Wines from Piedmont

Bionzo is a hamlet near Costigliole d'Asti, around 15 kilometres south-east of Alba – not a famous name, not a long headline. But here, on five hectares of calcareous clay and marl soils with a southern exposure, 250 metres above sea level, are Barbera vines that have been rooting through the same soil for more than six decades. La Spinetta has been vinifying one of the most characterful representatives of this denomination since 1998. Giorgio Rivetta's conviction that 90 per cent of the quality comes from the vineyard is evident here: no herbicides, no artificial fertilisers, horses instead of tractors to keep the soil alive. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled tanks for 14 to 15 days, malolactic fermentation and subsequent ageing take place in French oak barrels – 20 per cent new, the rest second fermentation. Then bottle ageing. Certified organic.

The name honours Giuseppe "Pin" Rivetti, the driving force behind this family and founder of La Spinetta. His Rosso Monferrato is more than just a cuvée – it is a personal legacy comprising 65% Nebbiolo (from old vines in Castagnole Lanze/Neive) and 35% Barbera d"Asti (Bionzo plot). Each grape variety was vinified separately with around 7–8 days of maceration in rotary fermenters at a controlled temperature, followed by malolactic fermentation in French oak. Ageing took place over 16–18 months in used, medium-toasted barriques, before the two components were transferred to stainless-steel tanks to mature for a further two months, followed by 15 months of bottle ageing without filtration.

Pecchenino, traditionally known in Dogliani for Dolcetto, ventured into Monforte d'Alba, one of the eleven Barolo villages and home to some of the appellation's most prestigious single vineyards, in the early 2000s. Today, the family cultivates plots in the three prestigious Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive Ravera di Monforte, Le Coste di Monforte and Bussia – sites whose names carry weight in connoisseur circles. San Giuseppe is not a single vineyard, but a composed vision: 50% Ravera di Monforte, 35% Le Coste and 15% Bussia merge to create a Barolo that combines the strengths of these different terroirs. Ravera, at an altitude of 440 metres, with its whitish marl, brings minerality and structure. Le Coste, exposed to the south-east, delivers elegance and aromatic finesse. Bussia, the largest and best known of the three, contributes strength and ageing potential. The chalky, clayey soils, the south to south-westerly exposure and the precise manual labour in the vineyard – everything follows the principle of low yields for maximum concentration.

Monprà combines equal parts Barbera and Nebbiolo from vines in Monforte d'Alba, some of which are over 50 years old, at an altitude of 300-400 metres, from sites with clayey-limestone marl soils interspersed with sandy veins. Fermentation is temperature-controlled and takes place separately for each grape variety in stainless steel, while malolactic fermentation and 18 months of ageing take place separately in French oak. Only then are the batches blended – a precise, elegant blend that combines the fullness of Barbera with the noblesse of Nebbiolo.

Monprà consists of equal parts Barbera and Nebbiolo – two Piedmontese character grape varieties that together paint a picture of fruit, tension and fine contours. They grow in Monforte d'Alba at an altitude of 300-400 metres on soils of calcareous marl with sandy and clayey veins that lend minerality and structure. Both grape varieties are fermented separately, undergo malolactic fermentation and then mature for around twelve months in used French barriques. Only then are they blended – this preserves the characteristics of both varieties and creates a harmonious whole.

The grapes for Clerico's entry-level Barolo come from younger vines in the top vineyards of Pajana, Ciabot Mentin and Percristina (Mosconi). The 2021 vintage is considered one of the best of the last decade: a balanced vegetation cycle with warm, sunny days and cool nights promoted even ripening and preserved the concise acidity structure. In the glass, it shines a rich garnet red with ruby-coloured reflections. The nose reveals a clear, complex aroma of ripe cherry, dark plum and dried rose, complemented by hints of violet, tobacco, liquorice and a fine, balsamic note. Powerful and precise on the palate, with juicy fruit, present, well-integrated acidity and taut, fine-grained tannins that promise a long development. The 2021 still needs to develop a little, but the essential components are already very convincing today. SUPERIORE.DE

The Bordini parcel lies between gentle hills in the municipality of Neive, with a southern exposure and calcareous soil – one of the structure-forming Barbaresco vineyards that has always been famous for its power, elegance and depth. The 2021 vintage is considered particularly refined: A long, balanced growing season nourished the grapes with balanced ripeness, while cooler nights preserved the fine acidity. The manual harvest in mid-October was perfectly timed and ensured the high quality of the harvest. Ageing in large oak barrels for 12-14 months brought complementary depth without masking the clear fruit expression.

