G.D. Vajra

In 1968, a Turin father sent his fifteen-year-old son to the countryside as a punishment – the boy had marched in student protests. The son's name was Aldo Vajra, the land was Barolo, and the punishment turned into a vocation. Three years later, the winery was the first organic winery in Piedmont. Today, Aldo and Milena and their three children Giuseppe, Francesca and Isidoro run forty hectares in the highest vineyards in the municipality of Barolo – and prove with this Moscato that a house that cultivates legendary Nebbiolo crus such as Bricco delle Viole also takes the supposedly light wines seriously.

A vibrant and by no means run-of-the-mill expression of Piedmont: this Dolcetto comes from vineyards on calcareous soils around Vergne, from vines between 25 and 60 years old. The grapes were harvested by hand from late September through to the start of autumn, followed by a relatively long alcoholic maceration with careful temperature control. The wine was aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks.

Piedmont in a bottle – not a mere miniature, but the very essence. Nebbiolo brings structure and bright cherry fruit, Barbera contributes juicy acidity, Dolcetto rounds it off with soft tannins, and in the background, Freisa and Albarossa whisper of the diversity of grape varieties in a region that is far more than just Barolo and Barbaresco. The Vajras call this wine "a hug from Piedmont", and that is exactly how it feels: warm, approachable, without ever becoming insubstantial. The grapes come from younger vines, are vinified separately and only then blended into the cuvée – a process that demands precision where others merely feign simplicity.

In the 1980s, Luigi Baudana planted Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc on his slopes in Serralunga d'Alba – at a time when white wine had no great tradition in the Langhe. That took courage. This is precisely why the wine is now called Dragon and bears the dragon by illustrator Gianni Gallo on the label: a symbol of courage that the Vajra family incorporated into its own history after taking over the Baudana estate. Today, the Dragon is no longer a simple Bianco. Nascetta – the most fascinating indigenous white wine variety of the Langhe, rescued and cultivated by Vajra – gives the blend its unmistakable character. A touch of Riesling: the signature of an estate that sees curiosity as an attitude. Fermentation and ageing in steel for approx. 6 months.

In 1787, Thomas Jefferson described Nebbiolo as fresh, slightly sparkling and smooth. Gian Battista Croce, court goldsmith at Casa Savoia in Turin, noted exactly the same thing back in 1606. Giuseppe Vajra came across these protocols during historical research – and understood immediately: Nebbiolo was not always the way it is drunk today. There was a time before long maceration, before large barrels, before Barolo. Claré J.C. – "J.C." stands for Juliette Colbert, the woman who revolutionised the vinification of Barolo in the 19th century – is a time capsule there. 100% Nebbiolo from young vineyards on both Langhe soils: Tortonian and Serravallian. Short maceration, gentle extraction, part fermented with whole grapes, maturation in stainless steel tanks until bottling in February. Nebbiolo in its earliest, freshest form.

A charismatic representative from the Alba region: this Barbera reflects the diversity of the Vajra vineyards – a spirited expression of the grape variety, vinified with attention to detail and many years of biodynamic expertise. Maturation in stainless steel preserves the varietal purity and natural flavours and ensures an invigorating freshness. The colour in the glass is a bright ruby red with a violet hue. An elegant bouquet of fresh cherries, fine spicy notes and a floral touch on the nose – including delicate violet accents. On the palate, it reveals a juicy fruit structure, supported by a balanced, lively acidity and softly framed tannins. The finish is slightly spicy and persistent with an elegant aftertaste. A Piedmontese all-rounder for everyday enjoyment: charming, clear as a bell and easy to drink – a stylish statement for uncomplicated enjoyment! SUPERIORE.DE

Coste & Fossati is not only the estate's finest Dolcetto, but also a carefully nurtured project: Dolcetto clones selected by Aldo Vajra from old vines between 1979 and 1985 and grafted onto rootstock in the Coste di Vergne and Fossati vineyards. The vines – with their characteristic red foliage – were re-grafted as a distinct genetic line, forming a cornerstone of the estate's enriching diversity. The grapes were carefully harvested once the stems had changed colour, typically in mid-September, followed by approximately 25 days of maceration.

