James Suckling

Monte Gibele is the mountain that towers over Pantelleria – and which means so much to Carlo Pellegrino that they have dedicated a wine to it. The family has had deep roots in Marsala since 1880, steeped in the aromas of the western Sicilian coast, Lake Stagnone and the island of Pantelleria. The Gibelè is their aromatic statement: Sicily's first dry Zibibbo. Making a dry Zibibbo sounds simple but is a bold move. The grape variety is naturally explosively aromatic and tends towards opulence. When vinified in stainless steel, in a cool and clean environment, it retains its freshness and loses its heaviness.

The name sounds familiar, but Araja opens a new chapter in Sardinian red wine culture: a fruity, focussed expression of Sulcis. The cuvée consists of 85% Carignano and 15% Sangiovese (!) and is produced on the red, sandy soils around the coastal area of Porto Pino. Here, the salty sea air characterises the grapes, while the chalky terraces provide structure. After careful fermentation, the wine matures in temperature-controlled stainless steel to preserve its expressiveness.

Intense violet colour in the glass. The bouquet of smoke, spices with traces of liquorice. Taut on the palate, then opening up and a mouthful of wine with everything the wine lover's heart desires when thinking of Puglia: harmony, fresh fruit and animating acidity, plus fine extract sweetness and well-worked tannins. SUPERIORE.DE

The name Rifugio – refuge – tells of underground hiding places where the inhabitants of Salento once protected themselves from danger. Today, an entire area near Veglie bears this name, where particularly high-quality Primitivo grapes thrive on alluvial, clayey soils with limestone deposits. The traditional Conti Zecca winery, owned by the noble family since the 16th century and one of the icons of Apulia with 320 hectares of vineyards, vinifies this single-varietal Primitivo using tried and tested methods: manual harvesting with selection at the sorting table, gentle destemming and pressing, twelve-day maceration at 25 degrees, alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Maturation takes place over twelve months in large oak barrels of 30 hectolitres and in resin-sealed concrete tanks, followed by a short period of maturation in the bottle.

What began in 2004 as a commemorative wine to mark the 50th harvest of Salice Salentino – Leone de Castris has been producing this Apulian classic since 1954 – became an established tradition thanks to its resounding success. Since then, a new vintage of the "50° Vendemmia" has been released every year. A Riserva that demonstrates how Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera find their powerful yet elegant expression on the red soils of Salento. The blend of 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera di Lecce undergoes an 8- to 12-day maceration at a controlled temperature of 20 to 22 degrees following selective harvest, before the wine is aged for twelve months in 30-hectolitre oak barrels. A further six months of bottle ageing round off the wine's development.

Pinot Grigio has an image problem. Somewhere between mass production in Veneto and its reputation as a run-of-the-mill international wine, the impression has taken hold that it is a wine without ambition. Anyone wishing to correct this impression should look to South Tyrol. In Alto Adige, the variety – originally from Burgundy – has found a terroir that gives it what it cannot get elsewhere: cool nights, altitudes between 300 and 500 metres, calcareous soils, and alpine precision. Cellar master Hans Terzer, one of the leading figures in South Tyrolean white wine for decades, has clearly defined the style: clean, single-varietal, and distinct in character. The St. Michael-Eppan Winery, founded in 1907 and supported by 340 member families, has turned this into one of its best-selling wines – and rightly so. 100% Pinot Grigio, fermented and aged exclusively in stainless steel.

A Pinot Gris that finds its finest expression in the South Tyrolean Unterland. For this wine, Peter Zemmer selects the finest grapes from vineyards in the valley floor and on the steep slopes around Kurtinig. The unique microclimate, the calcareous gravel soils formed from moraine sediments and the sandy alluvial soils create ideal conditions for this noble Burgundy variety. The ‘Ora’, that warm southerly wind from Lake Garda, ensures perfect aeration of the grapes and guarantees harvesthealthy, fully ripe harvest. Maturation on the fine lees for several months lends the wine complexity and a creamy mouthfeel.

