Wines from Piedmont

The Bordini vineyard in Neive, sun-kissed and situated on calcareous, slightly sandy soils, has been known for generations for Nebbiolo with natural vigour and fine contours. The 2022 vintage brought a warm, dry growing climate, which, thanks to cool nights and precise harvest, produced grapes with intense aromas and optimal phenolic ripeness. The colour in the glass is a rich ruby with a slight garnet hue. The nose is inviting and multi-layered: juicy plum, ripe strawberry and the warm aroma of crushed nutmeg interweave with rose petals, orange peel, a hint of dried herbs and fine spice. On the palate, the wine reveals its dual nature – generous red-fleshed fruit paired with the classic Nebbiolo structure that characterises Bordini. Velvety but noticeable tannins provide backbone, while the lively acidity keeps the rich fruit in balance and lends freshness and energy to the powerful body. The finish is long, savoury and infused with a fine mineral vein – a Barbaresco full of expressiveness that harmoniously combines the essence of the vineyard and vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

Albe! ... the poetic name of this Barolo refers to the sky at sunrise, as experienced by the various terroirs of the estate: Coste di Vergne, Fossati and La Volta. These high-altitude sites each produce slightly different dawns, which is symbolically reflected in the harmony of the cuvée. The grapes come from young but ripe Nebbiolo vines and combine the nuances of each parcel to create a flowing, elegant expression. The grapes were carefully harvested by hand, each parcel was vinified separately and only combined into a cuvée in the spring before bottling. The wine is matured for around 36 months in large Slavonian oak barrels (40–75 hl) with annual racking – a maturation that allows for depth and harmony.

A Riserva that only comes into being when the year allows it – and which makes a promise with its name: Essenze stands for the essence of the grape variety, the terroir and the time. The grapes come exclusively from the best cru sites in the municipalities of Barolo, Monforte, Serralunga, La Morra and Castiglione Falletto. Each parcel is vinified separately, carefully monitored, matured – and finally composed like a mosaic. The result: a Riserva Barolo that does not need to be loud to radiate authority. It is only bottled in exceptional years such as 2015 – after more than 42 months of ageing in large barrels and barriques.

Vigneto Gallina is a parcel with iconic status and is located in the core area of the famous Barbaresco Gallina vineyard, north of Neive. Vines with an average age of around 55 years are rooted on south-facing slopes with calcareous marl and sandy inclusions – an expression of terroir, history and origin, carried in every drop.

Stefano Conterno is the more experimental of the three brothers – the one who likes to break new ground, while Franco and Giacomo would rather have a few more bottles of their legendary Baroli. But there is a method to Stefano's "playfulness": since its premiere in 1997, the Quartetto has been a bold answer to the question of whether international grape varieties can also be cultivated in the sacred hills of Bussia. The answer is yes, if you do it right. The name already reveals the concept: four grape varieties in a harmonious composition. 40 per cent Nebbiolo forms the Piedmontese backbone, plus 20 per cent each of Pinot Noir, Merlot and Syrah. All the grapes come from the Bussia zone, are harvested by hand in mid-October, vinified separately and matured in French barriques before Franco carries out the blending with a masterful hand. The result is a wine that combines race, elegance and impressive fullness without being overly flavoured.

A wine with origin and signature: The grapes come from the renowned Scarrone vineyard directly below Castiglione Falletto – a warm south-east exposure with calcareous marl soils. Vietti cultivates the vineyard organically and vinifies the Vigna Scarrone with respect for the grape variety and terroir. Temperature-controlled maceration is followed by ageing in large barrels and used barriques – an approach that promotes both structure and elegance.

Aldo Conterno was an exception among the Piedmontese Barolo producers – one of the few who gave Barbera the attention it deserved. While his colleagues dismissed the variety as an everyday wine, Conterno recognised its potential. The Conca Tre Pile is a steep, hilly slope in the Bussia Soprana, planted entirely with Barbera – vines up to 45 years old, rooted in the legendary terroir that usually produces the great Barolo. This is no ordinary Barbera. This is Barbera on a par with the greats. The grapes are harvested by hand at the beginning of October. After eight to ten days of maceration at 26 to 28 degrees in stainless steel tanks, the wine is racked, pumped over several times and then filled into 100 per cent new French barriques, where it matures for twelve months. An unusual amount of wood for Barbera – but it works for Conterno. The natural acidity of the variety absorbs the wood, integrates the vanilla and spice flavours and transforms them into complexity rather than dominance.

Ruby red in colour with a violet hue. Ripe cherry, blackberry and violet on the nose, with a hint of herbal spice. Juicy, fresh and precise on the palate, carried by fine tannins and lively, pure-toned fruit. The pure stainless steel maturation reinforces the varietal character. Winemaker Chiara Boschis is regarded as a pioneer of organic winegrowing in Piedmont – her tireless, quality-driven work and likeable personality characterise each of her wines. SUPERIORE.DE

Deep, bright ruby red colour. A concentrated, multi-layered aroma of ripe black cherry, blackberry and cassis on the nose, with hints of violet, liquorice and a touch of graphite. On the palate, the Falletto is remarkably dense and structured: juicy, dark fruit, present, finely balanced acidity and tannins with a fine grain that give the wine contour and length. The partial ageing in wood lends additional depth and a fine, spicy nuance without masking the freshness of the grape variety. A Barbera of rare precision that impressively brings the excellence of the Falletto vineyards in Serralunga to the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

