Roagna

You know that there are no side issues at Roagna. When Luca Roagna, the fifth generation of this legendary Barbaresco dynasty, makes Dolcetto, it is not as a stopgap between the great Nebbiolo, but as a commitment to substance. The grapes come from 45-year-old vines in the prestigious Pajé and Asili vineyards, where the iconic Barbaresco otherwise matures. Pajé, with its calcareous marl soils and high proportion of active limestone, and Asili, with its east-facing clay-limestone soils and distinctive sand content – these are no ordinary Dolcetto terroirs. The vinification follows the Roagna philosophy: ten days of fermentation in large wooden barrels with spontaneous yeasts, followed by 90 to 100 days of maceration on the skins – a maceration period that even many Barolo wines do not see. After around ten months of ageing in wooden and cement barrels, the wine is bottled unfiltered.

In Piedmont, Barbera is the "worker's grape", the everyday glass with dinner, the uncomplicated companion. There is no such thing as "uncomplicated" at Roagna. The oldest vines date back to the 1930s and grow in the vineyards near the new winery in Castiglione Falletto – where Barolo usually grows. Luca Roagna treats this historic Barbera with the same reverence as his legendary Nebbiolo: 60 to 70 days of maceration with the skins submerged, followed by five years of ageing in neutral wood and cement barrels. Five years for a Barbera – nobody else really does that.

Luca Roagna likes to call it his worst wine. "It's made from all the leftovers," he says with a smile. But what Roagna considers "leftovers" would be considered a jewel elsewhere: The Langhe Rosso combines Nebbiolo from Barbaresco and Barolo – from Pajé, from Pira, from young vines that have not yet reached the magical age of 25 years. Vines that have only recently been planted in plots that were damaged by landslides in the 1990s. Luca says of himself: "I'm a thick skull." This entry-level wine is pure provocation. Technically speaking, it could be categorised as Barolo or Barbaresco – were it not a blend of both appellations. And here comes the amazing thing: Langhe Rosso undergoes exactly the same rigorous vinification and ageing programme as the great cru wines – 60 to 70 days of maceration with a submerged cap, followed by five years of ageing in neutral French oak and cement barrels. Five years for an "entry-level wine" – well, nobody else really does that.

The fact that one of Italy's most fascinating white wines is produced in the kingdom of Nebbiolo is one of the most beautiful paradoxes of Piedmont. Even more paradoxical: it grows on Pira, the legendary monopoly position that is actually reserved for monumental Barolo. Luca Roagna has planted Chardonnay here, not far from the new winery – a statement of freedom in the midst of tradition. 80% Chardonnay and 20% white Nebbiolo make up the cuvée in the 2023. The vinification follows old European principles: Pre-fermentative oxidation, then spontaneous fermentation in wooden vats with the vineyard's own yeasts for ten days. Matured for two years on the fine lees in neutral oak – without any racking.

If you stumble across a vineyard qua fate, then you might as well move on. Luca Roagna, however, did what he had to do. He inherited this old vineyard, which was completely planted with Timorasso, and since it immediately became clear to him to do something useful with it, and he did not know anything about this historic grape variety, he asked Walter Massa, who has been dedicated to this rare variety for decades, without further ado. And so, after a few years, he succeeded in making a wine from it that can more than compete with those of his teacher!

If you stumble across a vineyard qua fate, then you might as well move on. Luca Roagna, however, did what he had to do. He inherited this old vineyard, which was completely planted with Timorasso, and since it immediately became clear to him to do something useful with it, and he did not know anything about this historic grape variety, he asked Walter Massa, who has been dedicated to this rare variety for decades, without further ado. And so, after a few years, he succeeded in making a wine from it that can more than compete with those of his teacher!

If you stumble across a vineyard by fate, then you might as well keep going. Luca Roagna, however, did what he had to do. He inherited this old vineyard, which was planted entirely with Timorasso, and as he immediately realised that he wanted to do something useful with it and was unfamiliar with this historic grape variety, he quickly asked Walter Massa, who had been dedicated to this rare variety for decades. And so, after just a few years, he succeeded in making a wine from it that more than rivalled those of his teacher!

