Wines from Piedmont

From the beginning, Pio Cesare produced limited quantities of Barolo Chinato and Vermouth, precisely according to a family recipe handed down by his grandfather. In the early 1950s, however, production was discontinued as tastes and preferences changed.

"Pio di lei", for the ladies. A name that pays homage to the strong women of the Pio Cesare family. When Pio Boffa planted the first Chardonnay vines in 1981, it was a revolutionary act in the Langhe. Here, in the realm of Nebbiolo, where Barolo and Barbaresco have reigned supreme for centuries, growing a French white wine bordered on heresy. But Pio had a vision: to create a white wine that possessed the body, complexity and ageing potential of the great reds. The first vintage was released in 1985. Today, almost four decades later, his daughter Federica is carrying on the legacy and proving that the women of this family are not merely the namesakes, but the architects.

Matteo Ascheri is fascinated by the grape varieties of the Rhône Valley and produces an extremely small quantity of a top-class single-varietal Viognier every year. Intense straw yellow colour. Complex bouquet with aromas of apricot, white peach, violet and lavender. Round, full and long-lasting on the palate with an appetising, tart and fresh citrus note on the very elegant, long finish. This incredibly exciting and multi-layered wine is one of the brightest white wines in Piedmont. SUPERIORE.DE

Maneo – i stay, I wait. What sounds like a silent promise in Latin becomes a philosophy at Enrico Serafino: this Gavi only leaves the winery five years after the harvest. While other Cortese wines have long since been drunk, the Maneo matures quietly – first on its fine lees in stainless steel, then in the bottle until time has done its work. The grapes come from the best parcels in the heart of the appellation, where clay and limestone-rich soils with a low pH value give the Cortese the tension that distinguishes it from the pleasing everyday white. Vinification follows the credo of maximum care: hand-picking, sorting on a vibrating table, cooling with carbonic acid snow to prevent oxidation. The grapes are gently pressed and some of the grapes are left to macerate overnight at cool temperatures – a touch of extraction that gives the wine substance without jeopardising its elegance.

Bruno Giacosa bought his first winery in 1982. Until then, he had worked exclusively with bought-in grapes for four decades – and yet made wines that are still considered a reference today. The genius of Neive was convinced that it was not the ownership of a vineyard that was decisive, but the ability to get the best out of the fruit. If you recognise the right grapes, you don't need your own hectare. The Spumante is the purest distillate of this philosophy. The Pinot Nero grapes come from Casteggio in the Oltrepò Pavese – the Pinot territory south of Milan that Giacosa has always treasured. Foreign origin, own signature. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel, no malolactic fermentation – the freshness remains intact. Then classic bottle fermentation, at least 30 months sur lie. Dosage 3.5 g/litre. Disgorgement only when the wine is ready.

There are wines that make history. Enrico Serafino's Zero is one of them: when the 2004 vintage was launched on the market in 2011, it was the first Pas Dosé in the history of the Alta Langa DOCG – a pioneering achievement that was to shape the self-image of an entire denomination. Three years later, Gambero Rosso named Zero the best Italian sparkling wine of the year. No coincidence, but the logical consequence of an uncompromising philosophy. Zero – the name says it all. Zero grams of dosage, no liqueur d'expédition, no concession to favour. What remains is the pure terroir of the Alta Langa: 100% Pinot Nero from altitudes of over 400 metres, where calcareous soils and alpine influences give the wine its mineral tension. After manual harvesting and whole bunch pressing under nitrogen, the must ferments at a controlled temperature in stainless steel. The wine is aged on the lees for at least 60 months – five years, during which time unfolds its magic. The late sboccatura marks the final act before release.

The relatively young DOC Colli Tortonesi is probably still one of the least known wine regions in Piedmont. The term Derthona is already used as a generic term. It is the old name for Tortona, a small village in the centre of the DOC. The indigenous white grape variety Timorasso led a shadowy existence for many years, but today some winegrowers are already calling it the "white Barolo". This is due to its great complexity and finesse on the one hand and the excellent ageing potential of the wines on the other. In addition, the grapes often vary in size and ripeness during the harvest, which makes selection a major challenge, just as with the great Nebbiolo crus.

Falletto in Serralunga d'Alba is a natural amphitheatre – that compact, concentrated hillside that gives Serralunga its distinctive power. Calcareous soils, south-west to west-facing slopes, a minerality that is audible in every wine from this site. Normally, this is Nebbiolo country. Barolo country. At Giacosa, Barbera also grows here. The difference from the purchased Giacosa Barbera begins in the soil and continues in the cellar: after fermentation in steel – as with the Casa Vinicola wine – , the Falletto Barbera leaves the tank and is transferred to large oak botti for 14 months. The same vessels, the same care as for the house’s Barolos and Barbareschi. No new wood, just the slow oxygenation provided by large, neutral barrels, which gives the wine depth and integration without shaping it.

Prunotto's Barolo is a very beautiful, ethereal wine. Rose petals, spices, blood orange, mint and crushed red berry fruit keep it firmly grounded. On the palate, it is saturated and rich with dark flavours that are firmly connected to spices, liquorice and crushed blue flowers. There is power and richness deep within this wine, the well-proportioned tannin is fresh and firm, giving it energy and drive. SUPERIORE.DE

The Brunate vineyard, located between La Morra and Barolo, is considered one of the region's great Grand Cru. The combination of calcareous marl soils, optimal south to south-east exposure and the altitude gives the wine a fine interplay of ripe fruit, spicy depth and silky-textured tannin structure. The 2016 vintage produced wines of rare harmony in the Barolo region: a cool spring, balanced summer weeks and a long, golden autumn created conditions in which Nebbiolo could mature slowly. The result is wines of precision, depth and longevity.

