Decanter

XVII – the Roman seventeen honours the century in which the Rizzardi family acquired its first vineyards in Negrar in 1678. Since then, the house has cultivated the best vineyards in the Classico zone – pojega, Calcarole, Rovereti – on calcareous clay soils in the hills above the plain. Corvina and Corvinone form the backbone of this cuvée, with Rondinella, Merlot and Croatina providing the accents. Bright purple red in the glass. Shadow cherry and black pepper on the nose, with a hint of cherry blossom and Mediterranean herbs. Round and juicy on the palate, with an invigorating freshness and an earthy, herbal finish. Proof that Valpolicella has depth and character even without Appassimento – and an ideal introduction to the world of Guerrieri Rizzardi. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1900, Cleto Chiarli travelled to Paris. In his luggage: bottles of his Lambrusco, fermented using the traditional method – fermentation in the bottle, no intervention, no dosage. The jury at the World Exhibition awarded him the "Mention Honorable". A century later, *Wine Spectator* selected the Fondatore for its Top 100 Wines of the World. The secret lies in the method. Whilst the market favours the Charmat method, Chiarli 1860 continues to use the *Metodo Ancestrale* for the Fondatore, with the second fermentation taking place in the bottle. This is followed by six months' ageing on the lees. No dosage. The result is a Lambrusco whose vintages can be traced back – and which reveals what this wine tasted like long before anyone had the idea of making it sweet.

Full-bodied yet refreshing – this is how Peter Zemmers’ Chardonnay from the finest vineyards around Kurtinig in South Tyrol’s Unterland region presents itself. The vines, grafted onto low-growth rootstocks and trained using the Guyot system, benefit from their favourable location in the valley floor, ideal sunlight and good air circulation around the grapes. The hand-picked grapes are left to macerate on their skins for a few hours in a cool place before pressing – a step that transfers the fruity aromas from the skins into the must and intensifies the bouquet. Following gentle pressing and natural sedimentation, fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature of 19 °C in stainless steel tanks.

Elisabetta Geppetti is more than just a winemaker – she is the "Signora del Morellino", the energetic woman who took over the reins of the family winery at the age of just 20 and helped the Maremma region to achieve international renown. When she pressed the first Morellino in 1985, she laid the foundations for a success story that continues to this day. This wine is the quantitative and qualitative calling card of Le Pupille – a constant, authentic expression of the terroir between Pereta and Magliano in Tuscany. The Morellino combines Sangiovese (90%) with Alicante and the autochthonous Ciliegiolo (5% each) from vineyards exposed to the south-west at an altitude of 50 to 250 metres. The vines, some of which are over 40 years old, are rooted in skeleton-rich, clayey and ferrous soils, cooled by sea breezes and strengthened by pronounced day-night temperature differences. After the harvest at the end of September, the must ferments on the skins for 15 days and matures for eight months, mainly in stainless steel tanks with a small proportion in used barriques.

Barbera with origin and attitude: La Villa has been Olim Bauda's favourite wine for decades – not because it is particularly loud, but because it seems so natural. No barrique, no spectacle, but plenty of character. The secret lies in the balance: fruit and freshness, elegance and energy – everything is there, nothing imposes itself. Bright ruby in the glass with a youthful violet colour. The bouquet plays on the fresh side: sour cherry, raspberry, dried herbs, a hint of violet and a delicate mineral note. On the palate, the typical tension of Asti-Barbera – juicy, clearly contoured, with supple tannins and fine length. A wonderfully authentic wine that breathes the soul of Piedmont – spontaneous, lively, unaffected. If you want to understand the essence of this grape variety, this is the perfect wine for every day. SUPERIORE.DE

Lambrusco has an image problem. Not because it's bad – but because for decades the wrong version of it has been making the rounds: sweet, run-of-the-mill, served free with pizza. However, anyone who knows that Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC is one of Italy's most fascinating red wine appellations – aromatic, light-footed, with an acidity that puts Bordeaux to shame – will open this bottle with entirely different expectations. 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara from the Vigneto Sozzigalli, 100 hectares of the estate's own vineyards, carefully selected. Short maceration, slow "prise de mousse" in a closed fermentation tank using the Charmat method. No compromises where it doesn't matter.

The Riserva version of the famous "Tralcetto" is a modern expression of Montepulciano from Abruzzo – powerful and dense, yet always distinct in style. The 2021 vintage was selectively harvested by hand and, following traditional maceration, aged for nine months in large wooden casks, which lends the wine structure and depth.

