Roagna

Gallina comes from a steep, sandy vineyard, similar to the Asili site, but with less limestone, which gives it more roundness and fullness. Full bouquet of sweet tobacco, cedar wood, liquorice and dried herbs. A soft, sweet, red fruit combines with the typical Roagna austerity in an exciting way on the palate to create an impressive complexity and length. It will only reveal its true elegance in a few years' time. SUPERIORE.DE

"Ruby red with bright reflections. The nose delights with a bouquet of floral notes: Mallow, hibiscus and hollyhocks are surrounded by fruity cherries and preserved raspberries and complemented by spicy aromas of black pepper, cedar and juniper berries. The red fruit is accompanied by dark aromas and vegetal notes of blackcurrant and blackberry leaves. The attack is initially subtle until the iron fist is brought out in a velvet glove. The gentle attack calmly builds up immense pressure with great inner tension on the mid-palate. The extract-sweet fruit of cherries and a fine core of sloes mingle with marzipan and noble bitter notes of the ripe tannins, which give it additional length. The exemplary use of wood highlights exactly what characterises a Barbaresco: Concentration combined with lightness and transparency." Sebastian Bordthäuser (Sommelier und Wein-Journalist)

With a few hours in the air, Albesani begins to reveal the inner sweetness and fragrance so typical of wines from this Neive vineyard. Sweet dried cherries, rose petals, kirsch, cinnamon, orange peel and sweet tobacco open up with a little coaxing. Albesani clearly has a lot to offer for those who can wait for the initially prominent tannins to soften. SUPERIORE.DE

Roagna's Barbaresco Pajè already has a great need to communicate in its youth and shows itself to be open-minded and with multi-layered flavours, full-bodied and harmoniously balanced. An extraordinary pleasure for the next 20 years. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Pira is a great, complex wine that has enormous depth and many nuances that open up further with time. It is light-footed yet wonderfully brooding and has so much to offer. Cherry, sweet red cherry, spice, orange peel, menthol and spice fill out the layers effortlessly. Young Barolo tannins are present, but the fruit is rich enough to keep things in balance. SUPERIORE.DE

With a few hours in the air, Albesani begins to reveal the inner sweetness and fragrance so typical of wines from this Neive vineyard. Sweet dried cherries, rose petals, kirsch, cinnamon, orange peel and sweet tobacco open up with a little coaxing. Albesani clearly has a lot to offer for those who can wait for the initially prominent tannins to soften. SUPERIORE.DE

"Transparent ruby red. Vines over 80 years old provide the material for this exceptional Barbaresco with a cathedral-like appearance on the nose: the ethereal balsamic superstructure with notes of sandalwood and incense, juniper and rosemary is complemented by fruity litanies of cherries, raspberry jam and blood oranges and adorned by floral overtones of violets, mallow and hollyhocks along with a pinch of white pepper. On the palate, it is precisely parted, of noble understatement and charming nature. The fine, long acidity gives it aristocratic polish, the ripe and tightly woven tannins coat it in the noblest thread. Delicate and transparent, the delicate fruit illuminates the entire palate. Conversations fall silent, glasses clink, laughter. Its approachable manner seems jovial, yet it is demanding with decisive insistence and epochal reverberation. Everyone is happy to obey." Sebastian Bordthäuser (Sommelier und Wein-Journalist)

"Transparent ruby red. The nose is reminiscent of a morning stroll in an oriental bazaar. The ethereal opening combines noble woods such as cedar and sandalwood until one enters the spice zone and juniper mixes with black pepper and cardamom as well as dark tobacco. The fruit vendors cheerfully offer cherries, raspberry jelly and preserved hibiscus blossoms, the florists have small violets on display. One of the market criers refreshes his bicycle chain with a quench of graphite and chews on a piece of liquorice with a smile. The ripe, leafy tannins of the Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti are tightly interwoven with extract-sweet fruit notes and the all-defining acid arc.

