Merum

The name SanGaetano tells of the co-operative tradition: in 2012, Cantine Due Palme took over the small Cooperativa San Gaetano in Lizzano in order to expand the production of Primitivo di Manduria in a targeted manner. This DOC appellation has long been recognised as one of the most important red wine denominations in Apulia – appreciated both in Italy and internationally. The Primitivo vines grow on the characteristic red-coloured soils of Manduria, whose clay-limestone structure is rich in minerals and iron oxides. These soils with their rocky limestone subsoil have a decisive influence on the character of the wine. The grapes are harvested by hand in small crates at the end of August or beginning of September when they are slightly overripe to guarantee the highest quality. After temperature-controlled fermentation, the SanGaetano matures for six months in American oak barrels – an ageing process that refines the tannins and gives the wine additional complexity.

A delicate, luminous pink with lively, fine bubbles. Vigna del Cristo reveals the elegant and dry side of Lambrusco di Sorbara: fresh, subtle and full of character. On the nose, redcurrants, fresh raspberries, pink grapefruit and a hint of white flowers. On the palate, dry, lively and crisp, with invigorating acidity and mineral tension. A finely sparkling, stylish Lambrusco – refreshing, pleasantly tart and with impressive lightness. Perfect with summery meat dishes, antipasti, seafood or simply as a sophisticated aperitif. Lovely length and an even lovelier drinking experience. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1900, Cleto Chiarli travelled to Paris. In his luggage: bottles of his Lambrusco, fermented using the traditional method – fermentation in the bottle, no intervention, no dosage. The jury at the World Exhibition awarded him the "Mention Honorable". A century later, *Wine Spectator* selected the Fondatore for its Top 100 Wines of the World. The secret lies in the method. Whilst the market favours the Charmat method, Chiarli 1860 continues to use the *Metodo Ancestrale* for the Fondatore, with the second fermentation taking place in the bottle. This is followed by six months' ageing on the lees. No dosage. The result is a Lambrusco whose vintages can be traced back – and which reveals what this wine tasted like long before anyone had the idea of making it sweet.

Elisabetta Geppetti is more than just a winemaker – she is the "Signora del Morellino", the energetic woman who took over the reins of the family winery at the age of just 20 and helped the Maremma region to achieve international renown. When she pressed the first Morellino in 1985, she laid the foundations for a success story that continues to this day. This wine is the quantitative and qualitative calling card of Le Pupille – a constant, authentic expression of the terroir between Pereta and Magliano in Tuscany. The Morellino combines Sangiovese (90%) with Alicante and the autochthonous Ciliegiolo (5% each) from vineyards exposed to the south-west at an altitude of 50 to 250 metres. The vines, some of which are over 40 years old, are rooted in skeleton-rich, clayey and ferrous soils, cooled by sea breezes and strengthened by pronounced day-night temperature differences. After the harvest at the end of September, the must ferments on the skins for 15 days and matures for eight months, mainly in stainless steel tanks with a small proportion in used barriques.

Lambrusco has an image problem. Not because it's bad – but because for decades the wrong version of it has been making the rounds: sweet, run-of-the-mill, served free with pizza. However, anyone who knows that Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC is one of Italy's most fascinating red wine appellations – aromatic, light-footed, with an acidity that puts Bordeaux to shame – will open this bottle with entirely different expectations. 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara from the Vigneto Sozzigalli, 100 hectares of the estate's own vineyards, carefully selected. Short maceration, slow "prise de mousse" in a closed fermentation tank using the Charmat method. No compromises where it doesn't matter.

The French would call it a "cru". Chiarli simply writes the name of the vineyard on the label: Tenuta Generale Cialdini, around 13 hectares in the pre-Alpine hills of Castelvetro, south of Modena. Loamy soils that give the Grasparossa what it needs: body, colour and tannins. For generations, this is where the Chiarli family has been producing what they consider to be the purest expression of this grape variety. Anyone who knows and loves Sorbara should brace themselves. For the Grasparossa is the exact opposite: dark, full-bodied, firm in tannin, with fruit that is more reminiscent of blackberries and wild berries than strawberries. 36 hours' maceration at a cool temperature, slow "prise de mousse", bottling only once the wine has reached the appropriate level of maturity.

