Decanter

In Nals, there is a phenomenon that rarely occurs elsewhere with such intensity: the Venti di Caduta – the downdrafts that plunge down from the mountains and can lower the daytime temperature by up to 20 degrees. Hot days, freezing cold nights – all within a matter of hours. For the Sauvignon Blanc, this means maximum ripeness of the fruit during the day and maximum preservation of acidity and aromatics at night. A microclimate that keeps this grape variety on its toes. Added to this is a soil that is unrivalled in terms of depth and composition: a 150-metre-deep alluvial fan, built up over millennia by the Sirmian and Nals streams, consisting of 70 per cent limestone gravel and 30 per cent porphyry debris. Two geological worlds that lend the Sauvignon both mineral rigour and aromatic depth. Facing east-southeast, at an altitude of 330 to 400 metres, this is the heart of the Nals terroirs.

In the hills of Bibbona, where the vineyards of the Alta Maremma overlook the Tyrrhenian Sea, this characterful cuvée is the result of the Antinori brothers' ambitious project. The name Insoglio is a poetic reference to the places where wild boar burrow in the ground – a symbol of the wild, unspoilt nature of the Maremma landscape. Composed mainly of Syrah, supplemented by Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is an intense purple-red colour with violet reflections.

In 1961, Guido Berlucchi and the young Oenologist Franco Ziliani made history: the very first Franciacorta was produced in Borgonato di Corte Franca. This pioneering spirit grew into an institution, and in 2022 Gambero Rosso named the house ‘Winery of the Year’. The Cuvée Imperiale blends Chardonnay (90%) and Pinot Nero (10%) from the finest vineyards across all 19 Franciacorta municipalities. Gentle pressing, fermentation in stainless steel, followed by blending in the spring with 10% reserve wines from the finest vintages. The wine matures on the lees for at least 18 months, followed by a further two months after disgorgement.

In Bolgheri, less than four kilometres from the Mediterranean, lies that "El Dorado" of Italian winemaking which the legendary Oenologist André Tchelistcheff once visionarily recognised. Here, on the volcanic soils between an ancient cypress-lined avenue and the Tuscan coast, Le Volte emerges as the accessible calling card of a winery whose name is synonymous worldwide with uncompromising quality. The cuvée, comprising 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, is vinified separately by grape variety in small stainless-steel tanks to preserve the individual characteristics of each. Following malolactic fermentation, the wine matures for ten months, partly in used Ornellaia barriques and partly in concrete tanks – a deliberate balance between structure and fruit expression.

The label features a delicate illustration of a wild boar hunt: a pack of hounds is attacking, whilst the wild boar stands its ground. Le Difese – is the precise Italian term for the boar’s tusks, those fangs with which it defends itself as a last resort. A fitting image for a wine that is Tenuta San Guido’s most approachable – yet does not compromise on character. Le Difese is the estate’s only wine to feature an indigenous Tuscan variety: Sangiovese from the Chianti-Rufina area, combined with Cabernet Sauvignon from the vineyards of Tenuta San Guido. Two Tuscan souls in a single cuvée – the international variety and the indigenous one. Fermentation in stainless steel, malolactic fermentation in stainless steel, followed by four months in used French and American oak barriques. Six months in bottle. Fresh, direct, approachable.

The grapes for this elegant Metodo Classico come from loose limestone soils with a clay content from the Überetsch and Unterland regions. The three grape varieties are vinified separately, gently pressed and fermented at a controlled temperature of 14°-16°C. The wine is matured in stainless steel on the lees of the first fermentation until spring. The wine is matured in stainless steel on the lees from the first fermentation until spring. Bright straw yellow in colour, fine and persistent perlage, fruity aroma with a subtle hint of yeast and flint. Fresh, dry and very persistent on the palate, with a pleasant aftertaste of dried fruit and a saline touch. SUPERIORE.DE

From the legendary San Guido estate, the cradle of Sassicaia, comes Le Difese, a wine that combines the essence of two worlds: the international class of Cabernet Sauvignon with the Tuscan soul of Sangiovese. Named after the golden boar tusks on the label – a symbol of the wild Maremma –this blend, first created in 2002, embodies the accessible side of an icon. After gentle hand-picking and temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks, Le Difese matures for twelve months in French and American barriques, followed by three months in the bottle.

