Wines from Piedmont

As you know, at Roagna there are no afterthoughts. When Luca Roagna, the fifth generation of this legendary Barbaresco dynasty, makes Dolcetto, it is not as a stopgap between the great Nebbiolos, but as a testament to its substance. The grapes come from 45-year-old vines in the prestigious Pajé and Asili vineyards, where the iconic Barbaresco wines are usually produced. Pajé, with its chalk-rich marl soils and high proportion of active chalk, Asili, with its east-facing clay-limestone soils and distinctive sandy content – these are no ordinary Dolcetto terroirs. The winemaking process follows the Roagna philosophy: ten days' fermentation in large wooden vats with indigenous yeasts, followed by 90 to 100 days' contact with the skins – a maceration period that even many Barolos do not undergo. After approximately ten months' ageing in wooden and concrete vats, the wine is bottled unfiltered.

Medium golden yellow in colour with bright reflections. The Chardonnay grapes come from selected plots in the Langhe, whose later harvest gives the wine aromatic depth and a fine melting flavour. In the cellar, the wine is carefully matured according to the Burgundian school: temperature-controlled fermentation, long maturation on the fine lees, a targeted proportion in wood to promote complexity and structure without overpowering the freshness.

Oudeis – nobody. When the cunning Odysseus outwitted the Cyclops Polyphemus, he gave it this name. Enrico Serafino's Alta Langa bears this name out of humility: no one is responsible for the complexity of this wine – only the terroir. A philosophical bow to the high altitudes of the Alta Langa, the Piedmontese plateau that Enrico Serafino has pioneered the Metodo Classico since 1991. The grapes – 85% Pinot Nero, 15% Chardonnay – come from vineyards between 300 and 550 metres above sea level in the municipalities of Mango, Trezza Tinella, Loazzolo, San Giorgio and Bubbio. After manual harvesting and gentle whole-cluster pressing, the must ferments in stainless steel, followed by six months of bâtonnage. The second fermentation and ageing on the lees takes place over 36 months in the historic underground cellars – protected from light, temperature-controlled, timeless.

The single-varietal Croatina Pertichetta presents itself in a medium-deep ruby garnet. In the full bouquet we discover fleshy notes, clove, untanned leather and dark chocolate tones. On the palate, initially with a nice balance, crisp tannins take over in the middle course (when young), before the long finish with present, ripe sour cherry tones and a beguiling depth. Not a wine for everyday entertainment, but a complex, powerful and extremely serious red, which should ideally be treated with the necessary seriousness only in a few years - reward guaranteed! SUPERIORE.DE

The vines are planted where the Piedmont slopes gently at Canelli and the Barbera grape can develop its depth. The name is reminiscent of Cesare Pavese, the great son of these hills – and his most famous work "La Luna e i Falò". Like the novel, this wine also carries a quiet melancholy, paired with expression, maturity and identity. Matured in barriques and large casks for around a year, this is a Barbera full of character and at the same time modern.

A fascinating Pinot Nero with the structure of a Nebbiolo. Fine cherry flavour with well-dosed extract sweetness, plus rose petals, mint and some Asian herbal spice. The wine prances on the palate with elegant restraint, revealing its finesse and structure on the third sip at the latest and with a medium-bodied finish. This is a wine for Pinot fans as well as lovers of subtle, subtle styles - and clearly love at second sight. SUPERIORE.DE

The best plots around Monleale, from which the grapes for the Derthona Timorasso come, cover just 11 hectares. They are located in the Apennine and pre-Apennine hills of the Marca Obertenga, the soils contain mainly marl and clayey layers. The deep bouquet has green and yellow fruit notes, orange confit, graphite, mint and a hint of camomile. On the palate, it marches straight ahead with that certain exotic something, its pleasantly fresh acidity and fine tannin into a long finish with an attractive bitterness of citrus peel reminiscent of chinotto and a mineral vein. The 12-month contact during fermentation in stainless steel on the lees ensures that it gains in depth and complexity with each year of further bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

There is a poetic play on words behind this rare white wine: Pinner – born from PINot NERo, as if the name itself were a wink from the Cavallottos. On the north-eastern slopes of the Cru Vignolo, original Champagne clones of Pinot Nero have been rooted in chalky-clayey soils with veins of sand since 1972 – a geological rarity that gives this Blanc de Noirs its unmistakable minerality. The vinification is a balancing act between tradition and innovation: after the gentlest pneumatic pressing without skin contact, the must ferments for 45 days at a cool 16-18°C in stainless steel tanks. Nine months of sur lie ageing with daily bâtonnage create the creamy texture that distinguishes Pinner from simple white wines.

