Decanter

Elisabetta Geppetti has dedicated this Rosato to a woman who came before her: Rosa Mati – the first in the family to believe in the Maremma when others were still turning a blind eye. A woman who invested when this wild coastal landscape in south-western Tuscany was not yet a wine-growing region in the modern sense. That belief was the beginning of everything that Le Pupille is today. And the wine that bears her name is Elisabetta Geppetti's most personal creation – unchanged in its conviction since the first vintage in 2002: 100% Syrah, as a rosé. This is not an obvious choice. In the Maremma, Syrah is primarily known as a powerful red wine. Turning it into a rosé – transparent, fresh and elegant – requires precision.

Pèppoli is an entertaining, very relaxed red wine with a firm fan base. A sparkling, intense ruby colour with a slight garnet hue. The Pèppoli expresses its strong personality through its bouquet of ripe fruit with light mineral accents. The juicy flavour with lively tannins spreads gently yet powerfully across the palate and lingers for a long time. Very easy to drink, very classic and, incidentally, excellent value! SUPERIORE.DE

Capalbio – this is the southernmost end of the Tuscan coast, where the Maremma is wilder and more unspoilt than anywhere else, with views of Monte Argentario and the Burano lagoon. This is where Monteverro is located: a biodynamically farmed estate that Georg and Barbara Weber awoke from its slumber around two decades ago. Vermentino is the white soul of this place – fresh, fruity, light-hearted, with the fine minerality of clay and limestone soil. 100% Vermentino, harvested by hand from 5,555 vines per hectare with a north-south orientation. Whole-cluster pressing, no malolactic fermentation – because this is about freshness, not fullness. Six months on the fine lees in stainless steel tanks. The result is exactly what Monteverro formulates as its goal: "An expression of Italy's joie de vivre."

Zenato’s world-famous Valpolicella Superiore, produced using the Ripasso method, is a rich wine offering excellent value. It is peppery, with earthy and gravelly notes that give way to black cherries and savoury herbs. It reveals deep, silky textures balanced by lively acidity, whilst ripe red and black fruits resonate beneath a hint of lavender. Zenato’s Ripassa is concentrated and intense, yet conveys elegance, leaving a fresh note of violet sweets on the palate that lingers for a long time. SUPERIORE.DE

In the western heart of Chianti Classico, between Florence and Siena, lie the four historic vineyards of Castello di Monsanto: Il Poggio, Scanni, Il Mulino and Il Salcio. On 72 hectares between 280 and 320 metres above sea level, surrounded by a Mediterranean biotope of cypresses, junipers, brooms and strawberry trees, predominantly Sangiovese vines thrive on the characteristic Galestro soils – the slate-like rock that gives the wines depth and powerful characteristics. The Bianchi family has consistently favoured the quality of Sangiovese for over 60 years and created the first Chianti Classico cru in 1962 with Il Poggio. The Annata is made from a selection of grapes from the younger vineyards, which are particularly suitable for ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels. 90% Sangiovese is complemented by 10% Canaiolo and Colorino – a classic blend that combines freshness and accessibility with the characteristic depth of the Monsanto terroir.

In the hills between Macerata and Ancona, Bisci's red wines are made from the modest 1.5 hectares of Sangiovese and Merlot that have complemented the portfolio of the legendary Verdicchio specialists since the very beginning. The Villa Castiglioni 2019 combines 80% Sangiovese with 20% Merlot in a sophisticated cuvée that expresses the warm terroir of the Marche region. After manual harvesting, the wine is macerated for 15 days in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with daily pumping over, followed by twelve months of ageing partly in oak barrels and partly in steel.

Felsina's single-varietal Sangiovese wines have been produced on the south-eastern edge of the Chianti Classico since 1967. The vineyards face south-west on ventilated slopes between 320 and 420 metres above sea level on geologically heterogeneous soils of quartz-rich sandstone, calcareous Alberese and clay. After hand-picking in the first three weeks of October, temperature-controlled fermentation takes place between 28-30°C with intensive maceration in stainless steel tanks for 12-15 days. Ageing lasts twelve months, mainly in traditional Slavonian oak barrels of medium size, supplemented by a small proportion of used barriques.

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

Anyone familiar with the nine vineyard reserves of the Produttori del Barbaresco will know that this co-operative's entry is no concession. Langhe Nebbiolo is made from young vines that are spread across the entire appellation – the same soils, the same families, the same care. What sets it apart from its big brothers is not intention, but time. After two years of prolonged drought, the 2024 vintage began with a refreshingly wet winter that replenished the water reserves in the soil. Spring came early and mild; bud break began around 20 March. What followed was an even, well-tempered growing season – ideal for a Nebbiolo that can be drunk earlier but still has something to say. Vinification in concrete vats at 28 degrees, 20 days of maceration with pumping over twice a day, followed by five months in large oak barrels – this is not a compromise, but a concept.

