The Wine Advocate

In 1980, Filippo Fanti bottled his first Brunello. He had taken over the estate in the early 1970s, replanted the vineyards, studied the soil plot by plot – and then waited for the first harvest he deemed worthy. This first vintage was no trial run. It was a declaration of intent. Since then, Tenuta Fanti has not missed a single vintage. Castelnuovo dell'Abate is the southernmost sub-region of Montalcino – closer to the sea, warmer and more Mediterranean than the northern vineyards, watched over by the Abbey of Sant'Antimo, a silent witness to centuries of history. Fanti owns 10 hectares of Sangiovese here, spread across various hillside plots at altitudes between 350 and 430 metres above sea level. Slate, galestro, clay, tuff – the soils vary from plot to plot, giving the Brunello that complexity which has always characterised the estate. Elisa Fanti, who joined the team in 2007, has fine-tuned the style: less intrusive oak, clearer fruit, greater transparency. 2021 was a year of great harmony in Montalcino: consistent ripeness, pronounced structure, elegant tannins.

"In 2012, I bought the small vineyard Le Gonnare and began to cultivate it. It represents the excellence of the Bolgheri terroir. The soil is clayey and rich in skeleton, which allows for very gradual ripening, a particularly important aspect for Merlot. The character of the wine is therefore Mediterranean, but balanced." Fabio Motta

It was 1959 when Count Giuseppe Tasca d'Almerita set his sights on a hill on his Regaleali estate, which the farmers simply called San Lucio – after the small chapel that stood at the top. He planted Perricone and Nero d'Avola on this hill, in the heart of Sicily, far from any seashore, on clayey soil at an altitude of around 500 metres. Both ripened late, both deeply rooted in the island. What followed was no ordinary wine, but an assertion: that Sicily needs no apology. The first Rosso del Conte was produced from the 1970 harvest and was the island's first single-vineyard cru – at a time when Sicily was primarily known for mass-produced wines and the rest of Italy hardly looked at it. Count Giuseppe wanted to create a red wine that could compete with the world's great reds – without Cabernet, without Merlot, without a foreign language. Only the island itself.

Terra di Monteverro is the estate's elegantly crafted second wine, yet in terms of character, authenticity and depth, it is far more than that. It comes from the stony, coastal slopes near Capalbio in the southern Maremma – a region characterised in 2021 by a long, warm summer with moderate highs and cool nights in September. This climatic balance allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot grape varieties to ripen perfectly; they were harvested and vinified plot by plot.

It was a dream that the engineer Gastone Bazzocchi planted in the Tuscan soil in 1947 – five hectares of Sangiovese on a hill he called Bòggina. Luca Sanjust, his grandson and a former painter, reflects today on Paul Klee's "Angelus Novus" and Walter Benjamin's interpretation of this angel, who "turns his gaze towards the past" whilst "a storm blows from paradise". Such is Bòggina: a wine with its eyes on the past, yet relentlessly propelled towards the future. Since 2011, Petrolo has been experimenting with the vinification of a special batch made from the finest grapes of this historic vineyard in terracotta amphorae from Impruneta – the pottery craft that has shaped Tuscan culture since the time of the Etruscans. Fermentation takes place over two weeks in 300- andLiters using indigenous yeasts, before the vessels are hermetically sealed. For eight months, the wine macerates on the skins, protected by natural skin contact without the addition of sulphites.

Anrar is the answer to a simple question: what happens when South Tyrol's second most important red grape variety is aged in wood? Whilst the classic Pinot Nero retains its freshness in stainless steel, Anrar takes a different approach. Around 12 months in French barriques for malolactic fermentation and further ageing. No overpowering oak, but rather elegant integration. That's what makes the difference. But that's not all: the grapes come from the finest Pinot Nero vineyards around Andrian. Altitudes between 350 and 450 metres, where the calcareous loam soils are interspersed with dolomite rock. The cooler microclimate ensures slow ripening, higher acidity and finer tannins. Perfect for a Pinot Nero with Burgundian aspirations.

In the heart of the Chianti Classico region, where the hills of Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti meet, lies the historic Castello di Fonterutoli estate. Owned by the Marchesi Mazzei family since 1435, this Chianti Classico epitomises a centuries-old winemaking tradition. The grapes come from 114 individually managed plots at altitudes ranging from 220 to 570 metres, each with its own microclimate and terroir. Composed mainly of Sangiovese, complemented by small proportions of Malvasia Nera and Colorino, each plot is vinified and aged separately to preserve the exceptional diversity of aromas and complexity.

