James Suckling

The name is a tribute. Maria Iris Bertarelli – co-founder and the heart and soul of Collemassari – is the woman who, together with her brother Claudio Tipa, acquired the abandoned castle in Montecucco in 1998 and planted it with a vision: that this forgotten hilly landscape between Montalcino and Scansano had what it takes to become an appellation in its own right. Irisse is her wine. Vermentino with up to 25% Grechetto – more body, more substance. But what really sets Irisse apart from Melacce is the short maceration on the skins, followed by twelve months' ageing in large oak casks. This yields a depth one rarely expects from Vermentino.

The Maremma is a land of red wine. Morellino di Scansano, Saffredi, great Sangiovese and Cabernet – these are the images that characterise this coastal region of southern Tuscany. Elisabetta Geppetti, who has been regarded as an ambassador for this region for decades, took a different approach in 1997: a white wine made from northern grape varieties – Sauvignon Blanc, Petit Manseng, Traminer, Semillon – planted in the south. The result is called Poggio Argentato, a white wine with – as Geppetti herself puts it – "a French accent and a Tuscan soul". The grapes come from two vineyards: Pian di Fiora near Pereta, on tuff-rich, alabaster-laden soil with a south-easterly aspect, and San Vittorio near Scansano, on clayey silt with quartz and igneous rock, open to the north-east where it catches the sea breezes. Altitude 200 to 250 metres, 6,500 vines per hectare. The Sauvignon Blanc is aged exclusively in stainless steel. The other varieties spend a short time in second-use tonneaux. Five months on the fine lees – for texture and depth without any hint of oak.

Delicate rosé, aromatic, vinous fragrance with notes of roses, violets and undergrowth. Fresh on the palate with fine acidity, soft and a slightly salty note. An Aglianico Rosato that does not conceal its volcanic origins and is not easily forgotten. SUPERIORE.DE

An Aglianico with character and provenance: Cappellaccio is grown on limestone soils at an altitude of around 300 metres, near the Castello di Federico II – after whom the DOC is named. Ageing in barriques and large wooden casks for 12 months lends the wine structure and maturity. In the glass, it is a deep ruby colour with a garnet-red rim. On the nose, it offers notes of black cherry, prune, liquorice, balsamic herbs and a hint of tobacco. On the palate, it is concentrated, with firm tannins, dark spice and mineral freshness. A powerful yet surprisingly precise Aglianico from the limestone-rich slopes of northern Murgia – a masculine wine with depth and potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Intense ruby red with a sparkling centre. Suculé immediately shows that it wants to be more than a classic Barbera. The fragrance caresses the senses with ripe sour cherry, blackberry, rose petals and a fine hint of vanilla – a complex, inviting bouquet. Velvety and dense on the palate and perfectly balanced: juicy red fruit meets a harmonious structure, a supporting sweetness and a subtle hint of minerality on the finish. Maturation for 18 months in barriques ensures velvety depth and length. A powerful but elegantly interwoven Barbera with format and accessibility. SUPERIORE.DE

Dark, almost impenetrable ruby red colour with violet reflections. The aroma combines ripe black cherry, blackberry and cassis with fine notes of liquorice, dark chocolate and a spicy hint of pepper. A gentle smokiness from the ageing in barriques frames the multi-layered bouquet. Full-bodied on the palate, with juicy fruit fullness and velvety embedded tannins. The cuvée of Barbera, Merlot, Nebbiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon combines power and elegance, while the fresh acidity ensures balance. The long, spicy finish makes you want to savour the next sip. A modern Langhe Rosso full of character that skilfully combines international grape varieties with a Piedmontese heart. SUPERIORE.DE

The hill. A solitary, 50-metre-high ridge south of Margreid, which gives the Pinot Grigio its name and its character. The soil is unusual: grey, loamy sand with a high clay content – no porphyry, no limestone gravel, but rather a soft, nutrient-rich deposit that gives the Pinot Grigio a richness and freshness that poorer soils cannot provide. Margreid's Mediterranean climate – warm summers, mild winters, the afternoon Ora breeze from Lake Garda – ensures the grapes ripen evenly and develop their aromas. Hand-harvested, clarified must, three weeks' fermentation in stainless steel, five months on the fine lees.

