James Suckling

Pinot Grigio has an image problem. Somewhere between mass production in Veneto and its reputation as a run-of-the-mill international wine, the impression has taken hold that it is a wine without ambition. Anyone wishing to correct this impression should look to South Tyrol. In Alto Adige, the variety – originally from Burgundy – has found a terroir that gives it what it cannot get elsewhere: cool nights, altitudes between 300 and 500 metres, calcareous soils, and alpine precision. Cellar master Hans Terzer, one of the leading figures in South Tyrolean white wine for decades, has clearly defined the style: clean, single-varietal, and distinct in character. The St. Michael-Eppan Winery, founded in 1907 and supported by 340 member families, has turned this into one of its best-selling wines – and rightly so. 100% Pinot Grigio, fermented and aged exclusively in stainless steel.

Pinot Grigio is the most widely grown white grape variety in South Tyrol – and, at the same time, the most frequently misunderstood. Anyone who thinks it has only one character has not yet tasted one from the vineyards around Termeno. The Tramin Winery draws out everything this grape variety has to offer from the soil: calcareous clay and gravel soils, altitudes between 200 and 400 metres, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night that are typical of the valley. This is what gives the Pinot Grigio here its complexity. Vinified in stainless-steel tanks with careful temperature control – no wood, no distractions. What ends up in the glass is the vineyard itself.

Poggio al Lupo presents the trendy white variety Vermentino in its sunny, Mediterranean form with a distinct elegance. In the glass, it is a pale, slightly golden straw yellow. The aroma is reminiscent of green mandarin, lemon zest, white peach and a hint of Mediterranean herbs. On the palate, it is fresh, with lively acidity, a delicate salty minerality, ripe fruit and a crisp, easy-drinking character. Fruity sweetness and freshness are perfectly balanced. An uncomplicated, reliable Tuscan wine from the west coast – sleek, typical of the region and ideal with seafood, grilled vegetables or light fish dishes. SUPERIORE.DE

"Il Preliminare" - "The Preliminary Remarks". The names of Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti's wines are reminiscent of his father's world as a notary.

A Pinot Gris that finds its finest expression in the South Tyrolean Unterland. For this wine, Peter Zemmer selects the finest grapes from vineyards in the valley floor and on the steep slopes around Kurtinig. The unique microclimate, the calcareous gravel soils formed from moraine sediments and the sandy alluvial soils create ideal conditions for this noble Burgundy variety. The ‘Ora’, that warm southerly wind from Lake Garda, ensures perfect aeration of the grapes and guarantees harvesthealthy, fully ripe harvest. Maturation on the fine lees for several months lends the wine complexity and a creamy mouthfeel.

This powerful blend of Nero d'Avola and Syrah comes from Tenuta Presti e Pegni in Monreale and impressively demonstrates the versatility of Sicilian winemaking. The vineyards thrive at an altitude of 250 metres in the hills behind Palermo, where loamy soils and the Mediterranean microclimate create ideal conditions for international grape varieties. Just ten kilometres from the coast, the vines benefit from the cooling sea breeze, which tempers the heat of the day and ensures balanced ripening. The name Benuara is derived from a small flower that grows near Syracuse – a poetic reference to the southernmost regions of Sicily.

In the Middle Ages, it was a monk from Montepulciano Abbey who was the first to write down how to make wine from the local grapes. Sabatino Lulli, known as Sabazio, left behind no major works – just a few lines about the local grape varieties and how they were processed. La Braccesca has given its name to a wine that reflects this modesty: direct, fresh and uncomplicated. The Marchesi Antinori estate covers 500 hectares on the border between the Val di Chiana and the hills of Montepulciano, at an altitude of around 280 metres. 85% Prugnolo Gentile – the local Sangiovese clone that gives Rosso di Montepulciano its characteristic freshness and fruitiness – complemented by 15% Merlot, which contributes body and smoothness. Both varieties are harvested separately: the Merlot in mid-September, the Prugnolo Gentile a month later. Separate fermentation in steel, short malolactic fermentation in large casks, followed by four months' ageing. Fresh, light, with no hint of oak.

