Wines from Piedmont

The Nebbiolo grapes for Matteo's entry-level Barolo come from his three vineyards Serralunga d'Alba, La Morra and Verduno. His style is characterised by a skilful balance between structural depth and accessibility. Brilliant ruby colour with a lively shimmer in the glass. The nose is elegant and multifaceted: wild berries, rose petals, aniseed and a fine herbal note interweave with a delicate undertone of mineral freshness. The tannin structure appears finely integrated in the mouth; clearly defined fruit and present, invigorating acidity characterise the first impression. The finish shows salty residues and an attractive length – elegant, powerful and stylish. This Barolo is a very successful introduction to the region, accessible enough to be enjoyed young, but open to time and ageing. It exemplifies a modern interpretation of the Barolo narrative: without much pathos, but with depth and origin. SUPERIORE.DE

Nizza is the youngest and at the same time most demanding DOCG in Piedmont. Officially recognised in 2014, originating as a subzone of Barbera d'Asti Superiore from the turn of the millennium, it comprises 18 carefully selected municipalities of Monferrato, all concentrated on those hilly, calcareous-sandy soils of the tertiary sedimentary layers that give Barbera its characteristic depth and minerality. Tenuta Olim Bauda has been one of its most convincing interpreters right from the start. The vineyards are located in the heart of the production zone, between Nizza Monferrato and Incisa Scapaccino, sandy-loamy soils on exposed south-facing slopes, historical vines next to younger plots. Hand-picked in the first and second week of October, pressing in the evening, fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature. Then matured for 30 months in 25-hectolitre French Allier oak barrels – more time than required by the Riserva regulations, and that was a conscious decision.

There are said to be vineyards in Piedmont that do not like Nebbiolo. The Vigneto Fossati in the highest location in the municipality of Barolo is one of them: gravelly-sandy soil, morning sun exposure, 420 to 450 metres. Aldo Vajra planted it with Riesling in 1985 – out of conviction, which sounded rather provocative at the time. A second vineyard chapter was added: the Cascina Bertoni in Sinio, exposed to the north-east, calcareous and homogeneous. Pétracine, whose name means "Riesling" in Piedmontese, comes from both vineyards – and at the same time sounds like stone and roots. The clonal vines come from the Rhine, the Moselle, the Palatinate and Alsace: austere German minerality meets Alsatian creaminess and Piedmontese terroir. Gentle pressing, short cold clarification, 15 to 20 days fermentation in steel, ageing in stainless steel until spring – no intervention that does not serve the precision of this rare wine.

Disanfrancesco – di San Francesco. Two plots in La Morra that bear the name of St Francis and are located right next to Brunate, the famous MGA from which the great Voerzio Baroli come. If you want to understand what that means, you just need to know: Roberto Voerzio is considered one of the producers with the lowest yields in the entire Barolo zone. Less than one bottle per vine. The first vintage of Disanfrancesco was released in 2001 – when Voerzio made the decision to vinify his best Nebbiolo below the Barolo appellation: more accessible, drinkable earlier, but still with the relentless vineyard philosophy of the house. South-east exposure, around 450 metres, 6,000 to 8,000 vines per hectare, maximum 1.5 kilograms per vine. Natural yeasts, steel, then 12 months in tonneaux at 30% new, followed by a further 8 months in 25-hectolitre barrels and steel. No filtration, no fining, no intervention.

While the white Oudeis captures the complexity of the Alta Langa in its purest form, its pink-coloured brother adds another dimension: the soul of Pinot Nero. Because here it is the red grape alone that expresses the terroir. Saignée, the French word for "bloodletting", describes the method: a short maceration on the skins extracts just enough colour and fruit from the must to achieve that shimmering onion skin tone that shines so seductively in the glass. The grapes come from altitudes between 300 and 550 metres in the municipalities of Bubbio, Loazzolo, Trezzo Tinella and Vesime – the grapes come from calcareous clay soils, which give the wine its mineral tension. After manual harvesting, the grapes are cooled with carbon dioxide snow and the must is left to rest for two to four hours under nitrogen before gentle pressing. This is followed by six months of bâtonnage and 36 months of yeast storage in the historic cellar vaults.

The name says it all – and a piece of wine history. Maggiorina refers to a training system that is older than viticulture in the Langhe: three vines grow at the four cardinal points, a pre-Roman legacy perfected in the 19th century by Alessandro Antonelli, the architect of the Mole Antonelliana, born in nearby Maggiora. What sounds like a folkloristic detail today is reality: Christoph Künzli cultivates these 80 to 100-year-old vines exclusively by hand – machines have no access here. More than ten indigenous grape varieties, both red and white, come together in the glass: Croatina and Nebbiolo form the foundation, Vespolina, Erbaluce, Malvasia and almost forgotten varieties such as Durasa, Slarina and Rastajola complete the ensemble. After spontaneous fermentation and brief maceration, the wine matures for twelve months in stainless steel.