Some grape varieties die. Some survive in oblivion. And some awaken when the right family finds them. When the Roagnas acquired a plot of land in Montemarzino in 2014 – previously owned by a cousin –it was more than just a land purchase. It was a commitment to Timorasso, the historic white wine grape of the Colli Tortonesi, which was once considered lost. On Tortonese soils, at an altitude of 450 metres and facing east, the vines are now around 35 years old and have been rejuvenated through massal selection from historical genetic material. The grapes are harvested in small crates and macerated whole in the press for a few hours. The must oxidises in a controlled manner without the addition of sulphites before fermenting spontaneously with its own yeasts and maturing for two years on the fine lees in large barrels.

"Bright ruby red. Barolo Pira oscillates between fresh fruit and mild spices. Grown on 25-60 year old vines, the flawless cherry fruit is illuminated by ethereal top notes, toasted almonds and juniper berries alternate with rosemary, sour cherries and sloes. The nose continually defoliates as it aerates, shifting like a kaleidoscope. On the palate, the ripe tannins take over and lay the velvety foundation on which the fruit blows on parade to flow straightforwardly and transparently over the drinker's palate with oriental-like spice. Notes of sandalwood, juniper and incense are underpinned by fine cherry notes, the precisely crafted acidic nerve is perfectly enveloped by the tightly woven tannin, giving it freshness and drinkability. A wine of uncomplicated distinction with superb length. Please get the big glasses out of the cupboard. Timely caraffing is strongly recommended." Sebastian Bordthäuser (Sommelier und Wein–Journalist)

"Ruby red with bright reflections. The nose delights with a bouquet of floral notes: Mauve, hibiscus and hollyhocks are surrounded by fruity cherries and preserved raspberries and spicy aromas of black pepper, cedar and juniper berries. The red fruit is underpinned by dark aromatics and vegetal notes of redcurrant and blackberry leaves. Initially subtle on the palate until it brings out the iron fist in a velvet glove. The gentle attack calmly builds up immense pressure with great inner tension on the mid palate. The extract-sweet fruit of cherries and a fine core of sloes mingle with marzipan and noble bitter notes of the ripe tannins, which give it additional length. The exemplary use of wood sets the scene for exactly what characterises a Barbaresco: Concentration with simultaneous lightness and transparency." Sebastian Bordthäuser (Sommelier und Wein-Journalist)

Albesani leaves nothing to be desired, in expression and character it is simply grandiose. The fresh bouquet of flowers, chalk, tobacco and cherries continues on the palate, where a beguilingly silky tannin and aromatic intensity virtually rob the senses. A masterpiece from Luca Roagna! SUPERIORE.DE

With a few hours in the air, Albesani begins to reveal the inner sweetness and fragrance so typical of wines from this Neive vineyard. Sweet dried cherries, rose petals, kirsch, cinnamon, orange peel and sweet tobacco open up with a little coaxing. Albesani clearly has a lot to offer for those who can wait for the initially prominent tannins to soften. SUPERIORE.DE

Gallina comes from a steep, sandy vineyard, similar to the Asili site, but with less lime content, which gives it more roundness and fullness. Full bouquet of sweet tobacco, cedar, liquorice and dried herbs. A soft, sweet, red fruit combines in an exciting way with the typical Roagna austerity on the palate to an impressive complexity and length. It will only reveal its true elegance to us in a few years. SUPERIORE.DE

"Ruby red with bright reflections. The nose delights with a bouquet of floral notes: Mallow, hibiscus and hollyhocks are surrounded by fruity cherries and preserved raspberries and complemented by spicy aromas of black pepper, cedar and juniper berries. The red fruit is accompanied by dark aromas and vegetal notes of blackcurrant and blackberry leaves. The attack is initially subtle until the iron fist is brought out in a velvet glove. The gentle attack calmly builds up immense pressure with great inner tension on the mid-palate. The extract-sweet fruit of cherries and a fine core of sloes mingle with marzipan and noble bitter notes of the ripe tannins, which give it additional length. The exemplary use of wood highlights exactly what characterises a Barbaresco: Concentration combined with lightness and transparency." Sebastian Bordthäuser (Sommelier und Wein-Journalist)