"Cerasa" – means ‘cherry’ in the Sicilian dialect. And it has not only given this wine its name, but also its colour and character. Cerasuolo di Vittoria is Sicily’s only DOCG – the highest distinction that Italy’s appellation hierarchy can bestow, and one that has designated this area between the sea and the Iblean Mountains in the south-east of the island as exceptional since 2005. The vines are planted at Tenuta Dorilli, named after the nearby River Dirillo, on loose red sand with a layer of tuff 90 centimetres deep – —a soil profile that regulates the vines’ water supply in Vittoria and explains the characteristic freshness of these wines. Nero d’Avola brings body and dark fruit. Frappato – genetically related to Sangiovese – , brings floral notes, strawberry and lightness. Both are organically grown and hand-harvested.

The vines for this fresh Müller-Thurgau are trained using the Guyot method on south/south-west-facing hillsides at an altitude of 500 to 800 metres above sea level, on soils consisting of loam and weathered porphyry. A rich yellow-green colour, with intense aromas of fruit, flowers and a subtle nutty note. On the palate, the depth of fruit, delicate mineral and salty notes, and well-integrated acidity lend the wine powerful elegance and character. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1857, the brothers Giovan Battista and Gaetano Bertani founded their winery in the Valpantena valley, east of Verona. Not in the more famous Valpolicella Classica, but here – in a valley that has since borne the estate's name. A commercial document from the Verona Chamber of Commerce dating from 1888 confirms that Bertani Valpolicella Valpantena was already being marketed worldwide at that time as one of the finest examples of Italian wine. That was before Amarone, before the crus, before everything else. 80% Corvina Veronese, 20% Rondinella. Six months in concrete tanks, three months in the bottle. Direct, fresh, uncomplicated.

This still Muscat, which was conceived as the "little brother" of Torcolato and Acininobili, is a masterpiece and proves once again that Fausto Maculan is one of the world's best producers of dessert wines. Dindarello enchants with a marvellous blend of peach sorbet, kiwi and fresh mint. These aromas accompany the wonderfully full flavour right through to the finish. Its perfect balance between sweetness and acidity will ennoble any meal. SUPERIORE.DE

Elisabetta Geppetti is more than just a winemaker – she is the "Signora del Morellino", that dynamic woman who, at the age of just 20, took the reins of the family-owned winery and helped bring the Maremma to international prominence. When she pressed the first Morellino in 1985, she laid the foundations for a success story that continues to this day. This wine is Le Pupille's calling card, both in terms of quantity and quality – a consistent, authentic expression of the terroir between Pereta and Magliano in Toscana.

A wine that tells in every facet where it comes from – that is Contado Riserva. Made from 100% Aglianico from organically farmed slopes of the Ramitello vineyard in Molise (Contrada Camarda), it shows the potential of this robust grape variety and the special region. The soil is calcareous with clay and sand, giving the wine mineral depth and vigour. The late harvest is followed by a long maceration period, after which the wine matures for a total of around three years: partly in barriques and tonneaux, partly in stainless steel tanks, and finally with extended bottle ageing. This careful ageing philosophy gives the wine complexity, elegance and a fine power of integration in every vintage.

Andrian's Burgundian classic finds its South Alpine expression at altitudes of between 300 and 500 metres on calcareous loam-dolomite soils. These lower-lying vineyards offer the Pinot Bianco ideal ripening conditions: early morning sun combined with sufficient coolness for the thin-skinned, pressure-sensitive berries. Temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel and six months' ageing on the fine lees give Finado its characteristic texture and complexity.

The vines are planted where the Piedmont slopes gently at Canelli and the Barbera grape can develop its depth. The name is reminiscent of Cesare Pavese, the great son of these hills – and his most famous work "La Luna e i Falò". Like the novel, this wine also carries a quiet melancholy, paired with expression, maturity and identity. Matured in barriques and large casks for around a year, this is a Barbera full of character and at the same time modern.

