Decanter

A classic from the Collio region, masterfully interpreted: Livio Felluga's Pinot Grigio impresses with its depth, precision and expression of terroir. The vines are rooted in the famous "Flysch di Cormòns" – calcareous marl and sandstone formations that lend the wine its subtle minerality. In the glass, it is a luminous straw yellow with golden highlights. The aroma is delicate and complex: white peaches, ripe pears and a hint of citrus zest, complemented by floral notes and a touch of toasted hazelnut. On the palate, it is dry, supple and well-structured, with well-integrated acidity and an elegant finish. This is no run-of-the-mill summer wine, but a Pinot Grigio to be taken seriously, with substance, which clearly benefits from the estate's style – unpretentious, clear and with fine depth. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1973, Graziano Merotto purchased plot 86 in the Rive di Col San Martino – —an overgrown stretch of hillside still covered in woodland. He cleared it himself, planted Glera and began to shape the vineyard that would one day become his most important. Over fifty years later, this wine bears his name. The Cuvée del Fondatore is made exclusively from that historic plot – 230 metres above sea level, south-facing, clay and sand, with vines over 40 years old. Graziano Merotto’s decision in the cellar is unusual: maceration before pressing – a step that most producers skip – then the must goes straight into the autoclave, 60 days of secondary fermentation, followed by a further 180 days of ageing on its own lees. Almost nine months from must to bottle – a comparatively very long time for a Prosecco Superiore. 33,000 bottles, 670 magnums, 10 jeroboams.

The only thing that has actually changed is the name. The Unterthiner family have always vinified their Pinot Noir in the manner befitting a serious Pinot Noir – with the necessary time in the cellar. The wine matures in small wooden barrels for at least twelve months, often longer, because at the Ebnerhof decisions are never made according to the calendar, but according to taste. This ageing period meets the DOC requirements for a Riserva, so the wine now bears this designation. The approach remains unchanged: following a selective hand-harvest from the limestone-rich, sandy south-facing slopes, the wine undergoes controlled maceration in stainless-steel tanks before being transferred to small wooden barrels, which lend it depth and complexity.

Brolio Riserva is the flagship of Italy's most traditional winery – a wine that bears the signature of the Ricasoli family year after year and at the same time captures the extraordinary diversity of the Brolio terroir. The 100% Sangiovese grapes come from the five characteristic soil types of the estate between 280 and 480 metres above sea level – a terroir mosaic of sandstone, Galestro, Alberese, marine and fluvial deposits that lend the wine exceptional complexity. After controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks with 12 to 16 days of maceration, the wine matures for 18 months in first and second passage tonneaux before resting for a further three months in the bottle. Intense ruby red in colour with garnet reflections, the bouquet combines ripe black cherry, spicy notes and an elegant hint of vanilla. A generous fullness unfolds on the palate, supported by silky tannins and lively freshness – a harmonious, multi-layered Chianti Classico that perfectly balances tradition and international elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1962, Egidio Corradi bought two neglected poderi in Cervognano – a Genovese broker who had spent most of his life away from Tuscany, but had always known where he wanted to return. Boscarelli's first bottle of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano appeared in 1968. Since then, this main line has hardly changed in terms of composition and ageing. This is not hesitation – it is conviction. Prugnolo Gentile and Canaiolo, from vines over 10 years old on the red, sandy, mineral-rich soils of Cervognano, 280 to 350 metres, east-facing, 6,500 vines per hectare.

The grapes come exclusively from the single vineyard San Pietro, and since the 2018 vintage, part of the wine has been aged in amphorae. Berries, liquorice and deep red fruit on the nose. Finely woven and very precise structure, a bright, open personality and class on the palate. Sheer elegance and Clerico enjoyment without waiting for further ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

Bucine, Valdarno di Sopra – where the Arno meanders through rolling hills between Arezzo and Florence, Fattoria Petrolo lies at an altitude of between 250 and 500 metres. In 1988, Lucia Bazzocchi Sanjust wanted a wine that would convey the true identity of this terroir: Petrolo's "Château", a tribute to the centuries-old Tuscan tradition of blending French grape varieties with Sangiovese. As early as 1834, Giorgio Perrin, an agronomist of Swiss origin and owner of Petrolo, reported in the *Giornale Agrario Toscano* as early as 1834 that it was common practice in Chianti to blend "uve francesi" with Sangiovese, not to alter the quality, but because the terroir takes precedence over the grape varieties.

