Supertuscan

Supertuscan – no single formula

Few terms in the world of Italian wine sound so much like a clearly defined category – and are in fact anything but. Supertuscan is neither a DOC nor a DOCG, it does not denote a particular grape variety and it prescribes neither a specific growing area, blend nor ageing method. That is precisely what makes it so compelling: the term refers to wines that emerged because a number of Tuscan producers followed their own ideas of quality, even when those ideas did not fit within the rules of the established appellations at the time.

Some turned to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc or Merlot. Others wanted to vinify Sangiovese without the white grape varieties then required by the regulations. Still others combined indigenous and international varieties or experimented with new approaches to maturation. What united them was less a recipe than an attitude: the wine should determine what was possible – not the template.

The result remains unusual to this day. The name Supertuscan encompasses pure Sangiovese wines just as readily as Merlot, Sangiovese-Cabernet blends and Bordeaux-inspired cuvées. Many carry Toscana IGT on the label. Others now belong to established DOC appellations. To understand Supertuscan, therefore, it is better to look not for a set of rules, but for the story behind the wine.

• Term: informal, legally undefined designation for high-quality Tuscan red wines
• Origin: Tuscany – from the hills of the Chianti area to Bolgheri, the Maremma and other parts of the region
• Grape varieties: including Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, either varietally or as blends
• Designation: frequently Toscana IGT, but in some cases now within established DOC appellations
• Style: no prescribed style – origin, grape varieties, vintage and the producer's individual approach are decisive

A revolution without its own seal

The story begins long before the word "Supertuscan" was ever used. In 1944, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted Cabernet Sauvignon at Tenuta San Guido near Bolgheri. The Sassicaia that developed from this experiment was initially reserved for family and friends. The 1968 vintage was the first eventually to be released commercially.

At around the same time, the established rules were also beginning to be challenged in the Chianti Classico area. San Felice first produced Vigorello in 1968. A few years later, Antinori took another decisive step with Tignanello. The 1971 vintage was no longer released as Chianti Classico, but as Vino da Tavola Toscana. Sangiovese remained at its core, while Cabernet opened the blend to a new interpretation. From the 1975 vintage onwards, Antinori dispensed entirely with the white grape varieties previously used.

One person formed an important link between these two lines of development: Giacomo Tachis had worked for Antinori since the 1960s and also played a major role in the further development of Sassicaia. His work on Sassicaia and Tignanello therefore became one of the connecting elements of a movement that began in different places geographically, but was by no means isolated in oenological terms.

The term "Supertuscan" only gained international currency later, during the 1980s. In retrospect, it brought together wines whose very commonality was that they could not easily be reduced to a single definition.

That distinction still matters. Supertuscan is not a historical synonym for "Cabernet from Bolgheri". Nor does the term automatically imply powerful wines or any particular cellar technique. The movement had several points of origin and, from the outset, different ideas of what a great Tuscan red wine could be.

From Vino da Tavola to Toscana IGT

The irony of the early Supertuscans lay in their official classification. Some of Italy's most ambitious and later most celebrated wines initially had to appear as Vino da Tavola – formally a very basic category. Their composition did not comply with the regulations of established appellations at the time, so the designation on the label offered little indication of their quality.

In 1992, the Italian system of origin began to catch up with this development in legal terms as well: Law No. 164 of 10 February introduced the designation Indicazione Geografica Tipica, or IGT, into Italian wine law. It offered producers a more suitable geographical framework for wines that did not conform to the rules of existing DOC or DOCG appellations, while numerous appellations themselves continued to evolve.

Bolgheri illustrates just how fundamental this change was. What had begun outside any suitable red-wine DOC developed into one of Tuscany's best-known appellations. Ornellaia now bears the designation Bolgheri DOC Superiore. Sassicaia went a step further: after its production area was first recognised as a subzone of Bolgheri DOC in 1994, Bolgheri Sassicaia became an independent DOC in 2013. It is reserved for a single wine from a single estate.

Other important wines deliberately remained Toscana IGT. Tignanello, for example, carries the Toscana IGT designation.

For this reason, "IGT" and "DOC" cannot be read as a hierarchy of quality. Nor does a wine necessarily cease to be regarded as a Supertuscan in common usage simply because wine law has since caught up with its development.

Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot – no fixed recipe

The idea that Supertuscans must be made from international grape varieties is one of the most persistent simplifications surrounding the term.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and later Petit Verdot undoubtedly played an important role. They opened new possibilities for Tuscan producers and had a particularly lasting influence on the coastal regions. Yet Sangiovese was every bit as much a part of the revolution.

Tignanello combines Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Concerto di Fonterutoli brings together Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Badia a Coltibuono's Sangioveto takes a different route: produced since 1980, this Toscana IGT is made entirely from Sangiovese.

At the other end of the spectrum is Redigaffi from Tua Rita, a pure Merlot. Saffredi from Fattoria Le Pupille, by contrast, combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot.

