Nebbiolo

Since 1897, Nino Negri has been the house that represents Valtellina to the outside world – and the Quadrio is one of its most reliable ambassadors. The name refers to the 15th century Castello Quadrio di Chiuro, the ancestral seat of the winery, named after Stefano Quadrio, once governor of Valtellina. Today, cellar master Danilo Drocco, a Nebbiolo purist from Alba, manages the winemaking process with a Piedmontese view of the Alps – and brings precisely this tension to the wine. Quadrio is a cuvée made from 90% Chiavennasca – the local name for Nebbiolo – and 10% Merlot, whose terraced fruit gently balances out the alpine austerity. The grapes come from south to south-east exposed steep slopes at 350–500 metres, on sandy limestone soils behind dry stone walls, harvested by hand as they have always been. Maceration in steel for ten days, followed by 18 months in large Slavonian and French oak barrels.

Nebbiolo is red wine. Always. Barolo, Barbaresco, Valtellina Superiore – the great reds of the north. And yet: in the vineyards of the Alpi Retiche, on the steep terraces of Valtellina between 350 and 600 metres, Nino Negri makes a white wine from this grape variety. Blanc de Noir – with a depth and independence that shows what Nebbiolo can do when you take away the colour and let the minerality do the talking. The secret lies in the soil. The geological diversity of the Alpi Retiche is the result of the collision between the African and European continental plates – a collision that formed the Alps and left behind rocks of exceptional minerality. These soils give the Nebbiolo Bianco its unmistakable character: elegant, mineral, with a complexity that is surprising for a white wine from this region.

In the vineyards between La Morra and Verduno, where Matteo Ascheri has been capturing the essence of Nebbiolo for generations, a wine is created that shows all the elegance of this royal grape variety without the heaviness and complexity of its big Barolo brothers. Here, on the characteristic marl-clay soils of the Langhe, the Nebbiolo vines benefit from an ideal south-south-west exposure at an altitude of 350 metres. Matteo's proven philosophy – to let the terroir speak for itself without overpowering it with excessive technology – is also evident in this Nebbiolo: gentle vinification in stainless steel tanks preserves the freshness and elegance typical of the variety, while a short refinement in Slavonian oak barrels gives the wine a subtle structure without masking its natural finesse.

"Sogni al Campo" – dreams in the field. A name that reveals what drives this co-operative: 180 Piedmontese winegrowers who work together to cultivate around 300 hectares in the best vineyards in the region and make wine in the ultra-modern winery in Barolo. What unites them is the belief that co-operation does not have to mean compromise, but concentration on the essentials. This Langhe Nebbiolo shows how cleverly Piedmont handles its grape varieties: 85 per cent Nebbiolo provides structure and those typical aromas of cherry, violet and a hint of tar. But the 15 per cent Barbera is the secret – they bring juiciness and a lively acidity that makes the Nebbiolo more accessible in its youth without taking away its soul. After traditional fermentation, the wine matures for twelve months in barriques, which give it a subtle spiciness and finely polished tannins.

The Valtellina Superiore DOCG has five subzones – maroggia, Sassella, Grumello, Valgella and Inferno. The name of the fifth says it all: Inferno – hell. Not as a threat, but as a description. Because here, on the steepest and sunniest terraces in the entire Valle, there is a microclimate that is unrivalled in northern Italy. Rocky outcrops of light-coloured quartz rock protrude from the ground, reflecting the sun's rays during the day and releasing the stored heat during the cool nights. The steep slope allows the light to hit the ground vertically – maximum sunlight, maximum ripeness, maximum expression of the polyphenols in Nebbiolo. By the way: Nebbiolo is called Chiavennasca here – the local name for a grape variety that has developed independently in Valtellina over the centuries. Vineyards at 350 to 550 metres, southern exposure, strenuous manual harvesting on inhospitable terraces. In the cellar: fermentation at controlled temperatures, maturation in small oak barrels.

Nebbiolo is the king of Piedmont and Neive is one of its finest addresses. Those who produce Barbaresco here know what this grape variety is capable of. The Langhe Nebbiolo from Fontanabianca is the entry into this world: the same calcareous clay soils at 300 metres, the same climate, the same family – but younger vines, shorter maturation, greater accessibility. Vines 12 to 15 years old, Guyot training, fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature, traditional ageing with brief contact with wood. Not a wine that requires patience – one that shows what Nebbiolo from Neive has to say even in its young form. Matteo Pola, Aldo's son, now bears the oenological signature of the house and has given the Langhe Nebbiolo a contemporary, elegant character.