Berg. The name gives away its origins. The higher elevations in the Adige Valley, on the right bank of the Adige, on soils of porphyry and limestone, which give the Pinot Bianco its mineral freshness and structure. The alpine climate, with mild summer months and cool autumns, slows down the ripening process – the harvest takes place in mid-October, considerably later than for comparable white wines. This patience pays off. In 1932, the winegrowers of Nals and Margreid founded their co-operative on a simple principle: better together than alone. This principle still applies today – to 140 member estates, which supply their grapes with the same care as they did back then.

Margreid is situated in the southern Unterland, where the Adige widens and the climate becomes more Mediterranean. The Ora, the warm afternoon breeze from Lake Garda, sweeps through the vineyards every day, bringing with it the warmth that makes the Chardonnay from these vineyards so full-bodied and aromatic. The soil is the opposite of barren: brooding, white limestone gravel with a high humus content – nutrient-rich, water-retaining, and possessing a minerality that gives the wine its name. Limestone. No further description is needed. Nals Margreid cultivates the Kalk Chardonnay on gently sloping vineyards in Margreid at altitudes of 220 to 350 metres.

The Rosso di Montalcino from Caparzo embodies the philosophy of a house that has been one of the pioneers of modern Montalcino since 1970. Under the visionary leadership of Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini, wines are created here that perfectly express the terroir understanding of the various micro-locations. This Rosso is far more than just the "little brother" of the legendary Brunello – it is a wine of character in its own right, combining the youthful freshness of the Sangiovese grape with the complexity of different vineyards. The grapes come from three strategically selected vineyards that cover the entire spectrum of the Caparzo terroirs: In the north, the Caparzo site at an altitude of 220 metres, in the south Il Cassero at 270 metres and in the east San Piero-Caselle at 250 metres. This diversity of locations – from the warmer, early-ripening sites to the higher, cooler terroirs – enables the cellar team to create the optimum blend depending on the character of the vintage.

The name tells a story: Barco Reale means "royal enclosure" and refers to the historic Medici hunting reserve, which was established in 1626 – a ring of walls over 50 kilometres long surrounded the area where Sangiovese, Cabernet and Canaiolo thrive today. Barco Reale Rosso is the younger, more accessible version of Carmignano DOCG, was awarded its own DOC status in 1994 and epitomises the elegance of this small but important Tuscan appellation. Tenuta di Capezzana has been run by the Contini Bonacossi family for five generations and represents over seventy per cent of the entire Carmignano production. The first documented mention of Capezzana dates back to 804, and as early as the 16th century, Caterina de' Medici had Cabernet cuttings brought to Carmignano from Bordeaux – centuries before the Super Tuscans discovered this idea for themselves. The winery has been certified organic since 2009.

Guarnaccio is called Perricone in the old Regaleali dialects and stands for a long, almost forgotten tradition of indigenous red wines. The vines are rooted on 2.6 hectares in the historic Vigneto Ciminnita, newly planted in 2011, on brooding, fine clayey soil with a sparse limestone flow. Rich in polyphenols and with spicy flavours, the Guarnaccio evokes memories of an ancient winemaking tradition.

Swiss precision meets Tuscan elegance in this characterful Super Tuscan, which has embodied the Widmer family's DNA for over four decades. The name carries a dual meaning: three grape varieties and three terroirs, which Barbara Widmer blends into a harmonious cuvée with inimitable finesse. This blend, comprising 70% Sangiovese, is sourced from the vineyards of Castellina in Chianti, Radda in Chianti and the Maremma, and is refined with 15% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The continental Chianti vineyards, situated at altitudes of 230–400 metres with their soils interspersed with clay and galestro, meet the Mediterranean Maremma terroir with its sandy loam soils, which lend the wine its characteristic depth. 