These few examples alone show why any rigid definition fails. What matters is not whether Sangiovese is present or absent. Nor does Cabernet automatically make a wine a Supertuscan. The term describes a historical and stylistic family – not a recipe of grape varieties.

Tuscany is bigger than Bolgheri

Bolgheri is indispensable to the history of Supertuscans, but it does not define their geography.

On the Tyrrhenian coast, Sassicaia and later estates such as Ornellaia developed a particularly successful interpretation of international grape varieties. The maritime climate, varied soils and work of the producers established Bolgheri as a wine region in its own right, and its present-day DOC is far more than a collection of former outsiders.

Inland, the development followed a different path. In the Chianti Classico area, producers were often concerned with exploring new possibilities for Sangiovese or combining it with Cabernet and other varieties. Alongside Tignanello, this is where wines such as Vigorello, Sangioveto, Concerto, Brancaia Il Blu, Balifico and Camartina emerged.

Further south, the Maremma demonstrated that distinctive top wines based on international varieties could also emerge outside Bolgheri. Saffredi from Fattoria Le Pupille and Redigaffi from Tua Rita are among the best-known examples.

There is therefore no single "Supertuscan soil" or Supertuscan climate. The limestone-rich hills of the Chianti area, the coastal sites around Bolgheri and the landscapes of the southern Maremma differ considerably from one another. That diversity is part of the very nature of the term.

Why do Supertuscans taste so different?

Open two bottles described as Supertuscan side by side and you may find two entirely different wines in the glass.

A Sangiovese-led wine from the Chianti area may place acidity, red fruit, spice and pronounced tannic structure in the foreground. A Merlot from Suvereto can show a very different texture and richness of fruit. A Cabernet-led wine from the coast may differ markedly from both.

Then there are the producer's decisions: proportions of grape varieties, harvest date, extraction, fermentation, type of wood, barrel size, length of maturation and release date. The vintage adds another variable.

This is precisely why the producer matters so much with Supertuscan. Unlike a narrowly defined appellation, the name of the category alone offers relatively few clues as to what will ultimately be in the glass.

Barrique is a stylistic tool, not a rule

The small French oak barrel is undeniably part of the history of many Supertuscans. The orientation of some pioneers towards Bordeaux and the use of barriques were important elements of the period's spirit of innovation.

But it would be wrong to turn this into a rule.

Supertuscan has no prescribed form of maturation whatsoever. Producers may use new or used oak, choose different barrel sizes or mature individual stages in concrete or stainless steel. Even within a single estate, methods can vary considerably from one wine to another.

Nor can the taste therefore be reduced to vanilla, cedar, dark fruit and soft tannins. Modern Supertuscans can be powerful and concentrated, but equally taut, cool in profile, driven by acidity or remarkably transparent.

The common denominator is not the barrique. It is the freedom to shape an individual wine from its origin and grape varieties.

Seven estates, seven approaches

Tenuta San Guido stands at the beginning of a development without which Bolgheri today would be difficult to imagine. Sassicaia placed Cabernet Sauvignon in a Tuscan context long before there was a suitable appellation for it. The fact that the wine now has its own DOC makes its history all the more remarkable.

Tenuta Tignanello by Marchesi Antinori represents the other major line of origin. Here, Sangiovese remained at the heart of the wine, but was freed from the regulations of Chianti Classico at the time and combined with Cabernet and new approaches to maturation. Tignanello illustrates why Supertuscan should never be understood solely as a Bordeaux model.

San Felice, with Vigorello, also belongs to the early history of the movement. The wine was first produced in 1968 and its composition has changed over the decades. In more recent vintages it combines international varieties with Pugnitello – almost a textbook example of why Supertuscan is not a historical recipe frozen in time.

Badia a Coltibuono takes the idea in yet another direction. Sangioveto has been produced since 1980 and is based on Sangiovese. The wine is a particularly clear counterargument to the notion that international grape varieties are a prerequisite for a Supertuscan.

Ornellaia represents Bolgheri's development from an experimental coastal region into an internationally established DOC. The first Ornellaia was produced from the 1985 vintage; the wine now bears the designation Bolgheri DOC Superiore. Its history shows how closely "Supertuscan" and official appellation status can now be intertwined.

Tua Rita established a very different signature near Suvereto. Redigaffi has been made from Merlot since the 1994 vintage and bears the designation Toscana Merlot IGT. One wine, one grape variety – and yet firmly rooted in the historical understanding of Supertuscan.

Fattoria Le Pupille extends the picture into the southern Maremma. Saffredi was first produced in 1987 and in more recent vintages combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. It represents a region whose interpretation of international grape varieties did not develop as a copy of Bolgheri, but from its own origin and history.

