Bisci

Grandmother Rosa would be proud: the brothers Giuseppe and Pierino Bisci dedicated this pale pink-coloured wine to the matriarch of their family – a loving tribute to the generation that laid the foundations for Bisci's success. While the winery has been world-famous for its legendary Verdicchio wines since 1972, "A Nonna Rosa" shows a rarely seen facet of Marche: elegant rosé vinification from Sangiovese and Merlot from those two hectares that are not planted with the main grape variety. In the hills between Macerata and Ancona, at an altitude of 320 to 370 metres, the red grapes thrive on calcareous clay soils – the former sea basin that also characterises Verdicchio's minerality.

Bisci not only produces excellent Verdicchio, but also very appealing Rosso, which is now made from 100% Merlot. With the best value wine in the Marche winery's range, it has achieved a great success: Fascinating aromas of red berries, precious wood and herbs, with a subtle, smoky component in the background. Precise and taut on the palate, with a wonderful primary fruity core, framed by liquorice and a dried bouquet of Mediterranean herbs. A warm red for the unusual days of the week. SUPERIORE.DE

Italy connoisseur and wine critic Ian D'Agata writes about the grape variety in his book "Native Wine Grapes of Italy": "Verdicchio is arguably Italy's greatest indigenous white grape variety. This statement may come as a surprise to those who have only tasted neutral or watery Verdicchio wines, sometimes even bottled in incredible amphora-shaped bottles."

In the hills between Macerata and Ancona, Bisci's red wines are made from the modest 1.5 hectares of Sangiovese and Merlot that have complemented the portfolio of the legendary Verdicchio specialists since the very beginning. The Villa Castiglioni 2019 combines 80% Sangiovese with 20% Merlot in a sophisticated cuvée that expresses the warm terroir of the Marche region. After manual harvesting, the wine is macerated for 15 days in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with daily pumping over, followed by twelve months of ageing partly in oak barrels and partly in steel.

The quality of Italian white wines has risen sharply in the last 20 years, and this also applies to Verdicchio. There are still quite a few bad old-fashioned wines, but the good ones can be a revelation. The region around Matelica in particular has made Verdicchio famous, as the best representatives of its type come from here - and mostly from the higher vineyards: complex, mineral, fresh and long-lasting.

It was December 1998 when a customer knocked on Giuseppe Bisci's door and asked for "vino d'annata" – young wine, drinkable immediately. But Bisci only sold his Verdicchio after at least two years of ageing. Giuseppe sent the customer away, but the encounter stayed with him. The high-altitude limestone soils of Matelica, where the Apennines rise majestically into the sky, did not produce simple everyday wines – they were capable of much more! The continental climate with sun-drenched days and icy cold mountain nights gave the Verdicchio an intensity, minerality and acid backbone that allowed it to age for decades – something almost unheard of in Italian white wine. That same day, Giuseppe turned to his cellar master Aroldo Bellelli: "Let's make a wine for the next person who asks for young wine – so that we can tell him: We make Riserva, and it will only be released after seven years!"