In the rolling hills of Castelnuovo Calcea lies the Montemareto vineyard, a privileged parcel in the heart of the Nice DOCG zone, where Michele Chiarlo has relied on old, low-yielding Barbera vines for decades. The 2021 vintage benefited from a balanced vegetation cycle: a mild spring, warm, dry summer months and cool September nights resulted in perfectly ripe, concentrated berries. A deep ruby red colour with violet hues shines in the glass. The bouquet opens with juicy black cherry, ripe plums and dark berries, underpinned by violets, liquorice and fine roasted aromas. On the palate, the Barbera is powerful and supple at the same time, with rich fruit, present but well-integrated acidity and a fine-grained tannin that lends structure. The long, harmonious finish carries notes of sweet tobacco, herbs and a subtle almond flavour. A Barbera wine of remarkable depth and balance – full of character, storable and a worthy ambassador of the Nice terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

With around two grams of residual sugar, this high-quality spumante from the Alta Langa, which was produced using the champagne method, is a particularly dry representative of its kind. The Chardonnay grapes come from clay and limestone terroir around 450 metres above sea level in the small municipality of Neviglie. Fresh and floral on the nose with beautiful citrus and subtle yeast notes. Fine perlage, harmonious on the palate with a fine creaminess and a multi-layered finish. SUPERIORE.DE

As usual, the grapes come from a selection of old vines from the Mosconi, Gabutti and Ravera parcels, whose chalky and clayey soils lend the wines fine minerality and structure. The wines are matured separately by vineyard for around 12 months in used barriques before the cuvée is blended. Dense ruby red colour with a purple core – a glance into the glass already reveals the depth of this vintage. The bouquet reveals a multi-layered aroma of ripe cherry, plum and dark berries, accompanied by hints of violet, liquorice and a touch of dried herbs. Juicy and focussed on the palate, with lively acidity, ripe fruit and supple tannins. The 2023 appears a touch fresher and more youthful than its predecessor, but retains the balance of regional roots and the finely nuanced style for which Chiara Boschis is known. SUPERIORE.DE

The still young DOC Colli Tortonesi is probably still one of the least known wine regions in Piedmont. The term Derthona is already used as a generic term. It is the old name for Tortona, a small village in the centre of the DOC. The indigenous white grape variety Timorasso led a shadowy existence for many years, but today some winegrowers are already calling it the "white Barolo". This is due to its great complexity and finesse on the one hand and the excellent ageing potential of the wines on the other. In addition, the grapes often vary in size and ripeness during the harvest, which makes selection a major challenge, just as with the great Nebbiolo crus.

Arneis means "little rascal" in Piedmontese – the little pain in the arse. Difficult to grow, prone to over-ripening, almost forgotten for decades. Bruno Giacosa was one of two producers who saved the grape variety from extinction in the late 1960s by bottling and marketing it as a single variety – at a time when hardly anyone understood why. Today, it is impossible to imagine the Roero without Arneis. And the Giacosa specimen remains the reference. The grapes come from selected vineyards in Vezza d'Alba, Monteu Roero, Santo Stefano Roero, Canale and Montà d'Alba – long-standing suppliers that Bruno Giacosa has personally selected. Foreign vineyards, own signature. 23 to 34-year-old vines on the sandy soils of the Roero, the ancient seabed north of the Tanaro, which gives the Arneis a natural lightness and aromatic strength that clay terroirs never achieve. Vinification purist: spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel tanks, 25 to 30 days, without malolactic fermentation – the freshness and acidity remain intact. Four months sur lie, one month bottle ageing. Bottled in February 2025, no wood, no intervention that is not necessary.

The name alone conjures up images: La Luna e i Falò – "The moon and the fires". An allusion to Cesare Pavese's novel of the same name, a reflection of a deep-rooted love of one's homeland, melancholic and powerful at the same time. And so is this Barbera from the heart of the Nizza region – deep in the Monferrato – is not just a pleasant wine, but an expression of inner density and grown identity. The grapes come from old vineyards around Agliano Terme, with poor, calcareous soils and optimal south to south-west exposure. After a long maceration period, the wine is aged for 18 months in French barriques, followed by further maturation in the bottle. A Riserva with format, precision and the necessary breath.

Named after Giuseppe Massolino, the charismatic uncle and long-time ambassador of the winery, Gisep is the majestic interpretation of a grape variety that matures to unimagined depth here. The grapes come from high-altitude, old vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba, whose calcareous and clayey soils give the Barbera natural vigour and firm structure. The 2022 vintage, characterised by a warm summer with cooling September nights, produced grapes of exceptional physiological ripeness. The ageing in large oak barrels ensures harmonious tannins and a deep, persistent flavour.

