Bertani

In 1857, the brothers Giovan Battista and Gaetano Bertani founded their winery in the Valpantena valley, east of Verona. Not in the more famous Valpolicella Classica, but here – in a valley that has since borne the estate's name. A commercial document from the Verona Chamber of Commerce dating from 1888 confirms that Bertani Valpolicella Valpantena was already being marketed worldwide at that time as one of the finest examples of Italian wine. That was before Amarone, before the crus, before everything else. 80% Corvina Veronese, 20% Rondinella. Six months in concrete tanks, three months in the bottle. Direct, fresh, uncomplicated.

Bertani and Soave – at first glance, this sounds less obvious than Bertani and Amarone. Yet the estate, founded in Grezzana in 1857, has put down deep roots in the Soave Classica zone. The Sereole vineyard, situated between the municipalities of Soave and Monteforte d'Alpone, is one of the historic Garganega sites in this area, which sets Soave Classico apart from its industrially pressed counterparts from the plains like night and day. 100% Garganega. Aged for four to five months in French oak "tini" – large vessels that lend the wine texture and structure without overpowering it with oaky aromas. Three months in bottle. "The Soave you'd expect." By this, Bertanis means: no experiment, no outlier, but a precise statement of what Garganega is capable of achieving in the Classico region.

Since 1857, Bertani has been synonymous with Valpolicella and Amarone. The fact that this estate on Lake Garda also produces a very fresh, straightforward wine is only surprising at first glance. The southern tip of Lake Garda, between Desenzano and Sirmione, is Turbiana country: a grape variety that grows almost nowhere else, on clay-rich soils that lend it that characteristic chalky finish. "The wine that tastes of spring and summer." Bertani's own words, and they ring true. Three months in stainless steel, around four months in the bottle.

On 12 May 1937, King George VI of England was crowned. At the coronation banquet that followed the historic ceremony, there was one wine on the table: Bertani Soave. Not champagne, not Bordeaux. Soave. From a house that, ever since 1857 – when Gaetano Bertani trained under Jules Guyot in Burgundy – had been committed to the belief that the wines of Verona need not shy away from comparison with the best in the world. The Original Vintage Edition pays homage to this heritage. Made according to the estate's traditional recipe, from vines on the western slope of the Soave hill north of the Castello, the historic heart of the Classico zone, where Garganega grows on volcanic-limestone soil and the air smells of old vineyards. 100% Garganega. Nine months in concrete tanks. Six months in bottle. The concrete preserves freshness and allows the terroir to express itself without overpowering it.

Bertani's Ripasso is a true classic. The grapes come from the hills around Valpantena and from the direct Valpolicella Classico area. The original Ripasso wine would have been an overloaded Valpolicella rather than a mini Amarone, and this example is true to this type and emphasises the fresh and light style of Valpantena, a long, steeply sloping valley with a particularly cool microclimate. Bertani uses the traditional method of production: The young, already fermented Valpolicella wine is blended with the skins that have dried naturally in the meantime, giving it a richer and more concentrated flavour. It then undergoes a second so-called "ripasso" fermentation, which is triggered by the yeasts still present in the skins.

Beneath the vineyard lie the old tunnels of the Miniere di Novare. What was once a mining site is now terroir: The 4-hectare vineyard, spread across two south-west-facing terraces above the tunnel system in Arbizzano di Negrar, forms one of the two cru selections with which Bertani has been redefining the original elegance of Valpolicella Classico since 1857. No appassimento, no ripasso, no oak ageing. Just the grape varieties of this area, the soil and time. Six to nine months in concrete tanks: a vessel that preserves freshness and imparts texture without influencing the final result. At least six months in bottle.