As an entry into the world of Vino Nobile, Federico Carletti's Rosso reveals all its directness without false modesty. Eighty per cent Sangiovese – here honourably called "Prugnolo Gentile" – are combined with twenty per cent Merlot to create a cuvée that expresses the character of the galestro-rich clay soils unfiltered. This organically produced composition matures only briefly in historic barriques, emphasising the youthful freshness of the Sangiovese grape. Intense ruby-coloured tones reveal the power of the Tuscan sun, while a seductive interplay of sour cherries and dark forest fruits with herbal and floral nuances unfolds on the nose. On the palate, this Rosso presents itself with the typical Poliziano balance: velvety, elegantly structured, with a subtle tannin structure that never dominates, but harmoniously envelops the fruity core. An authentic ambassador of its terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

The country dance (controdanza) is a typical dance in which man and woman face each other and unite in graceful movements - depending on their gender, the dancers interpret the music in their own way. This wine is exactly the same: Nero d'Aola and Merlot - opposites attract and, with the right sensitivity, can harmonise and contrast wonderfully.

"Il Preliminare" - "The Preliminary Remarks". The names of Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti's wines are reminiscent of his father's world as a notary.

Roccamonfina is an extinct volcano in northern Campania – between Caserta and the border with Lazio, a few kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea. Its slopes are volcanic, rich in phosphorus, potassium and microelements, and for decades have been home to the indigenous grape varieties that have characterised this coastal landscape. Piedirosso – "red foot", after the characteristic red stems of the plant – is one of them: fresh, aromatic, with a mineral lightness that no other red wine in Campania can match. Villa Matilde Avallone, known for its Falerno del Massico classics, has created the Stregamora – the dark witch – a wine that shows the character of this volcano in its most accessible form. Hand-picked at the beginning of October, cold maceration, fermentation at 24°C for around 15 days, malolactic fermentation, three months ageing in steel.

Elisabetta Geppetti is more than just a winemaker – she is the "Signora del Morellino", the energetic woman who took over the reins of the family winery at the age of just 20 and helped the Maremma region to achieve international renown. When she pressed the first Morellino in 1985, she laid the foundations for a success story that continues to this day. This wine is the quantitative and qualitative calling card of Le Pupille – a constant, authentic expression of the terroir between Pereta and Magliano in Tuscany. The Morellino combines Sangiovese (90%) with Alicante and the autochthonous Ciliegiolo (5% each) from vineyards exposed to the south-west at an altitude of 50 to 250 metres. The vines, some of which are over 40 years old, are rooted in skeleton-rich, clayey and ferrous soils, cooled by sea breezes and strengthened by pronounced day-night temperature differences. After the harvest at the end of September, the must ferments on the skins for 15 days and matures for eight months, mainly in stainless steel tanks with a small proportion in used barriques.

"Cerasa" – means ‘cherry’ in the Sicilian dialect. And it has not only given this wine its name, but also its colour and character. Cerasuolo di Vittoria is Sicily’s only DOCG – the highest distinction that Italy’s appellation hierarchy can bestow, and one that has designated this area between the sea and the Iblean Mountains in the south-east of the island as exceptional since 2005. The vines are planted at Tenuta Dorilli, named after the nearby River Dirillo, on loose red sand with a layer of tuff 90 centimetres deep – —a soil profile that regulates the vines’ water supply in Vittoria and explains the characteristic freshness of these wines. Nero d’Avola brings body and dark fruit. Frappato – genetically related to Sangiovese – , brings floral notes, strawberry and lightness. Both are organically grown and hand-harvested.

In 1857, the brothers Giovan Battista and Gaetano Bertani founded their winery in the Valpantena valley, east of Verona. Not in the more famous Valpolicella Classica, but here – in a valley that has since borne the estate's name. A commercial document from the Verona Chamber of Commerce dating from 1888 confirms that Bertani Valpolicella Valpantena was already being marketed worldwide at that time as one of the finest examples of Italian wine. That was before Amarone, before the crus, before everything else. 80% Corvina Veronese, 20% Rondinella. Six months in concrete tanks, three months in the bottle. Direct, fresh, uncomplicated.

