Wine

F for Falò – bonfire. The name alludes to the traditional bonfires that are lit in Salento at the winter solstice. Cantine San Marzano dedicates a single-varietal Negroamaro to this custom, emphasising the dark, intense side of this indigenous grape variety. The grapes grow on the calcareous, iron oxide-rich soils between San Marzano di San Giuseppe and Sava. After manual harvesting, the grapes undergo prolonged maceration, followed by twelve months of ageing in Caucasian oak barrels – an unusual choice of wood that gives the wine its own aromatic signature.

Here is one of the most beautiful interpretations of the white Carricante grape variety, matured for six months on the fine lees. Alta Mora Bianco comes from vineyards on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where Carricante vines thrive at an altitude of 600 to 900 metres – directly on volcanic rock that is rich in minerals and ash. The cool altitude, combined with intense sunlight and strong day-night fluctuations, characterises this wine with an unmistakable freshness, structure and salty tension. The wine is vinified purely in stainless steel in order to bring the purity of the grape variety and the terroir unadulterated into the glass.

62 years after the cooperative was founded in 1962 – this explains the name of this Riserva, which surpasses the Sessantanni in terms of ageing time and quality. The grapes come from the oldest plots of the cooperative, bush vines in Alberello training on the characteristic red clay soils of Salento. The grapes are harvested by hand, followed by prolonged maceration to maximise extraction. Then aged for 18 months in small oak barrels – six months longer than the Sessantanni –followed by further ageing in the bottle before release.

Illuminati's Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riparosso has a sweet scent of violets and lavender, followed by crushed blackberries and chalk dust. It washes over the palate with soft textures and ripe wild berries, contrasted towards the end by sour citrus fruits. It finishes perfumed and with admirable length, leaving a layer of dusty tannins that tug at the cheeks. Very Italian – very well made. SUPERIORE.DE

Probably the most famous Lugana from the southern shore of Lake Garda – i Frati is the flagship of the estate. Made from 100% Turbiana from calcareous moraine soils, it combines regional typicity with fine modern precision. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with greenish reflections. Fresh citrus fruit, white peaches, pears and a hint of almond blossom on the nose, complemented by delicate herbal notes. Clear and juicy on the palate, with lively, well-integrated acidity, fine flavour and a subtle mineral vein that lends freshness and depth in equal measure. The final is long, elegant and characterised by citrus fruit. A timeless classic that brings the terroir of the Lugana region perfectly into the glass – stylish, stimulating to drink and with assured ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Zenato has stood for reliable quality from the Veneto region since 1960 – no experiments, but solid craftsmanship over generations. The home of this Valpolicella Superiore is the gentle vineyards in the soft hills of Valpolicella Classica, in the heart of Sant'Ambrogio. Corvina Veronese forms the backbone with 85 per cent, supplemented by Rondinella and Corvinone from the 35 hectares of own vineyards. The grapes are harvested by hand in October, de-stemmed and macerated in stainless steel for ten days before the wine matures for twelve months in large oak barrels.

Sessantanni – sixty years old. The age of the gnarled bush vines, which are rooted in traditional Alberello training on the iron oxide-rich terra rossa soils of San Marzano and Sava. This form of training, in which the vines grow low and without wire frames, is labour-intensive, but protects the grapes from the scorching Apulian sun and naturally limits yields – around 3,000 kilograms per hectare. With Sessantanni, Cantine San Marzano has created a label that has significantly shaped the international perception of Apulian wines. The fully ripe grapes are harvested by hand at the end of September. 80 per cent of the must is left to macerate for 18 days, the remaining 20 per cent for 25 days for maximum extraction. Vinification with indigenous yeasts, twelve months of ageing in French and American oak barrels.