Gaio Valerio Catullo came from Verona. He wrote in Latin, with passion and precision, about love and loss, about the transience and intensity of the moment. Bertani has dedicated this Ripasso to him – not by chance, but because the wine strives to embody the same character: intense, authentic, born of the deepest regional conviction. Catullo follows the historic Ripasso method in its most rigorous form. After the Amarone Classico has been produced, the pomace is put to use once more: the Valpolicella is passed over these residues, ferments a second time, and absorbs colour, tannins and complexity. The ratio is strict: for every bottle of Bertani Amarone Classico, exactly one bottle of Catullo is produced. No more is possible. The Ripasso is therefore inextricably linked to the Amarone.

The grapes for this high-calibre Valpolicella Classico Superiore come from the rather barren, calcareous and terraced vineyards of Tenuta Novare above the Ognisanti church. Wines of greater complexity, perfect structure and higher concentration are produced here than in most other vineyards in Valpolicella. Sparkling ruby-garnet colour. Fragrant nose with wonderful overtones of sour cherry, dried flowers and white pepper. Perfectly balanced on the palate with firm tannins and wonderful spice and depth of fruit thanks to the ageing in wood. A superior, winning wine from the heart of the Valpolicella region. SUPERIORE.DE

In the Valley of the Gods (Valpantena), Bertani has been writing perhaps the purest Amarone story in Italy since 1857. This northernmost subzone of Valpolicella is considered their secret cru, where marl-limestone on the eastern slope and clay-limestone on the western slope of the hills create a unique terroir. Here, far from the tourist trails, Corvina Veronese and Rondinella thrive on 15 to 20-year-old vines. After being harvested by hand in September, the grapes are left to rest for four months in the historic drying rooms of the Grezzana winery until the winter pressing begins. 30 months of ageing in Slavonian oak barrels and barriques give this Amarone its characteristic finesse – less opulent than the classics from Negrar, but more mineral and flavoursome.

In 1958, Bertani produced his first Amarone. The category was virtually non-existent, and "Amarone" is a new term for an age-old practice, yet most producers were still unsure whether this dry Appassimento wine had a future. Bertani, however, had no doubts at the time. Since then, the estate has been one of the leading voices behind a wine that is now considered one of the world's longest-lived reds. The key is patience. Corvina and Rondinella from the Tenuta Novare in Arbizzano di Negrar – vineyards dedicated exclusively to Amarone grapes – hand-harvested from the second week of September.

Gaio Valerio Catullo came from Verona. He wrote in Latin, with passion and precision, about love and loss, about the transience and intensity of the moment. Bertani has dedicated this Ripasso to him – not by chance, but because the wine strives to embody the same character: intense, authentic, born of the deepest regional conviction. Catullo follows the historic Ripasso method in its most rigorous form. After the Amarone Classico has been produced, the pomace is put to use once more: the Valpolicella is passed over these residues, ferments a second time, and absorbs colour, tannins and complexity. The ratio is strict: for every bottle of Bertani Amarone Classico, exactly one bottle of Catullo is produced. No more is possible. The Ripasso is therefore inextricably linked to the Amarone.

The grapes for this high-calibre Valpolicella Classico Superiore come from the rather barren, calcareous and terraced vineyards of Tenuta Novare above the Ognisanti church. Wines of greater complexity, perfect structure and higher concentration are produced here than in most other vineyards in Valpolicella. Sparkling ruby-garnet colour. Fragrant nose with wonderful overtones of sour cherry, dried flowers and white pepper. Perfectly balanced on the palate with firm tannins and wonderful spice and depth of fruit thanks to the ageing in wood. A superior, winning wine from the heart of the Valpolicella region. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1958, Bertani produced his first Amarone. The category was virtually non-existent, and "Amarone" is a new term for an age-old practice, yet most producers were still unsure whether this dry Appassimento wine had a future. Bertani, however, had no doubts at the time. Since then, the estate has been one of the leading voices behind a wine that is now considered one of the world's longest-lived reds. The key is patience. Corvina and Rondinella from the Tenuta Novare in Arbizzano di Negrar – vineyards dedicated exclusively to Amarone grapes – hand-harvested from the second week of September.