Gallina comes from a steep, sandy vineyard, similar to the Asili site, but with less limestone, which gives it more roundness and fullness. Full bouquet of sweet tobacco, cedar wood, liquorice and dried herbs. A soft, sweet, red fruit combines with the typical Roagna austerity in an exciting way on the palate to create an impressive complexity and length. It will only reveal its true elegance in a few years' time. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Pira is a great, complex wine that has enormous depth and many nuances that open up further with time. It is light-footed yet wonderfully brooding and has so much to offer. Cherry, sweet red cherry, spice, orange peel, menthol and spice fill out the layers effortlessly. Young Barolo tannins are present, but the fruit is rich enough to keep things in balance. SUPERIORE.DE

Roagna's Barbaresco Pajè already has a great need to communicate in its youth and shows itself to be open-minded and with multi-layered flavours, full-bodied and harmoniously balanced. An extraordinary pleasure for the next 20 years. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Rocche di Castiglione comes from a parcel just above the Cascina Pira of Roagna. It offers a captivating blend of supple fruit, soaring flavours and structure. The 2019 is silky and sensual through and through, as wines from this vineyard tend to be. It is transparent, beguiling and mesmerising from the very first sip. SUPERIORE.DE

Gallina comes from a steep, sandy vineyard, similar to the Asili site, but with less limestone, which gives it more roundness and fullness. Full bouquet of sweet tobacco, cedar wood, liquorice and dried herbs. A soft, sweet, red fruit combines with the typical Roagna austerity in an exciting way on the palate to create an impressive complexity and length. It will only reveal its true elegance in a few years' time. SUPERIORE.DE

What does a name mean? In the Piedmontese dialect, "Pajè" once simply referred to the various vineyard parcels – an everyday word for everyday things. The fact that this name now stands for one of the most legendary crus of Barbaresco is one of the beautiful ironies of wine history. The Roagna family has been cultivating 1.83 hectares here in the heart of the municipality since 1953, and anyone who asks Luca Roagna about the core of his work will inevitably end up here. The vineyard is a natural amphitheatre: gently sloping to the south and south-west, protected from the wind by hills and open to the Tanaro valley. The soil tells of 70 million years of – marine sediments from the Tertiary period, interspersed with active limestone in a concentration that is exceptional even for the Langhe. The vines, on average over 50 years old, are deeply rooted in this history. After the harvest, the must ferments with its own yeasts and macerates for up to two months with a submerged cap. Five years in large wooden barrels and concrete complete the maturation process.

Geologists speak of erosion. Winegrowers speak of fate. Over millions of years, the rocks above Castiglione Falletto weathered and formed the soil on which Pira now thrives. When Luca Roagna acquired half a hectare on these very Rocche in 2016, a circle was completed: the mother rock returned to the child. The parcel is located in the historic heart of the site, at the top of the hill at three hundred metres, with a pure southern exposure. Calcareous clay soils, interspersed with white rock and sand, nourish Nebbiolo vines from the 1960s and 70s – planted with vines from ancient stocks. Situated right next to the new winery, this vineyard is Roagna's most intimate property: just 0.48 hectares, from which a Barolo is created that Antonio Galloni simply calls "pure sensuality".

Anyone who hears the name Albesani inevitably thinks of Bruno Giacosa and his mythical Santo Stefano. The fact that Luca Roagna has been cultivating a plot of land in the immediate neighbourhood since 2014 is one of the best-kept secrets of Barbaresco – and one of its most exciting developments. The plot is located at 240 metres at the highest point of the hill, where the area borders Santo Stefano. The terroir is characterised by chalky soils with a good proportion of sand, and fifty-year-old Nebbiolo vines are deeply rooted in this privileged soil. Albesani has held MGA certification since 2007 – late recognition for a vineyard that connoisseurs have long counted among the greatest in the region. The vinification follows the Roagna canon: maceration with a submerged cap for two months, five years of ageing in large barrels and concrete.