Wines from Piedmont

Uvaggio is an old Piedmontese word for what has been practised in the vineyard for centuries: Growing different grape varieties together, harvesting together, pressing together. In Alto Piemonte, this was never an emergency solution, but a conviction – that Nebbiolo brings depth, Vespolina spice and minerality, Croatina colour and suppleness, and that the whole is more than the sum of its parts. Proprietà Sperino has recovered this principle from the historical memory of the region. Paolo De Marchi – who redefined Chianti Classico in Tuscany with Isole & Olena – returned with his son Luca to the family's home in Piedmont, the castle of Lessona, in 1999. Here, in a vaulted cellar that is more than two hundred years old, they have since been producing wines that put Alto Piemonte back on the map of great Italian red wines. The grapes come from the vineyards in Lessona and the Madonna degli Angeli vineyard in Brusnengo, both on those unique marine Pliocene sands on igneous rock that give the wine its unmistakable minerality. Spontaneous fermentation with natural yeasts in open wooden barrels, 23 days of maceration, regular pumping over. Twelve months sur lie, then 22 months in a mixture of barriques and large oval barrels.

When Franco Pola bottled the first bottle of his Barbaresco Bordini in 1970, he not only wrote the beginning of a family story, but also symbolised the connection between man and vineyard that lasts for generations. The vineyard bears the same name as the street on which the winery stands – via Bordini 15 – and this geographical coincidence harbours a deeper truth: here, where the winery building looks directly onto the south-east-facing slope, family and terroir are inextricably interwoven. On sandy limestone/clay soil, 280 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo vines 50 to 60 years old take root – one hectare of which is even over 70 years old and ungrafted, a living link to the time when Franco's father Secondo still ran the farm as a farm.

The grapes for this elegant Nebbiolo come from the Ravera di Monforte vineyard, a small, calcareous and clayey plot on the south-eastern slope above the village of Monforte d'Alba. It shares its name with the famous Novello cru, but is independent and characterised by stony soils that give the roots depth and minerality. Bright garnet red with a ruby-coloured core. The bouquet opens with clear, youthful fruit: sour cherry, redcurrant and a hint of raspberry, underpinned by violets, dried herbs and a subtle hint of cinnamon. On the palate, the wine is taut and fresh, with precise acidity, ripe tannins and an animating, slightly savoury length. An authentic Nebbiolo from the Langhe that clearly shows its origin and signature in the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

When Luciano and Luca Sandrone first set eyes on the concave hill of Valmaggiore in the 1990s, it was love at first sight. It wasn't just history that moved them – in the 19th century, the Nebbiolo grapes from this vineyard dictated the price for the entire area – but above all the unique combination of sandy soils and the microclimate of this natural amphitheatre. In Vezza d'Alba, on the left bank of the Tanaro in the Roero, lies this south-facing single vineyard with extremely steep slopes, where soft sandy soils give the Nebbiolo the finesse and elegance for which the Roero region is famous.

Bright ruby colour with a purple shimmer. The bouquet is fresh and youthful: red cherries, crisp plums, a hint of cranberry and subtle floral nuances. Straightforward on the palate, with clear fruit, present, animating acidity and a fine spicy finish. Thanks to its maturation in stainless steel, it is particularly appealing to drink and shows the unadorned, fruit-emphasised character of the grape variety. A juicy and serious Barbera that clearly expresses its origins and is great fun even when young. SUPERIORE.DE

In a privileged plot south of the legendary Bricco Boschis lies the Cavallottos' insider tip: Vigna Cuculo. Here, where normally only Nebbiolo should grow, the brothers Giuseppe and Alfio have achieved an oenological miracle – a Barbera cru that combines its Piedmontese soul with the aristocratic elegance of its great Barolo neighbours. The name "Cuculo" – the cuckoo – could not be more poetic for this wine, which asserts itself like a stranger in royal territory while developing its very own identity. The plot benefits from the unique microclimate of Bricco Boschis, that geological treasure where different soils meet in a symphony of limestone, marl and sand layers. This soil complexity gives the Barbera grape a minerality and structure that goes far beyond what is normally expected from this grape variety. West-south-west exposure and the chalky-clayey soils create ideal conditions for a wine of exceptional depth.

A secret that only true connoisseurs can appreciate: Cavallatto's Langhe Nebbiolo is the most democratic aristocrat in the Piedmontese wine aristocracy. Here, young vines from the legendary Bricco Boschis are combined with "declassified" grapes from other prestigious crus from Castiglione Falletto. The Cavallottos do not vinify Baroli from vines less than 12-15 years old – but these "young savages" find their perfect stage in Langhe Nebbiolo. The terroir speaks for itself: the unique geology of the Bricco Boschis, where ancient sea beds have formed a mosaic of calcareous marl and veins of sand. This "lingua di terra" – tongue of land – gives Nebbiolo the mineral signature that makes Cavallatto's wines unmistakable.

From the historic Mosconi cru hillside in Monforte d'Alba: Fides is Pio Cesare's clear commitment to the Barbera grape – for years from a singular parcel, with the strictest yield limits and tiny production. Hand-picked, followed by fermentation in stainless steel with around 30 days of maceration; malolactic fermentation takes place gently in tanks. Ageing: around 20 months in large oak barrels (botti), a small proportion in French barriques – enough to anchor depth and texture without masking the origin.

