Decanter

XVII – the Roman seventeen honours the century in which the Rizzardi family acquired its first vineyards in Negrar in 1678. Since then, the house has cultivated the best vineyards in the Classico zone – pojega, Calcarole, Rovereti – on calcareous clay soils in the hills above the plain. Corvina and Corvinone form the backbone of this cuvée, with Rondinella, Merlot and Croatina providing the accents. Bright purple red in the glass. Shadow cherry and black pepper on the nose, with a hint of cherry blossom and Mediterranean herbs. Round and juicy on the palate, with an invigorating freshness and an earthy, herbal finish. Proof that Valpolicella has depth and character even without Appassimento – and an ideal introduction to the world of Guerrieri Rizzardi. SUPERIORE.DE

Cleto Chiarli travelled to Paris in 1900. In his luggage: bottles of his Lambrusco, fermented using the old method – fermentation in the bottle, no intervention, no dosage. The jury of the World Exhibition awarded him the "Mention Honourable". A century later, the Wine Spectator voted Fondatore one of the top 100 wines in the world. The secret is the process. While the market favours Charmat, Chiarli 1860 sticks to the Metodo Ancestrale for del Fondatore, with the second fermentation taking place in the bottle. This is followed by six months of maturation on the lees. No dosage. The result is a Lambrusco that can be traced back through the vintages – and which shows what this wine sounded like long before anyone had the idea of making it sweet.

Elisabetta Geppetti is more than just a winemaker – she is the "Signora del Morellino", the energetic woman who took over the reins of the family winery at the age of just 20 and helped the Maremma region to achieve international renown. When she pressed the first Morellino in 1985, she laid the foundations for a success story that continues to this day. This wine is the quantitative and qualitative calling card of Le Pupille – a constant, authentic expression of the terroir between Pereta and Magliano in Tuscany. The Morellino combines Sangiovese (90%) with Alicante and the autochthonous Ciliegiolo (5% each) from vineyards exposed to the south-west at an altitude of 50 to 250 metres. The vines, some of which are over 40 years old, are rooted in skeleton-rich, clayey and ferrous soils, cooled by sea breezes and strengthened by pronounced day-night temperature differences. After the harvest at the end of September, the must ferments on the skins for 15 days and matures for eight months, mainly in stainless steel tanks with a small proportion in used barriques.

Straw-yellow Gavi di Gavi with a lively floral fragrance and a hint of exotic fruits, jasmine, lemon and golden apples. Delicate, self-contained, very harmonious flavour that finishes long and mineral with a fine pepper and pastry note. SUPERIORE.DE

Italy connoisseur and wine critic Ian D'Agata writes about the grape variety in his book "Native Wine Grapes of Italy": "Verdicchio is arguably Italy's greatest indigenous white grape variety. This statement may come as a surprise to those who have only tasted neutral or watery Verdicchio wines, sometimes even bottled in incredible amphora-shaped bottles."

Radda in Chianti is one of the coolest municipalities in the appellation. Here, at an altitude of 400 metres, where dense forests surround the vineyards and stone-walled country lanes run through the hills, Sangiovese thrives in ideal conditions. The strong day-night temperature fluctuations give the grapes the freshness and aromatic clarity that make Radda wines unmistakable. Castello di Radda has been cultivating its vineyards in a fully certified organic way since 2020, with each parcel vinified separately and only brought together at the time of blending. The cuvée of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo is destemmed after manual harvesting and fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Maceration on the skins lasts two to three weeks – this is made possible by the perfect physiological ripeness of the grapes. Malolactic fermentation takes place in both steel and wood before the wine matures partly in 500-litre Liters and partly in 20-hectolitre French and Slavonian oak barrels. Several months of bottle ageing round off the harmonious development.

The name is a landscape. "Pearl of the forest" – those ancient strips of scrubland between the vineyards and the Tyrrhenian Sea, from whose herbs, pines and wild flowers the wind carries a daily bath of flavour to the vines. Tua Rita has been vinifying Vermentino since 1992 – the estate's very first vintage. Not an experiment, not a trend, but a strong commitment. 100% Vermentino from the mineral-rich soils of the Colline Metallifere. The vines grow without pruning – they are allowed to extend their shoots as a natural umbrella over the grapes, protecting the clusters from heat stress and preserving the flavour. Fermentation and ageing in steel: no wood to come between the grape variety and the terroir. "The trick is maintaining the acidity," says Stefano Frascolla.

Barbara Widmer's Chianti Classico emphasises clarity and origin: 100% Sangiovese from plots in Castellina and Radda (230–400 metres), on limestone and clay soils with south to south-west exposure. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, followed by around twelve months in stainless steel and cement on the fine lees – deliberately without the use of wood to allow the grape variety to speak purely and precisely. Bright ruby red in colour with a cherry-red core. Juicy cherry, redcurrant and violet on the nose, with a hint of herbs and wet stone. Straightforward and animating on the palate: fresh, finely chiselled acidity, taut, young tannins and a salty, minerally finish that gives length. A classic, straightforward Chianti Classico with elegant tension, clear fruit, cool contours and a very nice drinking flow. SUPERIORE.DE

Elisabetta Geppetti has dedicated this rosato to a woman who came before her: Rosa Mati – the first in the family to believe in the Maremma when others were still looking the other way. A woman who invested when this wild coastal landscape in south-west Tuscany was not yet a wine region in the modern sense. This belief was the beginning of everything that Le Pupille is today. And the wine that bears her name is Elisabetta Geppetti's most personal work – unchanged in its conviction since the first vintage in 2002: 100 per cent Syrah, as a rosé. This is not an obvious choice. Syrah is known in Maremma primarily as a powerful red wine. To press it as a rosé – transparent, fresh, elegant – requires precision.

