The Wine Advocate

In Neive, where the hills of Barbaresco gently undulate towards the horizon, the Pola family has been running the Fontanabianca winery since 1969. What Franco Pola started back then with the first bottle of Barbaresco Bordini is continued today by his son Aldo and grandson Matteo with the same conviction: quality is only created where the wine authentically reflects the terroir. On the limestone and clay soils of the municipality of Neive, 250 metres above sea level, the autochthonous grape varieties of Piedmont thrive in a temperate climate: Nebbiolo for the great Barbaresco wines, Dolcetto for uncomplicated pleasure and Barbera for the powerful elegance that has made this variety the region's most sophisticated popular grape.

A Greco with clear origins: Daltavilla reflects the extraordinary terroir of Tufo with striking precision and elegance. The calcareous tufa soils of the high altitudes give this wine mineral depth and fresh structure. The 2024 vintage is characterised by ripe, clean grapes that were able to ripen particularly aromatically thanks to cool evenings during the ripening phase. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with a golden green hue. The nose smells of yellow fruits such as almond zest, warm lemon and white peach, complemented by floral notes and a subtle smoky flavour in the background. Juicy and dry on the palate, with harmonious acidity and elegant fruit, carried by a spicy mineral note that leads into the long, slightly salty finish. Daltavilla stands for clear origin and stylistic purity – a Greco that combines terroir and style and reveals the soul of a great appellation. SUPERIORE.DE

Zisola is the Tuscan dream of the Mazzei family in the south of Sicily. The winery's bestseller is made from 100% Nero d'Avola from traditional Alberello vines near Noto, where chalky soils and proximity to the sea balance the natural exuberance of this indigenous grape variety with freshness and elegance. The Marchesi Mazzei, one of Italy's most historic winegrowing families with over 600 years of tradition, have been continuing their Sicilian project since 2003. 24 hectares of vineyards surround the historic bagli of the 50-hectare tenuta with a view of the baroque UNESCO World Heritage Site of Noto. Hand-picked and fermented for 14-16 days at 26-28°C, the wine matures for 10 months in French oak barrels (33% new).

A tribute to St Mauritius, patron saint of the small hamlet of Söll above Tramin – this is how the name for this characterful Pinot Blanc from the highest vineyards of the traditional winery came about. Between 400 and 600 metres above sea level, where the vines thrive on calcareous clay soil with gravel, the extreme temperature fluctuations between sunny days and cool Alpine nights shape the unmistakably "cool" character of this elegant South Tyrolean white wine.

When an artist founds a winery, the spirit of this artist wafts right into the last cellar room. The Brio label shows a detail from a fresco by Sandro Chia: chessboard, violin, clock. Existence, soul, time. An unusually serious statement for an entry-level wine. The wine behind it lives up to it. Sangiovese from the Scansano vineyards of Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte – young vines on volcanic soils, close to the sea, cool nights. A few months in wooden barrels, then bottle ageing.

Pinot Grigio is sometimes mass-produced in northern Italy. Millions of bottles, pale style, interchangeable. And then there is the Cantina Terlan, alongside a few other serious winegrowers. At 270 to 350 metres, on the gently sloping porphyry slopes around Terlan, the Ruländer – as its old, more appropriate name – tells a different story. Hand-picked, gentle pressing, slow fermentation in steel, 5–7 months on the fine lees: a vinification that gives the grape variety room to show itself.

Pian di Nova embodies a sophisticated blend of 75% Syrah and 25% Sangiovese, which combines the international vigour of the Syrah grape with the lively fruitiness of Tuscan Sangiovese. It represents a new generation of Tuscan red wines that harmoniously balance tradition and innovation. The hand-picked grapes come from organically cultivated vineyards at the foot of Monte Pratomagno, where loamy-sandy soils at an altitude of 200 metres offer optimal drainage. After cooling to 5°C at night, the grape varieties are vinified separately: two days of cold maceration, ten days of controlled fermentation at 25-28°C, followed by a further 20 days of skin maceration. Six months of ageing in Allier oak barriques, one month in steel tanks and a further six months of bottle ageing complete this elegant blend.

