The Wine Advocate

A white gravel track leads to the estate; it is narrow but not difficult to navigate, winding through a dense forest of holm oaks and oaks. In the north of Chianti Classico, near Gaiole in Chianti, lies the Vertine vineyard, guarded for centuries by a castle: three hectares laid out in a fan-shaped pattern on a hill at an altitude of 500 metres, open to the south and south-west. The soil consists of galestro and alberese, rich in stones, forcing the Sangiovese roots to reach deep down. The grapes are harvested by hand into 10-kilo crates, followed by a second selection at the sorting table. Fermentation takes place in concrete tanks, where the wine remains for 12 months; it is then aged for a further year in the bottle before leaving the estate.

Terracotta is not a trend. It is the oldest wine container known to mankind – older than wood, older than stone, older than any wine culture we know by name. Elena Fucci is not looking forwards, but backwards: to a time when clay and volcanic earth were the same substance – and wine did not yet need a method to explain itself. The amphorae come from Impruneta near Florence, the centre of Tuscan terracotta craftsmanship – 700 Liters, untreated, permeable, breathing. No coating, no control over what happens: That's the point.

Located in the south of Montalcino, Ciacci Piccolomini's sprawling estate is characterised by warm, fragrant afternoon breezes from the Mediterranean. The wines are typically very fragrant and have a higher alcohol content, but also plenty of freshness and focus. In the aromas we find sun-kissed cherries and raspberries, red roses, tobacco, sage and thyme. Light-footed on the palate with grainy tannins that dissolve easily, this wine is already very accessible. It is literally fuelled by the golden light that falls on this part of Tuscany in the last hours of the day. A wine full of personality and identity. SUPERIORE.DE

Swiss precision meets Tuscan passion: Monika and Thomas Bär-Bettschart have been realising their dream at the Antico Podere Gagliole in Castellina in Chianti since 1990. The Rubiolo 30 anni is a certified organic homage to three decades of winegrowing in one of the most beautiful terroirs in Tuscany. Made from pure Sangiovese grapes from both the historic terraces around Castellina and the famous Conca d'Oro in Panzano, this wine epitomises the synthesis of two exceptional sites. The grapes ripen on soils rich in galestro between 350 and 450 metres above sea level, facing south-west, where the centuries-old dry stone walls – uNESCO World Heritage Site since 2019 – between vines, olive trees and roses create a unique microclimate. After temperature-controlled fermentation with indigenous yeasts and 20 days of maceration, the wine matures for ten months, half in French barriques and half in concrete tanks, followed by three months of bottle ageing.

Prunotto's Barolo is a very beautiful, ethereal wine. Rose petals, spices, blood orange, mint and crushed red berry fruit keep it firmly grounded. On the palate, it is saturated and rich with dark flavours that are firmly connected to spices, liquorice and crushed blue flowers. There is power and richness deep within this wine, the well-proportioned tannin is fresh and firm, giving it energy and drive. SUPERIORE.DE

The vineyard on the western side of the Montalcino hills is so secluded that you can enjoy the starry sky to the full without being disturbed. It is therefore not surprising that this supple, very classic Brunello bears the name "Sky of Ulysses". As is well known, Odysseus had the ability to navigate the seas without a compass and by simply orientating himself by the stars.

Francesco Illy came to Montalcino as a nature photographer – and stayed. What began in 1997 as a personal project is now one of the most exciting biodynamic estates in the appellation. Demeter-certified, run by a young team, with a philosophy that sees no contradiction between perfection and joie de vivre. The "Cielo d'Ulisse" – the sky of Odysseus – comes from the western plots of Montalcino, near Camigliano. Loamy-sandy soils with a touch of galestro, evening sun and a cool, wooded climate: a combination that lends Sangiovese freshness and elegance rather than power. Fermentation is spontaneous, and the wine is aged for three years in large, second-hand Slavonian oak barrels.

A torrential stream has carved the gorge into the rock that gave the estate its name, and above it, on a rocky outcrop on the cliff, the castle was built in the 12th century – a fortress that was considered impregnable. Today, on the estate – which has been certified organic since 2015 – the Chardonnay vines grow on the highest hills, in clay-limestone soils that impart freshness and finesse. The grapes are harvested by hand into 10-kilo crates; two-thirds of the must ferments in steel, whilst the remaining third ferments in Clayver, oak barriques and Alma vessels made of oak and ceramic, in which the wine is then left to rest on its fine lees for ten months in equal proportions. The cellar beneath the villa dates back to medieval times; it was completely rebuilt in 2000, and since 2004 an underground tunnel has connected the old and new sections, serving as a barrel cellar. The year 2025 begins with mild weather and little rainfall; the summer is dry and hot, whilst rain in September and October restores the water balance.

