Decanter

XVII – the Roman seventeen honours the century in which the Rizzardi family acquired its first vineyards in Negrar in 1678. Since then, the house has cultivated the best vineyards in the Classico zone – pojega, Calcarole, Rovereti – on calcareous clay soils in the hills above the plain. Corvina and Corvinone form the backbone of this cuvée, with Rondinella, Merlot and Croatina providing the accents. Bright purple red in the glass. Shadow cherry and black pepper on the nose, with a hint of cherry blossom and Mediterranean herbs. Round and juicy on the palate, with an invigorating freshness and an earthy, herbal finish. Proof that Valpolicella has depth and character even without Appassimento – and an ideal introduction to the world of Guerrieri Rizzardi. SUPERIORE.DE

Cleto Chiarli travelled to Paris in 1900. In his luggage: bottles of his Lambrusco, fermented using the old method – fermentation in the bottle, no intervention, no dosage. The jury of the World Exhibition awarded him the "Mention Honourable". A century later, the Wine Spectator voted Fondatore one of the top 100 wines in the world. The secret is the process. While the market favours Charmat, Chiarli 1860 sticks to the Metodo Ancestrale for del Fondatore, with the second fermentation taking place in the bottle. This is followed by six months of maturation on the lees. No dosage. The result is a Lambrusco that can be traced back through the vintages – and which shows what this wine sounded like long before anyone had the idea of making it sweet.

Elisabetta Geppetti is more than just a winemaker – she is the "Signora del Morellino", the energetic woman who took over the reins of the family winery at the age of just 20 and helped the Maremma region to achieve international renown. When she pressed the first Morellino in 1985, she laid the foundations for a success story that continues to this day. This wine is the quantitative and qualitative calling card of Le Pupille – a constant, authentic expression of the terroir between Pereta and Magliano in Tuscany. The Morellino combines Sangiovese (90%) with Alicante and the autochthonous Ciliegiolo (5% each) from vineyards exposed to the south-west at an altitude of 50 to 250 metres. The vines, some of which are over 40 years old, are rooted in skeleton-rich, clayey and ferrous soils, cooled by sea breezes and strengthened by pronounced day-night temperature differences. After the harvest at the end of September, the must ferments on the skins for 15 days and matures for eight months, mainly in stainless steel tanks with a small proportion in used barriques.

Barbera with origin and attitude: La Villa has been Olim Bauda's favourite wine for decades – not because it is particularly loud, but because it seems so natural. No barrique, no spectacle, but plenty of character. The secret lies in the balance: fruit and freshness, elegance and energy – everything is there, nothing imposes itself. Bright ruby in the glass with a youthful violet colour. The bouquet plays on the fresh side: sour cherry, raspberry, dried herbs, a hint of violet and a delicate mineral note. On the palate, the typical tension of Asti-Barbera – juicy, clearly contoured, with supple tannins and fine length. A wonderfully authentic wine that breathes the soul of Piedmont – spontaneous, lively, unaffected. If you want to understand the essence of this grape variety, this is the perfect wine for every day. SUPERIORE.DE

Italy connoisseur and wine critic Ian D'Agata writes about the grape variety in his book "Native Wine Grapes of Italy": "Verdicchio is arguably Italy's greatest indigenous white grape variety. This statement may come as a surprise to those who have only tasted neutral or watery Verdicchio wines, sometimes even bottled in incredible amphora-shaped bottles."

In the vineyards between La Morra and Verduno, where Matteo Ascheri has been capturing the essence of Nebbiolo for generations, a wine is created that shows all the elegance of this royal grape variety without the heaviness and complexity of its big Barolo brothers. Here, on the characteristic marl-clay soils of the Langhe, the Nebbiolo vines benefit from an ideal south-south-west exposure at an altitude of 350 metres. Matteo's proven philosophy – to let the terroir speak for itself without overpowering it with excessive technology – is also evident in this Nebbiolo: gentle vinification in stainless steel tanks preserves the freshness and elegance typical of the variety, while a short refinement in Slavonian oak barrels gives the wine a subtle structure without masking its natural finesse.