The Bertolino family has been producing this Nebbiolo for over 50 years – and old adverts from the early years show what has never changed: deep ruby red, delicate violet perfume, a wine that was intended from the outset as a storage wine. Not as a substitute for Barolo, but as an independent statement about a grape variety that appears in many guises in Piedmont. The grapes come from Castellinaldo in the Roero – the area west of the Tanaro, which is known for its particularly elegant Nebbioli. Here, on sandier, calcareous soils, the Nebbiolo develops a finesse and accessibility that distinguishes it from the more structured Barolo style. Hand-picked in crates, last week of October. Maceration in steel at a controlled temperature. Then 18 months in 25-hectolitre oak barrels, followed by further bottle ageing before release.

A Rosato with a name that has a person behind it. Rosy Pio was the granddaughter of the founder – and the grandmother of Federica and Cesare, the fifth generation of the house. The Pio Cesare family carries its history in its wines. This one bears it in its name. The decision to vinify Nebbiolo as a rosé was a matter of the heart: a small addition of Syrah, their own vineyards in Treiso in the Barbaresco region, various exposures and locations. Early harvest in small crates after strict selection in the vineyard, gentle pressing with short maceration. Fermentation partly in stainless steel, partly in non-new French oak barriques. One month on the lees.

The mulberry tree gave it its name. In Valtellina, it stood between the rows of vines for centuries, providing shade, bearing fruit and forming part of the landscape. Today it has become rare – but its name lives on in this wine, as a silent homage to the old mountain agriculture of this region. 100% Chiavennasca – the local name for the Nebbiolo of Valtellina – from vineyards in different subzones. What distinguishes the Mazér from the classic zone typologies is a small detail with a big effect: a small proportion of the grapes are dried for a few days. The concentrated must from these dried berries is added to the main wine – a touch of the Sforzato principle (appassimento), enough to soften the tannins and weave dark fruit flavours deeper into the bouquet. The result is a Valtellina Superiore with the freshness and purity of the mountains – and a velvety accessibility that makes it enjoyable earlier.

"Le Tense" is made from grapes that come exclusively from the Sassella DOCG subzone. During Swiss rule (1512 - 1797), the best vineyards were "secured" by armed guards, which is how it got its name. They became the most famous vineyards in the appellation. The selection of vines produces a wine that expresses the character of the soil: old stones and rocks that represent the terroir of Sassella. Nebbiolo from Sassella produces elegant aromas and delicate, harmonious flavours that are typical of the alpine reds of Valtellina.

In 1787, Thomas Jefferson described Nebbiolo as fresh, slightly sparkling and smooth. Gian Battista Croce, court goldsmith at Casa Savoia in Turin, noted exactly the same thing back in 1606. Giuseppe Vajra came across these protocols during historical research – and understood immediately: Nebbiolo was not always the way it is drunk today. There was a time before long maceration, before large barrels, before Barolo. Claré J.C. – "J.C." stands for Juliette Colbert, the woman who revolutionised the vinification of Barolo in the 19th century – is a time capsule there. 100% Nebbiolo from young vineyards on both Langhe soils: Tortonian and Serravallian. Short maceration, gentle extraction, part fermented with whole grapes, maturation in stainless steel tanks until bottling in February. Nebbiolo in its earliest, freshest form.

Nebbiolo beyond Barolo: Tovasacco comes from the estate's own vineyards around Canale, Priocca and Alba, where the sandy soils of the Roero give the great Piedmontese wine its very own character – less austere, more accessible, but by no means superficial. Manual harvesting leads to a complex selection process: First, the grapes are sorted on a vibrating table and cooled with carbonic acid snow, followed by a second selection of the individual berries after destemming. Mash fermentation takes place over 20 days with délestage and submerged cap, followed by maturation in oak barrels for twelve months.