Bruno Giacosa was not a man of long explanations. His credo could be summarised in one sentence: perfect grapes, minimal intervention, the terroir does the rest. Since his death in 2018, his daughter Bruna has continued to run the winery in Neive with winemaker Dante Scaglione – the same philosophy, the same meticulousness, the same conviction that Nebbiolo needs no help if it grows in the right place. The Nebbiolo d'Alba does not come from the Langhe, but from the Roero – the left bank of the Tanar, the often underestimated opposite bank to Barolo and Barbaresco. The vineyards in the municipalities of Monteu Roero, Santo Stefano Roero and Vezza d'Alba lie on sandy, calcareous soils that show a different side to Nebbiolo than the heavy limestone marl of the Langhe: more accessible, more floral, with a natural lightness in the tannin. Vines between 20 and 30 years old, various exposures, harvested at the beginning of October. Spontaneous fermentation, 25 days maceration in steel tanks, complete malolactic fermentation. Matured for 14 months in French oak. Bottled without filtration.

The Bordini vineyard in Neive, sun-kissed and situated on calcareous, slightly sandy soils, has been known for generations for Nebbiolo with natural vigour and fine contours. The 2022 vintage brought a warm, dry growing climate, which, thanks to cool nights and precise harvest, produced grapes with intense aromas and optimal phenolic ripeness. The colour in the glass is a rich ruby with a slight garnet hue. The nose is inviting and multi-layered: juicy plum, ripe strawberry and the warm aroma of crushed nutmeg interweave with rose petals, orange peel, a hint of dried herbs and fine spice. On the palate, the wine reveals its dual nature – generous red-fleshed fruit paired with the classic Nebbiolo structure that characterises Bordini. Velvety but noticeable tannins provide backbone, while the lively acidity keeps the rich fruit in balance and lends freshness and energy to the powerful body. The finish is long, savoury and infused with a fine mineral vein – a Barbaresco full of expressiveness that harmoniously combines the essence of the vineyard and vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

Albe! ... the poetic name of this Barolo refers to the sky at sunrise, as experienced by the various terroirs of the estate: Coste di Vergne, Fossati and La Volta. These high-altitude sites each produce slightly different dawns, which is symbolically reflected in the harmony of the cuvée. The grapes come from young but ripe Nebbiolo vines and combine the nuances of each parcel to create a flowing, elegant expression. The grapes were carefully harvested by hand, each parcel was vinified separately and only combined into a cuvée in the spring before bottling. The wine is matured for around 36 months in large Slavonian oak barrels (40–75 hl) with annual racking – a maturation that allows for depth and harmony.

A Riserva that only comes into being when the year allows it – and which makes a promise with its name: Essenze stands for the essence of the grape variety, the terroir and the time. The grapes come exclusively from the best cru sites in the municipalities of Barolo, Monforte, Serralunga, La Morra and Castiglione Falletto. Each parcel is vinified separately, carefully monitored, matured – and finally composed like a mosaic. The result: a Riserva Barolo that does not need to be loud to radiate authority. It is only bottled in exceptional years such as 2015 – after more than 42 months of ageing in large barrels and barriques.

Stefano Conterno is the more experimental of the three brothers – the one who likes to break new ground, while Franco and Giacomo would rather have a few more bottles of their legendary Baroli. But there is a method to Stefano's "playfulness": since its premiere in 1997, the Quartetto has been a bold answer to the question of whether international grape varieties can also be cultivated in the sacred hills of Bussia. The answer is yes, if you do it right. The name already reveals the concept: four grape varieties in a harmonious composition. 40 per cent Nebbiolo forms the Piedmontese backbone, plus 20 per cent each of Pinot Noir, Merlot and Syrah. All the grapes come from the Bussia zone, are harvested by hand in mid-October, vinified separately and matured in French barriques before Franco carries out the blending with a masterful hand. The result is a wine that combines race, elegance and impressive fullness without being overly flavoured.