Classic Etna Rosso from Nerello Mascalese with a small proportion of Nerello Cappuccio – grown at an altitude of over 700 metres in various contrade on the northern flank of the volcano, where ash, lava rock and the alpine microclimate form an unmistakable style. Medium ruby red in colour with a garnet-red rim. On the nose, fragrant sour cherry, redcurrant, humming berry, a metallic hint, floral notes and subtle spice. Precise on the palate, with cool fruit, lively acidity and fine-grained tannins. The ageing in used wooden barrels and cement tanks maintains the balance and expression of origin. An authentic, elegant Etna Rosso with good drinkability. SUPERIORE.DE

Mirum (the miracle) is a statement of limestone, altitude and time. It is no ordinary Verdicchio, but one of the most charismatic Riserva bottlings in central Italy. Vinified since 1990, it comes from a particularly barren, limestone-rich south-western slope above Matelica, where the vines grow at over 400 metres. The wine is matured exclusively in stainless steel, but with long lees ageing – a decision that combines clarity, texture and ageing potential.

Luigi Veronelli was regarded as Italy’s most influential wine critic of the 20th century. In the 1970s, he named the Müller-Thurgau from Pojer e Sandri’s Località Palai vineyard his absolute benchmark wine for the variety. Mario Pojer recalls: “Today, 50 years on, we pay tribute to the variety that has found its ideal habitat.” Fifty years later – the character remains the same. The conviction remains. Palai lies at 700 metres. This is the estate’s highest vineyard – the very same that gives Pinot Noir its alpine coolness and Riesling its precision! For Müller-Thurgau, it is the ideal terroir: a long growing season, cool nights, pronounced temperature variation, chalky soils, and the breeze of the Ora del Garda.

GROSSO is a Blanc de Noirs produced using the traditional Champagne method and aged on its fine lees for 24 months. A delicate pink colour and a fine, persistent effervescence. A crisp bouquet of violets, citrus zest, nectarine and wild strawberry. On the palate, it has lovely momentum, with very straightforward notes of red berries. Very well-balanced, it dances its way to a respectable finish with subtle spice and impressive freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

Pinzon. A vineyard site that has long been regarded by connoisseurs as synonymous with top-quality South Tyrolean Pinot Noir. This small wine-growing village on the eastern side of the Adige Valley, first mentioned in records in 1230, lies amidst the vineyards that, along the Pinot Noir Trail, are counted amongst Italy’s finest Pinot Noir terroirs. Here, at an altitude of around 550 metres in the municipality of Montan, Peter Zemmer cultivates his vines on porphyry soils with deposits of dolomite carbonate rock – —a geological combination that lends the wine its characteristic minerality. The microclimate of the site is shaped by its elevation above the Adige floodplain and its north-westerly aspect, which grants the vineyards long hours of evening sunshine. The ‘Ora’, that famous valley wind which rises from Lake Garda through the Adige Valley, cools the vines in the afternoon and regulates humidity – ideal conditions for this demanding Burgundian variety.

Praesulis Sauvignon Blanc unfolds in the glass with hints of aromatic herbs and lemon zest, accompanied by gooseberries, grapefruit and elderberries. Soothingly smooth and with a pleasant inner sweetness, it blends candied lemon with tart melon and lively acidity to create a robust yet juicy style on the palate. It finishes with vibrant tension and good length, leaving behind concentrated citrus fruit and lovely floral notes. Wonderfully elegant and well-balanced. SUPERIORE.DE

Two names define this Riserva: Il Corno and Poggio Selvale. It is from these two prime vineyards, situated at altitudes of between 350 and 450 metres, that the Sangiovese grapes come from which Castello di Radda crafts its classic Riserva style. The clay-limestone soils, with their high proportion of galestro and alberese – that characteristic calcareous slate of the region – , lend the wine mineral depth and structural complexity. In this coolest zone of Chianti Classico, where dense forests surround the vineyards and the temperature fluctuations between day and night are particularly pronounced, the Sangiovese reveals its most elegant side. After hand-harvesting, the grapes are destemmed and fermented in 50-hectolitre stainless-steel tanks. Maceration on the skins lasts three to four weeks – a luxury afforded only by fully ripe grapes from prime vineyards. Malolactic fermentation takes place in wood before the wine begins its 20-month ageing process: in second- and third-use French tonneaux and in 20-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels. Nine months’ bottle ageing completes the wine’s development.

Produced in just 6,000 bottles per vintage, Godenza from the vineyard of the same name undergoes spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, followed by temperature-controlled maceration in stainless steel tanks. After malolactic fermentation, it then matures for 12 months in cement vats and at least 9 months in the bottle. Made from 100% Sangiovese grapes, it is characterised by its complex and open bouquet with aromas of small red berries and spices. On the palate, it is firm and clear with a wonderful balance between acidity and ripe flavours and has a very respectable, slightly salty and spicy finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The year is 1773 and a storm drives the English merchant ship "Elizabeth" into the harbour of Marsala. John Woodhouse, a merchant from Liverpool, seeks shelter – and finds a wine in an osteria that won't let him go. To stabilise it for the long journey home, he fortifies it with Acquavite. A makeshift solution that establishes the history of an entire wine. Pellegrino, the centrepiece of the Marsala tradition since 1880, has dedicated its own cuvée to this far-sighted Englishman. "Old John" – respect in two words. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, harvested in the hinterland between Marsala and Mazara del Vallo, are fortified with neutral alcohol after fermentation has stopped and topped with mosto cotto – grape must – flavoured and slightly sweetened. Then comes the time: at least 48 months in large oak barrels and a further six months in barriques. The 1998 is a true Riserva – not a vintage for the impatient.