The classic from the heart of Chianti Classico: Brolio combines the excellent drinkability of a young Chianti Classico with a complex, complete structure. The vineyards grow on the historic Castello di Brolio between 280 and 480 metres above sea level on five representative soil types – from sandstone to galestro and marine sediments. Intense ruby red colour. Fresh, floral nose with notes of chinotto, violets and mimosa, leading to fruity nuances of black cherries and sweet mint. Velvety and complex on the palate with great harmony, elegant structure and a long, mineral final. A textbook Chianti Classico from a historic terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

Grignolino is one of the most underrated grape varieties in Piedmont – and Braida firmly believes in it. The name reveals where the structure comes from: "Limo" means silt, and the soil on the hills of Rocchetta Tanaro contains plenty of it. 40% silt, 30% sand and 30% clay give the wine its unmistakable backbone. The vines planted in 2010 are densely planted – 5,500 per hectare – and face south and east. Vinified exclusively in steel, four months of tank ageing and two months of bottle ageing preserve freshness and varietal character.

The three sisters from Fittà – Meri, Valentina and Alessandra Tessari – have turned the estate founded in 1982 by their parents, Giovanni and Rosetta, into one of the most respected names in Soave Classico. "Suavia" is the Germanic origin of "Soave" – the name says it all. Whilst their neighbours in the lowlands have long since succumbed to industrial pressures, the sisters cultivate exclusively the indigenous grape varieties Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave across twelve hectares at an altitude of 300 metres. Their vineyards lie on the volcanic hills of Fittà, on copper-red, black and grey soils rich in basalt and other volcanic rock. Here, where 50-year-old vines thrive on mineral-rich subsoil, wines of unmistakable expressiveness are produced.

Some wines are historical records. The 26° Primo is both: a wine and a historical record in one. The name commemorates the 26th year of the founding of Azienda Agricola Andreola: 2009, when Nazzareno Pola handed the estate over to his son Stefano and, at the same time, the appellation achieved DOCG status. A wine that serves as a baton passed between generations, between an ancient winemaking tradition and its modern aspirations. The grapes come from the estate's oldest core holding: around four hectares of steep slopes in Col San Martino, the village in the southernmost part of the hills between Vidor and Vittorio Veneto, where Andreola has had its roots since its foundation. The vineyards lie at altitudes of 300 to 500 metres, partly on limestone conglomerate soils and partly on calcareous marl, interspersed with centuries-old Glera vines and small proportions of indigenous varieties such as Bianchetta, Perera and Verdiso. The slopes are so steep that all work must be carried out by hand.

Refrontolo lies on the eastern edge of the Denominazione – quieter, warmer, and a shade cooler than the steep slopes of the core zone. The Col del Forno vineyard is a natural amphitheatre covering around four hectares at an altitude of 250 metres, nestled between woods and terraced slopes. Andreola acquired the plot in 2016 – and from the very start, the wine has been one of the most compelling in the entire Rive range. What distinguishes Refrontolo from Col San Martino is not quality, but character. The clay-marl soils, featuring karst formations dating from before the last Ice Age, reliably retain moisture – ensuring a stable water supply for the vines even in dry years. Temperatures are slightly higher than in the western part of the appellation, meaning ripening begins earlier. The result is not wines of intense floral character, but Glera with a rich, ripe fruitiness: hawthorn, wisteria, apple, peach and yellow citrus fruits – a warmer, more complex spectrum of aromas.

A Sangiovese cru that demonstrates the philosophy of single-vineyard viticulture to perfection. Sergio Zingarelli and his team recognised early on the extraordinary potential of the clay-dominated soils of Sant'Alfonso – plots with minimal skeleton content, which create the ideal conditions for concentrated, aromatically complex wines. Sangiovese clones were specifically cultivated here, which harmonise with the clay-rich structures and develop the highest phenol concentrations.

Smooth Nebbiolo that shows the clear signature of Giovanni Rosso: This Langhe Nebbiolo presents itself in a bright garnet red with a ruby-coloured rim as an elegant companion with a presence of origin. The naturally cultivated vines are rooted in calcareous and clayey soils around Serralunga d'Alba. The bouquet reveals delicate notes of violets, red wild berries, white rose and a hint of dried herbs – wonderfully balanced between freshness and depth. The palate reveals a fine, supple body: lively acidity, gentle tannins and a fine mineral vein that accompanies the finish with clarity and elegance. A young Nebbiolo with youthful agility and plenty of charm – a lively picture of the terroir in youthful form. SUPERIORE.DE

Monte Carbonare is grown on red volcanic iron-rich soils with an abundance of black basalt at their centre. Six hectares of 60–70-year-old vines in cooler locations, which, as the climate warms, are set to rise further to become the crème de la crème of the top vineyards. A richer wine than the younger Classico, but without the same cheeky vitality. Whilst the Classico is an unbeatable everyday wine, the Monte Carbonare is a complex wine that calls for food and a little more contemplation. Mirabelle plum, apricot kernel, a hint of dried mango and plenty of smoky, sharp minerality, with a dutiful freshness that brings wonderful length. SUPERIORE.DE

An honest statement from Piedmont: This pure Nebbiolo comes from young vines (both Tortonese and Serravallese terroir) in higher altitudes around Barolo, Novello and Sinio. Following natural standards and traditional vinification, it reflects the purity of the variety in its purest form. The ageing in stainless steel with a minimal amount of neutral wood emphasises this pure fruit and the origin without any masking.