1997 saw the birth of Bradisismo, named after the geological event that led to the formation of the Colli Berici. It is a successful symbiosis of the intense, concentrated flavour of ripe Cabernet cherries and the lively, spicy notes of Carménère. With its bouquet of small dark berries, spices, pepper and chocolate, it is a wonderfully inexpensive alternative to the great Bordeaux blends or Supertuscans. On the palate, it has a velvety texture, with a mix of dark fruits, cherries, floral notes and fine tannins that glide seamlessly over the palate. Deep, long finish and very good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

From the beginning, Pio Cesare produced limited quantities of Barolo Chinato and Vermouth, precisely according to a family recipe handed down by his grandfather. In the early 1950s, however, production was discontinued as tastes and preferences changed.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been permitted to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive), introduced in 2021, on the labels of the top-tier Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, this is a logical step towards producing wines that reflect the region in which they were made as authentically as possible. And it enables customers to deepen their understanding of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin – a real added value.

Tenuta Il Poggione is situated on the south-western slope of the Montalcino hill, in Sant'Angelo in Colle – one of the most historically significant areas within the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi laid the foundations here at the end of the 19th century, as a founding member of the Brunello Consortium and one of the first to market this wine under its current name. Today, his descendants, Leopoldo and Livia, cultivate 140 hectares of vines, with vines up to 60 years old, and adhere to a winemaking philosophy characterised by classical rigour: natural yeasts, large French oak barrels, and time.

The project aims to highlight the link between the vines, the wines and their territorial origins. The Mastroberardino family wants to recreate the style of winemaking of the indigenous grape varieties of Irpinia (Greco, Fiano and Aglianico) that took place between the late 1950s and early 1970s for the Taurasi and between 1970 and 1980 for the two white wines from Irpinia. It is the unmistakable style (the stilèma) of a family that has interpreted the natural heritage of its territory over generations and that today impressively emphasises the genuine character of the terroir, which by no means can be expressed through high concentration and intensity alone.

1997 saw the birth of Bradisismo, named after the geological event that led to the formation of the Colli Berici. It is a successful symbiosis of the intense, concentrated flavour of ripe Cabernet cherries and the lively, spicy notes of Carménère. With its bouquet of small dark berries, spices, pepper and chocolate, it is a wonderfully inexpensive alternative to the great Bordeaux blends or Supertuscans. On the palate, it has a velvety texture, with a mix of dark fruits, cherries, floral notes and fine tannins that glide seamlessly over the palate. Deep, long finish and very good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Serpico is Feudi di San Gregorio's flagship wine – a grand, monumental Aglianico made from vines over 150 years old in the legendary single vineyard "Dal Re" in Sorbo Serpico. The vineyard is situated on mineral soils of volcanic origin and is cultivated with great care by hand. 2016 was a year of moderate conditions, with a cool spring, a perfect ripening period in late summer and a late, selective harvest in October – ideal conditions for a wine of depth and balance.

On the northern border with Guardiola, where the barren, steep slopes of the higher ground give way to gentle terraces, lies one of the most beautiful spots on Mount Etna: Santo Spirito. Here, where the slopes gently descend towards the Alcantara Valley, a paradox of nature is revealed. Whilst neighbouring Guardiola struggles with barren, stony soils, Santo Spirito boasts lush vegetation – deep, rich volcanic ash that nourishes a luxuriant carpet of grass and vigorous vines that display their bountiful vigour.

Just under 950 metres above sea level, on the south-western slope of Mount Etna, lies Contrada Cavaliere, a single vineyard that stands out even within the diverse world of Etna's Contrade. Less rainfall than elsewhere on the volcano, but abundant sunshine and dramatic temperature fluctuations between day and night: conditions that lend the Carricante that unmistakable intensity for which connoisseurs seek out this Contrada. The 50-year-old vines are rooted in skeletal volcanic sands with a sub-acidic profile – a soil that forces the plant to develop deep roots and guarantees low yields of just 6,000 kg per hectare. The grapes, harvested by hand in October and gently pressed, ferment in stainless steel tanks using the estate's own Etna yeast. The wine then rests on the fine lees for twelve months, stirred regularly, followed by a further six months of bottle ageing.