Giacosa grows Dolcetto on the Falletto – that cru in Serralunga d'Alba which seems made for Nebbiolo and for wines that take decades to develop. No other estate in Piedmont would do this so matter-of-factly. The monopoly in Serralunga, supplemented by plots in Lirano di Sinio, provides the Dolcetto with soils otherwise reserved for Barolo – rich in limestone, structurally robust, with a minerality that has characterised this site for generations. The vinification is restrained: 8 to 10 days’ maceration in wood, full malolactic fermentation, then 6 months in steel, one month in bottle. The south-western and western exposure, the soils of Serralunga – all of this shapes the character without anyone needing to intervene.

Some wines are named after vineyard sites, others after grape varieties. This one is named after a person: Domenico Staropoli, known as Mimmo, who tended the vineyards of Le Piane for many years. When he died, Christoph Künzli dedicated this wine to him – not as a sentimental gesture, but in recognition of the quiet work without which no great wine can be produced. The Mimmo is more than just a "little Boca". Its Nebbiolo components come from the same plots, are vinified to the same standards, and it is only after two years' barrel ageing that a tasting determines which components will become the Boca and which the Mimmo. The Nebbiolo is complemented by Croatina and Vespolina from century-old vines at Montalbano and Santuario. Twelve months in tonneaux, followed by twelve months in large Slavonian botti – time that you can really taste.

Not far from the Cortese vineyards lies Libarna, an ancient Roman settlement. A bronze disc from the 1st century BC was found there – an astronomical calendar for measuring Roman cities. Today, this Libarna disc adorns the label of the "Poggio della Rupe" line and connects millennia: Wine was grown here even before the Romans. The Monterotondo comes from a single vineyard in the heart of Gavi, where gypsum-rich, sulphurous soils give the Cortese an unrivalled complexity. Thirty-five-year-old vines yield grapes for just 2,500 bottles. After fermentation in stainless steel, the wine matures for six to seven months on the fine lees – an ageing process that gives it depth and structure without sacrificing freshness.

Roberto Voerzio founded his cantina in La Morra in 1986. The address is Loc. Il Cerreto is the home vineyard, the house's place of origin, the plot of land where it all began. The Barbera that grows here therefore comes from the garden of the man who was one of the first to make the Langhe internationally famous as a terroir producer. Voerzio treats his Cerreto vineyard no differently to his famous Barolo vineyards: only natural manure from Alpine cows, no herbicides, no chemical intervention. A maximum of one kilogramme of grapes per vine. Hand-picked. Fermentation in steel, 12 to 14 days on the skins. Maturation in tonneaux (70% new) and large 25-hectolitre barrels for a total of 12 months, followed by a further 8 months in steel. No filtration. No intervention that changes the character of the wine – this is Voerzio's principle for every wine of the house, without exception. In his own words: "Time does not make the wine great – time unfolds what is in it from the start."

It was no coincidence, but opportunity, that Roberto Voerzio embarked on a new adventure in Monferrato a few years ago. As the latest addition to his exquisite collection, he put himself to the test as a passionate Barbera lover by acquiring some plots of land near Canelli and Nizza Monferrato. These are vineyards that are around 35 years old with clay and limestone soil, which gives the wine complexity and minerality. The old planting was then greatly reduced according to his modus operandi: to 3,500 to 8,000 vines per hectare with a production of less than 1 kg (!) per plant. Fermentation and maceration take place in steel tanks using indigenous yeasts, malolactic fermentation and ageing take place in barriques (70% used) for 12 months and then in steel tanks for a few months before bottling without filtration.

In Roagnas Bianco, history, terroir and the winemaker's personal touch come together in a way that is unrivalled in Piedmont. This cuvée, made predominantly from Chardonnay with a small proportion of Nebbiolo (vinified as white), comes from old vineyards around Barbaresco – sites otherwise reserved for great reds. The soil: calcareous marl with marine inclusions. The philosophy: absolute naturalness, from pest control to vinification. Following the slow pressing of whole grapes, spontaneous fermentation takes place using the vineyard's own yeasts. The wine is aged for around 18 months in large, used barrels, during which time Luca Roagna deliberately refrains from technical interventions – no fining, no filtration, and minimal sulphur addition.