Villa di Capezzana has been the Tenuta's flagship since 1925 and is a living testimony to Tuscan wine culture. This Carmignano DOCG epitomises the vision of the Contini Bonacossi family, who for five generations have been cultivating the heritage of a wine estate whose first documented mention dates back to 804. In 1975, Carmignano was the first Tuscan DOC zone ever to officially include Cabernet Sauvignon in the assemblage – centuries before the Super Tuscans discovered this idea for themselves. The tradition goes back to the 16th century, when Caterina de' Medici had Cabernet cuttings brought to Carmignano from Bordeaux.

In the local dialect, ‘Giatl’ means ‘small plot of land’ – and this name is steeped in history. The ten-hectare single vineyard in the valley floor of Kurtinig a.d.W. is one of the most exceptional terroirs for Pinot Grigio in the South Tyrolean Unterland. On sandy alluvial soils with calcareous gravel, vines grafted onto low-vigor rootstocks thrive here under ideal conditions, trained using the Guyot system. The unique microclimate of this sun-drenched spot is shaped by two contrasting wind systems: the warm ‘Ora’ blows northwards from Lake Garda in the afternoons, tempering the daytime heat, whilst at night cool downdrafts from the Dolomites provide relief. These extreme temperature fluctuations allow for long, slow ripening phases whilst perfectly preserving acidity and concentrating the aromas. Following hand-harvesting and destemming, a short cold maceration takes place to emphasise the fruitiness. The gently pressed grapes are clarified by natural sedimentation before alcoholic fermentation takes place in small and large French oak barrels (12 months) and in stainless steel tanks (6 months). Yeast ageing lends the wine valuable complexity and depth, whilst further months of bottle ageing round off its profile.

A Pinot Nero from Franz Haas is a textbook expression every year and a benchmark throughout South Tyrol, with bright aromas of blueberries, violets and lavender rising gracefully from the bouquet. This is pure cool climate in the glass. On the palate, it is taut and silky and always beautifully polished and streamlined in a positive sense. This is a beautiful, complex and exceptionally exciting Pinot Nero from a master hand. SUPERIORE.DE

Wine has been produced here since 1051 – initially by monks, and since 1846 by the Stucchi Prinetti family, now in its seventh generation. Badia a Coltibuono, the ‘Abbey of the Good Harvest’, was the first leading winery in Chianti to switch entirely to organic cultivation. The Riserva is made from massalblend of Sangiovese and historic complementary varieties such as Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo, grown on the highest hills near Gaiole. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts, three weeks’ contact with the skins, followed by 24 months in French and Austrian oak barrels. The 2021 vintage benefited from a cool year with late frosts – lower yields, but concentrated quality.

Furggl is a field name that sticks in the memory. In the municipality of Auer, in the heart of South Tyrol’s Unterland region, this single vineyard is situated on alluvial soils composed of limestone and porphyry gravel, interspersed with sand and loam. A terroir that offers the late-ripening Lagrein exactly what it needs: warmth, depth and the soil moisture that ensures a consistent supply of water even in dry years. The vines, grafted onto low-vigor rootstocks and trained using the Guyot system, yield concentrated harvests of just 45 hectolitres per hectare. Following the hand-harvest in early October, the destemmed grapes first undergo a one-day cold maceration before fermentation takes place at 28–30 °C over ten days. Regular pumping over and gentle submersion keep the must in contact with the skins – , allowing colour pigments and fruit aromas to permeate the heart of the wine. After two careful rackings, the long ageing process begins: 12 months in French barriques, followed by 6 months in stainless steel, then a further 6 months of bottle ageing. Only after a total of 24 months’ ageing does this wine reach the customer – ready to drink, yet with the potential to age for a decade or more.