Silìneo – a neologism born from the fusion of "sinuoso" (supple) and "lineo" (linear). The name epitomises what this wine is all about: elegance, suppleness, balance and harmony. It is the most classic wine from Fattoria del Cerro and has been the most successful for years. Silìneo is made from 90 per cent Sangiovese (locally called Prugnolo Gentile) and ten per cent Merlot and Colorino, from vineyards in Acquaviva di Montepulciano on soils of marine Pliocene origin with clay and silt between 250 and 400 metres above sea level. After manual harvesting, fermentation takes place with maceration at 24 to 28°C with daily overflow and délestage. The wine then matures for seven months in tonneaux, followed by eleven months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

A wine like an ecosystem: Misto Mare is no ordinary white wine, but a polyphonic ode to nature from the Alois Lageder winery. The blend combines grapes from over 14 white and red grape varieties grown in organically or biodynamically managed vineyards that are currently in the process of transitioning to organic certification. The grapes come from a wide range of altitudes across South Tyrol – a reflection of the region's diversity, captured in a single wine. The name draws on the region's geological past: around 200 million years ago, South Tyrol was covered by a primeval sea. Today, vines grow on what was once the seabed, their complexity evoking the former depths and the intricate balance of marine ecosystems.

A youthful classic with history: Collecastrese is a single-varietal Falanghina from the wine-growing region around Monte Massico – an old cultivation centre of the legendary Falerno wines. The limestone and tufa soils lend the wine a mineral freshness, while the proximity to the coast promotes mild ripeness and aromatic clarity. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with a greenish-yellow hue. On the nose, ripe peach, green pear, tropical fruit notes such as pineapple and mango, accompanied by floral nuances. On the palate, it has a charming smoothness, clean fruit and fine acidity; the salty minerality characterises the long, fresh finish. An uncomplicated but expressive introduction to the world of Villa Matilde – a Falanghina with character, balance and a regional profile. SUPERIORE.DE

A top-class Valpolicella, fine and haunting spicy flavour with a full and fleshy fruit development of blackberries and cherries. Medium to full-bodied with good intensity and a firm tannin structure, with a wonderfully pleasant bitter note on the long finish. The delicious harmony between aroma and flavour is a delight. SUPERIORE.DE

This Dolcetto comes from the gently sloping, gravelly and limestone-rich plots around Barolo, and has always been regarded by Sandrone as a wine with a character all of its own. Hand-harvested at the end of September, with spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel and gentle ageing in neutral oak, this wine preserves the varietal character whilst imparting structure. In the glass, it displays a clear, luminous purple colour with violet highlights. The bouquet is as inviting as it is precise: black cherry, blackberry and plum, complemented by violet blossoms, almonds and a hint of graphite. On the palate, it displays a harmonious blend of juicy fruit, finely integrated acidity and ripe, slightly firm tannins. The medium-length finish carries mineral notes and a hint of herbal spice. A Dolcetto with substance and nobility, which brings the estate's philosophy – clarity, balance and elegance – to life even in what is supposedly the simplest of grape varieties. SUPERIORE.DE

Sparkling, bright salmon pink colour. Delicately fragrant nose of fresh peach, white flowers, some cherry fruit, underpinned by light spice. Very juicy, clear on the palate, with a cool fruit centre and well-integrated acidity. This incredibly racy rosato dances in its slender purity from the first to the last glass. SUPERIORE.DE

In the heart of Bolgheri, where Marilisa Allegrini and her late brother Walter realised their Tuscan dream in 2001, an ancient tradition is being revived. Cassiopea takes its name from the constellation that shines brightly above the 70-hectare Poggio al Tesoro estate – a cosmic 'W' for Walter or 'M' for Marilisa, depending on your perspective in the night sky over the Costa Toscana. This elegant rosé hails from the prestigious Le Sondraie vineyard, which was once leased to Ornellaia and now forms the heart of the Allegrini vision. The 'soprastrada' site, situated east of the famous Strada Bolgherese, is regarded as the highest-quality area in Bolgheri. Here, where the Seggio stream has carried minerals from the nearby hills for centuries, complex soils of sand, clay and pebbles with a high magnesium content create ideal conditions for both grape varieties.

A dry Zibibbo (Moscato from Alexandria) from the island of Pantelleria, grown at altitudes of around 300 metres on iron-rich soils of volcanic origin. Isesi is delicately floral, with aromas of honeysuckle and perfumed star jasmine, which is aptly known in Italy as Sicilian jasmine. On the palate, it is dry and well-balanced, with just the right amount of softness, freshness and lightness that make this high-quality white wine so incredibly charming and delicate. SUPERIORE.DE