Wines from Piedmont

The name alone conjures up images: La Luna e i Falò – "The moon and the fires". An allusion to Cesare Pavese's novel of the same name, a reflection of a deep-rooted love of one's homeland, melancholic and powerful at the same time. And so is this Barbera from the heart of the Nizza region – deep in the Monferrato – is not just a pleasant wine, but an expression of inner density and grown identity. The grapes come from old vineyards around Agliano Terme, with poor, calcareous soils and optimal south to south-west exposure. After a long maceration period, the wine is aged for 18 months in French barriques, followed by further maturation in the bottle. A Riserva with format, precision and the necessary breath.

Named after Giuseppe Massolino, the charismatic uncle and long-time ambassador of the winery, Gisep is the majestic interpretation of a grape variety that matures to unimagined depth here. The grapes come from high-altitude, old vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba, whose calcareous and clayey soils give the Barbera natural vigour and firm structure. The 2022 vintage, characterised by a warm summer with cooling September nights, produced grapes of exceptional physiological ripeness. The ageing in large oak barrels ensures harmonious tannins and a deep, persistent flavour.

Kyè – piedmontese for "chi è?", who is that? The question is part of the programme. Freisa was once one of the most important grape varieties in Piedmont, then fell into oblivion, displaced by Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto. It is no coincidence that Aldo Vajra, of all people, took it seriously again in 1980: in 2004, genetic research proved what the old winegrowers had long suspected – freisa is the closest relative of Nebbiolo, probably even a parent. The Vajras have been bottling a dry Freisa since 1989 and have thus initiated a renaissance that is setting a precedent today. The grapes for the Kyè come from Aldo's own selezione massal from 1980, planted in San Ponzio at the lower edge of the legendary Bricco delle Viole – the vineyard closest to the winery. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then matured for 26 months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

For over 60 years, the Produttori del Barbaresco have stood for an uncompromising approach to quality, supported by over 50 winegrowers who contribute their best grapes from Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso to the community. The Barbaresco 2022 is a prime example of collective precision and classic style: the Nebbiolo grapes come from selected communal vineyards, some of which are adjacent to the crus, on chalky and clayey soils. Vinification was carried out traditionally: a long maceration period, ageing for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, followed by a further resting period in the bottle.

Obtained from a small, high-altitude vineyard in the historic San Cristoforo cru site above Neive, this Barbaresco combines terroir depth with contemplative maturity. The clay and limestone-rich soil, the exposed south-east exposure and the late harvest characterise the concentrated style. Three weeks of maceration are followed by a long, patient ageing regime: two years in large oak barrels, a further six months in concrete and then many more years in the bottle – until it opens up with the expression that only time can give.

Strongly Nebbiolo-influenced variant of a Langhe Rosso and thus in the impression like a Barolo with the discreetly juicy and fruity component of the Barbera grape. On the nose some cherry and blueberry, then autumn leaves, walnuts and forest floor. Very soft and delicate on the palate, the polished tannins make it seem smoother and more accessible than the Nebbiolo dominance would suggest. A wine of great freshness and complexity, with good structure and made for a long life. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for this elegant Nebbiolo come from the Ravera di Monforte vineyard, a small, calcareous and clayey plot on the south-eastern slope above the village of Monforte d'Alba. It shares its name with the famous Novello cru, but is independent and characterised by stony soils that give the roots depth and minerality. Bright garnet red with a ruby-coloured core. The bouquet opens with clear, youthful fruit: sour cherry, redcurrant and a hint of raspberry, underpinned by violets, dried herbs and a subtle hint of cinnamon. On the palate, the wine is taut and fresh, with precise acidity, ripe tannins and an animating, slightly savoury length. An authentic Nebbiolo from the Langhe that clearly shows its origin and signature in the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

After 35 years at the helm of Vietti, Luca Currado and Elena Penna ventured a new beginning in 2023: Cascina Penna-Currado, an artisanal boutique winery in Serralunga d'Alba, founded together with their children Michele and Giulia. A cascina dating back to 1554, once owned by the Marchesi Falletti, with a 360° view over the Langhe – and a wine that epitomises Elena's long-standing passion: Timorasso. The almost extinct, indigenous white wine variety of Piedmont, revived in the Colli Tortonesi, where Sant'Agata fossilised marl – 20 million years old compacted limestone – provide the typical salinity and minerality. The 15-year-old vines grow in Berzano di Tortona on east-facing slopes. The vinification is ground-breaking: spontaneous fermentation with innovative "submerged cap maceration" – the skins remain submerged, which enables perfect extraction without oxidative notes. 40-45% skin maceration, then maturation on the fine lees in clayver ceramic vats, partial malolactic fermentation.

