Cantine Due Palme

Bagnara is a village between Cellino San Marco and Campi Salentina. Limestone hills, Mediterranean scrub, figs, olive groves, the wind from the Adriatic Sea. Here, along the old "Limite dei Greci" – the historical borderline of the Greek colonies in Apulia – grows the Fiano of Due Palme. A grape variety with a long history in Salento, already known at the time of Frederick II. Hand-picked, cold maceration at 4°C for 24 hours, temperature-controlled fermentation in steel. Straw yellow in the glass, fresh. The nose opens with citrus, white peach, a hint of almond and Mediterranean herbal spice. Lively on the palate, with good acidity and a long, salty, mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The name SanGaetano tells of the co-operative tradition: in 2012, Cantine Due Palme took over the small Cooperativa San Gaetano in Lizzano in order to expand the production of Primitivo di Manduria in a targeted manner. This DOC appellation has long been recognised as one of the most important red wine denominations in Apulia – appreciated both in Italy and internationally. The Primitivo vines grow on the characteristic red-coloured soils of Manduria, whose clay-limestone structure is rich in minerals and iron oxides. These soils with their rocky limestone subsoil have a decisive influence on the character of the wine. The grapes are harvested by hand in small crates at the end of August or beginning of September when they are slightly overripe to guarantee the highest quality. After temperature-controlled fermentation, the SanGaetano matures for six months in American oak barrels – an ageing process that refines the tannins and gives the wine additional complexity.

Cantine Due Palme is one of the most successful co-operatives in southern Italy – founded in 1989 in Cellino San Marco, the cooperative now has over 1,200 members and around 3,000 hectares of vineyards between Brindisi, Lecce and Taranto. Under the management of Angelo Maci, Due Palme has developed into a pioneer of sustainable quality production, combining state-of-the-art cellar technology with traditional cultivation methods such as Alberello Pugliese. Don Cosimo epitomises the sun-drenched power of Salento. The Primitivo grapes ripen on calcareous, loamy soils that store sufficient water even in very hot weather. After a gentle harvest in mid-September, the grapes ferment at a controlled temperature in horizontal rotary fermenters before the wine matures for six months in French barriques and then comes to rest in the bottle.

Susumaniello is one of the indigenous grape varieties of Apulia that almost disappeared. Cantine Due Palme was one of the first wineries to recognise the potential of this historic variety from the Alto Salento region around Brindisi and saved it with foresight – vinified in purity to preserve its unique character. The name already reveals its speciality: "Carico come un somarello" – loaded like a donkey – refers to the exceptional fruitiness of the young vines. After around ten years, the yield drops significantly, and only then does Susumaniello produce grapes of astonishing quality. The grapes are easy to recognise: Their ink-blue coloured berries have an extremely high anthocyanin content, which is why Susumaniello was often used as a blending partner in the past to lend depth of colour to other wines. For the Serre, the grapes are harvested by hand in small crates late at the end of September, when they are slightly overripe for optimum concentration. Vinification takes place in horizontal rotary fermenters at a controlled temperature, followed by six months of ageing in French barriques.

The grapes for Ettamiano are harvested when slightly overripe, a trick that the famous winegrowers' co-operative likes to use with great flair. The variety should show as much of its origin as possible, which is why they rely on short maturation and only use French barriques that have been used several times. Intense ruby red colour with violet reflections. At first sip, Ettamiano is a Primitivo that is characterised by its pleasantness, but at no time does it pander. The glass reveals hints of ripe but lively fruit, spicy notes of cinnamon, then cocoa and liquorice. The flavour is consistent and persistent, supported by a fresh and spicy note that keeps you coming back for more. Long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

For over three decades, this Salice Salentino Riserva has been the undisputed flagship of Cantine Due Palme – and a wine that proves year after year that greatness and a co-operative structure need not be a contradiction in terms. The Tre Bicchieri of the Gambero Rosso? For Selvarossa, this has long been a subscription. No other Apulian red wine has won this top award so consistently, and at a price-pleasure ratio that even cuvées four times more expensive regularly fail to achieve. The story of Selvarossa begins shortly after the turn of the millennium, when Angelo Maci – fourth generation of an old winemaking family and founder of Due Palme – realised his vision of uncompromising quality production. What began in 1989 with fifteen members now unites over a thousand winegrowers who together cultivate 2,500 hectares of vineyards in the provinces of Brindisi, Lecce and Taranto. The name Selvarossa – "red forest" – refers to the characteristic red-coloured, clayey soils around Cellino San Marco, rich in minerals, graphite and iron oxides, which give the terroir its unmistakable character.

1943 – the year in which Angelo Maci was born in Salento. It is therefore no coincidence that this wine bears his name: The "Rosso del Fondatore" is the personal project of the founder of Due Palme, an assemblage that he oversees himself and that expresses his own standards for Puglia. Primitivo and Aglianico in equal parts – two temperaments that complement each other. The Primitivo brings dark fruit and warmth, the Aglianico structure, acidity and length. The grapes are harvested late, fermented in steel and then aged for nine months in new barriques – followed by further bottle ageing. The numbered bottles are not a marketing gimmick: they are an expression of a wine that is owed and given attention.

Selvarossa is a tribute to the autochthonous grape varieties of Salento: the Negroamaro – "niuru maru" in the dialect, "black bitter" – has been rooted in this soil for three thousand years and provides the dark, almost black depth of colour, the solid tannins and the bitter spiciness that justify its name. The Malvasia Nera provides a counterpoint of elegance and soft, velvety fruit. Both grape varieties are cultivated using the traditional Alberello system, the archaic bush training method without wire frames, which offers the vines protection from the scorching heat and naturally limits the yield. The grapes for the Selvarossa come from the oldest, most select plots and are harvested by hand in small crates when perfectly ripe, some even slightly overripe – some even slightly overripe to maximise concentration and sugar content.