In 1985, estate manager Giuseppe Bianchini inherited the estate from the childless Countess Elda Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona – a vote of confidence that is renewed every year. Today, his children Paolo and Lucia continue the legacy, 55 hectares in the privileged area of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, in the shadow of the Romanesque Abbey of Sant'Antimo. The 2021 vintage is considered one of the most brilliant of the last decade: bright September days and cool nights gave the Sangiovese that rare balance of aromatic precision and tannic finesse. 24 months in large Slavonian barrels, then further rest in the bottle.

"Pio di lei", for the ladies. A name that pays homage to the strong women of the Pio Cesare family. When Pio Boffa planted the first Chardonnay vines in 1981, it was a revolutionary act in the Langhe. Here, in the realm of Nebbiolo, where Barolo and Barbaresco have reigned supreme for centuries, growing a French white wine bordered on heresy. But Pio had a vision: to create a white wine that possessed the body, complexity and ageing potential of the great reds. The first vintage was released in 1985. Today, almost four decades later, his daughter Federica is carrying on the legacy and proving that the women of this family are not merely the namesakes, but the architects.

In 2007, Marco de Grazia discovered a tiny plot in Moganazzi – one of the two vineyards which, together with Guardiola, have always been regarded as the finest terroirs in the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia. He bought it without hesitation. The problem: just three barriques of wine. Too little for the market. Too good not to be made. De Grazia decided to donate all the bottles to a charity project run by the Meyer Children's Hospital in Florence. He had his daughter Elena design the labels. The first ones were created when she was two years old. For ten years, Moganazzi was a gift to sick children. Then, in 2017, de Grazia managed to buy a neighbouring plot and lease another one. For the first time, Moganazzi appeared as an official Terre Nere cru.

Here comes the debut vintage of a great white wine from a classic red wine region. In a small edition of less than 6,000 bottles, an elegant and at the same time very independent Trebbiano was created, which rightly bears the label based on the famous "Castello di Brolio" Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. The white Trebbiano grape variety has a tradition of over a hundred years at Brolio, and the grapes for this white cru come from a small 1.18-hectare plot in the company's own Tarci vineyard. According to tradition, a monument was erected here to San Barnaba, the protector of the vineyards from hail.

Tasca became involved in Etna at an early stage and the latest result of these years of experience are four single-vineyard red wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The Sciaranuova parcel is located at an average altitude of 730 metres above sea level between the villages of Montelaguardia and Passopisciaro. It covers an area of approximately 4.9 hectares of vineyards. The soils are of volcanic origin and up to 40,000 years old.

Feudo di Mezzo is perhaps the largest Contrada in the entire Etna DOC – characterised by a consistent style, yet with marked differences in quality from plot to plot. Marco de Grazia compares it to the Clos de Vougeot in Burgundy: a vast territory capable of producing great wine in its finest parts, and merely good wine in its weaker ones. The best plot in Feudo di Mezzo – de Grazia's plot – is called: Il Quadro delle Rose. The Rose Plot. Castiglione di Sicilia, 650 metres, north-facing. 1.5 hectares, vines aged between 40 and 80 years on deep, ash-rich volcanic soils. 5,500 bottles per vintage. Il Quadro delle Rose is always the first vineyard to be harvested – and de Grazia explains why this shapes its character: the earlier harvest yields the most open, generous and soft wines of the entire estate.

In 1991, Michele Satta planted his first vines in Castagneto Carducci. No master plan, no blueprint from outside. Just the conviction that this soil, this sea air, this Tuscan stubbornness could achieve more than what Bolgheri already was at the time. The result was Piastraia. Bottled since 1994, a Bolgheri Superiore since 2012 – and in 2023: the thirtieth vintage. Thirty vintages of observation, adjustment, refinement and a constant pursuit of excellence. The blend – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc – ferments varietal-separately in conical concrete vats, using only wild yeasts. No intervention, no shortcuts. 18 to 24 months in French barriques, a fifth of which are new – providing a subtle framework, without dominance.

Precise aromas of ripe red cherries, flint, orange peel, lavender and violets. Silky and juicy on the palate, with a refined but very concentrated extract that almost crushes the taste buds, yet remains lively and not at all heavy, giving beautiful definition and lift to the red cherry, raspberry, floral and mineral flavours. The finish is very deep and long, with very soft tannins, a beguiling perfume and extreme finesse; very Barolo-like. A beautiful, complex wine that shows the elegant side of Nero d'Avola that few producers are ever able to present. SUPERIORE.DE