A circular forest sits enthroned on the highest point of the vineyard, and inside it rests an Etruscan tomb – over 2,500 years old. Al Passo, "at the passage", is what they call this place, from where the view extends as far as the Torre del Mangia in Siena. Here, where past and present meet, the estate's most popular cuvée is created: equal parts Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown on the silty-clayey limestone soils of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Double selection, 20 days on the skins, then 14 months in French oak – six of which on the fine lees, which gives the wine its silky texture.

Here is one of the most beautiful interpretations of the white Carricante grape variety, matured for six months on the fine lees. Alta Mora Bianco comes from vineyards on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where Carricante vines thrive at an altitude of 600 to 900 metres – directly on volcanic rock that is rich in minerals and ash. The cool altitude, combined with intense sunlight and strong day-night fluctuations, characterises this wine with an unmistakable freshness, structure and salty tension. The wine is vinified purely in stainless steel in order to bring the purity of the grape variety and the terroir unadulterated into the glass.

Il Falcone is a famous Riserva from the heart of the DOCG Castel del Monte, named after the famous hunting falcon of Emperor Frederick II. The Nero di Troia and Montepulciano grape varieties come from the best hillside vineyards at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres. After around 14 months of ageing in large wooden barrels and barriques, it presents a dark ruby colour with garnet-red reflections in the glass. Ripe blackberry, black cherry, tobacco leaf, some leather and balsamic herbs on the nose. Powerful yet finely balanced on the palate, with robust tannins, mineral tension and a spicy, long final. A serious, historic wine with elegance, structure and clear provenance. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1987, Castello Romitorio was not yet a winery. Just a castle, an artist and an idea. Sandro Chia bought grapes from his friend and cellar master Franco Martini and had the first wine vinified – even before a single vine of his own had ripened. That was the Romitorio: not a reaction, but an attitude. Today it grows at Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte in Scansano, 25 kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, at an altitude of 170 metres. The soils are of Pliocene origin – galestro, clay, Alberese, interspersed with fossils and shell remains, remnants of a primeval seabed. Petit Verdot and Syrah give the wine its profile: fermentation in steel, ageing in cement and oak.

Sodale presents Merlot in its clearest and most charming form: This single-varietal representative grows on calcareous hillsides around Montefiascone – where fresh evening air promotes sophistication and elegance. The 2022 vintage is characterised by optimally ripe harvest, while the cool nights have allowed the vines to retain balance and a fine acid structure. Brilliant ruby red in the glass with a light violet rim. The bouquet seduces with aromas of blackcurrant, ripe plum, dark cherry and a hint of floral violet notes, accompanied by delicate hints of herbs. Juicy and harmonious on the palate with velvety tannins, lingering fruit sweetness and a lively texture. The subtle acidity lends freshness and encourages drinking, while the elegant, spicy finish whets the appetite for more. Not an opulent statement, but a stylish Merlot with balance, flow and character. Authentic, charming and typically Cotarella. SUPERIORE.DE

In school philosophy, A quo denotes the starting point of an argument – the place from which everything else begins. Fabio Chiarelotto has dedicated a wine to this Latin thought. And what he meant was: Montepeloso begins here. The Swiss national with a Tuscan mother bought the estate in Suvereto, near Bolgheri – one of the hottest wine-growing regions in Tuscany. What others drown in heat, he wanted to translate into elegance. He replanted, pruned, worked biodynamically and bet that it was possible to make wines that glow instead of sweat on these limestone-rich, fossilised clay and silex soils. 2024 shows that he was right. The blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malvasia Nera and other varieties is fermented in steel, then matured for twelve months in used barriques – no wood to cover the fruit, just one that polishes delicately. Bottled unfiltered.