Matteo Ascheri is fascinated by the grape varieties of the Rhône Valley and produces an extremely small quantity of top-class single-varietal Syrah every year. What is also special about this wine is that it is not a stereotypical example of the well-known great Syrahs from California, France and Australia - quite the opposite: this is a balsamic wine with an intense bouquet of cherry, rosemary and traces of ginger. On the palate, it shines with freshness, intensity and an exciting potpourri of teriyaki spice, smoke, cherry and notes of smoked meat. Its impressive texture and a full, long finish make this Syrah experience unforgettable! SUPERIORE.DE

"Il ritorno alle origini." This is how Matteo Ascheri describes his new Barolo. In an appellation that has been increasingly focussing on single vineyards for decades, this is a deliberate approach: not a single parcel, but a careful selection from the best vineyards of the house. Thoroughness and uncompromisingness, not in the vineyard alone, but continued with the same meticulousness in the cellar. Seven generations of experience, a clear statement. 100% Nebbiolo, hand-picked between 5 and 20 October – when the Nebbiolo in the Langhe reaches its ripening point, not earlier. Fermentation for 14 days at 28°C. What follows takes time: Storage potential of 20 to 25 years. 2021 was a year of great elegance in the Langhe – even ripeness, cool nights, precise phenolic structure. Wine Spectator has included the 2021 in its Top 100. The wine explains why.

The vineyards of the Reyna site in the hills of Neive and Barbaresco benefit from an ideal south-east to south-west exposure and reddish limestone marl, which is loosened up by sandy inclusions. The grapes are deliberately harvested late in order to achieve optimum physiological ripeness. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine matures for around 18 months in large Allier and Slavonian oak barrels, followed by a resting period in the bottle. The 2021 vintage was characterised by a warm, stable summer and cool nights during the ageing phase, which ensured impressive aromatic precision and a taut structure.

From the beginning, Pio Cesare produced limited quantities of Barolo Chinato and Vermouth, precisely according to a family recipe handed down by his grandfather. In the early 1950s, however, production was discontinued as tastes and preferences changed.

"Pio di lei", for the ladies. A name that pays homage to the strong women of the Pio Cesare family. When Pio Boffa planted the first Chardonnay vines in 1981, it was a revolutionary act in the Langhe. Growing a French white wine here, in the realm of Nebbiolo, where Barolo and Barbaresco have reigned supreme for centuries – that bordered on heresy. But Pio had a vision: to create a white wine with the body, complexity and ageing potential of the great reds. The first vintage came onto the market in 1985. Today, almost four decades later, his daughter Federica continues the legacy and proves that the women of this family are not just namesakes, but creators.

Matteo Ascheri is fascinated by the grape varieties of the Rhône Valley and produces an extremely small quantity of a top-class single-varietal Viognier every year. Intense straw yellow colour. Complex bouquet with aromas of apricot, white peach, violet and lavender. Round, full and long-lasting on the palate with an appetising, tart and fresh citrus note on the very elegant, long finish. This incredibly exciting and multi-layered wine is one of the brightest white wines in Piedmont. SUPERIORE.DE

Maneo – i stay, I wait. What sounds like a silent promise in Latin becomes a philosophy at Enrico Serafino: this Gavi only leaves the winery five years after the harvest. While other Cortese wines have long since been drunk, the Maneo matures quietly – first on its fine lees in stainless steel, then in the bottle until time has done its work. The grapes come from the best parcels in the heart of the appellation, where clay and limestone-rich soils with a low pH value give the Cortese the tension that distinguishes it from the pleasing everyday white. Vinification follows the credo of maximum care: hand-picking, sorting on a vibrating table, cooling with carbonic acid snow to prevent oxidation. The grapes are gently pressed and some of the grapes are left to macerate overnight at cool temperatures – a touch of extraction that gives the wine substance without jeopardising its elegance.

Bruno Giacosa bought his first winery in 1982. Until then, he had worked exclusively with bought-in grapes for four decades – and yet made wines that are still considered a reference today. The genius of Neive was convinced that it was not the ownership of a vineyard that was decisive, but the ability to get the best out of the fruit. If you recognise the right grapes, you don't need your own hectare. The Spumante is the purest distillate of this philosophy. The Pinot Nero grapes come from Casteggio in the Oltrepò Pavese – the Pinot territory south of Milan that Giacosa has always treasured. Foreign origin, own signature. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel, no malolactic fermentation – the freshness remains intact. Then classic bottle fermentation, at least 30 months sur lie. Dosage 3.5 g/litre. Disgorgement only when the wine is ready.

There are wines that make history. Enrico Serafino's Zero is one of them: when the 2004 vintage was launched on the market in 2011, it was the first Pas Dosé in the history of the Alta Langa DOCG – a pioneering achievement that was to shape the self-image of an entire denomination. Three years later, Gambero Rosso named Zero the best Italian sparkling wine of the year. No coincidence, but the logical consequence of an uncompromising philosophy. Zero – the name says it all. Zero grams of dosage, no liqueur d'expédition, no concession to favour. What remains is the pure terroir of the Alta Langa: 100% Pinot Nero from altitudes of over 400 metres, where calcareous soils and alpine influences give the wine its mineral tension. After manual harvesting and whole bunch pressing under nitrogen, the must ferments at a controlled temperature in stainless steel. The wine is aged on the lees for at least 60 months – five years, during which time unfolds its magic. The late sboccatura marks the final act before release.