In the 1820s, wine merchants knew three Bardolino crus that existed in Switzerland's grand hotels alongside Burgundy and Beaujolais. In 1968, they were lost in the DOC regulations. They have been back since 2021 – and Montebaldo, the northernmost and highest subzone on the foothills of Monte Baldo, is perhaps the most exciting. Guerrieri Rizzardi's response to this rediscovery: 95 per cent Corvina – the highest percentage the winery has ever bottled –supplemented by a touch of Rondinella, vinified completely without wood. This is not a concession to light summer enjoyment. It is a statement about transparency: the grape speaks exclusively here, and the moraine soil of Cavaion gives it a resonance chamber.

The Bertolino family has been producing this Nebbiolo for over 50 years – and old adverts from the early years show what has never changed: deep ruby red, delicate violet perfume, a wine that was intended from the outset as a storage wine. Not as a substitute for Barolo, but as an independent statement about a grape variety that appears in many guises in Piedmont. The grapes come from Castellinaldo in the Roero – the area west of the Tanaro, which is known for its particularly elegant Nebbioli. Here, on sandier, calcareous soils, the Nebbiolo develops a finesse and accessibility that distinguishes it from the more structured Barolo style. Hand-picked in crates, last week of October. Maceration in steel at a controlled temperature. Then 18 months in 25-hectolitre oak barrels, followed by further bottle ageing before release.

The name is a landscape. "Pearl of the forest" – those ancient strips of scrubland between the vineyards and the Tyrrhenian Sea, from whose herbs, pines and wild flowers the wind carries a daily bath of flavour to the vines. Tua Rita has been vinifying Vermentino since 1992 – the estate's very first vintage. Not an experiment, not a trend, but a strong commitment. 100% Vermentino from the mineral-rich soils of the Colline Metallifere. The vines grow without pruning – they are allowed to extend their shoots as a natural umbrella over the grapes, protecting the clusters from heat stress and preserving the flavour. Fermentation and ageing in steel: no wood to come between the grape variety and the terroir. "The trick is maintaining the acidity," says Stefano Frascolla.

One of southern Italy’s most distinctive white wines comes from the high-altitude vineyards around Tufo – in the Cutizzi Riserva version, the Greco di Tufo reveals itself as particularly elegant and brooding. The mineral-rich volcanic soils, the cool nights at an altitude of 500 to 600 metres above sea level and the selective harvest shape the distinctive profile of this exceptional white wine. In the glass, it is a pale golden-yellow with silvery highlights. The bouquet reveals a dense yet focused array of aromas: ripe yellow citrus, nectarine, green fennel and a hint of wet chalk. On the palate, it is crisp and well-structured, with a salty freshness and a creamy texture imparted by ageing on the fine lees. The finish features a subtle almond note and a delicate, almost austere mineral edge.

Barbara Widmer's Chianti Classico emphasises clarity and origin: 100% Sangiovese from plots in Castellina and Radda (230–400 metres), on limestone and clay soils with south to south-west exposure. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, followed by around twelve months in stainless steel and cement on the fine lees – deliberately without the use of wood to allow the grape variety to speak purely and precisely. Bright ruby red in colour with a cherry-red core. Juicy cherry, redcurrant and violet on the nose, with a hint of herbs and wet stone. Straightforward and animating on the palate: fresh, finely chiselled acidity, taut, young tannins and a salty, minerally finish that gives length. A classic, straightforward Chianti Classico with elegant tension, clear fruit, cool contours and a very nice drinking flow. SUPERIORE.DE

Elisabetta Geppetti has dedicated this rosato to a woman who came before her: Rosa Mati – the first in the family to believe in the Maremma when others were still looking the other way. A woman who invested when this wild coastal landscape in south-west Tuscany was not yet a wine region in the modern sense. This belief was the beginning of everything that Le Pupille is today. And the wine that bears her name is Elisabetta Geppetti's most personal work – unchanged in its conviction since the first vintage in 2002: 100 per cent Syrah, as a rosé. This is not an obvious choice. Syrah is known in Maremma primarily as a powerful red wine. To press it as a rosé – transparent, fresh, elegant – requires precision.