Massolino's Barbaresco is the quintessence of finely balanced terroir: Nebbiolo grapes from the Starderi, Albesani and Serraboella cru sites mature together to create a complex yet transparent wine. The 2022 vintage provided a balanced climate – warm days and cool nights – which harmoniously blends freshness, finesse and aromatic richness. The colour in the glass is a medium garnet red with bright reflections. The nose exudes a velvety elegance of red fruits, violets, delicate lavender, spicy notes, crushed rock and a hint of orange peel – pure, lively fragrance with contoured clarity. A medium body full of energy unfolds on the palate: silky tannins, lively acidity and polished, mineral tension are the carriers of a fruit-emphasised depth. The finish lingers for a long time – intensely floral, spicy and with vibrant freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

Some vineyards become the property of a family through strategic acquisition, others through a marriage that unites two Piedmontese families. When Aldo Pola took Luisella from nearby Serracapelli as his wife, this union not only brought two people together, but also the Pola family with the cru that is now one of the most sought-after in the municipality of Neive: Serraboella. Here, on calcareous soils of medium structure, 300 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo thrives in an interpretation that differs from the powerful Bordini – more reserved in its youth, almost shy, but with an elegance that comes to full fruition over the years. What Matteo Pola vinifies from the 30-year-old vines of this single vineyard is a Barbaresco of remarkable harmony – a wine that impresses not with its volume, but with the crystalline precision that characterises great terroirs.

The grapes for the excellent Chardonnay Bastia come from high-altitude, south-west-facing plots in Monforte d'Alba, whose calcareous marl soils with veins of clay and sand provide tension and fine minerality. Pale straw yellow in colour with golden reflections. Yellow apple, pear and ripe lemon on the nose, accompanied by hints of white flowers, fresh almonds and subtle vanilla notes. Fresh and harmonious on the palate, with clear fruit, fine acidity and a creamy texture that comes from ageing partly in stainless steel tanks and partly in used barriques. An elegant, terroir-influenced Chardonnay from high-altitude Barolo vineyards with the very best Burgundy charm and great development potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Elisi is a barrique-aged blend of grappas from different vintages and grape varieties. The marc from Barbera, Nebbiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon give this grappa elegance, finesse and complexity. SUPERIORE.DE

This classic Barolo, based on an exciting blend of plots from Serralunga d'Alba, Castiglione Falletto and Barolo, shows the stylistic signature of the region at its best. The soils are structurally diverse: rich in calcareous marl, loam and mineral intersperses, each parcel contributes its part to the tension of the wine. The 2020 vintage reveals a model year of balance: a cool, precise ripening process with milder temperatures early on, followed by warm but balanced days and cool nights until the harvest. After traditional vinification – including daily pumping over during the 25-day maceration period – the wine matured for around 24–30 months in tonneaux.

The foundation of the Elena Spirits range – the Vermouth di Torino Rosso. Not a limited vintage Vermouth like the Superiore variants, but an elegant, harmonious product that combines tradition and future. The basis? High-quality Piedmontese wines – first and foremost the famous Langhe Nebbiolo "Perbacco" from Vietti, complemented by other Nebbiolo wines. In addition, 30 natural botanicals and herbs from Piedmont, which are cold macerated in alcohol for three weeks. The extract is blended with the Nebbiolo and matured for 50 days in stainless steel tanks.

Serralunga d'Alba stands for powerful Barolo with depth, structure and astonishing ageing potential. Giovanni Rosso draws the best from this origin: south-east to south-west facing vines on calcareous, clayey-maceous soils at high altitudes (300-350 metres), combined with rigorous natural cultivation. The 2020 vintage recorded optimal ripeness, favoured by warm days, cool nights and a flawless autumn. After careful manual harvesting, each parcel underwent separate 25-day maceration, after which the wine matured for between 24 and 60 months in large oak barrels.

Traditionally vinified Barolo from the estate's best vineyards. Brilliant ruby red colour. Complex, spicy bouquet of liquorice, tobacco, dried flowers, violets and damp leaves. Very emphatic, firm and full-bodied on the palate. Its racy and forward style is flanked by tangible, robust tannins. Finishes with a fine sweetness, elegant and long. The already undisputed high level will continue to develop in full beauty over the next few years. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for Prunotto's highly attractive Barbaresco come from long-standing contract plots in Treiso and Neive. The grapes are harvested selectively by hand, the lots are destemmed separately and fermented in stainless steel; the maceration time is around eight days at controlled temperatures. Malolactic fermentation is completed before winter. The wine matures for around a year in large oak barrels of various sizes – deliberately designed for balance, texture and expression of origin.

Before individual vineyards became a currency, Barolo was an idea. An idea that combined different soils, different slopes, different communities into one whole – and created a complexity that no single vineyard could achieve on its own. Davide Rosso sticks to this idea. His Barolo DOCG combines grapes from three municipalities in equal parts: Serralunga d'Alba with its hard limestone marls and uncompromising tannin structure, Castiglione Falletto with somewhat lighter, sandy soils and a natural aromatic suppleness, and the commune of Barolo itself, whose Tortonian soils lend the Nebbiolo a floral, accessible side.

Anyone looking for the hardest terroir in the Barolo zone will inevitably end up in Serralunga d'Alba. The whitish limestone marl soils of the Helvetian formation – compacted, rich in minerals, barren – give the Nebbiolo here a rigour that is not found elsewhere in the Langhe. No flattery, no quick opening. Instead: structure, depth, staying power. The Rosso family has been cultivating these soils for over a century. For the Barolo del Comune, Davide Rosso draws from four parcels that cover the entire breadth of the municipality: Costa Bella in the northern part, south-facing; Broglio, sandy and east-facing in the heart of Serralunga; Sorano, clay-rich, also east-facing; and Meriame, limestone-rich, a more recent acquisition. No single site dominates, the goal is a wine that represents Serralunga as a whole, not just one facet. Hand-picked in mid-October, spontaneous fermentation in concrete tanks for 25 days with daily pumping over and a délestage at half-time. Maturation in 50-hectolitre French oak barrels for 18 to 36 months, depending on the origin of the grapes. Bottled without filtration.