Wines from Piedmont

When Giorgio Rivetti saw the hills of Neive, he immediately recognised the potential lying dormant in this Barbaresco commune: soils and exposures in which he saw the characteristics of the most prestigious crus combined. He bought the land. The Rivettis have since established a presence in Neive with four vineyards, each with its own character, each with its own voice in the estate's Barbaresco orchestra. Bordini is the most delicate of these voices.

"L'Insieme" is a small but concrete project of eco-solidarity. Just seven winegrowers from the Langhe have come together to support concrete solidarity projects every year with a part of the yield. The members include Elio Altare, Gianfranco Alessandria, Giuliano Corino, Federico Grasso, Giulio e Paolo Morando, Lorenzo Revello and Mauro Veglio. Under the label of the same name (L'Insieme: together, together, together), the wine producers support solidarity projects all over the world with 5.16 euros per bottled wine.

Wine Solidarity. The term was coined by Elio Altare and six of his colleagues from the Langhe themselves in 1997, when they turned an idea into a structure that continues to function to this day. The seven founders – Altare, Giovanni Corino, Federico Grasso, the Revello brothers and Mauro Veglio from La Morra, Gianfranco Alessandria from Monforte d’Alba, and La Morandina from Castiglione Tinella – formed a pact: each would produce their own wine under the shared name L’Insieme, up to 5,000 bottles per year. And each would pay 5 euros per bottle produced into the shared fund. Not per bottle sold – per bottle produced.

The parcels of La Tartufaia lie between the historic Barolo slopes of La Morra and the forests where white truffles are foraged in autumn. The soil of calcareous marl mixed with fine layers of sand gives this Nebbiolo a delicate flavour and silky structure. Giulia Negri cultivates the vineyard in a natural way, working with spontaneous fermentation and careful ageing for around 30 months in medium-sized wooden barrels to bring the terroir unadulterated into the glass. The 2021 vintage provided a perfect balance of ripe fruit and fresh acidity.

The name is no coincidence. The plot of land where Giulia Negri's Pinot Nero grows is called La Tartufaia – the truffle ground. Serradenari has been famous for its white truffle for centuries, and the almost 300-year-old natural forest that surrounds the estate is its ideal habitat. At 520 metres above sea level, among the ancient oaks and hazel bushes, lies the north-facing vineyard, which is one of the highest in the entire Barolo appellation. Giulia Negri's father planted Pinot Nero and Chardonnay on the cooler northern slopes – a nod to Burgundy, which was unusual for La Morra. Giulia has turned this into a conviction. The soil here is Messiniano: calcareous clay, structuring, mineral, fundamentally different from the sandy Tortonian of the lower sites. Spontaneous fermentation in conical wooden vats with around 25 days of maceration, then around 20 months in French barriques and tonneaux of 228 and 350 Liters.

Oro – golden name, golden essence. This passito is a real masterpiece, with its bright amber colour and copper reflections, visually announcing its precious concentration and depth. The grapes (100% Moscato Bianco) undergo a deliberate drying process: Harvested late and stored dry until December before undergoing fermentation – including malolactic fermentation and maturation for 24 months in new barriques. A complex process during which the wine matures to a balsamic, honey-saturated elegance.

As always, Castiglione is mainly based on grapes from Ravera, with smaller portions from Ginestra, Mosconi, Bricco Ravera (in Monforte), Le Coste, Costabelle, Meriame, Briccolina and Codana. Every year it is a dazzling wine that shows how convincing even an "entry-level wine" from a top producer can be. Rich, voluptuous and explosive, it has enormous fullness and resonance from the very first sip. On the nose, bright red cherry and plum fruit, wild flowers, mint, blood orange and spices. Its silky tannins are accompanied by a beautiful, mentholated brightness. A real charmer! SUPERIORE.DE

A Barbera with a closed gaze – as if you were looking into a dark, purple-red depth from which concentrated essences rise. Scarrone Vigna Vecchia comes from vines that are decades old – partly planted around 1918 – in the Scarrone vineyard near Castiglione Falletto. In the cellar, spontaneous fermentation takes place in stainless steel, followed by around 16 months of ageing in predominantly French barriques (proportion new), where intelligent use of wood subtly helps the terroir. The 2021 vintage brought full maturity, dense fruit and clear acidity – the best prerequisites for an expressive but elegant Barbera with Storage potential.

Elena Penna's (London) Dry Gin carries the soul of the Langhe and combines British gin tradition with Piedmontese botanical finesse. Hand-picked alpine herbs from the Langhe hills and the Maritime Alps – juniper from the Maritime Alps, Langhe thyme, coriander, black elderflower, angelica, wild mint, camomile, cassia bark and organic citrus peel from the Ligurian hills – are distilled over a wood fire in two restored 18th century copper stills. The "one-shot" method uses each botanical only once to capture its aromatic essence in the highest purity. No synthetic flavourings, no essential oils, just natural cold filtration through paper filters, which give the gin a delicate yellow hue. The result: intense juniper distillate with balsamic notes, fine herbal flavours and an oily texture that lingers on the palate for a long time – an authentic and complex gin with a Piedmontese soul. SUPERIORE.DE

Tulin is a wine that looks in two directions – on the one hand deeply rooted in the single vineyard of the same name directly below the winery in Treiso, and on the other hand an expression of a modern, consciously contoured interpretation of Barbaresco. The wine comes from a south and south-west facing steep slope on calcareous marl soil, interspersed with layers of blue clay – a terroir that produces structure, precision and clarity. In the great Pelissero canon, Tulin stands for finesse with a backbone. The vines are over 50 years old and produce concentrated, but never exuberant harvest. The wine is matured for around 20 months in tonneaux and large barrels – not for effect, but for balance. Vinification is carried out with open mash fermentation and a great deal of patience in the cellar; the use of wood is deliberately minimised.

