San Giusto a Rentennano

Fuori Misura – beyond all measure. The name is no mere flourish. It is a description. This Rosato is not made in the same way as other rosés. It is not a by-product, nor the result of a separate decision. It is a saignée – a bleeding – from the very same fermentation vats in which the Chianti Classico, the Riserva Le Baròncole and the Percarlo are being produced at the same time. The must is drawn off 12 to 24 hours after crushing. To this are added 10% freshly pressed grapes, which macerate for up to 12 days. Sangiovese, Canaiolo – the very soul of the estate, seen in a different light.

Multi-layered aroma, lots of dark cherry fruit, delicate herbal spice and cedar flavours. Juicy dark wild cherries on the palate, ripe, perfectly integrated tannins, elegant and delicate, fine mineral spice, surprisingly full-bodied and animating. A representative of the appellation that opens up beautifully and hits the right notes, like something out of a picture book! SUPERIORE.DE

San Giusto a Rentennano – the name is of Etruscan origin and embodies centuries of history. This medieval estate lies in the southernmost corner of Chianti Classico, where the region meets the upper reaches of the Arbia and the hills become more remote, quieter and rougher. A Cistercian monastery – San Giusto alle Monache – once stood here. In 1204, the Florentines fortified the area as a border outpost against Siena. The underground vaults from that period now serve as the storage cellars for Martini di Cigala. The family has owned the estate since 1914. Luca, Francesco and Elisabetta now run it guided by the conviction that has defined the estate since the early 1980s: Sangiovese needs no shortcuts. It needs low yields, fully ripe harvestand time. Organically farmed since 2006, with green pruning in July and August reducing yields by 30 to 50 per cent. 95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, harvested by hand.

The eleven hectares of olive groves at San Giusto a Rentennano are located in the middle of the same hills that give the estate's wines their identity. Organically cultivated, harvested by hand – the same care that the estate has applied to its wines for decades is applied here to the olives. The result: an extra virgin with a clear character. Freshly pressed, unfiltered in the style of the house – intense, with the bite of an early harvested Tuscan olive and a grassy freshness that reveals its origins.

Le Baròncole Riserva captivates right from the nose with its juicy fruit and stone fruit aromas, and carries this lovely impression through to the palate. Cherries, sour cherries and blackberries – very juicy and powerful on the palate – fill the mouth completely, whilst remaining lively and elegant throughout. Silky, fine-grained tannins and a long, balsamic finish leave you longing for the next glass. A fine wine. Good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Le Baròncole – the little manors. The name refers to the feudal division of this land in the Middle Ages, to landowners who were small enough to be forgotten, but large enough to leave their mark on the landscape. Today, Le Baròncole is the name of the finest Chianti Classico from San Giusto a Rentennano – a Riserva produced only in years when the terroir warrants it. The estate overlooks the upper Arbia Valley at an altitude of 270 metres. The soils are diverse – sand, clay, limestone and mineral-rich deposits – and characterised by a microclimate that experiences marked temperature fluctuations between day and night. In such locations, Sangiovese ripens differently to elsewhere: more slowly, with greater tension, and with a freshness not found in the Maremma or the lower Chianti region. 97% Sangiovese, 3% Canaiolo, hand-harvested in September when the Martini di Cigalas grapes are at their best. Aged for 16 to 20 months in large oak casks and French barriques, depending on the vintage, followed by a further six months' bottle ageing.

San Giusto a Rentennano – the name is of Etruscan origin, and it embodies the passage of centuries. This medieval estate lies in the southernmost corner of Chianti Classico, where the region meets the upper reaches of the Arbia and the hills become more remote, quieter and rougher. A Cistercian monastery – San Giusto alle Monache – once stood here. In 1204, the Florentines fortified the site as a border outpost against Siena. The underground vaults dating from that period now serve as the cellars of Martini di Cigala. The family has owned the estate since 1914. Luca, Francesco and Elisabetta now run it guided by the conviction that has defined the estate since the early 1980s: Sangiovese needs no shortcuts. It requires low yields, fully ripe harvestand time. Organically farmed since 2006, with green pruning in July and August reducing yields by 30 to 50 per cent. 95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, harvested by hand.

There are wines that you count – by points, by vintages and, every now and then, by price. And then there's VinSanGiusto. That one is counted and judged by rare experiences. Malvasia and Trebbiano are harvested by hand once the grapes have reached the desired level of ripeness. Then comes the most unusual part: the grapes are dried on racks in well-ventilated rooms. Not just a few weeks – around 140 days. For almost five months, they lose water, concentrating their sugars, acids and aromas. Then they are pressed. What follows is a true anachronism in the best sense of the word. The must is transferred to small chestnut barrels – 40 to 180 Liters – and stored in attics, where it is exposed to seasonal temperature fluctuations. Summer and winter, heat and cold, year after year. Six years. During this time, it ferments and develops slowly, without any intervention. 40% of the liquid evaporates, which also explains its extraordinary concentration. No rush, no control, no shortcuts. Then comes filtration: drop by drop through Dutch cloth. Then 18 months in the bottle. And not a single gram of added sulphur.