In his book "Native Wine Grapes of Italy", Italy expert and wine critic Ian D'Agata writes about the grape variety: "Verdicchio is arguably Italy's greatest indigenous white grape variety. This statement may come as a surprise to those who have so far only tasted bland or watery Verdicchio wines, which have sometimes even been bottled in incredible, amphora-shaped bottles."

In the vineyards between La Morra and Verduno, where Matteo Ascheri has been capturing the essence of Nebbiolo for generations, a wine is created that shows all the elegance of this royal grape variety without the heaviness and complexity of its big Barolo brothers. Here, on the characteristic marl-clay soils of the Langhe, the Nebbiolo vines benefit from an ideal south-south-west exposure at an altitude of 350 metres. Matteo's proven philosophy – to let the terroir speak for itself without overpowering it with excessive technology – is also evident in this Nebbiolo: gentle vinification in stainless steel tanks preserves the freshness and elegance typical of the variety, while a short refinement in Slavonian oak barrels gives the wine a subtle structure without masking its natural finesse.

A wine like an ecosystem: Misto Mare is no ordinary white wine, but a polyphonic ode to nature from the Alois Lageder winery. The blend combines grapes from over 14 white and red grape varieties grown in organically or biodynamically managed vineyards that are currently in the process of transitioning to organic certification. The grapes come from a wide range of altitudes across South Tyrol – a reflection of the region's diversity, captured in a single wine. The name draws on the region's geological past: around 200 million years ago, South Tyrol was covered by a primeval sea. Today, vines grow on what was once the seabed, their complexity evoking the former depths and the intricate balance of marine ecosystems.

Since the 16th century, the Allegrini family has been one of the driving forces behind Valpolicella. Then, at some point, the desire arose to produce a white wine from Lake Garda. The Tenuta Oasi Mantellina in Pozzolengo – on the southern shore of Lake Garda, in the province of Brescia – became their answer. The name reflects what this patch of land is: a natural oasis, rich in biodiversity, swept by the breezes of Lake Garda, set on clay-rich moraine soils that give the Turbiana its characteristic minerality. 96% Turbiana (Trebbiano di Lugana), 4% Cortese, hand-harvested in September, gentle pressing, stainless steel, four months on the fine lees, two months in bottle.

In the 1820s, wine merchants knew three Bardolino crus that existed in Switzerland's grand hotels alongside Burgundy and Beaujolais. In 1968, they were lost in the DOC regulations. They have been back since 2021 – and Montebaldo, the northernmost and highest subzone on the foothills of Monte Baldo, is perhaps the most exciting. Guerrieri Rizzardi's response to this rediscovery: 95 per cent Corvina – the highest percentage the winery has ever bottled –supplemented by a touch of Rondinella, vinified completely without wood. This is not a concession to light summer enjoyment. It is a statement about transparency: the grape speaks exclusively here, and the moraine soil of Cavaion gives it a resonance chamber.

In the 16th century, Ludovico Ariosto had the knights of the House of Mongrana ride through fantastical landscapes in Orlando Furioso – adventurous, freedom-loving, always ready to set off. The hippogriff, the winged hybrid creature that carries one beyond all boundaries, is the symbol of this epic. Querciabella has featured both on the label of its Maremma project: the name, the creature, the spirit. Since 1997, Querciabella has been cultivating vineyards in Banditella near Alberese – right on the Tuscan coast, where sea breezes, salty air and sandy soils shape the Mediterranean character of the wine. 100% Vermentino, 20,000 bottles, organically farmed. Fermentation in small concrete and steel tanks, carried out gently and precisely. The 2025 vintage saw a balanced spring and cool nights, which slowed ripening, preserved acidity and concentrated the aromas.

The Bertolino family has been producing this Nebbiolo for over 50 years – and old adverts from the early years show what has never changed: deep ruby red, delicate violet perfume, a wine that was intended from the outset as a storage wine. Not as a substitute for Barolo, but as an independent statement about a grape variety that appears in many guises in Piedmont. The grapes come from Castellinaldo in the Roero – the area west of the Tanaro, which is known for its particularly elegant Nebbioli. Here, on sandier, calcareous soils, the Nebbiolo develops a finesse and accessibility that distinguishes it from the more structured Barolo style. Hand-picked in crates, last week of October. Maceration in steel at a controlled temperature. Then 18 months in 25-hectolitre oak barrels, followed by further bottle ageing before release.

The grapes for this Ripasso come from the Marne Bianche vineyard at Tenuta Maternigo – a vineyard that the Tedeschi family has been cultivating for generations. Corvina and Corvinone (35% each), Rondinella (20 per cent) and 10 per cent indigenous varieties such as Rossignola, Oseleta, Negrara and Dindarella grow here on moraine loam and limestone at a density of 5,500 vines per hectare. Vinification follows the classic Ripasso method: after 15 days’ maceration at 28°C, the young Valpolicella undergoes secondary fermentation on the pomace of Amarone and Recioto – for eight to ten days at a cool 18°C. This second fermentation lends the wine body and depth without stifling its freshness. It is then aged for 15 months in Slavonian oak and a further six months in the bottle.

