Lisini

In Tuscany, olive oil was never a by-product. Together with grain and wine, it was the third pillar of the rural economy – and Lisini has never abandoned this principle. The estate's 28 hectares of olive groves follow the traditional "impianto promiscuo": olive trees not in specialised monocultures, but in alternating rows between vineyards and fields – a cultivation method that reflects the balance of the entire farm and preserves the Tuscan cultural landscape as it has grown for centuries. Around 8,000 trees, some of which are in inaccessible terrain, which is used exclusively to preserve the soil. Moraiolo, Leccino and Correggiolo – harvested entirely by hand, cold-pressed.

The oldest documents in the family archive date back to the middle of the 16th century. In 1967, Lisini was one of the 24 founding members of the Brunello Consortium. One of the oldest and most enduring houses in the appellation – and one of the most stylistically independent, because Sant'Angelo in Colle has its own character. The vineyards are located in southern Montalcino, between the fractions of Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate, at an altitude of 300 to 350 metres, on tuff-rich soil of Eocene origin. The warm Maremma winds that blow up from the coast every day characterise the microclimate: ripe fruit, Mediterranean warmth and a freshness that other locations do not offer.

Lodovico Lisini died in 1950 and left the estate to his daughter Elina. At a time when the Mezzadria was coming to an end and agriculture was being abandoned, Elina decided differently: she invested, planted new vineyards and transformed a family estate into a serious winery. In 1967, she was one of the 24 founders of the Brunello Consortium. She was its president for many years. Until her death in 2009, it was the quiet, tenacious Elina Lisini who gave the name of this house its reputation – and a wine that Giulio Gambelli, Italy's most legendary taster, helped to shape. The estate is located in southern Montalcino between Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate, on tuff-rich soil of Eocene origin, 300 to 350 metres above sea level and characterised by the warm Maremma breezes. 2021 was a year of extraordinary harmony: warm, balanced summer, cool nights until September, even ripeness, precise tannins.

700 bottles. That is the entire production of this Vin Santo – from the Vigneto delle Valli at 420 metres, 5,000 vines per hectare, 1.5 kilograms of grapes per vine. Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia Bianca, half each, harvested by hand in the first days of September 2018 and then transferred to the appassimento. The grapes were left to dry for four months in the ventilated appassitoio – four months in which the water drained away, the sugar concentrated and the flavour intensified. Then manual pressing with a mechanical hand press. What remains finds its way into 100-litre chestnut Liters– sealed with the winery's mother yeast, which is passed on from vintage to vintage. There the must rests, ferments slowly and matures for five years. Five years in which wood, yeast and time do their part.

Ugolaia is a 1.7-hectare, south-west-facing plot with a view of the sea, where the temperature fluctuations between day and night are considerable. The estate's oldest vines grow here on red iron soil.

Lisini produces four Brunelli. Each one stands for a different conviction – the Annata stands for balance and accessibility, the Ugolaia for the character of a single vineyard, the new Poggio Severo for a cooler, higher parcel. The Riserva stands for something else: for tradition. The estate itself calls it the most traditional wine in the entire portfolio – not because it is older, but because it epitomises the classic Montalcino ideal: Concentration, depth, patience. It is the result of a strict selection of the best grapes from the entire estate – from the vineyards around Sant'Angelo in Colle and the Sesta vineyard near Castelnuovo dell'Abate. No single vineyard, but the sum of the best that a vintage has to offer. The maceration period of 20 to 26 days is longer than for the Annata, and the ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels is correspondingly extended.

If Montosoli is the great Montalcino cru in the north, then the Sesta area between Castelnuovo dell'Abate and Sant'Angelo in Colle is its southern counterpart. This is where the Lisini vineyards are located.

Ugolaia is a name that carries weight in Montalcino. The vineyard is located in the classic Sesta area, exposed to the south-west, in one of the best-sunniest and best-ventilated areas of the entire estate – and it bears a tradition that is taken literally at Lisini: The "veterani" of the company, the most experienced employees who have known the estate for decades, personally graft scions from the company's own massalselection onto wild rootstocks. No clone selection from the catalogue, no technological shortcuts – but knowledge passed on from hand to hand, vintage after vintage.

Lisini's vineyards are located between Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate on the inner edge of the Sesta area and are cleansed by the constant breeze from the Tuscan coast. The stony soils with a significant proportion of limestone and the altitude of over 300 metres help to maintain the freshness of the wines. The 2018 is wonderfully fragrant, almost exotic. Plump red fruits and sweet summer herbs fill the mouth, but instead of being heavy, it is balanced and transparent. The powdery tannins are fine and lead to a long, maritime finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Ugolaia is a name that carries weight in Montalcino. The vineyard is located in the classic Sesta area, exposed to the south-west, in one of the best-sunniest and best-ventilated areas of the entire estate – and it bears a tradition that is taken literally at Lisini: The "veterani" of the company, the most experienced employees who have known the estate for decades, personally graft scions from the company's own massalselection onto wild rootstocks. No clone selection from the catalogue, no technological shortcuts – but knowledge passed on from hand to hand, vintage after vintage.

Lisini produces four Brunelli. Each one stands for a different conviction – the Annata stands for balance and accessibility, the Ugolaia for the character of a single vineyard, the new Poggio Severo for a cooler, higher parcel. The Riserva stands for something else: for tradition. The estate itself calls it the most traditional wine in the entire portfolio – not because it is older, but because it epitomises the classic Montalcino ideal: Concentration, depth, patience. It is the result of a strict selection of the best grapes from the entire estate – from the vineyards around Sant'Angelo in Colle and the Sesta vineyard near Castelnuovo dell'Abate. No single vineyard, but the sum of the best that a vintage has to offer. The maceration period of 20 to 26 days is longer than for the Annata, and the ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels is correspondingly extended.

Ugolaia is a name that carries weight in Montalcino. The vineyard is located in the classic Sesta area, exposed to the south-west, in one of the best-sunniest and best-ventilated areas of the entire estate – and it bears a tradition that is taken literally at Lisini: The "veterani" of the company, the most experienced employees who have known the estate for decades, personally graft scions from the company's own massalselection onto wild rootstocks. No clone selection from the catalogue, no technological shortcuts – but knowledge passed on from hand to hand, vintage after vintage.

If Montosoli is the great Montalcino cru in the north, then the Sesta area between Castelnuovo dell'Abate and Sant'Angelo in Colle is its southern counterpart. This is where the Lisini vineyards are located.