Some vineyards become the property of a family through strategic acquisition, others through a marriage that unites two Piedmontese families. When Aldo Pola took Luisella from nearby Serracapelli as his wife, this union not only brought two people together, but also the Pola family with the cru that is now one of the most sought-after in the municipality of Neive: Serraboella. Here, on calcareous soils of medium structure, 300 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo thrives in an interpretation that differs from the powerful Bordini – more reserved in its youth, almost shy, but with an elegance that comes to full fruition over the years. What Matteo Pola vinifies from the 30-year-old vines of this single vineyard is a Barbaresco of remarkable harmony – a wine that impresses not with its volume, but with the crystalline precision that characterises great terroirs.

"From the most important grape variety in the Langhe comes a wine that is an introduction to the king of wines." This is how Chiara Boschis describes her Langhe Nebbiolo – and this modesty is programmatic. The winery is located in Castiglione Falletto, one of the seven Barolo communes, overlooking vineyards such as Via Nuova and Mosconi. The Langhe Nebbiolo comes from its own vineyard and the so-called "fasce di rispetto" – those rows that border on conventionally cultivated neighbouring vineyards and are treated with particular care in terms of organic farming. 100% Nebbiolo, soils of calcareous clay in characteristic pale grey and pink-coloured rock – the same geological basis as the Barolo vineyards.

Nubiola is a Barbaresco with inner tension: differentiated, unagitated, but with a clear character. The name refers to historical roots: Vitis Nubiola was the name given to Nebbiolo in the 13th century. Pelissero has revived this term – not out of sentimentality, but because it suits the style of the wine: Complexity instead of posturing, depth instead of effect. The grapes come from various plots around Treiso, on soils of calcareous marl with a fine clay content. The sites complement each other – altitude, exposure, microclimate – to create a complex but harmonious overall picture. The wine is fermented with natural yeast and matured for 18 months in large barrels and tonneaux, all with deliberate restraint so that the structure and origin remain visible.

When Franco Pola bottled the first bottle of his Barbaresco Bordini in 1970, he not only wrote the beginning of a family story, but also symbolised the connection between man and vineyard that lasts for generations. The vineyard bears the same name as the street on which the winery stands – via Bordini 15 – and this geographical coincidence harbours a deeper truth: here, where the winery building looks directly onto the south-east-facing slope, family and terroir are inextricably interwoven. On sandy limestone/clay soil, 280 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo vines 50 to 60 years old take root – one hectare of which is even over 70 years old and ungrafted, a living link to the time when Franco's father Secondo still ran the farm as a farm.

Uvaggio is an old Piedmontese word for what has been practised in the vineyard for centuries: Growing different grape varieties together, harvesting together, pressing together. In Alto Piemonte, this was never an emergency solution, but a conviction – that Nebbiolo brings depth, Vespolina spice and minerality, Croatina colour and suppleness, and that the whole is more than the sum of its parts. Proprietà Sperino has recovered this principle from the historical memory of the region. Paolo De Marchi – who redefined Chianti Classico in Tuscany with Isole & Olena – returned with his son Luca to the family's home in Piedmont, the castle of Lessona, in 1999. Here, in a vaulted cellar that is more than two hundred years old, they have since been producing wines that put Alto Piemonte back on the map of great Italian red wines. The grapes come from the vineyards in Lessona and the Madonna degli Angeli vineyard in Brusnengo, both on those unique marine Pliocene sands on igneous rock that give the wine its unmistakable minerality. Spontaneous fermentation with natural yeasts in open wooden barrels, 23 days of maceration, regular pumping over. Twelve months sur lie, then 22 months in a mixture of barriques and large oval barrels.