An authentic expression of Piedmont: this pure Nebbiolo comes from young vines (from both the Tortona and Serravallo terroirs) at higher altitudes around Barolo, Novello and Sinio. Produced in a completely natural style and following traditional vinification methods, it reflects the purity of the grape variety in its purest form. Ageing in stainless steel, with a minimal proportion in neutral oak, emphasises this pure fruit and its origin without any masking.

A captivating Pinot Nero with a poetic expression of the Langhe terroir: strictly selected grapes from organically farmed vineyards are vinified with the utmost care. After manual harvesting and fermentation, the wine matures for 18 months in tonneaux, which give it structure without masking its freshness. The ageing process combines depth with elegant finesse – an art that Vajra has mastered for many years.

This wine bears the small print name Viola delle Viole, although its fruit comes from the Bricco delle Viole and Bricco Bertone vineyards, two sites with different soil types, one of which provides structure and the other aromatic purity. Opens with a dark, almost impenetrable appearance. Powerful aromas of blackberry jam and preserved cherries unfold on the nose. You can feel its warmth and richness and there is no way around it. It is a super-sized Barbera that goes one better in terms of extraction and intensity. The finish is almost sweet, followed by good acidity. It shows great aromatic perfection, length and a very accentuated style. SUPERIORE.DE

There are said to be vineyards in Piedmont that do not like Nebbiolo. The Vigneto Fossati in the highest location in the municipality of Barolo is one of them: gravelly-sandy soil, morning sun exposure, 420 to 450 metres. Aldo Vajra planted it with Riesling in 1985 – out of conviction, which sounded rather provocative at the time. A second vineyard chapter was added: the Cascina Bertoni in Sinio, exposed to the north-east, calcareous and homogeneous. Pétracine, whose name means "Riesling" in Piedmontese, comes from both vineyards – and at the same time sounds like stone and roots. The clonal vines come from the Rhine, the Moselle, the Palatinate and Alsace: austere German minerality meets Alsatian creaminess and Piedmontese terroir. Gentle pressing, short cold clarification, 15 to 20 days fermentation in steel, ageing in stainless steel until spring – no intervention that does not serve the precision of this rare wine.

Kyè – Piedmontese for "chi è?", who is that? The question says it all. Freisa was once one of Piedmont's most important grape varieties, but then it fell into obscurity, supplanted by Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto. It is no coincidence that Aldo Vajra, of all people, took it seriously again in 1980: in 2004, genetic research confirmed what the old winegrowers had long suspected – Freisa is Nebbiolo's closest relative, and is thought to be one of its parent varieties. The Vajras have been bottling a dry Freisa since 1989 and have thereby sparked a renaissance that is now setting a precedent. The grapes for the Kyè come from Aldo's own selezione massal dating from 1980, planted in San Ponzio at the lower edge of the legendary Bricco delle Viole – the vineyard closest to the estate. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, after which the wine matures for 26 months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

Albe! ... the poetic name of this Barolo refers to the sky at sunrise, as experienced from the estate's various terroirs: Coste di Vergne, Fossati and La Volta. These high-altitude vineyards each produce slightly different dawns, which is symbolically reflected in the harmony of the cuvée. The grapes come from young but mature Nebbiolo vines and combine the nuances of each plot into a fluid, elegant expression. The grapes were carefully hand-harvested; each plot was vinified separately and only blended into the cuvée in the spring before bottling. Ageing takes place over approximately 36 months in large Slavonian oak barrels (40–75 hl) with annual racking – a process that fosters depth and harmony.

Whilst the Cerretta and Baudana cru wines each showcase a single facet of Serralunga d'Alba, the Barolo del Comune brings together the full spectrum of the estate: Cerretta faces south-east on iron-rich Lequio clay, Baudana faces south-west on a mixture of Lequio and Sant'Agata marl, and Costabella faces south to south-east on purer Sant'Agata soil. Many of the vines in Cerretta and Baudana were planted as early as 1990; Costabella was added later as a third element. The idea behind this is deliberately democratic: different exposures, altitudes and soils are intended to blend in the glass to form a balanced whole, rather than a single defining characteristic. Fermentation takes place spontaneously in open wooden vats, with a maceration period of 20 to 25 days, before the wine matures in large Slavonian oak barrels and is only released for sale after further bottle ageing.