This wine bears the small print name Viola delle Viole, although its fruit comes from the Bricco delle Viole and Bricco Bertone vineyards, two sites with different soil types, one of which provides structure and the other aromatic purity. Opens with a dark, almost impenetrable appearance. Powerful aromas of blackberry jam and preserved cherries unfold on the nose. You can feel its warmth and richness and there is no way around it. It is a super-sized Barbera that goes one better in terms of extraction and intensity. The finish is almost sweet, followed by good acidity. It shows great aromatic perfection, length and a very accentuated style. SUPERIORE.DE

While Franciacorta has long enjoyed worldwide fame, a quiet revolution is taking place in the hills of the Alta Langa. Here, where the Piedmontese provinces of Cuneo, Alessandria and Asti stretch towards the Ligurian Apennines, the sparkling wine that impresses connoisseurs with its freshness, precision and mineral depth is produced at an altitude of up to 700 metres. Pecchenino, which has been in family hands since the late 18th century and is traditionally known for its great Dolcetto and Barolo, ventured into this small but fine DOCG in 2012 with impressive success – with impressive success. The name "Psea" refers to the village of Pezzea in the municipality of Bossolasco, where Chardonnay and Pinot Nero are rooted in chalky soils at an altitude of 700 metres. The cool climate with pronounced day-night temperature fluctuations enables optimal ripening while maintaining lively acidity – the freshness that makes Alta Langa so unique. The cuvée of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Nero first undergoes alcoholic fermentation in steel tanks before maturing for nine months in barriques. Bottling is followed by 36 months on the lees before the wine is disgorged as a pas dosé, i.e. without any dosage.

Nizza is the youngest and at the same time most demanding DOCG in Piedmont. Officially recognised in 2014, originating as a subzone of Barbera d'Asti Superiore from the turn of the millennium, it comprises 18 carefully selected municipalities of Monferrato, all concentrated on those hilly, calcareous-sandy soils of the tertiary sedimentary layers that give Barbera its characteristic depth and minerality. Tenuta Olim Bauda has been one of its most convincing interpreters right from the start. The vineyards are located in the heart of the production zone, between Nizza Monferrato and Incisa Scapaccino, sandy-loamy soils on exposed south-facing slopes, historical vines next to younger plots. Hand-picked in the first and second week of October, pressing in the evening, fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature. Then matured for 30 months in 25-hectolitre French Allier oak barrels – more time than required by the Riserva regulations, and that was a conscious decision.

There are said to be vineyards in Piedmont that do not like Nebbiolo. The Vigneto Fossati in the highest location in the municipality of Barolo is one of them: gravelly-sandy soil, morning sun exposure, 420 to 450 metres. Aldo Vajra planted it with Riesling in 1985 – out of conviction, which sounded rather provocative at the time. A second vineyard chapter was added: the Cascina Bertoni in Sinio, exposed to the north-east, calcareous and homogeneous. Pétracine, whose name means "Riesling" in Piedmontese, comes from both vineyards – and at the same time sounds like stone and roots. The clonal vines come from the Rhine, the Moselle, the Palatinate and Alsace: austere German minerality meets Alsatian creaminess and Piedmontese terroir. Gentle pressing, short cold clarification, 15 to 20 days fermentation in steel, ageing in stainless steel until spring – no intervention that does not serve the precision of this rare wine.

Disanfrancesco – di San Francesco. Two plots in La Morra that bear the name of St Francis and are located right next to Brunate, the famous MGA from which the great Voerzio Baroli come. If you want to understand what that means, you just need to know: Roberto Voerzio is considered one of the producers with the lowest yields in the entire Barolo zone. Less than one bottle per vine. The first vintage of Disanfrancesco was released in 2001 – when Voerzio made the decision to vinify his best Nebbiolo below the Barolo appellation: more accessible, drinkable earlier, but still with the relentless vineyard philosophy of the house. South-east exposure, around 450 metres, 6,000 to 8,000 vines per hectare, maximum 1.5 kilograms per vine. Natural yeasts, steel, then 12 months in tonneaux at 30% new, followed by a further 8 months in 25-hectolitre barrels and steel. No filtration, no fining, no intervention.

While the white Oudeis captures the complexity of the Alta Langa in its purest form, its pink-coloured brother adds another dimension: the soul of Pinot Nero. Because here it is the red grape alone that expresses the terroir. Saignée, the French word for "bloodletting", describes the method: a short maceration on the skins extracts just enough colour and fruit from the must to achieve that shimmering onion skin tone that shines so seductively in the glass. The grapes come from altitudes between 300 and 550 metres in the municipalities of Bubbio, Loazzolo, Trezzo Tinella and Vesime – the grapes come from calcareous clay soils, which give the wine its mineral tension. After manual harvesting, the grapes are cooled with carbon dioxide snow and the must is left to rest for two to four hours under nitrogen before gentle pressing. This is followed by six months of bâtonnage and 36 months of yeast storage in the historic cellar vaults.