In 1090, while Leif Erikson was discovering America and the first universities in Europe were being established, two friends of Abbot Rolando paid "two capons, three loaves of bread and six silver denarii from Lucca" for the annual lease of a vineyard in the divine valley of Dievole. Nine hundred (Novecento) years later, in 1990, this wine was created as a reminiscence of the incredible journey through the centuries. The grapes thrive between 300 and 420 metres above sea level on stony soils of marl, limestone and galestro. The vines, which are on average 15 years old and cultivated organically as in the early days of this domain, undergo a 14-day spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in cement vats before maturing for 18 months in large, unroasted French Allier oak barrels.

It was Luigi Veronelli, the Italian wine revolutionary of the 60s and 70s, who convinced Francesco Giuntini that exceptional single vineyards deserve their own voice. Of all the old Poderi from the Mezzadria period, Bucerchiale has always been the best – a south-west facing amphitheatre in the cooler heights of Rufina, where Tuscany approaches the last foothills of the Apennines. Francesco took the plunge in 1979. While the law still stipulated Trebbiano in every Chianti and the wine world favoured quantity, he produced defiant resistance from pure Sangiovese. A 100 per cent Sangiovese from a single vineyard – a revolutionary act at the time that marked the beginning of the Tuscan Renaissance. In 2022, Vigneto Bucerchiale celebrates its 43rd year and embodies a perfect vision. Spontaneous fermentation in steel tanks at 30-32°C with 30 days of maceration allows every nuance of the terroir to unfold before the wine matures 50 per cent in French oak barrels of 25 hl and 50 per cent in barriques – only 15 per cent of which is new.

Deep dark, sparkling ruby red colour. An opulent dark red fruit basket on the nose, intense and full. From the very first sip, a depth that is unrivalled in this price range. The heights to which this wine is capable of carrying the connoisseur are nothing short of spectacular. At the same time, it always convinces with an indescribable balance. Maharis is never fat or jammy, but its potpourri of dark fruits, spices, matured leather and a subtle smoky note is balanced at all times with an almost surprising freshness and liveliness. The final is long, velvety and richly textured. Magnificent! SUPERIORE.DE

High above San Casciano dei Bagni, at an altitude of 650 metres, where Carlo Franchetti once discovered a forgotten Pinot Noir vineyard and began his Sancaba project, Grechetto now also grows – an indigenous Tuscan grape variety that develops a surprising complexity here in the cooler microclimate. Carlo, the cousin of the late Andrea Franchetti, is pursuing his vision with Sancaba Bianco: to create elegant, broodingwhite wines that express the terroir just as precisely as his celebrated Pinot Nero. Grechetto is an underestimated grape variety, but in the perfect terroir, vinified with the right flair, it produces wines of impressive structure and freshness.

The Pecorari family's passion for single-varietal wines is best represented by the Pinot Grigio Gris, which is matured for 11 months on the fine lees with bâtonnage. This Pinot Grigio fermented in oak offers an exciting and complex bouquet of white peach, citrus, flint, crushed oyster shells, white rose petals and notes of acacia honey. The well-proportioned acidity, the fresh flavour and the wonderful depth and tension make it easy to see that the Pinot Grigio at Lis Neris occupies an absolutely special position every year. SUPERIORE.DE"Firm, somewhat nutty, planty to herbaceous and hints of mushroomy aromas of yellow fruit with slightly smoky and vanilla wood notes and nuances reminiscent of mussel shells. Polished, firm fruit with melting and some light wood notes, fine acidity, has a grip of ripe tannin, good substance and persistence, certain depth, salty minerality, tobacco, butter and hints of crab meat in the background, very good, animating finish with bite." Wein-Plus"Bright straw yellow colour. Fine reduction on the nose, subtle flint, precious wood and stone fruit. Full-bodied and radiant on the palate, with great juiciness and salinity, powerful, savoury, lingers for a long time, great Pinot Grigio!" Falstaff"It is fresh and mineral with notes of white peaches, flowers and stones. Crisp and juicy with a medium body and a polished, mineral backbone. Tasty finish." James Suckling"The 2021 Pinot Grigio Gris tantalises the senses with an opulent blend of vanilla pods, sweet spices and whole butter complementing ripe apples and pears. It is pleasantly round and silky in flavour, with a core of juicy acidity that balances it out and ripe fruit that plays around it. The balance on the inside is fantastic. The 2021 rejuvenates with a saline mineral note and sour citrus, leaving a youthful inner tension. The oak will need to be integrated a little over the coming years, but I expect that with a little patience an absolutely stunning interpretation will develop." Vinous

