James Suckling

Mario Schiopetto was born in 1930, he grew up in the family-owned Osteria ai Pompieri and had his first professional experiences as a fireman and later as a truck driver. In 1963, guided only by his taste and love of wine, he began to devote himself to wine production in his parents' farm and produced the first pure Tocai in 1965. The historic label at the time included the drawing of his fire engine, which he also used to deliver the wine to customers. With the 2019 vintage, the winery recalled these historical roots and resumed the cute drawing on part of its wine labels.

Gewürztraminer is at home all over the world – in France, Germany, Austria and overseas. Yet it owes its name to a single place: Termeno, which the Romans called Tramin, in the heart of South Tyrol’s Unterland region. Here, in the warmest, most Mediterranean part of South Tyrol, the grape variety develops the aromatic intensity that makes it so distinctive. The Leiten vineyards of Nals Margreid lie precisely in this Unterland region: on broodingclay-gravel over limestone soils, a subsoil that stores heat and enhances the natural aromatics of Gewürztraminer. The climate is Mediterranean – — warm summers, mild winters, and the daily Ora breeze from Lake Garda as an invigorating element. Hand-harvested, clarified must, three weeks’ fermentation in stainless steel, five months on the fine lees.

Pinot Bianco was first introduced to South Tyrol as early as 1850 – and the Schulthaus vineyard, above Castel Moos in Appiano Monte, is probably the most historic site for Pinot Bianco in the entire municipality. The Schulthauser has been bottled as a wine in its own right since 1982 – and since then it has become one of the best-known expressions of this grape variety in South Tyrol. The vineyards are situated at altitudes of 540 to 620 metres, facing south-east, on limestone gravel soils with a slight clay content – high enough for the evening downdrafts from the Mendel Mountains to exert their cooling effect every day. Hand-harvested at the end of September. In the cellar: 85% fermented in stainless steel, 15% in large wooden casks with malolactic fermentation. In February, the wines are blended to create a wine that combines creamy smoothness and pronounced acidity in a rare harmony.

Sand. The name says it all – both geologically and in terms of what it stands for. The Lagrein vineyards are situated in Gries, a district of Bolzano, at an altitude of 250 metres in that enclosed valley basin, which is one of the warmest sites in the whole of South Tyrol. Sandy alluvial soils from the Talfer river, interspersed with porphyry – a subsoil that stores heat, releases it slowly and gives Lagrein the depth it needs to reach its full potential. Mediterranean, hot, with an intensity not found in the cooler, higher altitudes of the mountains. Lagrein is South Tyrol's most distinctive indigenous red wine variety: dark and fruity, rich in tannins, with a characteristic bitter almond note on final that makes it unmistakable. Hand-harvested, carefully destemmed, fermented in stainless steel with gentle pumping-over, followed by malolactic fermentation, then aged for seven months in 40-hectolitre wooden barrels.

The porphyry soils on which the vines for the successful cooperative winery's first organic wine are grown are of volcanic origin, and the former lava flows gave the elegant, fresh wine its name. It is a perfectly successful symbiosis of the organic origins of the Bolzano region and the contemporary high standards of fresh and crisp South Tyrolean white wines. Bright straw yellow in colour with greenish reflections. Full bouquet of ripe apple, peach and hints of tropical fruit. Firm, precise and well-structured on the palate, its pleasant acidity carries it into a remarkable finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for this Ripasso come from the Marne Bianche vineyard at Tenuta Maternigo – a vineyard that the Tedeschi family has been cultivating for generations. Corvina and Corvinone (35% each), Rondinella (20 per cent) and 10 per cent indigenous varieties such as Rossignola, Oseleta, Negrara and Dindarella grow here on moraine loam and limestone at a density of 5,500 vines per hectare. Vinification follows the classic Ripasso method: after 15 days’ maceration at 28°C, the young Valpolicella undergoes secondary fermentation on the pomace of Amarone and Recioto – for eight to ten days at a cool 18°C. This second fermentation lends the wine body and depth without stifling its freshness. It is then aged for 15 months in Slavonian oak and a further six months in the bottle.