In Nals, there is a phenomenon that rarely occurs elsewhere with such intensity: the Venti di Caduta – the downdrafts that plunge down from the mountains and can lower the daytime temperature by up to 20 degrees. Hot days, freezing cold nights – all within a matter of hours. For the Sauvignon Blanc, this means maximum ripeness of the fruit during the day and maximum preservation of acidity and aromatics at night. A microclimate that keeps this grape variety on its toes. Added to this is a soil that is unrivalled in terms of depth and composition: a 150-metre-deep alluvial fan, built up over millennia by the Sirmian and Nals streams, consisting of 70 per cent limestone gravel and 30 per cent porphyry debris. Two geological worlds that lend the Sauvignon both mineral rigour and aromatic depth. Facing east-southeast, at an altitude of 330 to 400 metres, this is the heart of the Nals terroirs.

Set amongst the hills of Bibbona, where the vineyards of the Alta Maremma overlook the Tyrrhenian Sea, this characterful cuvée is the result of an ambitious project by the Antinori brothers. The name Insoglio is a poetic reference to the spots where wild boars root around in the ground – a symbol of the wild, unspoilt nature of the Maremma landscape. Composed mainly of Syrah, complemented by Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine displays an intense purplish-red colour with violet highlights.

In 1961, Guido Berlucchi and the young Oenologist Franco Ziliani made history: the very first Franciacorta was produced in Borgonato di Corte Franca. This pioneering spirit grew into an institution, and in 2022 Gambero Rosso named the house ‘Winery of the Year’. The Cuvée Imperiale blends Chardonnay (90%) and Pinot Nero (10%) from the finest vineyards across all 19 Franciacorta municipalities. Gentle pressing, fermentation in stainless steel, followed by blending in the spring with 10% reserve wines from the finest vintages. The wine matures on the lees for at least 18 months, followed by a further two months after disgorgement.

In Bolgheri, less than four kilometres from the Mediterranean Sea, lies that "El Dorado" of Italian viticulture which the legendary Oenologist André Tchelistcheff once visionary recognised. Here, on the volcanic soils between an ancient cypress-lined avenue and the Tuscan coast, Le Volte emerges as the approachable calling card of a winery whose name is synonymous worldwide with uncompromising quality. The cuvée, comprising 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, is vinified separately by grape variety in small stainless-steel tanks to preserve the individual characteristics of each. Following malolactic fermentation, the wine matures for ten months, partly in used Ornellaia barriques and partly in concrete tanks – a deliberate balance between structure and fruit expression.

The label features a delicate illustration of a wild boar hunt: a pack of hounds is attacking, whilst the wild boar stands its ground. Le Difese – is the precise Italian term for the boar’s tusks, those fangs with which it defends itself as a last resort. A fitting image for a wine that is Tenuta San Guido’s most approachable – yet does not compromise on character. Le Difese is the estate’s only wine to feature an indigenous Tuscan variety: Sangiovese from the Chianti-Rufina area, combined with Cabernet Sauvignon from the vineyards of Tenuta San Guido. Two Tuscan souls in a single cuvée – the international variety and the indigenous one. Fermentation in stainless steel, malolactic fermentation in stainless steel, followed by four months in used French and American oak barriques. Six months in bottle. Fresh, direct, approachable.

The grapes for this elegant Metodo Classico come from loose limestone soils with a clay content from the Überetsch and Unterland regions. The three grape varieties are vinified separately, gently pressed and fermented at a controlled temperature of 14°-16°C. The wine is matured in stainless steel on the lees of the first fermentation until spring. The wine is matured in stainless steel on the lees from the first fermentation until spring. Bright straw yellow in colour, fine and persistent perlage, fruity aroma with a subtle hint of yeast and flint. Fresh, dry and very persistent on the palate, with a pleasant aftertaste of dried fruit and a saline touch. SUPERIORE.DE

From the legendary San Guido estate, the cradle of Sassicaia, comes Le Difese, a wine that combines the essence of two worlds: the international class of Cabernet Sauvignon with the Tuscan soul of Sangiovese. Named after the golden boar tusks on the label – a symbol of the wild Maremma –this blend, first created in 2002, embodies the accessible side of an icon. After gentle hand-picking and temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks, Le Difese matures for twelve months in French and American barriques, followed by three months in the bottle.