Pèppoli is an entertaining, very relaxed red wine with a firm fan base. A sparkling, intense ruby colour with a slight garnet hue. The Pèppoli expresses its strong personality through its bouquet of ripe fruit with light mineral accents. The juicy flavour with lively tannins spreads gently yet powerfully across the palate and lingers for a long time. Very easy to drink, very classic and, incidentally, excellent value! SUPERIORE.DE

Capalbio – this is the southernmost end of the Tuscan coast, where the Maremma is wilder and more unspoilt than anywhere else, with views of Monte Argentario and the Burano lagoon. This is where Monteverro is located: a biodynamically farmed estate that Georg and Barbara Weber awoke from its slumber around two decades ago. Vermentino is the white soul of this place – fresh, fruity, light-hearted, with the fine minerality of clay and limestone soil. 100% Vermentino, harvested by hand from 5,555 vines per hectare with a north-south orientation. Whole-cluster pressing, no malolactic fermentation – because this is about freshness, not fullness. Six months on the fine lees in stainless steel tanks. The result is exactly what Monteverro formulates as its goal: "An expression of Italy's joie de vivre."

Bell'Assai is a fragrant, elegant Frappato from the chalky and sandy soils around Vittoria in south-east Sicily. The grape variety shows itself here in its most delicate form – with a delicate structure, fine fruit and excellent freshness. A clear ruby red colour with a purple hue in the glass. Bell'Assai is aromatic and delicate on the nose: red cherries, raspberries, floral hints of rose and violets and a hint of white spices. Juicy and silky on the palate with a moderate structure, lively acidity and elegant, almost dancing freshness. The tannins are discreet, the finish is fruit-orientated and subtly spicy. A delicate, charming red wine that is ideal with antipasti, grilled fish or light pasta dishes – and is also a real pleasure when slightly chilled. A frappato full of style and joie de vivre. SUPERIORE.DE

In the western heart of Chianti Classico, between Florence and Siena, lie the four historic vineyards of Castello di Monsanto: Il Poggio, Scanni, Il Mulino and Il Salcio. On 72 hectares between 280 and 320 metres above sea level, surrounded by a Mediterranean biotope of cypresses, junipers, brooms and strawberry trees, predominantly Sangiovese vines thrive on the characteristic Galestro soils – the slate-like rock that gives the wines depth and powerful characteristics. The Bianchi family has consistently favoured the quality of Sangiovese for over 60 years and created the first Chianti Classico cru in 1962 with Il Poggio. The Annata is made from a selection of grapes from the younger vineyards, which are particularly suitable for ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels. 90% Sangiovese is complemented by 10% Canaiolo and Colorino – a classic blend that combines freshness and accessibility with the characteristic depth of the Monsanto terroir.

In the hills between Macerata and Ancona, Bisci's red wines are made from the modest 1.5 hectares of Sangiovese and Merlot that have complemented the portfolio of the legendary Verdicchio specialists since the very beginning. The Villa Castiglioni 2019 combines 80% Sangiovese with 20% Merlot in a sophisticated cuvée that expresses the warm terroir of the Marche region. After manual harvesting, the wine is macerated for 15 days in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with daily pumping over, followed by twelve months of ageing partly in oak barrels and partly in steel.

Felsina's single-varietal Sangiovese wines have been produced on the south-eastern edge of the Chianti Classico since 1967. The vineyards face south-west on ventilated slopes between 320 and 420 metres above sea level on geologically heterogeneous soils of quartz-rich sandstone, calcareous Alberese and clay. After hand-picking in the first three weeks of October, temperature-controlled fermentation takes place between 28-30°C with intensive maceration in stainless steel tanks for 12-15 days. Ageing lasts twelve months, mainly in traditional Slavonian oak barrels of medium size, supplemented by a small proportion of used barriques.

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

Anyone familiar with the nine vineyard reserves of the Produttori del Barbaresco will know that this co-operative's entry is no concession. Langhe Nebbiolo is made from young vines that are spread across the entire appellation – the same soils, the same families, the same care. What sets it apart from its big brothers is not intention, but time. After two years of prolonged drought, the 2024 vintage began with a refreshingly wet winter that replenished the water reserves in the soil. Spring came early and mild; bud break began around 20 March. What followed was an even, well-tempered growing season – ideal for a Nebbiolo that can be drunk earlier but still has something to say. Vinification in concrete vats at 28 degrees, 20 days of maceration with pumping over twice a day, followed by five months in large oak barrels – this is not a compromise, but a concept.