With his Sancaba, Carlo Franchetti has proven that Tuscany has great Pinot Noir terroir – cool, mineral, Burgundian in elegance. But great Pinot Nero requires patience and a high price. With Petit Sancaba, Carlo created the little brother in 2022: an accessible, fairly priced entry into his Pinot world, vinified from the youngest vines of the vineyard planted in 2018 and from the second selection of the older plots. 25 per cent whole-cluster fermentation gives the wine structure and complexity, while ageing partly in concrete and partly in used tonneaux preserves the clarity of the fruit.

From the white earth of Noto, between stone walls, olive trees and orange blossom, rises Doppiozeta, a wine that doesn't illustrate south-eastern Sicily, but condenses it. It is one of the two flagships of the Mazzei family's Zisola project - a deep, finely constructed red that gives Nero d'Avola a voice that is rarely heard: concentrated, serious, supple. The vines grow on calcareous soil on a gentle slope just a few kilometres from the sea. Nero d'Avola is clearly in the foreground here, complemented by Syrah and Cabernet Franc - a precisely placed tension between fruit, flavour and structure. The grapes are harvested by hand with the utmost care, fermented in conical stainless steel tanks, after which the wine matures for around 16 months in French oak, with a small proportion in new wood.

While the Chianti Classico Ruspoli Annata shows the accessible, fresh side of Lilliano, the Riserva reveals the depth and maturity that lie dormant in the estate's best parcels. Selected only in outstanding years and from the Tenuta's best vineyards, it represents the potential of the Sangiovese grape on the chalky Alberese soils of Castellina in Chianti. The 2020 vintage is considered exceptional in Tuscany: balanced temperatures, moderate rainfall and a long, warm autumn allowed the grapes to ripen perfectly. The cuvée of 95 per cent Sangiovese and five per cent Merlot is fermented in small stainless steel and cement tanks after selective hand-picking before the wine matures for 14 to 15 months in large French oak barrels – a conscious decision in favour of traditional ageing, which gives the Sangiovese structure without dominating it. A further six months of bottle ageing round off the development.

A vineyard like a time capsule: Replanted around 1900 after the phylloxera epidemic, the oldest vines have been growing here for 120 years on calcareous sandy loam soils between 290 and 320 metres above sea level. With MAX XIX, Alois Lageder is preserving one of these rare South Tyrolean treasures – an authentic "mixed set" of different Vernatsch varieties such as Tschaggelevernatsch, Edelvernatsch and Grauvernatsch, complemented by Lagrein, Teroldego and other indigenous varieties. The special thing about this heterogeneity: at harvest time, some grapes are perfectly ripe, others are already overripe and others are still unripe – a natural interplay between sugar and acidity that gives each vintage its own tension.

Syrah in Sicily - this is no longer a surprise. But Achilles, Zisola's top single-varietal wine, gives the grape variety on the chalky hills near Noto a new expressiveness: powerful, deep and at the same time controlled, with that polished precision that does not seek to imitate, but to shape independently. The grapes come from small plots with a high proportion of limestone in the soil, close to the coast. The warm climate is tempered by constant air circulation - ideal conditions for even ripening. After selective manual harvesting, spontaneous fermentation takes place in conical tanks, followed by ageing for around 16 months in French barriques.

Until 2012, this wine bore the name of the estate itself – passopisciaro. However, when Andrea Franchetti began to vinify his best individual vineyards separately in 2008, he renamed the basic Etna Rosso: Passorosso. A blend from different altitudes and contrade – from Malpasso to Guardiola and Santo Spirito –which shows the full range of what Nerello Mascalese can achieve on Mount Etna. The higher vineyards lie on coarse-grained lava gravel, the lower ones on finer, oxidised lava powder: each layer contributes to the complexity of this wine. 80 to 110-year-old vines, fermented in steel tanks, matured for 18 months in large neutral wooden barrels and concrete tanks, bottled unfiltered.