“Rosso del Conte” Sicilia Contea di Sclafani DOC 2019

Tasca d'Almerita | Tenuta Regaleali | Sicily
Conte Tasca d'Almerita Soc. Agr. a.r.l. | Via dei Fiori 13 | IT 90129 Palermo

19032419 · 0,75 l · 61,33 €/l · Price (DE) incl. VAT, excl. Shippingavailable immediately

It was 1959 when Count Giuseppe Tasca d'Almerita set his sights on a hill on his Regaleali estate, which the farmers simply called San Lucio – after the small chapel that stood at the top. He planted Perricone and Nero d'Avola on this hill, in the heart of Sicily, far from any seashore, on clayey soil at an altitude of around 500 metres. Both ripened late, both deeply rooted in the island. What followed was no ordinary wine, but an assertion: that Sicily needs no apology. The first Rosso del Conte was produced from the 1970 harvest and was the island's first single-vineyard cru – at a time when Sicily was primarily known for mass-produced wines and the rest of Italy hardly looked at it. Count Giuseppe wanted to create a red wine that could compete with the world's great reds – without Cabernet, without Merlot, without a foreign language. Only the island itself.

Since then, the wine has been made from the same vineyard almost unchanged. Today, the vines of San Lucio are planted as Alberello – the oldest training style in the Mediterranean, low, bushy, without trellis – with 4,400 vines per hectare. They fight with the soil, not against it. The 2019 harvest fell on 29 September: a precise date that stands for a balanced, not too hot year. In 2019, Sicily had none of the extreme temperatures of the following years and the vineyard was allowed to ripen evenly. 53 per cent Nero d'Avola, 47 per cent Perricone – this blend varies slightly from vintage to vintage, but always remains in balance between the two Sicilian characters: Nero d'Avola, the dark, fleshy, full-bodied voice of the island; Perricone, the tart, spicier one, with that peculiar herbal depth that you won't find anywhere else. Twenty days of maceration in steel, full BSA, then eighteen months in new Liters Allier and Tronçais barriques. Exclusively new wood – no compromise, no half measures.

The result is a deep, bright ruby red wine. The nose opens slowly and without haste: first liquorice and espresso, then Amarena cherry, plum, cinnamon, tobacco and Mediterranean scrub – thyme, sage, dried tomatoes –in the background is the gentle murmur of new wood, which now blends in without dominating. On the palate, the 2019 is supple and surprisingly tense: the natural acidity keeps everything moving, the tannins are dense but integrated, the finish is long, spicy and persistently mineral. A wine with attitude. Rosso del Conte is not a wine for quick enjoyment. It needs air, time, a heavy, large glass and a table where there is no rush. Then it tells us what Sicily is – not the cliché, but the original. SUPERIORE.DE

"Bright, rich ruby colour. Compact nose with notes of wild raspberries and blueberries, plus some blood orange and cloves. Shows an emphatically pithy character on the palate, grippy tannins, dark berry fruit and plenty of tension, earthy notes on the final, currently still a little rough, but good potential." Falstaff

"Delicate aromas of bay leaf and graphite accentuate the bright core of ripe redcurrant and pomegranate purée in this lean, expressive red. Driven by fine-grained, sculpted tannins and lively acidity, this wine is tight-knit yet well-balanced overall. Fragrant notes of violets, paprika, aniseed, minerals and blood orange peel linger on the finish." Wine Spectator

"Tenuta Regaleali's flagship wine is the 2019 Sicilia Contea di Sclafani Rosso del Conte, a blend of 53% Nero d'Avola and 47% Perricone. This vintage shows burgeoning tertiary flavours with medicinal and balsamic herbs that give this wine extra lift and vertical intensity. However, they are very strong. Underneath is the fruit with blackberries, baked plums and black olives." Wine Advocate

"A ripe, juicy and floral red showing sweet raspberry, redcurrant, damp earth, chestnut and grapefruit. It has a medium to full body with creamy, powdery tannins and excellent length. There is a certain minerality on the finish." James Suckling

"The 2019 Rosso del Conte is a sleeping giant, slowly evolving with hints of crushed violet, stone dust, incense and white smoke enveloping a core of wild blueberry. The palate is soft and round, with juicy acidity and crisp berry fruit flavours underscored by a hint of tangerine and spice. Despite its youthful structure, the 2019 retains fantastic energy. Sweet tannins frame a lingering note of sour cherry that lasts well over a minute. I accompanied the 2019 over a 24-hour period, and it only got better each time I revisited it." Vinous