driven expression in the right soils. The vines for Donnafugata's only white wine from Etna grow on volcanic soils rich in minerals at an altitude of 700-750 metres. The wine is fermented in steel tanks before maturing partly in concrete tanks and partly in second and third choice barriques for 10 months and then a further nine months in the bottle.

The eruption of 1614 is legendary in the history of Etna, as it lasted ten years, making it the longest recorded eruption of the active volcano to date. A very impressive and fitting name for Planeta's Etna series of equally impressive wines. It could hardly be more autochthonous: this excellent wine from the Nerello Mascalese grape comes from the hotspot on the east coast of Sicily, from the slopes of Mount Etna. Bright cherry red in colour, a fine aroma of raspberry and blood orange, gripping, taut acidity, silky tannins and a lively elegance with beautiful minerality. Great, long and unique! SUPERIORE.DE

A wine of origin and rarity value – ferentano is a pure white wine made from the old Roscetto vine, cultivated around Montefiascone on Lake Bolsena. The very thick berry skins store intense flavours, while the controlled ageing (including barrique) combines purity and depth. Medium straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. Exotic notes of banana, pineapple and ripe peach on the nose, combined with vegetal accents and a hint of vanilla. Rich and soft on the palate, with plenty of substance, balancing acidity and a long, red fruit finish – perfectly animating and without sweetness. An inimitable white wine with a surprising fullness and elegant structure – a Roscetto that is authentic through and through! SUPERIORE.DE

In 1970, Siro Pacenti planted his first vines on the Pelagrilli slope north of Montalcino – on sandy-loamy soils, rich in minerals and favoured by the cooling westerly winds of the hills. Since 1988, his son Giancarlo has managed the estate with a precision that he learnt in Bordeaux and has applied to the Sangiovese Grosso of Montalcino ever since: harvest to the exact parcel, gentle extraction, ageing in small French barriques – not for flavour, but for purity. The Rosso comes from vines between 15 and 25 years old, twelve months in the barrel, unfiltered in the bottle – with the express recommendation to decant.

Classic Etna Rosso from Nerello Mascalese with a small proportion of Nerello Cappuccio – grown at an altitude of over 700 metres in various contrade on the northern flank of the volcano, where ash, lava rock and the alpine microclimate form an unmistakable style. Medium ruby red in colour with a garnet-red rim. On the nose, fragrant sour cherry, redcurrant, humming berry, a metallic hint, floral notes and subtle spice. Precise on the palate, with cool fruit, lively acidity and fine-grained tannins. The ageing in used wooden barrels and cement tanks maintains the balance and expression of origin. An authentic, elegant Etna Rosso with good drinkability. SUPERIORE.DE