A classic escape into the idyllic world of the South Tyrolean mountains: a bright lemon-yellow colour with golden hues. Anna Turmhof Pinot Blanc, with aromas of pear, peach and floral notes, is an exceptionally smooth and beautiful wine, rich and concentrated, with class and sophistication. Its fresh acidity gives it a lively character right through to the very captivating and complex finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The Vinschgau is the driest valley in the Alps – less than 500 millimetres of rainfall per year, intense sunshine, dramatic temperature fluctuations between day and night. Not an obvious place for great wine. And yet: Franz Pratzner has believed in it since 1989 – when he gradually transformed the family fruit-growing business above Hochnaturn Castle into a vineyard. Today, Falkenstein is regarded as one of South Tyrol’s most distinctive estates. The Pinot Blanc grows on dry, ancient porphyry soil, on steep south-facing slopes between 550 and 900 metres – austere, mineral, uncompromising. Hand-harvested in mid- to late September. Then comes the estate’s hallmark: fermentation in large acacia wood casks, ten months on the coarse lees. No stainless steel neutrality, no barrique influence – acacia gives the wine a delicate, creamy texture without detracting from its freshness. This is followed by around twelve months’ bottle ageing.

Buchholz – as early as the Austrian land register of 1858, the name referred to the valley slopes above Salurn, where terraced vineyards lie on dolomite sedimentary rock at altitudes between 400 and 800 metres. Peter Zemmer, whose family has been making wine in Kurtinig on the Weinstraße since 1928, has chosen this diverse site for his Chardonnay: a mosaic of microclimates and soils that combines alpine freshness with southern ripeness. In the mornings, the breeze from the north cools the vines; in the afternoons, the ‘Ora’ from the south warms them: a daily cycle that gives the grapes time to develop. The winemaking process is deliberately restrained: a short cold maceration to preserve the fruit, followed by fermentation at 19°C in large wooden barrels.

Swiss precision meets Tuscan passion: Monika and Thomas Bär-Bettschart have been realising their dream at the Antico Podere Gagliole in Castellina in Chianti since 1990. Rubiolo is the certified organic homage to over three decades of winegrowing in one of the most beautiful terroirs in Tuscany. Made from pure Sangiovese grapes from both the historic terraces around Castellina and the famous Conca d'Oro in Panzano, this wine epitomises the synthesis of two exceptional vineyards.

Tenuta Sansonina is situated in the south of Lake Garda, not far from Sirmione – where the lake breathes across the hills and the soils tell the story of what the last Ice Age left behind: A deep, clayey mixture of chalk and silt that stores water, buffers heat and gives the Turbiana grape that distinctive minerality which sets Lugana apart from everything else. Thirteen hectares, organically farmed, with vines around sixty years old – vines that know just how deep they need to reach. 100 per cent Trebbiano di Lugana, hand-harvested and carefully selected before the grapes reach the winery. The must is first cold-fermented statically, then ferments for around ten to twelve days in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. Six months’ ageing in stainless steel tanks, followed by one month in the bottle: no oak, no interference, just the wine and its terroir.

An honest statement from Piedmont: This pure Nebbiolo comes from young vines (both Tortonese and Serravallese terroir) in higher altitudes around Barolo, Novello and Sinio. Following natural standards and traditional vinification, it reflects the purity of the variety in its purest form. The ageing in stainless steel with a minimal amount of neutral wood emphasises this pure fruit and the origin without any masking.

The Riserva represents the roots of Fattoria Le Pupille – it is the very first wine produced and marketed by the winery. Originally launched in 1978 as "Rosso di Pereta", it became the foundation of a terroir with the establishment of the Morellino di Scansano discipline, which Elisabetta Geppetti led to international recognition with passion and vision. As the first woman to head the Consorzio Morellino di Scansano, she not only shaped the denomination, but also the entire Maremma wine culture. Sangiovese (90%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) from the La Carla, Maiano, Bozzino and Vecchie Pupille vineyards at an altitude of 50 to 250 metres. The soils vary from clayey-silty to sandy-loamy structures with a limestone marl component. After 25 to 30 days of maceration at 26 degrees, the wine matures for twelve months in Slavonian oak barrels with a capacity of 20 to 40 hectolitres.

"This is the wine with which my experience as a winemaker was born. A wine from a single vineyard in which I frankly find all the characteristics of Bolgheri that I love: clear and juicy fruit, balance. The Merlot brings volume and softness, the Cabernet Sauvignon structure. I give a lot of space to the very Tuscan Sangiovese, which adds complexity and drinkability." Fabio Motta

In 1991, Luca and Valeria Orsini gave up their work in Milan to produce wine in Tuscany. Their winery comprises 10 hectares of south-east facing vineyards in Panzano and the wines have been certified organic since 2000. This outstanding Annata opens discreetly on the nose with subtle scents of cherry blossom, heather and roses. On the palate, it is decidedly red-fruited with redcurrants and raspberries, embraced by finely structured, powdery and persistent tannins. It has a lovely energy and above all lets the true charm of Sangiovese shine through. A real high-flyer in terms of authenticity every year! SUPERIORE.DE

Delicate, elegant Nerello Mascalese with fine aromas of red fruits and raspberries, enveloped in a pleasant citrus freshness. As the wine progresses, it develops a smoky note associated with the strong lava rock component that characterises the volcanic soil of Etna. Lively, harmonious and full of flavour on the palate – a resolutely versatile wine that goes perfectly with a variety of fish dishes, shellfish and white meat. SUPERIORE.DE