Kyè – piedmontese for "chi è?", who is that? The question is part of the programme. Freisa was once one of the most important grape varieties in Piedmont, then fell into oblivion, displaced by Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto. It is no coincidence that Aldo Vajra, of all people, took it seriously again in 1980: in 2004, genetic research proved what the old winegrowers had long suspected – freisa is the closest relative of Nebbiolo, probably even a parent. The Vajras have been bottling a dry Freisa since 1989 and have thus initiated a renaissance that is setting a precedent today. The grapes for the Kyè come from Aldo's own selezione massal from 1980, planted in San Ponzio at the lower edge of the legendary Bricco delle Viole – the vineyard closest to the winery. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then matured for 26 months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

For over 60 years, the Produttori del Barbaresco have stood for an uncompromising approach to quality, supported by over 50 winegrowers who contribute their best grapes from Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso to the community. The Barbaresco 2022 is a prime example of collective precision and classic style: the Nebbiolo grapes come from selected communal vineyards, some of which are adjacent to the crus, on chalky and clayey soils. Vinification was carried out traditionally: a long maceration period, ageing for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, followed by a further resting period in the bottle.

Obtained from a small, high-altitude vineyard in the historic San Cristoforo cru site above Neive, this Barbaresco combines terroir depth with contemplative maturity. The clay and limestone-rich soil, the exposed south-east exposure and the late harvest characterise the concentrated style. Three weeks of maceration are followed by a long, patient ageing regime: two years in large oak barrels, a further six months in concrete and then many more years in the bottle – until it opens up with the expression that only time can give.

Strongly Nebbiolo-influenced variant of a Langhe Rosso and thus in the impression like a Barolo with the discreetly juicy and fruity component of the Barbera grape. On the nose some cherry and blueberry, then autumn leaves, walnuts and forest floor. Very soft and delicate on the palate, the polished tannins make it seem smoother and more accessible than the Nebbiolo dominance would suggest. A wine of great freshness and complexity, with good structure and made for a long life. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for this elegant Nebbiolo come from the Ravera di Monforte vineyard, a small, calcareous and clayey plot on the south-eastern slope above the village of Monforte d'Alba. It shares its name with the famous Novello cru, but is independent and characterised by stony soils that give the roots depth and minerality. Bright garnet red with a ruby-coloured core. The bouquet opens with clear, youthful fruit: sour cherry, redcurrant and a hint of raspberry, underpinned by violets, dried herbs and a subtle hint of cinnamon. On the palate, the wine is taut and fresh, with precise acidity, ripe tannins and an animating, slightly savoury length. An authentic Nebbiolo from the Langhe that clearly shows its origin and signature in the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

After 35 years at the helm of Vietti, Luca Currado and Elena Penna ventured a new beginning in 2023: Cascina Penna-Currado, an artisanal boutique winery in Serralunga d'Alba, founded together with their children Michele and Giulia. A cascina dating back to 1554, once owned by the Marchesi Falletti, with a 360° view over the Langhe – and a wine that epitomises Elena's long-standing passion: Timorasso. The almost extinct, indigenous white wine variety of Piedmont, revived in the Colli Tortonesi, where Sant'Agata fossilised marl – 20 million years old compacted limestone – provide the typical salinity and minerality. The 15-year-old vines grow in Berzano di Tortona on east-facing slopes. The vinification is ground-breaking: spontaneous fermentation with innovative "submerged cap maceration" – the skins remain submerged, which enables perfect extraction without oxidative notes. 40-45% skin maceration, then maturation on the fine lees in clayver ceramic vats, partial malolactic fermentation.

Some vineyards become the property of a family through strategic acquisition, others through a marriage that unites two Piedmontese families. When Aldo Pola took Luisella from nearby Serracapelli as his wife, this union not only brought two people together, but also the Pola family with the cru that is now one of the most sought-after in the municipality of Neive: Serraboella. Here, on calcareous soils of medium structure, 300 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo thrives in an interpretation that differs from the powerful Bordini – more reserved in its youth, almost shy, but with an elegance that comes to full fruition over the years. What Matteo Pola vinifies from the 30-year-old vines of this single vineyard is a Barbaresco of remarkable harmony – a wine that impresses not with its volume, but with the crystalline precision that characterises great terroirs.

"From the most important grape variety in the Langhe comes a wine that is an introduction to the king of wines." This is how Chiara Boschis describes her Langhe Nebbiolo – and this modesty is programmatic. The winery is located in Castiglione Falletto, one of the seven Barolo communes, overlooking vineyards such as Via Nuova and Mosconi. The Langhe Nebbiolo comes from its own vineyard and the so-called "fasce di rispetto" – those rows that border on conventionally cultivated neighbouring vineyards and are treated with particular care in terms of organic farming. 100% Nebbiolo, soils of calcareous clay in characteristic pale grey and pink-coloured rock – the same geological basis as the Barolo vineyards.

Nubiola is a Barbaresco with inner tension: differentiated, unagitated, but with a clear character. The name refers to historical roots: Vitis Nubiola was the name given to Nebbiolo in the 13th century. Pelissero has revived this term – not out of sentimentality, but because it suits the style of the wine: Complexity instead of posturing, depth instead of effect. The grapes come from various plots around Treiso, on soils of calcareous marl with a fine clay content. The sites complement each other – altitude, exposure, microclimate – to create a complex but harmonious overall picture. The wine is fermented with natural yeast and matured for 18 months in large barrels and tonneaux, all with deliberate restraint so that the structure and origin remain visible.