Gravner

Those who believe that natural wines cannot compete with other quality wines will be taught better by winemaker Francesco Gravner, known as Joško. A native of Friuli, he now works according to the classic method of natural wine production, for which he imports the traditional amphorae, reminiscent of Roman-Greek antiquity, directly from Georgia. The Gravner name is closely associated with the rolling hills of the Colli Goriziani in Friuli and is known throughout the wine world thanks to the winemaking method, which is so atypical in Italy.

Francesco's 2,400-liter clay amphorae are stuck up to their necks in the floor of his winery and represent a method of wine production that is over 5,000 years old. The temperature in these containers is regulated naturally, without human intervention, and fermentation takes place exclusively with indigenous yeasts, without any chemical substances. Already at the first tasting, we quickly agreed that these white wines have nothing in common with the interchangeable wines of the high-tech wine industry.

But before Joško decided to realize his visionary ideas and produce natural wines, he first had all the steel tanks removed from his cellar and replaced with small wooden barrels. Then, after a detour via barrqiue aging, Gravner finally discovered the clay amphora method in 2001. Today he masters this craft with absolute perfection, which is expressed in his complex wines.

After 54 years of harvesting, only native varieties such as the white Ribolla Gialla are grown, "because it is precisely this grape variety that can best reflect my territory," the 69-year-old winemaker tells us in conversation. His 15 hectares of vines are now cultivated in different parts of the municipality of Oslavia, at an altitude of 150 to 270 meters, according to biodynamic principles - that is, depending on the solar and lunar calendars.

After harvesting, the fully ripe Ribolla grapes, affected by noble rot, undergo a maceration on the skins for days, resulting in an impressive texture and creating an exceptionally aromatic taste sensation. They then thrive for twelve months in amphorae and another six years in large Slavonian oak barrels.

These pithy, honey-scented wines have more tannins and tannins than traditional ones, so they are marked by a strong oxidative character. They represent not only the beautiful Friuli region, but also Italy's most sought-after natural wine maker. His talent proves that it does not require the latest technology and the largest vineyards to conquer the international wine world. SUPERIORE.DE