Coste di Rose, covering one and a half hectares, is the smallest of Vajra's single-vineyard plots, named after the wild roses that once lined the steep slope in Vergne. Situated at an altitude of 310 to 350 metres, this narrow plot lies on sandy, well-drained soil – significantly lighter than the heavier marl of the neighbouring Bricco delle Viole – and brings out the most fragrant and delicate qualities of the Nebbiolo grown here. The steep slope and small area allow only a limited, almost experimental production within the Vajra range. Produced as a single-varietal wine, it matures for around 36 months in large casks – a shorter period than most other crus in the cellar – a deliberate compromise in favour of freshness and aroma rather than power and tannic richness.

The latest addition to Vajra's Barolo line-up comes from a 1.5-hectare plot in Coste di Rose, a small MGA (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive) in the Barolo region. This is a steep slope at 310 metres above sea level with a high proportion of sandy soils with good drainage, whose vines and soils are cultivated close to nature. This very accessible Barolo is straightforward, forward and impresses even at a young age with its refreshing candour. A very precise bouquet of cherry, plum, liquorice, spices and menthol, followed by a broad and multi-layered fruity palate with plenty of juice and power, supportive tannins and a full, long, mineral and minty finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Novello, situated on the plateau above the valley, produces the most austere and mineral-driven expression of the entire G.D. Vajra range. Unlike the local vineyards in Vergne, Ravera lies at an altitude of 320 to 340 metres, with highly calcareous, clay-rich marl from the same Sant'Agata Formation, which lends the Nebbiolo here more structure than aroma. The south-west-facing aspect ensures a long, even ripening process on this exposed plateau. Giuseppe Vaira himself likes to describe the wine as powerful yet weightless, almost electric in its directness. This single-varietal Nebbiolo is aged for around 42 months after fermentation in large Slavonian oak botti, deliberately matured with restraint so as not to mask the powerful, multi-layered character of the vineyard.

G.D. Vajra's Ravera (whose vineyard extends over the municipalities of Novello and Barolo) is always the most angular, powerful and vertical of their collection. It comes from soils with clay and sandstone at 320 to 340 metres above sea level. This is the ideal place for wines that show both power and elegance. The tannins are sweet, but every fibre of the backbone is dense and firm. Red and purple fruits with liquorice, tar and white truffle are neatly packaged here and only reveal themselves gradually, but then with beautiful precision and straightforwardness. The final has a wonderfully long aftertaste, superb! SUPERIORE.DE

Luigi and Fiorina Baudana ran their small winery in Serralunga d'Alba for three decades, with no heirs to take over the business. Rather than accepting offers from major wine houses for their 'golden mile' wines, in 2008 they set out themselves to find a successor who would preserve their legacy, and to this end visited G.D. Vajra incognito. Aldo Vaira took over the management of the estate, whilst Luigi and Fiorina remained on board; production continues to this day in the same cellar.

Ravera is considered one of the great Grand Cru sites of Barolo – majestically situated on a south-west facing high plateau of Novello. G.D. Vajra's plots here lie at an altitude of 320 to 340 metres, where the vines are deeply rooted in the calcareous and clayey marl soils of the Sant'Agata formation. This geological mixture gives the wine its characteristic depth, firm structure and mineral signature. Ravera is famous for Barolo with cool precision, rich fruit and enormous ageing potential. The 2021 vintage offered picture-perfect conditions: a harmonious growing season with no periods of extreme heat, a long, sunny autumn with cool nights and a late, perfectly ripe harvest at the end of October. Fermentation took place gently with an extended maceration period to maximise colour, structure and aromatic finesse. The organic ageing for 30+ months in large Slavonian barrels was deliberately restrained in order to preserve the powerful but nuanced personality of the terroir unadulterated.