And that is far from the full breadth of our range. Estates such as Castello di Fonterutoli, Brancaia, Castello di Volpaia and Querciabella also belong to the historical Supertuscan movement in the Chianti Classico area. Alongside them are younger interpretations from Bolgheri, the Maremma and other parts of Tuscany.

Not every one of these wines tells the same story – and that is precisely what makes the category so interesting.

Buy Supertuscan online at SUPERIORE.DE

With Supertuscan in particular, it pays to look beyond the famous term itself. The crucial question is not: "Which Supertuscan is the best?" but rather: "Which interpretation interests me?"

Those who love Sangiovese will find wines that explore the variety on its own or in combination with Cabernet. Those who prefer structured Cabernet blends can look towards Bolgheri and other coastal areas. Merlot lovers will find distinctive varietal interpretations, while other wines deliberately combine several Tuscan and international grape varieties.

The appellation on the label can also help with orientation. Toscana IGT allows considerable freedom, but on its own says little about style or quality level. A DOC such as Bolgheri, by contrast, describes a clearly delimited origin with its own production rules – without the wine in question necessarily disappearing from the cultural history of Supertuscan.

At SUPERIORE.DE, the selection accordingly ranges from historical pioneers to younger interpretations. Producer, origin, grape varieties and vintage remain the decisive points of reference. "Supertuscan" is the beginning of the story – not its complete description.

Questions and answers about Supertuscan

What is a Supertuscan?

Supertuscan is an informal and legally undefined term for Tuscan red wines whose history is linked to quality-minded producers moving beyond the limits of the established appellation rules of their time. There is no prescribed grape variety, no single defined production area within Tuscany and no mandatory method of maturation.

Is Supertuscan a DOC or DOCG?

No. Supertuscan is neither a protected appellation nor a legally regulated wine category. The wines concerned may, for example, carry Toscana IGT, while some now belong to a DOC such as Bolgheri or Bolgheri Sassicaia.

Which grape varieties are used for Supertuscan wines?

Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot are frequently used. There is, however, no prescribed composition. Supertuscans may be varietal wines or blends.

Are Supertuscans always made from international grape varieties?

No. International varieties play an important role, but they are not a prerequisite. Some well-known Supertuscans are based predominantly or entirely on Sangiovese.

Does a Supertuscan have to be Toscana IGT?

No. Many famous wines carry Toscana IGT because this designation allows considerable freedom in terms of grape varieties and vinification. Other wines regarded historically or in common usage as Supertuscans now belong to a DOC.

What is the difference between Supertuscan and Bolgheri?

Bolgheri is a legally defined DOC with a clearly delimited production area and its own regulations. Supertuscan, by contrast, is an informal umbrella term. Many famous Supertuscans come from Bolgheri, but by no means all of them – and not every Bolgheri is automatically a Supertuscan.

Are Supertuscans always aged in barriques?

No. Barriques are historically closely associated with many famous Supertuscans, but they are not a requirement. Depending on the wine and producer, larger wooden casks, concrete, stainless steel or combinations of different maturation vessels may also be used.

What does a Supertuscan taste like?

There is no single answer. A Sangiovese-led Supertuscan can taste very different from a pure Merlot or a Cabernet-dominant blend. Origin, grape varieties, vintage and vinification influence the style far more than the term Supertuscan itself.

How long can a Supertuscan age?

Many ambitious examples have considerable ageing potential, but any blanket figure would be misleading. Grape varieties, structure, vintage, maturation and producer determine whether a wine is approachable early or can develop over many years or even decades.

What food goes well with Supertuscan?

The range of styles is broad. Sangiovese-led wines often pair particularly well with Tuscan meat dishes, ragù or mature cheeses. Structured Cabernet- or Merlot-based wines can accompany rich braised dishes, game and grilled meat. The specific style of the individual wine is what matters.

How do I choose a Supertuscan?

The most reliable guides are origin, grape varieties and producer. Taking these three factors into account tells you far more about the likely style than the term Supertuscan on its own.

Can I order Supertuscan online?

Yes. At SUPERIORE.DE you will find Supertuscans from different origins, with different grape compositions and stylistic profiles.

How is Supertuscan shipped?

Supertuscans are carefully and securely packaged for shipping. Current shipping costs and delivery conditions are shown transparently during the ordering process.

What remains of that freedom

The great Supertuscans emerged from a contradiction: some of the most ambitious wines of their time did not fit the categories available to them. Decades later, the rules have changed, Bolgheri is a renowned DOC and Sassicaia even has an appellation of its own. Yet the name Supertuscan has remained.

Perhaps precisely because it never referred merely to a category. It tells the story of producers who rethought Sangiovese, gave Cabernet and Merlot a distinctly Tuscan voice and showed that origin is not the same thing as conformity with a set of rules. Today, the quality of a Supertuscan lies not in how far it distances itself from tradition, but in how convincingly it shapes an individual wine from its origin, grape varieties and the hand of its producer. SUPERIORE.DE