Bucine, Valdarno di Sopra – where the Arno meanders through rolling hills between Arezzo and Florence, Fattoria Petrolo lies at an altitude of between 250 and 500 metres. In 1988, Lucia Bazzocchi Sanjust wanted to create a wine that would convey the true identity of this terroir: the "Château" of Petrolo, a tribute to the centuries-old Tuscan tradition of blending French grape varieties with Sangiovese. As early as 1834, Giorgio Perrin, an agronomist of Swiss origin and owner of Petrolo, reported in the *Giornale Agrario Toscano* as early as 1834 that it was customary in Chianti to blend "uve francesi" with Sangiovese, not to alter the quality, but because the terroir prevails over the grape varieties.

Montebello is a sophisticated blend of Mammolo, Ciliegiolo, Pugnitello, Colorino, Sanforte, Malvasia Nera, Canaiolo, Fogliatonda and Sangiovese. Each grape variety is harvested and fermented separately in open Liters barrels with indigenous yeasts and manual racking. A captivating bouquet of dark cherries and earth, with notes of cinnamon, tar and grilled herbs. The defined tannins are accompanied by a beautiful acid wire. A wine with great character and beautiful structure that changes with every sip. SUPERIORE.DE

Here comes the new top Gran Selezione from San Felice: intense ruby red in colour, with broad and persistent aromas on the nose. Notes of violets and blackcurrants mingle with a sweet spiciness of tobacco and liquorice. Full-bodied, supple, well-structured wine, characterised by ripe and juicy tannins that harmonise with the acidic component. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for the rare Naturalis Historia come from a 50-year-old vineyard located 400 metres above sea level with deep, sandy soils of volcanic origin in Mirabella. Deep, sparkling dark red colour. Redcurrant, sweet spices and aromas of dark plums and red cherries on the nose. Perfectly structured on the palate with well-balanced pressure and a full body that is never broad, but fresh, supple and very agile, leading to a harmonious, long-lasting final. An outstanding Aglianico that is already delicious to drink now, but will also age wonderfully. SUPERIORE.DE

Adine slopes steeply southwards, in terraces, over a height of more than 500 metres, below the cellar. The highest terrace is called Punta, and this Sangiovese comes from there; the estate only bottles it in the very best vintages. Beneath the vines lies rock dating from before the Eocene epoch, around 100 million years old: clay-rich limestone, once the seabed, of medium texture, full of stones, deep and loose. It conducts heat well, the light falls perfectly, and the estate regards it as the ideal site for bringing out the elegance, complexity and longevity of the Sangiovese grape. Harvested by hand, fermented in concrete tanks, then aged for 18 months in Austrian oak barrels with a capacity of 2,500 Liters, before being stored for extended bottle ageing. The 2021 vintage was favourable: good rainfall in spring, no water stress in summer, significant temperature variations between day and night in August, and harvesting from the second half of September.

In the quiet hollow above Söll, where the Gewürztraminer vines escape the warm south wind from Lake Garda, a mystery of rare beauty takes place every year. Here, protected in this natural arena between 400 and 500 metres above sea level, the eagerly awaited Botrytis cinerea – the noble rot – finds its perfect conditions. While other vineyards have long since been emptied, the Terminum grapes remain on the vine until the first months of winter. December is their time of perfection, when they have become golden treasure troves of pure flavour, marked and concentrated by botrytis. Each berry is selected individually, each bearing the promise of exceptional complexity. Twelve hours of maceration, gentle pressing at a maximum of 1.8 bar, then the must is transferred to French barriques. Fermentation begins there, which lasts six to nine months. A further seven to ten months of ageing in wood, followed by at least three months of bottle ageing complete the deceleration process.

Gewürztraminer has a place name in its name – and thus a whole story. Tramin, a small village in the South Tyrolean lowlands, is considered the original home of this grape variety, whose aromatic power has fascinated and polarised people in equal measure for centuries. Those who like it, love it. Those who know it know that in the wrong hands it becomes a caricature. At the Cantina Terlan, it is something else. The Lunare is the pinnacle of this interpretation. Grown at 300–400 metres in south-west-facing porphyry vineyards, where downdraughts and pronounced day-night temperature differences give Gewürztraminer exactly what it needs: aromatic precision instead of perfumed richness. The name hints at what the wine fulfils – something noctilucent, cool, unreal and clear.