Vigneto Gallina is a parcel with iconic status and is located in the core area of the famous Barbaresco Gallina vineyard, north of Neive. Vines with an average age of around 55 years are rooted on south-facing slopes with calcareous marl and sandy inclusions – an expression of terroir, history and origin, carried in every drop.

A wine with origin and signature: The grapes come from the renowned Scarrone vineyard directly below Castiglione Falletto – a warm south-east exposure with calcareous marl soils. Vietti cultivates the vineyard organically and vinifies the Vigna Scarrone with respect for the grape variety and terroir. Temperature-controlled maceration is followed by ageing in large barrels and used barriques – an approach that promotes both structure and elegance.

Aldo Conterno was an exception among the Piedmontese Barolo producers – one of the few who gave Barbera the attention it deserved. While his colleagues dismissed the variety as an everyday wine, Conterno recognised its potential. The Conca Tre Pile is a steep, hilly slope in the Bussia Soprana, planted entirely with Barbera – vines up to 45 years old, rooted in the legendary terroir that usually produces the great Barolo. This is no ordinary Barbera. This is Barbera on a par with the greats. The grapes are harvested by hand at the beginning of October. After eight to ten days of maceration at 26 to 28 degrees in stainless steel tanks, the wine is racked, pumped over several times and then filled into 100 per cent new French barriques, where it matures for twelve months. An unusual amount of wood for Barbera – but it works for Conterno. The natural acidity of the variety absorbs the wood, integrates the vanilla and spice flavours and transforms them into complexity rather than dominance.

Ruby red in colour with a violet hue. Ripe cherry, blackberry and violet on the nose, with a hint of herbal spice. Juicy, fresh and precise on the palate, carried by fine tannins and lively, pure-toned fruit. The pure stainless steel maturation reinforces the varietal character. Winemaker Chiara Boschis is regarded as a pioneer of organic winegrowing in Piedmont – her tireless, quality-driven work and likeable personality characterise each of her wines. SUPERIORE.DE

Deep, bright ruby red colour. A concentrated, multi-layered aroma of ripe black cherry, blackberry and cassis on the nose, with hints of violet, liquorice and a touch of graphite. On the palate, the Falletto is remarkably dense and structured: juicy, dark fruit, present, finely balanced acidity and tannins with a fine grain that give the wine contour and length. The partial ageing in wood lends additional depth and a fine, spicy nuance without masking the freshness of the grape variety. A Barbera of rare precision that impressively brings the excellence of the Falletto vineyards in Serralunga to the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

Matteo Ascheri is fascinated by the grape varieties of the Rhône Valley and produces an extremely small quantity of top-class single-varietal Syrah every year. What is also special about this wine is that it is not a stereotypical example of the well-known great Syrahs from California, France and Australia - quite the opposite: this is a balsamic wine with an intense bouquet of cherry, rosemary and traces of ginger. On the palate, it shines with freshness, intensity and an exciting potpourri of teriyaki spice, smoke, cherry and notes of smoked meat. Its impressive texture and a full, long finish make this Syrah experience unforgettable! SUPERIORE.DE

"Il ritorno alle origini." This is how Matteo Ascheri describes his new Barolo. In an appellation that has been increasingly focussing on single vineyards for decades, this is a deliberate approach: not a single parcel, but a careful selection from the best vineyards of the house. Thoroughness and uncompromisingness, not in the vineyard alone, but continued with the same meticulousness in the cellar. Seven generations of experience, a clear statement. 100% Nebbiolo, hand-picked between 5 and 20 October – when the Nebbiolo in the Langhe reaches its ripening point, not earlier. Fermentation for 14 days at 28°C. What follows takes time: Storage potential of 20 to 25 years. 2021 was a year of great elegance in the Langhe – even ripeness, cool nights, precise phenolic structure. Wine Spectator has included the 2021 in its Top 100. The wine explains why.

The vineyards of the Reyna site in the hills of Neive and Barbaresco benefit from an ideal south-east to south-west exposure and reddish limestone marl, which is loosened up by sandy inclusions. The grapes are deliberately harvested late in order to achieve optimum physiological ripeness. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine matures for around 18 months in large Allier and Slavonian oak barrels, followed by a resting period in the bottle. The 2021 vintage was characterised by a warm, stable summer and cool nights during the ageing phase, which ensured impressive aromatic precision and a taut structure.