Montedolce | Giovanni Rosso

Anyone starting out anew on Mount Etna doesn't start small. In 2016, Davide Rosso acquired fourteen hectares in Solicchiata, at the foot of the extinct Montedolce crater on the north-eastern slope of the volcano – at an altitude of 730 to 750 metres, in a microclimate that immediately brought to mind the Langhe precision he grew up with: cool nights, wide temperature variations, mineral-rich lava sand soils, and constant ventilation. "Contrade Nuove" – the new vineyards – refers to the estate's younger Carricante vines, trained using the Alberello method and facing north-north-east. They offer a different character to the old vines of the main cuvée: livelier, more direct, with a freshness and approachability that make the Montedolce terroir immediately apparent. 100% Carricante. Spontaneous fermentation at low temperatures in stainless steel, lasting 15 to 20 days. This is followed by five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage – no wood, no intervention, just the volcano with its soil and climate.

What Carricante is to white wines, Nerello Mascalese is to reds on Mount Etna: a grape variety shaped more distinctly by this terroir than by any other in the world. Thin-skinned, light in colour, low in tannins – fragile at first glance. At second glance: precise to the very core. The younger Nerello Mascalese vines of Contrada Montedolce form the basis of the Contrade Nuove – direct, approachable, with the freshness that the north-facing slope climate at 730 to 750 metres almost inevitably produces. The warm summer of 2022 gave the wine a little more texture and dark fruit than usual – the timely autumn rain preserved its freshness. Davide Rosso vinifies using a modular approach that is unusual by Etna standards: amphorae for oxygen contact, conical oak barrels and stainless steel. This is Giovanni's deliberate strategy to counteract the Nerello's tendency towards reduction without sacrificing fruit and minerality.

Davide Rosso had long since successfully written the Serralunga chapter when he rode up Etna for the first time in 2014. He was not looking for a second mainstay. He was looking for a terroir that would challenge him – as the limestone marl of Serralunga had once challenged him. He found it on the northern slope of the volcano, in the Solicchiata fraction, and bought a 14-hectare estate in Contrada Montedolce in 2016. An old palmento, lava soil, 750 metres above sea level. But he didn't stop there. In 2023, he acquired two more hectares in Contrada Pietra Marina – one of the best white vineyards in the entire Etna region, historically famous for the quality of its Carricante, directly influenced by the nearby Alcantara River. The soils here are a unique mixture: volcanic sand and ash, enriched by fluvial silt and sandstone, shaped by thousands of years of tectonic and hydraulic forces. No other piece of land on Etna offers this specific dual character – volcanic energy and mineral river coolness in one vineyard.

At Giovanni Rosso, Ester Canale Rosso is more than just the name on a bottle: it accompanies the estate's most prestigious wines, from Barolo Vignarionda to Langhe Nebbiolo, as a tribute to the family's history. Since the debut vintage of 2024, the name has also been given to a white wine from far beyond the Piedmontese hills – the Etna Bianco DOC from Contrada Pietra Marina, a plot acquired in 2023 on the northern slope of the volcano, not far from the Alcantara, the second vintage of which is now available in 2025. The Contrada has been regarded for decades as one of the volcano's finest white wine sites, long before Giovanni Rosso established himself here.