The Wine Advocate

A white gravel track leads to the estate; it is narrow but not difficult to navigate, winding through a dense forest of holm oaks and oaks. In the north of Chianti Classico, near Gaiole in Chianti, lies the Vertine vineyard, guarded for centuries by a castle: three hectares laid out in a fan-shaped pattern on a hill at an altitude of 500 metres, open to the south and south-west. The soil consists of galestro and alberese, rich in stones, forcing the Sangiovese roots to reach deep down. The grapes are harvested by hand into 10-kilo crates, followed by a second selection at the sorting table. Fermentation takes place in concrete tanks, where the wine remains for 12 months; it is then aged for a further year in the bottle before leaving the estate.

Swiss precision meets Tuscan passion: since 1990, Monika and Thomas Baer-Bettschart have been realising their dream at the Antico Podere Gagliole in Castellina in Chianti. Rubiolo is the certified organic tribute to over three decades of winegrowing in one of Tuscany's most beautiful terroirs. Made exclusively from Sangiovese grapes sourced from both the historic terraces around Castellina and the famous Conca d'Oro in Panzano, this wine embodies the synthesis of two exceptional vineyards.

This classic red wine is grown on marl and clay-rich soils on the high, steep hills near Taurasi, not far from the Tyrrhenian Sea. The soils are rich in minerals and salts, lending the Aglianico grape a wonderful depth and minerality.

An authentic expression of Piedmont: this pure Nebbiolo comes from young vines (from both the Tortona and Serravallo terroirs) at higher altitudes around Barolo, Novello and Sinio. Produced in a completely natural style and following traditional vinification methods, it reflects the purity of the grape variety in its purest form. Ageing in stainless steel, with a minimal proportion in neutral oak, emphasises this pure fruit and its origin without any masking.

What Carricante is to white wines, Nerello Mascalese is to reds on Mount Etna: a grape variety shaped more distinctly by this terroir than by any other in the world. Thin-skinned, light in colour, low in tannins – fragile at first glance. At second glance: precise to the very core. The younger Nerello Mascalese vines of Contrada Montedolce form the basis of the Contrade Nuove – direct, approachable, with the freshness that the north-facing slope climate at 730 to 750 metres almost inevitably produces. The warm summer of 2022 gave the wine a little more texture and dark fruit than usual – the timely autumn rain preserved its freshness. Davide Rosso vinifies using a modular approach that is unusual by Etna standards: amphorae for oxygen contact, conical oak barrels and stainless steel. This is Giovanni's deliberate strategy to counteract the Nerello's tendency towards reduction without sacrificing fruit and minerality.

Palazzotto is the name of the two hectares of vineyard where only Cabernet Sauvignon is grown. Fausto Maculan vinifies a fine wine from these grapes. A spicy start in the glass: cedar wood and ground ginger give way to dusty roses and redcurrants. It's elegant yet refined, with creamy textures lifted by vibrant acidity, while a wave of mineral-tinged wild berries lightly wash over the palate. Leaves a tart note of citrus and raspberry and subtle, grippy tannins that frame the wine without slowing its momentum. Although already showing very well now, this beautifully balanced version of Palazzotto should improve even more with medium-term cellaring. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes come from the historic centrepiece of the Planeta estate in Ulmo near Sambuca di Sicilia – a vineyard that was planted back in the mid-1980s. The vines are rooted at an altitude of around 250 metres in loamy-sandy soils with a high lime content, not far from Lake Arancio. Deep ruby red in the glass with a purple rim. The nose opens powerfully and invitingly: black cherry, plum, cassis and blueberry, accompanied by cocoa, tobacco, fresh leather and a subtle herbal spice. On the palate, Sito dell'Ulmo is both full-bodied and elegant: dense, with polished tannins, fresh acidity and a long, silky finish. The integration of the wood is finely balanced and the fruit always remains in the foreground. A Sicilian Merlot with format, origin and depth. SUPERIORE.DE

Le Redini Rosso consists mainly of Merlot and a small proportion of Alicante. The wine opens with dark intensity and a velvety texture with lots of fresh blackberry, plum, earth and wild rose. Pure red fruit on the palate, very supple, the delicate wood note well integrated. The refined notes of a Merlot from the Conca d'Oro come across wonderfully. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine with history, personality and depth of character: Centovie is the centrepiece of a long-term project at the organically farmed Tenuta Centovie near Roseto degli Abruzzi. The 35 hectares of vineyards on the southern slope near Montipagano, with a view of the Gran Sasso, produce elegant Montepulciano, among other things – equipped with traditional training systems (pergola in long tendone and short cordon training) and an optimal microclimate.

An Etna Rosso with a clear vision: Ghiaia Nera is the introduction to the volcanic world of Tenuta Tascante – straightforward, elegant and characterised by the dramatic tension of the volcano. The grapes come from various locations on the north side of Mount Etna, around Randazzo and Castiglione di Sicilia. Volcanic sand, high altitude and large temperature differences characterise the style. It is traditionally matured in large wooden barrels. Brilliant ruby red colour with garnet hues in the glass. The nose opens with ripe cherry, dried raspberry, some orange zest and fine herbal notes. Juicy on the palate, with fresh acidity and a fine-grained tannin reminiscent of black tea. A wine with precision and cool noblesse, not a powerhouse, but a finely drawn red wine that clearly emphasises its origins. SUPERIORE.DE

Dievole's new Chianti Classico Casanova, just released with the debut 2020 vintage, is the result of a quest to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. The Casanova grapes come from a vineyard at an altitude of about 400 metres, with an ideal south-west to south-east exposure and composed mainly of sandstone rocks Macigno del Chianti. The result is a Chianti Classico that is very immediate and direct, with a beautiful acidity to boot. It has the elegance and freshness and the bright, radiant fruit of Chianti Classico "as it used to be".