A Chianti Classico born of the fusion of centuries-old tradition and modern winemaking techniques: Organically farmed since the 1980s, the vineyards of Monti-in-Chianti and Vitignano (situated slightly below) – with their clay-loam and limestone soils – strive for character and balance. The vines (90% Sangiovese, complemented by a little Colorino, Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo) are planted at altitudes of between 250 m and 330 m above sea level.

The ‘120’ in the name refers to the number of days: exactly 120 days of ageing on the fine lees following the second fermentation in the autoclave. In the Charmat method, this is unusual – a level of patience more commonly associated with the Metodo Classico, but which has been deliberately applied to Prosecco here. The name La Rivetta refers to Villa Sandi’s most famous location: its own vineyard in Cartizze, the Grand Cru of Valdobbiadene. The 120 does not come from Cartizze – but from the surrounding hills of San Pietro di Barbozza, on morainic soils with calcareous sandstone and clay. 100% Glera, hand-harvested, maximum yield 120 Doppelzentner per hectare. Gentle whole-bunch pressing, controlled fermentation at 15–16 °C – followed by the aforementioned 120 days.

The name evokes a landscape. "Pearl of the Forest" – those ancient strips of macchia between the vineyards and the Tyrrhenian Sea, from whose herbs, pine trees and wildflowers the wind carries a daily bath of aromas into the vines. Tua Rita has been producing Vermentino since 1992 – the estate's very first vintage. Not an experiment, not a trend, but a firm commitment. 100% Vermentino from the mineral-rich soils of the Colline Metallifere. The vines are grown without topping – their shoots are allowed to spread out as a natural canopy over the grapes, protecting the bunches from heat stress and preserving the aromas. Fermentation and ageing take place in stainless steel: no wood to interfere between the grape variety and the terroir. "The trick is maintaining the acidity," says Stefano Frascolla.

Some wines are historical records. The 26° Primo is both: a wine and a historical record in one. The name commemorates the 26th year of the founding of Azienda Agricola Andreola: 2009, when Nazzareno Pola handed the estate over to his son Stefano and, at the same time, the appellation achieved DOCG status. A wine that serves as a baton passed between generations, between an ancient winemaking tradition and its modern aspirations. The grapes come from the estate's oldest core holding: around four hectares of steep slopes in Col San Martino, the village in the southernmost part of the hills between Vidor and Vittorio Veneto, where Andreola has had its roots since its foundation. The vineyards lie at altitudes of 300 to 500 metres, partly on limestone conglomerate soils and partly on calcareous marl, interspersed with centuries-old Glera vines and small proportions of indigenous varieties such as Bianchetta, Perera and Verdiso. The slopes are so steep that all work must be carried out by hand.

One of southern Italy’s most distinctive white wines comes from the high-altitude vineyards around Tufo – in the Cutizzi Riserva version, the Greco di Tufo reveals itself as particularly elegant and brooding. The mineral-rich volcanic soils, the cool nights at an altitude of 500 to 600 metres above sea level and the selective harvest shape the distinctive profile of this exceptional white wine. In the glass, it is a pale golden-yellow with silvery highlights. The bouquet reveals a dense yet focused array of aromas: ripe yellow citrus, nectarine, green fennel and a hint of wet chalk. On the palate, it is crisp and well-structured, with a salty freshness and a creamy texture imparted by ageing on the fine lees. The finish features a subtle almond note and a delicate, almost austere mineral edge.

Refrontolo lies on the eastern edge of the Denominazione – quieter, warmer, and a shade cooler than the steep slopes of the core zone. The Col del Forno vineyard is a natural amphitheatre covering around four hectares at an altitude of 250 metres, nestled between woods and terraced slopes. Andreola acquired the plot in 2016 – and from the very start, the wine has been one of the most compelling in the entire Rive range. What distinguishes Refrontolo from Col San Martino is not quality, but character. The clay-marl soils, featuring karst formations dating from before the last Ice Age, reliably retain moisture – ensuring a stable water supply for the vines even in dry years. Temperatures are slightly higher than in the western part of the appellation, meaning ripening begins earlier. The result is not wines of intense floral character, but Glera with a rich, ripe fruitiness: hawthorn, wisteria, apple, peach and yellow citrus fruits – a warmer, more complex spectrum of aromas.