In 1872, Bettino Ricasoli wrote down his famous formula – the blueprint of what Chianti Classico should be: Sangiovese as the heart, structure as the backbone, terroir as the argument. The fact that his descendants have named this wine after him is not nostalgia. It is a commitment. Brolio Bettino is a single-varietal Sangiovese – and that is intentional. No blending, no corrective. The grapes grow on five geological formations: Sandstone, Galestro, Alberese, marine sediments and old river terraces – a terroir mosaic that combines depth and complexity in one glass. Fermentation in small stainless steel tanks, 18 months of ageing in large barrels: classic, without compromise. The 2022 vintage was capricious – mild winter, dry spring, a hailstorm in July, but it ended on a mild note.

Sparkling light yellow colour with green reflections. Clear, very broad aroma of apple, citrus, meadow herbs and pear fruit, rich on the palate and with the powerful, taut freshness and invigorating fruit acidity typical of the high altitudes of the Venosta Valley. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine with history, personality and depth of character: Centovie is the centrepiece of a long-term project at the organically farmed Tenuta Centovie near Roseto degli Abruzzi. The 35 hectares of vineyards on the southern slope near Montipagano, with a view of the Gran Sasso, produce elegant Montepulciano, among other things – equipped with traditional training systems (pergola in long tendone and short cordon training) and an optimal microclimate.

Forcole is produced in a surprisingly small quantity for a Chianti Classico - just 15,000 bottles. The bouquet begins with a slender texture and aromas of wild berries, sour cherries, pressed violets and sweet earth. Supple, generous and inviting on the palate, it captures all the natural intensity of the vintage. Its attractive silky tannins and the rather darker and crispy-cool Sangiovese flavour profile of the Panzano region make it a great soloist as well as food companion. SUPERIORE.DE

Montegrilli is a declaration of love to the Langhe terroir and a deliberately chosen distance from the house's Barolo style: no woody notes, instead the focus is on pure Nebbiolo purity. The grapes come from a vineyard of just 1.4 hectares in the Ravera zone near Novello. They ripen on sandy, calcareous soil under the sun of the southern slopes, in a microcosm that ensures immediate, elegant freshness. After manual harvesting, fermentation takes place with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, followed by eight months of ageing in steel.

When you start afresh on Etna, you don't start small. In 2016, Davide Rosso acquired fourteen hectares in Solicchiata, at the foot of the extinct small crater Montedolce on the north-eastern slope of the volcano – at 730 to 750 metres, in a microclimate that immediately brought to mind the Langhe precision with which he grew up: cool nights, strong temperature amplitudes, mineral-rich lava sand soils, constant ventilation. "Contrade Nuove" – the new sites – stands for the estate's younger Carricante vines, cultivated as Alberello in a north-north-easterly exposure. They represent a different tone to the old vines of the main cuvée: livelier, more direct, with a freshness and accessibility that makes the terroir of Montedolce immediately recognisable. 100% Carricante. Spontaneous fermentation at low temperatures in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days. Then five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage – no wood, no intervention, just the volcano with its soil and climate.

What the Carricante is for white wines, the Nerello Mascalese is for red wines on Etna: a grape variety that is not so clearly moulded by any other terroir in the world. Thin-skinned, light-coloured, low in tannin – fragile at first glance. At second glance: precise to the bone. The younger Nerello Mascalese vines from the Contrada Montedolce form the basis of the Contrade Nuove – direct, accessible, with the fresh character that the northern slope climate at 730 to 750 metres almost inevitably produces. The warm summer of 2022 gave the wine a little more texture and dark fruit than usual – the timely rain in autumn kept it fresh. Davide Rosso vinifies with a kit that is unusual by Etna standards: amphorae for oxygen contact, conical oak barrels and stainless steel. Giovanni's deliberate way of breaking the reduction tendency of the Nerello without sacrificing fruit and minerality.

The vines for Pinot Grigio Punggl thrive on soils with a high clay content south of Margreid. Bright straw yellow in colour with a brilliant core. Spicy, fruity aromas with notes of nuts, honey and fresh flowers lend it elegance and charm. Full-bodied and mineral flavour with a juicy structure and long finish. SUPERIORE.DE