A rare and very limited wine that is more than just a Barbera: it is a living monument. The vines come from a tiny plot in the hamlet of Berri near La Morra, which was planted before the phylloxera catastrophe (prefilossera) and survived it – the vines are ungrafted, without rootstocks, a rare treasure that is almost unique in Italy today. The sandy, chalky soils and southern exposure give these grapes an intensity and clarity that is incomparable to any younger vineyard. The 2022 vintage brought sunny, warm days in which the old vines used their deep roots to tap into water reserves. harvest was strictly selective and in small crates to preserve the delicate structure of the berries.

A historic Barolo from the estate (first produced in 1905!), composed from Nebbiolo parcels in the heart of the appellation. The grapes are selectively harvested by hand, the lots are carefully destemmed and fermented; maceration takes around eight days at moderate temperatures and malolactic fermentation is completed before the onset of winter. The wine then matures for at least 18 months in large oak barrels of various sizes – an ageing process that preserves balance, transparency and expression of origin. The 2021 vintage began with a mild winter and abundant rainfall, which created valuable water reserves. A light frost in mid-April reduced the yields, but without affecting the quality. This was followed by a long, stable summer without heat peaks; scattered thunderstorms in June/July and pronounced day/night amplitudes during the ripening phase ensured a precise harvest from 6 to 15 October. The grapes achieved excellent phenolic ripeness with bright acidity.

Some wines are not created out of planning, but out of respect for what old vines can give. In Neive, where the Pola family has run the Fontanabianca winery since 1969, there is a plot of Barbera vines that have taken root in the limestone and clay soils for half a century. From these old vines – uncompromisingly selected and only vinified in exceptional vintages – brunet is the result: a Barbera wine of such concentration and structure that it redefines the conventional notions of this grape variety. The limited production is bottled exclusively in magnums, a format that gives the wine the space to develop that its density and complexity demand.

Not matured grappa, not brandy and not fruit brandy, but the best of all of the above - Aquardens Composita is an assemblage of young and matured grappa with old brandy and a fruit brandy. The individual distillates are matured separately and then blended. The cuvée then matures for 12 months in barriques of different types of wood. Its bouquet is a concert of impressions, from which notes of tobacco, cocoa and vanilla stand out in particular. These flavours continue in the rich and enveloping taste. SUPERIORE.DE

Il Favot bears the name of the estate that Aldo acquired in 1969: "Cascina Favot" in Bussia. It is the only wine in the portfolio that is named after the family estate, and this naming reveals the Conternos' personal attachment to this Nebbiolo. But why not call it Barolo? After all, the grapes come from the same legendary Bussia vineyards that produce Bussia and Granbussia. The answer lies in the age: Il Favot is made exclusively from vines under 15 years of age – the young vines that will one day produce the great Barolo. A baby Barolo with pedigree. The vinification is deliberately designed for earlier drinking maturity: only six to eight days of maceration to extract less tannin and more colour, followed by a few months in stainless steel tanks. The wine is then aged for 15 to 18 months in new French Allier barriques – an unusually opulent treatment for a Langhe Nebbiolo, which gives the wine depth and structure. Aldo Conterno once said: "Vanilla, toast and spice do not belong in Barolo." But in Il Favot? Please, with pleasure.

Tortoniano Barolo is a blend of Nebbiolo, 50% of which comes from the Cerequio vineyard, the other half from other plots, including some plantings in the Novello commune. It combines the complexity and nuances of the Nebbiolo grape with a fruit-driven and engaging personality. The aromatic bouquet shows hints of sweetness and richness with a potpourri of blackberries, summer cherries and spices. On the palate it is powerful and immediate, the tannins are clear and tangible. Will continue to develop towards perfection, elegance and finesse over the next few years. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that bear the name of their place. And there is this one – it bears the name of the beginning. "Campo delle Piane" was the name of the half hectare of land that Antonio Cerri farmed into old age, when the world around him had long since given up. When Christoph Künzli took over this inheritance at the end of the nineties, it became Le Piane. The wine, which today is simply called Piane, is the essence of this original story – and a tribute to an almost forgotten grape variety: Croatina. The grapes come from the estate's oldest plots, planted between 1910 and 1920 on the hills of Montalbano, Traversagna and Santuario. Centenary roots that reach deep into the volcanic porphyry. Fermented spontaneously, six days on the skins, then matured for two years – first in tonneaux, then in large Slavonian oak vats. No filtration, no intervention. Just time.

The white Zero made history as the first Pas Dosé of the Alta Langa. Its pink-coloured brother goes one step further: here it is the Pinot Nero alone that carries the uncompromising philosophy – 100%, without the Chardonnay as an elegant intermediary. What remains is the pure commitment to one grape variety and one terroir. Saignée – the bloodletting. The method betrays Burgundian roots: after destemming and gentle pressing, the must rests on the skins for two to four hours in a nitrogen atmosphere, just long enough to extract that delicate copper colour that shimmers so seductively in the glass. The yield of blossom must is a maximum of 45% – concentration instead of mass. The grapes come from altitudes between 450 and 550 metres, where the calcareous soils of the Alta Langa give the Pinot Nero mineral tension and aromatic depth.