1983 was the first year. Luca Martini di Cigala, who was at that time in the process of taking over an estate that was still selling its wine in bulk to Antinori and Ruffino, decided to do the opposite of what many of his contemporaries were doing: no international grape varieties, no modernisation of the label, no barriques full of vanilla. A single wine, from a single vineyard, made from a single grape variety. Sangiovese. San Giusto a Rentennano. – Percarlo made its debut with the 1983 vintage – and immediately began to rewrite the history of Chianti Classico. The wine's philosophy is that of its maker: the vineyard comes before the cellar. The grapes for Percarlo are not selected by plot; instead, every bunch of grapes is examined, every vine, every site. The yield is one kilogram per vine. This has been the approach since 2001, because Martini di Cigala recognised how inconsistent Sangiovese can be from vine to vine, even within the same plot. The soils that give Percarlo its character date predominantly from the Pliocene – layers of sand and stones, two to five metres deep, resting on a bed of clay and earth. Mineral-rich, well-drained, with the ability to influence the Sangiovese over the years.

Sangiovese in purezza. Wonderfully spicy aroma, dark forest berries and cherries, some graphite and cedar wood. Silky elegance on the palate, juicy, dark berries, paired with an animating interplay of fruit and acidity that really lets the wine dance across the tongue. Percarlo has depth and length as well as potential for many years in the cellar. One of the great single-varietal Sangiovese wines of central Tuscany. SUPERIORE.DE

One of Italy's finest Merlots: its inviting bouquet is almost reminiscent of a Burgundy, with notes of raspberries and, as the wine opens up, the typical black forest berries and a delicate peppery spice. On the palate, too, there is a generous variety of flavours, combining power and depth with finesse and elegance. Not at all coarse, but harmonious, beautifully rounded by ripe, silky tannins and very long on the finish. A true rarity – not least because only around 5,000 bottles were produced, meaning it is virtually impossible to come across it for a tasting. SUPERIORE.DE

1983 was the first year. Luca Martini di Cigala, who was in the process of taking over an estate that was still selling its wine in bulk to Antinori and Ruffino, decided to do the opposite of what many of his contemporaries were doing: no international grape varieties, no modernisation of the label, no barriques full of vanilla. A single wine, from a single vineyard, from a single grape variety. Sangiovese. San Giusto a Rentennano. – Percarlo made its debut with the 1983 vintage – and immediately began to rewrite the history of Chianti Classico. The wine's philosophy is that of its maker: the vineyard comes before the cellar. The grapes for Percarlo are not selected by plot; instead, every bunch of grapes is inspected, every vine, every plot. The yield is one kilogram per vine. This has been the approach since 2001, because Martini di Cigala realised just how inconsistent Sangiovese can be from vine to vine, even within the same plot. The soils that give Percarlo its character date predominantly from the Pliocene – layers of sand and stones, two to five metres deep, resting on a bed of clay. Mineral-rich, well-drained, with the ability to influence the Sangiovese over the years.

1983 was the first year. Luca Martini di Cigala, who was at that time in the process of taking over an estate that was still selling its wine in bulk to Antinori and Ruffino, decided to do the opposite of what many of his contemporaries were doing: no international grape varieties, no modernisation of the label, no barriques full of vanilla. A single wine, from a single vineyard, made from a single grape variety. Sangiovese. San Giusto a Rentennano. – Percarlo made its debut with the 1983 vintage – and immediately began to rewrite the history of Chianti Classico. The wine's philosophy is that of its maker: the vineyard comes before the cellar. The grapes for Percarlo are not selected by plot; instead, every bunch of grapes is inspected, every vine, every site. The yield is one kilogram per vine. This has been the approach since 2001, because Martini di Cigala realised how inconsistent Sangiovese can be from vine to vine, even within the same plot. The soils that characterise the Percarlo date predominantly from the Pliocene – layers of sand and stones, two to five metres deep, resting on a bed of clay. Mineral-rich, well-drained, with the ability to influence the Sangiovese over the years.

1983 was the first year. Luca Martini di Cigala, who was at the time in the process of taking over an estate that was still selling its wine in bulk to Antinori and Ruffino, decided to do the opposite of what many of his contemporaries were doing: no international grape varieties, no modernisation of the label, no barriques full of vanilla. A single wine, from a single vineyard, made from a single grape variety. Sangiovese. San Giusto a Rentennano. – Percarlo made its debut with the 1983 vintage – and immediately began to rewrite the history of Chianti Classico. The wine's philosophy is that of its maker: the vineyard comes before the cellar. The grapes for Percarlo are not selected by plot; instead, every bunch of grapes is examined, every vine, every site. The yield is one kilogram per vine. This has been the approach since 2001, because Martini di Cigala recognised how inconsistent Sangiovese can be from vine to vine, even within the same plot. The soils that give Percarlo its character date predominantly from the Pliocene – layers of sand and stones, two to five metres deep, resting on a bed of clay. Mineral-rich, well-drained, with the ability to influence the Sangiovese over the years.