Silìneo – a neologism born from the fusion of "sinuoso" (supple) and "lineo" (linear). The name epitomises what this wine is all about: elegance, suppleness, balance and harmony. It is the most classic wine from Fattoria del Cerro and has been the most successful for years. Silìneo is made from 90 per cent Sangiovese (locally called Prugnolo Gentile) and ten per cent Merlot and Colorino, from vineyards in Acquaviva di Montepulciano on soils of marine Pliocene origin with clay and silt between 250 and 400 metres above sea level. After manual harvesting, fermentation takes place with maceration at 24 to 28°C with daily overflow and délestage. The wine then matures for seven months in tonneaux, followed by eleven months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

With the Brolettino, Ca' dei Frati shows the powerful, mature side of Lugana. The Turbiana grapes come from older vines, whose deep roots give the fruit particular concentration. After fermentation, the wine matures for several months in barriques, which gives it additional structure and depth. Brilliant straw yellow colour with golden reflections in the glass. Ripe yellow fruit, pineapple, apricot and candied lemon on the nose, with fine vanilla and almond notes. Creamy and full-bodied on the palate, with an elegant woody flavour, fine minerality and harmoniously integrated acidity. The finish is long, smooth and delicately enveloping. A Lugana with fullness and elegance, which presents itself excellently both young and after a few years of ageing in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

Nero di Troia was long the well-kept secret of northern Apulia – used in cuvées, rarely in its pure form. Torrevento changed this in 1993: the Vigna Pedale was the first single-varietal Nero di Troia in the world. Since then, it has been the flagship of the winery – and has left the Gambero Rosso with no choice but to award it the highest rating eight times in a row up to the current 2019 vintage.

Costamolino brings Sardinia's characterful clarity to the glass – a typical and very popular Vermentino that promises freshness and depth in equal measure. The grapes ripen on limestone and clay-rich hillsides around Selegas, where the sea breeze and sun create perfect ripening conditions. After gentle pressing and temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, the wine rests for several weeks on the fine lees – for elegance without weight and finesse without edge.

Three letters, a whole story: BIP stands for "Benjamin Ingham Palermo". The Englishman came to Sicily in 1806 – not as a tourist, but as an entrepreneur with vision. He followed in the footsteps of John Woodhouse, but surpassed him by far: Ingham built up a trading empire that shipped Marsala all over the world and left a lasting mark on the city. Pellegrino still preserves his archive today – 110 volumes of Sicilian economic history. Pellegrino dedicates its elegant Oro Riserva to this man. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, from sandy coastal soils between Marsala and Petrosino. The fermentation is stopped with an acquavite aged in oak for at least five years – a detail that stacks depth upon depth. Then: more than 48 months in large oak barrels, a further six months in barriques. The 2013 is a wine that has clearly benefited from time.

The classic from the heart of Chianti Classico: Brolio combines the excellent drinkability of a young Chianti Classico with a complex, complete structure. The vineyards grow on the historic Castello di Brolio between 280 and 480 metres above sea level on five representative soil types – from sandstone to galestro and marine sediments. Intense ruby red colour. Fresh, floral nose with notes of chinotto, violets and mimosa, leading to fruity nuances of black cherries and sweet mint. Velvety and complex on the palate with great harmony, elegant structure and a long, mineral final. A textbook Chianti Classico from a historic terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

The name comes from the red autumn leaves of the Lambrusco Salamino vines – a picture that the hills south of Reggio Emilia paint anew every year. Lambrusco Salamino, Lambrusco Marani and Ancellotta – three indigenous varieties, all from Reggiano, all with a long history on these medium-textured, deep soils. Fermented in steel, Charmat method, matured dry.

A typical Grillo variety from the western half of Sicily, the grapes come from vines on calcareous soil at medium altitude near Salemi. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with a greenish tinge. Ripe yellow fruit, some grapefruit, honeydew melon and a hint of salty sea breeze on the nose. The 2024 is clear and juicy on the palate, with well-integrated acidity, a fine extract sweetness, some lime zest and noticeable minerality on the finish. The ageing in stainless steel preserves freshness and purity. A characterful, Mediterranean white wine with restrained elegance – goes perfectly with antipasti, grilled fish or summer vegetable dishes. SUPERIORE.DE

Only one wine ever bears the name of the estate – and there is a reason for this. The Montecucco Rosso Riserva is the centrepiece of production: the wine that most directly expresses the philosophy of the estate. Italian passion meets Swiss precision – is how the Tipa Bertarelli family itself describes its approach. In the glass, this is convincing every year anew. 80% Sangiovese, 10% Ciliegiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon – grapes from vineyards on sandstone, marl and clay at 300 metres. Spontaneous fermentation on natural yeast in temperature-controlled steel tanks, followed by 16 months of ageing: the Sangiovese in 40-hectolitre oak barrels, Ciliegiolo and Cabernet in 500-litre French oak Liters.