Anyone familiar with the nine vineyard reserves of the Produttori del Barbaresco will know that this co-operative's entry is no concession. Langhe Nebbiolo is made from young vines that are spread across the entire appellation – the same soils, the same families, the same care. What sets it apart from its big brothers is not intention, but time. After two years of prolonged drought, the 2024 vintage began with a refreshingly wet winter that replenished the water reserves in the soil. Spring came early and mild; bud break began around 20 March. What followed was an even, well-tempered growing season – ideal for a Nebbiolo that can be drunk earlier but still has something to say. Vinification in concrete vats at 28 degrees, 20 days of maceration with pumping over twice a day, followed by five months in large oak barrels – this is not a compromise, but a concept.

Smooth Nebbiolo that shows the clear signature of Giovanni Rosso: This Langhe Nebbiolo presents itself in a bright garnet red with a ruby-coloured rim as an elegant companion with a presence of origin. The naturally cultivated vines are rooted in calcareous and clayey soils around Serralunga d'Alba. The bouquet reveals delicate notes of violets, red wild berries, white rose and a hint of dried herbs – wonderfully balanced between freshness and depth. The palate reveals a fine, supple body: lively acidity, gentle tannins and a fine mineral vein that accompanies the finish with clarity and elegance. A young Nebbiolo with youthful agility and plenty of charm – a lively picture of the terroir in youthful form. SUPERIORE.DE

The concept is as simple as it is ingenious: Christoph Künzli wanted to create a Nebbiolo that is fresh and easy to drink, whose beguiling sweetness and richness is convincing right up to the last sip and which nevertheless represents the Alto Piemonte in a typical and unmistakable way. The convincing result is fresh, with a rich bouquet of berries and flowers, crisp and velvety in the mouth. Be sure to enjoy it a little cooler and you will be surprised how quickly the bottle is empty! SUPERIORE.DE

Gentle in flavour, powerful in body. La Casa in Collina is Vite Colte's charming statement on Barbaresco. Created from traditional grape variety assemblages from old terroirs in a light southern exposure, this wine combines nuance with poise: around 20 days of slow fermentation and a year in large oak barrels create a balance that allows depth without sacrificing elegance. In the glass, the colour is a rich ruby red that thickens to a fine garnet at the edges. The nose opens with a refined profile: ripe plum, red berry and violet, accompanied by coffee powder, tobacco leaf and a hint of fine woody spices, subtly intense but never overwhelming. Lively and carefully structured on the palate, with well-embedded tannins, fresh acidity and dense fruit. The big wood is noticeable, but nuanced. The finish is long, savoury and pleasantly round, with a hint of subtle vanilla and juicy cherry. This Barbaresco is confident and expressive, yet approachable enough to enjoy today. Optimal value for money – good potential available. SUPERIORE.DE

Michele Chiarlos Principe is a red wine made from Nebbiolo grapes from two highly symbolic growing regions, Roero and Barbaresco. Subtle and intense at the same time, it has a character that tends towards a more drinkable profile, while retaining the elegance and structure typical of the grape variety. Bright ruby red colour. Enchanting nose of sour cherries, plums, but also gingerbread spice and some dried meat as well as cold smoke and mocha. On the palate, notes of violets and red fruit with a delicate spice vein. Well-integrated tannins, juicy finish. SUPERIORE.DE

An honest statement from Piedmont: This pure Nebbiolo comes from young vines (both Tortonese and Serravallese terroir) in higher altitudes around Barolo, Novello and Sinio. Following natural standards and traditional vinification, it reflects the purity of the variety in its purest form. The ageing in stainless steel with a minimal amount of neutral wood emphasises this pure fruit and the origin without any masking.

The Alto Piemonte is a real insider tip. Between Biella and the foothills of Monte Rosa lies Lessona – a small DOC, once just as famous as Barolo, then almost forgotten for decades when the textile industry emptied the hills and left the vineyards to run wild. Paolo De Marchi, who had made his mark in Tuscany with Isole & Olena Chianti Classico, returned to the family's homeland in 1999 with his son Luca and began what some people simply call reconstruction – and what is in reality a long, determined battle for a forgotten wine region.

2023 marks a quiet turning point in Castiglione Falletto: Eugenio Palumbo, at Vietti's side since 2011 and assistant to Luca Currado for many years, now has sole responsibility as cellar master – and the Perbacco is perhaps his most eloquent statement. This Langhe Nebbiolo brings together grapes from up to fifteen Barolo Cru vineyards and selected Barbaresco parcels in a single glass. Each parcel is vinified separately, matured for two years in oak, then Palumbo selects the lots for the assemblage – the rest matures further to become Barolo Castiglione.