Radiant ruby red with purple reflections. In the nose first cherry, then herbal spice, mint and essential oils. Noble woods like cedar and sandalwood mingle with traces of pipe tobacco, smoky tones and damp, autumnal forest floor. On the palate, cherry again, an opulent potpourri of wilted leaves, damp soil, truffles, plus a fine note of old leather. An incredibly complex wine from a famous single vineyard that will give pleasure for many decades to come. SUPERIORE.DE

Roagna's Barbaresco Pajè Vecchie Viti opens with a bright garnet-red colour and a deep, shiny glow. The fruit of old vines manages to reach the impossible point between power and elegance. The wine shows a delicate and bright bouquet, but also a compact fruit and a long finish. You can feel this extra fullness on the finish. The production is around 2,500 bottles. SUPERIORE.DE

Gallina comes from a steep, sandy vineyard, similar to the Asili site, but with less limestone, which gives it more roundness and fullness. Full bouquet of sweet tobacco, cedar wood, liquorice and dried herbs. A soft, sweet, red fruit combines with the typical Roagna austerity in an exciting way on the palate to create an impressive complexity and length. It will only reveal its true elegance in a few years' time. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti comes from the estate's oldest vines, which were planted in 1937. As always, Pira Vecchie Viti is more about haunting, ethereal flavours than power. Sweet rose petals, mint, dried flowers, sweet red cherries and cedar give this beguiling, high-toned Barolo a captivating aromatic presence. A great wine. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Rocche di Castiglione comes from a parcel just above the Cascina Pira of Roagna. It offers a captivating blend of supple fruit, soaring flavours and structure. The 2019 is silky and sensual through and through, as wines from this vineyard tend to be. It is transparent, beguiling and mesmerising from the very first sip. SUPERIORE.DE

This breathtaking Barbaresco (total production approx. 1,300 bottles) shows more power and intensity than you would normally find in a Barbaresco. It opens with heady aromas of wild berries, new leather, undergrowth and menthol. On the palate, it shows ripe black raspberries, juicy cherries and liquorice before finishing on a tobacco note. It is still youthfully nervous and somewhat austere, it still needs some time to develop fully. SUPERIORE.DE

A handful of fresh cherries. A hearty bite. Juice running down your fingers. Anyone who tastes the Gallina 2020 experiences this moment – immediate, sensual, irresistible. Among the Roagna Barbareschi, it is the seducer – the wine that does not impress with austere grandeur, but captivates with its open charm. Since 2014, the family has been cultivating a plot in Neive's most famous MGA. The soil, consisting of calcareous loam with a high sand content, lends the Nebbiolo here that silky finesse which sets Gallina apart from its more austere neighbours. Antonio Galloni calls the vineyard "the source of the roundest and most accessible Barbaresco wines in the municipality". Wines that can be enjoyed young yet will continue to mature for decades.

Typical Asili: Vecchie Viti 2018 emerges from the glass with an impressive aroma. Sweet red berries, mint, blood orange, cinnamon and star anise form a wonderful network of aromas and flavours. The 2018 is graceful, light-footed and full of Asili seduction, but with that extra kick of tannin that is so typical of Roagna. With further bottle ageing, this is sure to be one of the great wines of the appellation! SUPERIORE.DE

1937. Europe was on the brink of disaster, yet someone planted Nebbiolo. These vines still stand today – some on their original roots, protected by calcareous soils in which the phylloxera had never been able to take hold decades earlier. Others were propagated using an ancient technique: a shoot from the mother plant is bent underground, takes root and becomes a vine in its own right. Genetically identical, yet reborn. In this way, the vineyard is rejuvenated without losing its identity. One and a half hectares within the Pira monopoly position are reserved for these "veterans". Antonio Galloni described the 2019 vintage as "one of the most moving, beautiful wines I have ever tasted here" – 99 points for something that really defies rating. For this Barolo is not about power, but about aroma and depth.