Pèppoli is an entertaining, very relaxed red wine with a firm fan base. A sparkling, intense ruby colour with a slight garnet hue. The Pèppoli expresses its strong personality through its bouquet of ripe fruit with light mineral accents. The juicy flavour with lively tannins spreads gently yet powerfully across the palate and lingers for a long time. Very easy to drink, very classic and, incidentally, excellent value! SUPERIORE.DE

In the western heart of Chianti Classico, between Florence and Siena, lie the four historic vineyards of Castello di Monsanto: Il Poggio, Scanni, Il Mulino and Il Salcio. On 72 hectares between 280 and 320 metres above sea level, surrounded by a Mediterranean biotope of cypresses, junipers, brooms and strawberry trees, predominantly Sangiovese vines thrive on the characteristic Galestro soils – the slate-like rock that gives the wines depth and powerful characteristics. The Bianchi family has consistently favoured the quality of Sangiovese for over 60 years and created the first Chianti Classico cru in 1962 with Il Poggio. The Annata is made from a selection of grapes from the younger vineyards, which are particularly suitable for ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels. 90% Sangiovese is complemented by 10% Canaiolo and Colorino – a classic blend that combines freshness and accessibility with the characteristic depth of the Monsanto terroir.

In the hills between Macerata and Ancona, Bisci's red wines are made from the modest 1.5 hectares of Sangiovese and Merlot that have complemented the portfolio of the legendary Verdicchio specialists since the very beginning. The Villa Castiglioni 2019 combines 80% Sangiovese with 20% Merlot in a sophisticated cuvée that expresses the warm terroir of the Marche region. After manual harvesting, the wine is macerated for 15 days in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with daily pumping over, followed by twelve months of ageing partly in oak barrels and partly in steel.

With the Brolettino, Ca' dei Frati shows the powerful, mature side of Lugana. The Turbiana grapes come from older vines, whose deep roots give the fruit particular concentration. After fermentation, the wine matures for several months in barriques, which gives it additional structure and depth. Brilliant straw yellow colour with golden reflections in the glass. Ripe yellow fruit, pineapple, apricot and candied lemon on the nose, with fine vanilla and almond notes. Creamy and full-bodied on the palate, with an elegant woody flavour, fine minerality and harmoniously integrated acidity. The finish is long, smooth and delicately enveloping. A Lugana with fullness and elegance, which presents itself excellently both young and after a few years of ageing in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

Felsina's single-varietal Sangiovese wines have been produced on the south-eastern edge of the Chianti Classico since 1967. The vineyards face south-west on ventilated slopes between 320 and 420 metres above sea level on geologically heterogeneous soils of quartz-rich sandstone, calcareous Alberese and clay. After hand-picking in the first three weeks of October, temperature-controlled fermentation takes place between 28-30°C with intensive maceration in stainless steel tanks for 12-15 days. Ageing lasts twelve months, mainly in traditional Slavonian oak barrels of medium size, supplemented by a small proportion of used barriques.

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

Sparkling light yellow colour with green reflections. Clear, very broad aroma of apple, citrus, meadow herbs and pear fruit, rich on the palate and with the powerful, taut freshness and invigorating fruit acidity typical of the high altitudes of the Venosta Valley. SUPERIORE.DE

Montegrilli is a declaration of love to the Langhe terroir and a deliberately chosen distance from the house's Barolo style: no woody notes, instead the focus is on pure Nebbiolo purity. The grapes come from a vineyard of just 1.4 hectares in the Ravera zone near Novello. They ripen on sandy, calcareous soil under the sun of the southern slopes, in a microcosm that ensures immediate, elegant freshness. After manual harvesting, fermentation takes place with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, followed by eight months of ageing in steel.

Swiss precision meets Tuscan passion: Monika and Thomas Bär-Bettschart have been realising their dream at the Antico Podere Gagliole in Castellina in Chianti since 1990. Rubiolo is the certified organic homage to over three decades of winegrowing in one of the most beautiful terroirs in Tuscany. Made from pure Sangiovese grapes from both the historic terraces around Castellina and the famous Conca d'Oro in Panzano, this wine epitomises the synthesis of two exceptional vineyards.

The vineyards in Gaiole and Greve form the core of the blend, with a hint of fruit from Radda. On the nose, floral aromas and red fruits in the super-classic, medium-bodied style that is so typical of the Querciabella style today. Rose petals, lavender, mint and sweet raspberry fruit take centre stage. Brilliant medium ruby red colour. Enormous density on the palate, firm fruit body, with great youthful, fresh temperament, paired with a certain finesse and elegance. Finishes long with notes of juicy red berries, great! SUPERIORE.DE