Dievoles Chianti Classico Petrignano is the result of a commitment to highlighting the distinctive characteristics of particularly well-suited vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of the Sangiovese grape. Petrignano is the name given to a distinctive area characterised by mineral- and stone-rich soil. At an altitude of approximately 330 metres, rocks protrude from the ground, typical of the geological formation of Monte Morello. The abundance of stones, the depth of the roots and the compact growth of the vines result in an expressive and opulent wine from this distinctive and authentic cru site.

Dievoles Chianti Classico Catignano is the result of the endeavour to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. Catignano is a plateau at 370 metres above sea level, with vineyards of different ages and a large proportion of Alberese. The exposure is westerly and south-easterly, which means plenty of sun during the day, but also cold temperatures at night, with a good temperature range that favours the aromatic development of the grapes.

"When Baron Philippe de Rothschild plants Sangiovese, I will switch to Cabernet Sauvignon." John Dunkley, the British founder of Riecine, uttered these words at a time when Sangiovese was under pressure in Tuscany. It was a declaration of faith. And it remained the foundation of the estate through all changes of ownership – until July 2024, when Alessandro Campatelli, the cellar master and director since 2016, acquired the remaining shares and Riecine became entirely his own.

The vines, which are over 50 years old, lie outside the Chianti Classico appellation and were planted by Fabrizio Bianchi back in the 1970s as a sort of "labour of love". Inspired by the great white wines of Burgundy, it was initially fermented exclusively in wooden barrels. Since 2000, however, the proportion of grapes fermented in oak has fallen steadily, so that today almost 70% of the grapes are fermented in stainless steel tanks, which lends the wine freshness and elegance. Delicate fruit, with barely perceptible oak. Fresh and of medium body on the palate; its Burgundian character, along with its lovely structure and length, gradually come to the fore. A refined and fruit-driven Chardonnay that wonderfully embodies both its grape variety and the terroir, whilst never seeming heavy or overbearing. SUPERIORE.DE

It is intended to be a fine everyday wine, and the estate draws on all its resources to achieve this: the grapes for Sassi Chiusi come from Bertinga, Adine and Vertine, the estate's three vineyards. The clay-limestone soil of Bertinga imparts freshness, vigour and a rustic character; the limestone of Adine brings dynamism and complexity; Vertine offers a similar soil, though less uniform and less deep. The blend consists of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Merlot. Both varieties are fermented separately, in steel and concrete; the Sangiovese matures for twelve months in concrete tanks, whilst the Merlot matures in used barriques, after which the wine spends at least twelve months in the bottle.

In 2007, the Rosato was born – because Marco de Grazia's three-year-old daughter, Elena, insisted on it. There was a red wine, there was a white. Why not one in pink too? The winery was already painted pink. All that was missing was the wine. De Grazia, who had not planned to make a Rosato until then, set to work. The result is not a frivolous summer wine, even though it is often enjoyed in summer. De Grazia's stated ideal for his Rosato is: "il corpo di un bianco e l'anima di un rosso". And he adds: "joyful without being frivolous; tension without being austere." Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from vines aged between 25 and 60 years on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, at altitudes of between 600 and 900 metres, on volcanic soils from the estate's various vineyards.

Brolio Riserva is the flagship wine of Italy's most historic winery – a wine that, year after year, bears the hallmark of the Ricasoli family whilst capturing the extraordinary diversity of the Brolio terroir. The 100% Sangiovese grapes are sourced from the estate's five distinctive soil types, situated at altitudes of between 280 and 480 metres – a mosaic of terroir comprising sandstone, galestro, alberese, marine and fluvial deposits, which lends the wine exceptional complexity. Following controlled fermentation in stainless-steel tanks with 12 to 16 days' contact with the skins, the wine matures for 18 months in first- and second-use tonneaux before spending a further three months ageing in the bottle.

βιαηκΩ is an exceptionally precise white wine made from Erbaluce grapes from the Boca micro-region; it is so rare and sought-after that it is allocated each year. Aged in large oak and acacia barrels, this wonderfully fresh and distinctive white wine has reached its peak with this vintage. It is well-structured, with good length, a floral, rich bouquet and plenty of charm. The fresh acidity on the finish makes the wine lively and long-lasting. Aromas of wild Alpine herbs and pears, with a hint of exotic fruits, are framed by a creamy texture and lead into a lingering final. SUPERIORE.DE

What distinguishes a Riserva from an Annata? Time. Time to select the best Sangiovese grapes from the estate's twelve plots. Time for a 25-day vinification process that is conducted with the utmost respect for tradition. And time for at least 21 months in French oak barrels, followed by further bottle ageing before the wine leaves the estate.