Roagna's Barbaresco Pajè Vecchie Viti opens with a bright garnet-red colour and a deep, shiny glow. The fruit of old vines manages to reach the impossible point between power and elegance. The wine shows a delicate and bright bouquet, but also a compact fruit and a long finish. You can feel this extra fullness on the finish. The production is around 2,500 bottles. SUPERIORE.DE

Geologists call it erosion. Winegrowers call it fate. Over millions of years, the rocks above Castiglione Falletto weathered, forming the soils on which Pira thrives today. When Luca Roagna acquired half a hectare on these very 'rocche' in 2016, he came full circle: the mother rock returned to its child. The plot lies at the historic heart of the vineyard, at the summit of the hill at three hundred metres, facing due south. Calcareous clay soils, interspersed with white rock and sand, nourish Nebbiolo vines dating from the 1960s and 70s – planted with cuttings from ancient vines. Situated right next to the new winery, this vineyard is Roagna's most intimate possession: a mere 0.48 hectares, yielding a Barolo that Antonio Galloni simply describes as "pure sensuality".

This breathtaking Barbaresco (total production approx. 1,300 bottles) shows more power and intensity than you would normally find in a Barbaresco. It opens with heady aromas of wild berries, new leather, undergrowth and menthol. On the palate, it shows ripe black raspberries, juicy cherries and liquorice before finishing on a tobacco note. It is still youthfully nervous and somewhat austere, it still needs some time to develop fully. SUPERIORE.DE

What does a name mean? In the Piedmontese dialect, "Pajè" once simply referred to the various vineyard plots – a commonplace word for an everyday thing. The fact that this very name now stands for one of Barbaresco’s most legendary crus is one of the fine ironies of wine history. Since 1953, the Roagna family has been cultivating 1.83 hectares here in the heart of the municipality, and anyone who asks Luca Roagna about the essence of his work inevitably ends up here. The vineyard is a natural amphitheatre: gently sloping towards the south and south-west, sheltered from the wind by hills, and opening out towards the Tanaro valley. The soil tells a story spanning 70 million years – marine sediments from the Tertiary period, interspersed with active limestone in a concentration that is exceptional even for the Langhe. The vines, averaging over 50 years in age, are deeply rooted in this history. After the harvest, the must ferments with its own yeasts; maceration with the cap of pomace submerged lasts up to two months. Five years in large wooden barrels and concrete tanks complete the ageing process.

Whenever one hears the name Albesani, one inevitably thinks of Bruno Giacosa and his legendary Santo Stefano. The fact that Luca Roagna has been cultivating a plot in the immediate vicinity since 2014 is one of Barbaresco's best-kept secrets – and one of its most exciting developments. The plot lies at 240 metres, at the highest point of the hill, where the area borders Santo Stefano. Calcareous soils with a good proportion of sand characterise the terroir, and fifty-year-old Nebbiolo vines are deeply rooted in this privileged soil. Albesani has held MGA certification since 2007 – belated recognition for a vineyard that connoisseurs have long regarded as one of the finest in the region. The winemaking process follows the Roagna method: maceration with a submerged cap of pomace for two months, followed by five years' ageing in large barrels and concrete tanks.

Some vineyards are bought. Some are inherited. This one was won at cards. In 1961, a 0.22-hectare plot in the heart of Asili changed hands – the previous owner, so the story goes, had had extraordinary bad luck at cards. Giovanni Roagna had the better hand. Or perhaps he simply had better luck. The Piedmontese called this plot "Asei" in their dialect – one of the historic vineyards south of the village of Barbaresco. The plot lies exactly in the centre of the hill, where Luca Roagna identifies the "most classic" part of the cru. The soil is characterised by calcareous marl interspersed with reddish-yellow veins of sand. The vines, now at least 80 years old, are not tended – they are left to their own devices. Wild grasses cover the ground; Luca does not plough, and the permaculture remains untouched.

Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti comes from the estate's oldest vines, which were planted in 1937. As always, Pira Vecchie Viti is more about haunting, ethereal flavours than power. Sweet rose petals, mint, dried flowers, sweet red cherries and cedar give this beguiling, high-toned Barolo a captivating aromatic presence. A great wine. SUPERIORE.DE