Produced using the appassimento or Amarone method, this Valpolicella has a rich ruby-violet colour. The nose has compact notes of ripe cherries, blackberries, some cloves, elderberries and liquorice, with subtle notes of chocolate in the background. Silky texture with an abundance of sweet fruit, balanced by salty minerals and savoury spices. A hint of sour tangerine and citrus adds further depth. The finish is long, colourful and structured, with a hint of sweet tannins providing grip. Rich and powerful with a lot of melting on the palate, very classic! SUPERIORE.DE

On the well-aerated limestone-porphyry soils at altitudes of between 260 and 380 metres, the world's most widely grown white grape variety thrives to southern Alpine perfection. These mid-altitude vineyards around Andrian offer Chardonnay the ideal microclimate: Mediterranean warmth combined with cool nights, ensuring optimal aroma development. The grapes are hand-selected, fermented at a controlled temperature in stainless steel and aged on the fine lees for six months, which gives Somereto its characteristic creaminess and texture.

Belguardo – the beautiful view. The Mazzei family gave their Maremma estate this name in 1997, and it's a fitting one: from the hills between Grosseto and Montiano, the view stretches all the way to the Tyrrhenian Sea, which lies just ten kilometres away. This proximity is not merely a romantic detail – it is terroir. The sea breezes cool the vineyards every day, slowing down the ripening process and preserving the freshness that characterises the Vermentino grown on these sandy Arenaria soils.

Borrigiano – named after the inhabitants of the medieval village of Il Borro – marks a special chapter in the history of the Ferragamo family. As the estate's first wine to bear the prestigious Valdarno di Sopra DOC designation, it embodies the tradition of an appellation that was recognised as one of the first four Tuscan wine regions as early as 1716 by Cosimo III de' Medici. Grown in organically farmed vineyards at altitudes of between 300 and 500 metres in the Valdarno Valley, this elegant cuvée is made from 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. The unique soil composition – characterised by sandstone, clay and fossilised marine deposits from a prehistoric lake – lends the wine its characteristic minerality. Ten months' ageing in large wooden casks preserve the vibrant fruit and create a harmonious balance between tradition and innovation.

On the label, a moth flutters, circling a flame that will ultimately consume it. Beneath it is a Latin palindrome, the author of which is lost in the mists of history, probably dating from the 13th century: "In girum imus nocte et consumimur igni" – we circle in the night and are consumed by fire. A phrase that reads the same forwards as it does backwards, as if it too were trapped within the very circle it describes. Moths inevitably fly towards the light at night, often until they perish in it – an ancient metaphor for human desire itself, which draws us in like a flame until it has completely consumed us. The same struggle, the same attraction, from antiquity to the present day, without end.

100% Sangiovese Grosso from the argilloso-sandy soils of the estate, interspersed with fossils, marl and limestone – the foundation on which the Brunello vines of Camigliano also stand. After 10 to 15 days of maceration and temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, the wine matures for six months in large French and Slavonian oak barrels, followed by six months of rest in the bottle. The 2024 vintage benefited from a cool, rainy September, which gave the Sangiovese the necessary time for slow, complete phenolic maturation after a hot summer – the result is wines of unusual freshness and fine contours.

Unlitro – a name that says it all and, at the same time, sums up Ampeleia's entire philosophy. At a time when wines are becoming increasingly complex, the team led by Elisabetta Foradori and Giovanni Podini is returning to the essence of winemaking: to create an honest, easy-drinking wine that expresses the beauty of the Maremma landscape without any frills. The grapes for this special blend of Alicante Nero, Sangiovese, Carignano, Mourvèdre and Alicante Bouschet come from the organically farmed vineyards near Roccatederighi. Here, just a few kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, the vines thrive on the Maremma's characteristic Galestro and Alberese soils at an altitude of 200–400 metres. The Mediterranean climate, with its warm days and cool sea breezes, creates ideal conditions for wines of natural balance and freshness.