With further bottle ageing, this Barbaresco tends to be softer and more open, with soft tannins and a broad palate, thanks to the microclimate created by the cru's proximity to the Tanaro river.

Only 2,500 bottles of the debut vintage were filled. Eós, named after the Greek goddess of dawn, is the result of a selection of the best Erbaluce grapes from our own vineyards on the volcanic porphyry soils of Boca. The grapes were slowly pressed with a vertical press (torchio) without being crushed or destemmed (whole bunch press). The juice was then poured into large Slavonian oak barrels, where it was aged on the lees for a year. This was followed by a further year of refinement in the barrel and in the bottle.

The youngest of the Produttori cru wines, which saw the light of day in 1978. The palate reveals ripe, silky fruit and an important structure.

La Tartufaia is the most inviting introduction to Giulia Negri's Barolo universe – and at the same time the most complex in its origin. The grapes come from two vineyards: Serradenari and Brunate. Brunate, one of the most sought-after crus in the entire appellation, straddles the border between La Morra and the village of Barolo – facing west, on tortonian clay with a high sand content and alkaline pH. This soil chemistry is crucial: an alkaline pH means fewer available minerals, more compact vegetation, grapes with thicker skins – and ultimately a Barolo that is fruitier, more accessible and rounder than its siblings. Spontaneous fermentation in 60-hectolitre wooden vats, around 40 days of maceration on the skins – somewhat shorter than the other parcels. Then 24 months in 25-hectolitre Austrian oak barrels.

A Barbaresco with a lot of personality, in which body and tannin structure are well balanced by floral scents of undergrowth, mint and eucalyptus.

Brilliant and vertical, it retains its characteristic floral note and the freshness of the fruit typical of the terroir.

As always, Vietti's outrageously priced "entry-level" Barolo (formerly Castiglione) is based mainly on grapes from Ravera, with smaller portions from Ginestra, Mosconi, Bricco Ravera (in Monforte), Le Coste, Costabelle, Meriame, Briccolina and Codana. Ruby red colour of medium intensity. The nose is explosive, opulent, persuasive and immediate. Notes of plum, red and ripe black cherry, black cherry, rose petals and tobacco are perceptible. The palate is classic, rich, powerful, with notes of alpine herbs and a leathery finish. The tannin is already well integrated. Especially in the peak year 2021, this wine is an absolute insider tip in the winery's incredibly terrificBarolo line-up every year, and not just because of its price. SUPERIORE.DE

A fruity and graceful Barbaresco. The loamy soils give it a firm backbone and strong tannins.

When Eugenio Palumbo, cellar master at Vietti, described the summer of 2022, he found a phrase that has echoed through the Langhe ever since: "Barolo grapes are usually harvested in wellies, not Crocs." A hot, dry year – the grapes were harvested 15 days earlier than usual, and the decisions made in the vineyard made all the difference. As in every year, grapes from around twenty different parcels flow into the Barolo – those portions that remain after selection for the single-vineyard wines. In 2022, a rare twist was added: this time, the Brunate, Cerequio and Villero vineyards were not released as independent MGA wines. Not the second selection, but their entire harvest was therefore channelled into this wine. Palumbo himself calls the result "a kind of super single vineyard" – and he is right.

Bussia was there first. When the Barolo producers began to list their single vineyards on the label, Bussia was already there – the first MGA in the entire appellation ever to be bottled as a single vineyard. Today, covering 340 hectares, it is the second-largest MGA in the Barolo region, and despite its size, it is remarkably homogeneous in terms of soil and character: dense, earthy depth that unfolds into complexity over time. Orlando and Attilio Pecchenino hail from Dogliani, the heart of Dolcetto production in the Langhe. The fact that the brothers, renowned for their fine Dolcetti, also produce a Barolo of such precision is only surprising at first glance. Craftsmanship and terroir are the constants – whilst the grape variety varies.

Orlando and Attilio Pecchenino are from Dogliani. The fact that these brothers, who have made a name for themselves as Dolcetto producers, also produce a Barolo of such depth and precision is no contradiction – it is the same approach, applied to a different terroir. The Corsini vineyard in the Bussia MGA, Monforte d’Alba: south-west facing, calcareous-clay soil with brownish marl, Guyot training, 5,000 vines per hectare. At 340 hectares, Bussia is the second-largest MGA in the Barolo region – and was historically the first single vineyard to ever be bottled as such. Despite its size, its soils are remarkably homogeneous, and its character unmistakable: dense depth that unfolds into great complexity over time.

Briccolina is one of the smallest but most prestigious vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba. The steep slopes and the limestone and clay-rich marl soil give the wines from this parcel a striking, almost architectural structure. The south-east exposure ensures even sunshine and slow ripening, giving the flavours depth and precision. Dense, bright garnet red in colour with ruby reflections. The bouquet is multi-layered: ripe sour cherry, blackcurrant, dried roses, with hints of graphite, liquorice, fine leather and a touch of undergrowth. Powerful on the palate, with pithy, ripe tannins and clear, supporting acidity. The fruit is concentrated but not heavy, embedded in a subtle spiciness and mineral vein. The finish is long, structured and characterised by persistent freshness. A Barolo of rare precision and depth that masterfully reflects the character of the tiny Briccolina vineyard in a great vintage – and has the potential to age for decades. SUPERIORE.DE