Rosso Arcurìa comes from the plot directly opposite the winery where Alberto Graci began his return to Etna in 2004, after turning his back on the world of finance in Milan. Whilst the entry-level Etna Rosso blends grapes from several vineyards, this wine comes exclusively from the plots in Contrada Arcurìa, situated at an altitude of 600 to 700 metres. The yield, at around 30 hectolitres per hectare, is noticeably lower than that of the entry-level wine, with three to four bunches per vine. The grapes grow on the same brown, volcanic soil as the Carricante used for the Bianco. 100% Nerello Mascalese is fermented in the traditional manner in upright, conical wooden vats, with a long maceration period on the skins, before ageing for 24 months in large Nevers oak vats, with malolactic fermentation occurring naturally.

When Ferruccio Ferragamo took over the dilapidated Borgo from the Duke of Savoy-Aosta in 1993, it was more than just a property purchase. It was, as he himself put it, "an act of faith". Thirty years on, the house's flagship wine embodies this spirit in every bottle: a commitment to uncompromising elegance. Its creation was preceded by a meticulous geological study. Each grape variety was planted where the soil best brings out its strengths: Merlot for velvety opulence, Cabernet Sauvignon for structure and depth, Syrah for freshness and aromatic lift. Separate vinification, followed by blending – a blend that bears the hallmark of the Valdarno. The wines mature for eighteen months in French oak – the Merlot partly in larger casks to preserve its fruit, the Cabernet and Syrah in first- and second-use barriques. The result is neither a copy nor a rival to Bolgheri or Chianti, but something entirely unique.

Feudo di Mezzo is more than just a vineyard – it is the historic centrepiece of viticulture on Etna. One of Pietradolce's oldest and most fascinating plots is located in the contrada of the same name, around 600 metres above sea level between the lava flows of past eruptions. The Nerello Mascalese vines are rooted here in deep black, mineral-rich lava soil with excellent drainage. The microclimate is characterised by wide temperature fluctuations, which give the wine a special depth and tension. Vinification is carried out with great sensitivity: spontaneous fermentation in traditional wooden vats, maturing for around 12 months in large tonneaux.

A name steeped in history, which could stand on its own: in 1987, Silvio Jermann produced this Chardonnay for the first time and dedicated it to the U2 album "The Joshua Tree", specifically the song "Where the Streets Have No Name". Originally, the wine was called "Where the Dreams Have No End..." – but over the years the name changed several times until it settled on its current, abbreviated form: "W... Dreams...".

Pelagrilli is the origin – the name of the hillside north-east of Montalcino, which Siro Pacenti acquired in 1970, and at the same time the name of the flagship Brunello that his son Giancarlo has been vinifying since 1988. On sandy-loamy soils, channelling the cooling westerly winds, between 25 and 40-year-old vines, a Brunello is created here that combines Giancarlo's mathematical precision and his Bordeaux experience: fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature, 24 months in small French barriques – not for flavour, but for purity. 2020 was a warm, dry summer – sangiovese under pressure, which, where well managed, turned into concentrated, supple fruit. The northern slope of Pelagrilli absorbed the heat better than the southern sites; the harvest began in mid-September under good conditions.

Bianco Trinoro is made from 100% Semillon from a tiny sandy plot in the highest areas of the Trinoro vineyard. The plot is located at around 600 metres above sea level and covers approximately 5,000 square metres. The vineyard was partially planted in 2001 and completed in 2006 with vines from Bordeaux; here, as elsewhere on the estate, the vines are planted close together, one metre apart, in the Bordeaux style. Very aromatic with ripe, fruity notes balanced by a lovely freshness and acidity, great length and very good ageing potential! SUPERIORE.DE

In 1994, whilst Lodovico Antinori was searching for suitable land to expand his Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, he discovered, almost by chance, the hills of Bibbona that were to reshape his destiny as a winemaker. What he found there was not just land – it was a revelation. The soils, a complex symphony of clay and the legendary Bolgheri conglomerate, the orientation of the slopes, the salty breezes from the Tyrrhenian Sea – everything spoke a different language to the familiar Ornellaia terroir. Too different, too wild, too full of character to be a mere extension. And yet too fascinating to let go of.