This Sangiovese expression full of character, which bears the authentic face of Chianti Classico, comes from the privileged vineyards around Castellina in Chianti. The Zingarelli family, who have been dedicated to this exceptional terroir for five decades, rely on hand-picked grapes, predominantly Sangiovese with a subtle proportion of Merlot, for their classic wine. Lively ruby red in the glass with a youthful brilliance. The intense bouquet develops ripe aromas of raspberries and wild strawberries, accompanied by notes of violets and an elegant spiciness with subtle nuances of wood. On the palate, the wine is balanced, structured and warm, with a silky body and fine, never intrusive tannins. The lively freshness harmonises perfectly with the fruity concentration and leads to a lingering aromatic finish. A Chianti Classico that masterfully combines tradition and modernity and expresses the typicality of its origin with youthful purity. SUPERIORE.DE

This still Muscat, which was conceived as the "little brother" of Torcolato and Acininobili, is a masterpiece and proves once again that Fausto Maculan is one of the world's best producers of dessert wines. Dindarello enchants with a marvellous blend of peach sorbet, kiwi and fresh mint. These aromas accompany the wonderfully full flavour right through to the finish. Its perfect balance between sweetness and acidity will ennoble any meal. SUPERIORE.DE

Poggio al Lupo brings the trendy white Vermentino variety in its sunny, Mediterranean form with clear elegance. A light, slightly golden straw yellow colour in the glass. The aroma is reminiscent of green mandarin, lemon zest, white peach and a hint of Mediterranean herbs. The palate is fresh, with animating acidity, delicate salty minerality, ripe fruit and crisp drinkability. Fruit sweetness and freshness balance each other out. An uncomplicated, reliable Tuscan from the west coast – lean, typical of the region and ideal with seafood, grilled vegetables or light fish. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine that tells in every facet where it comes from – that is Contado Riserva. Made from 100% Aglianico from organically farmed slopes of the Ramitello vineyard in Molise (Contrada Camarda), it shows the potential of this robust grape variety and the special region. The soil is calcareous with clay and sand, giving the wine mineral depth and vigour. The late harvest is followed by a long maceration period, after which the wine matures for a total of around three years: partly in barriques and tonneaux, partly in stainless steel tanks, and finally with extended bottle ageing. This careful ageing philosophy gives the wine complexity, elegance and a fine power of integration in every vintage.

The vines are planted where the Piedmont slopes gently at Canelli and the Barbera grape can develop its depth. The name is reminiscent of Cesare Pavese, the great son of these hills – and his most famous work "La Luna e i Falò". Like the novel, this wine also carries a quiet melancholy, paired with expression, maturity and identity. Matured in barriques and large casks for around a year, this is a Barbera full of character and at the same time modern.

Barbera with origin and attitude: La Villa has been Olim Bauda's favourite wine for decades – not because it is particularly loud, but because it seems so natural. No barrique, no spectacle, but plenty of character. The secret lies in the balance: fruit and freshness, elegance and energy – everything is there, nothing imposes itself. Bright ruby in the glass with a youthful violet colour. The bouquet plays on the fresh side: sour cherry, raspberry, dried herbs, a hint of violet and a delicate mineral note. On the palate, the typical tension of Asti-Barbera – juicy, clearly contoured, with supple tannins and fine length. A wonderfully authentic wine that breathes the soul of Piedmont – spontaneous, lively, unaffected. If you want to understand the essence of this grape variety, this is the perfect wine for every day. SUPERIORE.DE

Felsina's entry-level wine made from 100% Sangiovese from the border between Chianti Classico and the Colli Senesi. The vineyard, acquired by Domenico Poggiali in 1966, is located in Castelnuovo Berardenga on diverse soils of sandstone, marl and limestone. After temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, the wine matures for twelve months in medium-sized Slovenian oak barrels. Ruby red in colour with violet hues in the glass. Fruity aromas of wild berries and berry bush on the nose, complemented by pleasant spicy notes. Round and supple on the palate with well-structured tannins and a delicate final of red fruit and vanilla. A classic Chianti from the Colli Senesi, perfect for everyday enjoyment with meat dishes. SUPERIORE.DE