When Franco Pola bottled the first bottle of his Barbaresco Bordini in 1970, he not only wrote the beginning of a family story, but also symbolised the connection between man and vineyard that lasts for generations. The vineyard bears the same name as the street on which the winery stands – via Bordini 15 – and this geographical coincidence harbours a deeper truth: here, where the winery building looks directly onto the south-east-facing slope, family and terroir are inextricably interwoven. On sandy limestone/clay soil, 280 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo vines 50 to 60 years old take root – one hectare of which is even over 70 years old and ungrafted, a living link to the time when Franco's father Secondo still ran the farm as a farm.

When Luciano and Luca Sandrone first set eyes on the concave hill of Valmaggiore in the 1990s, it was love at first sight. It wasn't just history that moved them – in the 19th century, the Nebbiolo grapes from this vineyard dictated the price for the entire area – but above all the unique combination of sandy soils and the microclimate of this natural amphitheatre. In Vezza d'Alba, on the left bank of the Tanaro in the Roero, lies this south-facing single vineyard with extremely steep slopes, where soft sandy soils give the Nebbiolo the finesse and elegance for which the Roero region is famous.

Bright ruby colour with a purple shimmer. The bouquet is fresh and youthful: red cherries, crisp plums, a hint of cranberry and subtle floral nuances. Straightforward on the palate, with clear fruit, present, animating acidity and a fine spicy finish. Thanks to its maturation in stainless steel, it is particularly appealing to drink and shows the unadorned, fruit-emphasised character of the grape variety. A juicy and serious Barbera that clearly expresses its origins and is great fun even when young. SUPERIORE.DE

In a privileged plot south of the legendary Bricco Boschis lies the Cavallottos' insider tip: Vigna Cuculo. Here, where normally only Nebbiolo should grow, the brothers Giuseppe and Alfio have achieved an oenological miracle – a Barbera cru that combines its Piedmontese soul with the aristocratic elegance of its great Barolo neighbours. The name "Cuculo" – the cuckoo – could not be more poetic for this wine, which asserts itself like a stranger in royal territory while developing its very own identity. The plot benefits from the unique microclimate of Bricco Boschis, that geological treasure where different soils meet in a symphony of limestone, marl and sand layers. This soil complexity gives the Barbera grape a minerality and structure that goes far beyond what is normally expected from this grape variety. West-south-west exposure and the chalky-clayey soils create ideal conditions for a wine of exceptional depth.

From the historic Mosconi cru hillside in Monforte d'Alba: Fides is Pio Cesare's clear commitment to the Barbera grape – for years from a singular parcel, with the strictest yield limits and tiny production. Hand-picked, followed by fermentation in stainless steel with around 30 days of maceration; malolactic fermentation takes place gently in tanks. Ageing: around 20 months in large oak barrels (botti), a small proportion in French barriques – enough to anchor depth and texture without masking the origin.

Massolino's Barbaresco is the quintessence of finely balanced terroir: Nebbiolo grapes from the Starderi, Albesani and Serraboella cru sites mature together to create a complex yet transparent wine. The 2022 vintage provided a balanced climate – warm days and cool nights – which harmoniously blends freshness, finesse and aromatic richness. The colour in the glass is a medium garnet red with bright reflections. The nose exudes a velvety elegance of red fruits, violets, delicate lavender, spicy notes, crushed rock and a hint of orange peel – pure, lively fragrance with contoured clarity. A medium body full of energy unfolds on the palate: silky tannins, lively acidity and polished, mineral tension are the carriers of a fruit-emphasised depth. The finish lingers for a long time – intensely floral, spicy and with vibrant freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

Some vineyards become the property of a family through strategic acquisition, others through a marriage that unites two Piedmontese families. When Aldo Pola took Luisella from nearby Serracapelli as his wife, this union not only brought two people together, but also the Pola family with the cru that is now one of the most sought-after in the municipality of Neive: Serraboella. Here, on calcareous soils of medium structure, 300 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo thrives in an interpretation that differs from the powerful Bordini – more reserved in its youth, almost shy, but with an elegance that comes to full fruition over the years. What Matteo Pola vinifies from the 30-year-old vines of this single vineyard is a Barbaresco of remarkable harmony – a wine that impresses not with its volume, but with the crystalline precision that characterises great terroirs.