An Etna Rosso with a clear vision: Ghiaia Nera is the introduction to the volcanic world of Tenuta Tascante – straightforward, elegant and characterised by the dramatic tension of the volcano. The grapes come from various locations on the north side of Mount Etna, around Randazzo and Castiglione di Sicilia. Volcanic sand, high altitude and large temperature differences characterise the style. It is traditionally matured in large wooden barrels. Brilliant ruby red colour with garnet hues in the glass. The nose opens with ripe cherry, dried raspberry, some orange zest and fine herbal notes. Juicy on the palate, with fresh acidity and a fine-grained tannin reminiscent of black tea. A wine with precision and cool noblesse, not a powerhouse, but a finely drawn red wine that clearly emphasises its origins. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes come exclusively from the single vineyard San Pietro, and since the 2018 vintage, part of the wine has been aged in amphorae. Berries, liquorice and deep red fruit on the nose. Finely woven and very precise structure, a bright, open personality and class on the palate. Sheer elegance and Clerico enjoyment without waiting for further ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

Classic Etna Rosso from Nerello Mascalese with a small proportion of Nerello Cappuccio – grown at an altitude of over 700 metres in various contrade on the northern flank of the volcano, where ash, lava rock and the alpine microclimate form an unmistakable style. Medium ruby red in colour with a garnet-red rim. On the nose, fragrant sour cherry, redcurrant, humming berry, a metallic hint, floral notes and subtle spice. Precise on the palate, with cool fruit, lively acidity and fine-grained tannins. The ageing in used wooden barrels and cement tanks maintains the balance and expression of origin. An authentic, elegant Etna Rosso with good drinkability. SUPERIORE.DE

The year is 1773 and a storm drives the English merchant ship "Elizabeth" into the harbour of Marsala. John Woodhouse, a merchant from Liverpool, seeks shelter – and finds a wine in an osteria that won't let him go. To stabilise it for the long journey home, he fortifies it with Acquavite. A makeshift solution that establishes the history of an entire wine. Pellegrino, the centrepiece of the Marsala tradition since 1880, has dedicated its own cuvée to this far-sighted Englishman. "Old John" – respect in two words. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, harvested in the hinterland between Marsala and Mazara del Vallo, are fortified with neutral alcohol after fermentation has stopped and topped with mosto cotto – grape must – flavoured and slightly sweetened. Then comes the time: at least 48 months in large oak barrels and a further six months in barriques. The 1998 is a true Riserva – not a vintage for the impatient.

Vergine – this is not a style statement, this is a philosophy. No cooked must, no sweetening, no flavour additives. Just wine, alcohol and the quiet labour of time in oak wood. What ends up in the bottle is the result of radical reduction – and therein lies the greatness of this category. The 2000 vintage – then still young in the barrels of Pellegrino's historic winery in the heart of Marsala – spent more than a decade in large oak barrels of between 30 and 80 hectolitres. No haste, no intervention. The oxidation process is slow, controlled and precise. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia from the westernmost tip of Sicily – soils over which the salt of the nearby Stagnone lagoon still lingers in the air.

The 48th edition of a work that began in 1976 as Franciacorta Pinot and has been continuously refined ever since. Since 2017, each bottling has borne its edition number – a commitment to transparency and the uniqueness of each blend. The current blend combines 88% vintage 2023 with 10% reserve wines from 2022 and 2% from 2021, which gives the wine both freshness and depth. The cuvée is sourced from 240 certified organic vineyards in Franciacorta: 80.5% Chardonnay for elegance and structure, 18% Pinot Nero for body and red fruit flavours, 1.5% Pinot Bianco for aromatic finesse. Each grape passes through the in-house washing and drying system before being gently processed. The base wines mature for seven months in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, the second fermentation takes place in the bottle with subsequent yeast ageing for 25 months.

Our team drinks this after work, our very special insider recommendation for purists: finely balanced and very elegant Prosecco Millesimato Spumante Superiore with a shiny golden colour and green reflections. Floral bouquet, fine perlage and elegant flavours of pear and white fruit, which lend the aristocratic, dry structure a great deal of elegance and length. This is not an everyday occurrence, even in the noble DOCG Conegliano Valdobbiadene! SUPERIORE.DE