Brigaldara's Ripasso is created by the secondary fermentation of Valpolicella wine on the pomace of Amarone della Valpolicella. The contact between the Valpolicella wine and the Amarone marc, which is still rich in sugar, triggers a new fermentation. Bright ruby red colour. Bright and cheerful with aromas reminiscent of dried cherry, plum, pear and apricot. This wine shows plenty of bright fruit definition with subtle hints of tobacco, spice and rose petal. The finish is smooth, polished and soft in tannin structure. Very structured and balanced, gaining complexity and finesse with further bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

The evening downdrafts from the Mendel Mountains give the entire terroir of the St. Michael-Eppan Winery its distinctive character. They ensure cool nights and endow the grapes with those exceptional qualities that define the wines' aromas, their unmistakable freshness and their longevity. The downwind is the natural force that sweeps across the vineyard every day, positively influencing the climate and supporting the valuable work of the winegrowers at the cooperative winery. The Fallwind wines are ambassadors for their terroir and uniquely reflect the strengths of the growing region. Most are sourced from selected vineyards where wine has been grown for centuries. Strict quality guidelines, low yields, intensive manual labour in the vineyard, and gentle, individual ageing in the cellar make them what they are: wines full of character, precise and unique, which win over every connoisseur with their varietal characteristics.

The grapes for the Galea Vernatsch come from old vines that grow on gravel and porphyry soils. Bright ruby colour, vinous aromas and an appetisingly fresh scent of red cherries. Juicy and fruity on the palate, with velvety tannins, harmonious with fine minerality and good length. SUPERIORE.DE

Fallwind wines are ambassadors for their terroir and reflect the strengths of the growing region in a unique way. Most are produced from selected vineyards where wine has been grown for centuries. Strict quality guidelines, low yields, intensive manual labour in the vineyard, and gentle, individual vinification in the cellar make them what they are: wines full of character, precise and unique, which will win over every connoisseur with their varietal characteristics.

The evening downdrafts from the Mendel Mountains give the entire terroir of the St. Michael-Eppan Winery its distinctive character. They ensure cool nights and endow the grapes with those exceptional qualities that define the wines' aromas, their unmistakable freshness and their longevity. The downwind is the natural force that sweeps across the vineyard every day, positively influencing the climate and supporting the valuable work of the winegrowers at the cooperative winery. The Fallwind wines are ambassadors of their terroir and uniquely reflect the strengths of the growing region. Most are sourced from selected vineyards where wine has been grown for centuries. Strict quality guidelines, low yields, intensive manual labour in the vineyard, and gentle, individual vinification in the cellar make them what they are: wines full of character, precise and unique, which win over every connoisseur with their varietal characteristics.

Tenuta Missoj is a small winery in Mizzole with just 3.5 hectares of vineyards and is owned by the Campagnola family. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of 200 metres on a well-ventilated and exposed hill, where the grapes can reach perfect and complete ripeness. The new prestige wine Valpolicella Ripasso "Tenuta di Missoj" comes from these soils, which already impressively showcased the typical characteristics of the appellation in the 2019 debut vintage.

Expressive Vermentino from naturally farmed vineyards in Castagneto Carducci. The 2024 vintage featured mild weather with sunny days and cool nights – an ideal profile for freshness and aromatic clarity. The wine fermented in stainless steel at a low temperature and then matured for several months on the fine lees to optimise the fruit and structure.

Pojega is a historic vineyard next to the famous Pojega garden, which was purchased by the Rizzardi family in the 17th century. This single-vineyard Valpolicella skilfully combines the fruitiness and aromatic richness of the traditional grape, enhanced by the Ripasso method, with a well-proportioned body and exceptional finesse. Great value with an almost magnetic attraction! SUPERIORE.DE

Flavours of blueberries and blackberries, with a hint of lightly toasted oak. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and lots of fruit, some caramel and vanilla pods. Expressive aftertaste. Pure Syrah. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for this single-varietal Pinot Bianco come from altitudes of up to 700 metres around the municipality of Montan. Delicate greenish-yellow in colour, with a fine bouquet of green apple, lemon, chalk and some crushed rock. Fine texture on the palate, with good structure and excellent depth. The spicy, fruity finish is characterised by precise, linear acidity and notes of pear and apple. Great and very balanced! SUPERIORE.DE

Where the salty breezes of the Tyrrhenian Sea meet the last foothills of the Colline Metallifere, the Mediterranean character of this exceptional red wine unfolds in all its splendour. The name Mediterra says it all: it embodies the flavours of the Tuscan maquis and that enticing saltiness that only wines from the immediate vicinity of the sea are capable of developing.

Straw yellow with green reflections and visibly fine perlage from 30 days of yeast ageing. Fine citrus notes with further nuances of yellow fruit such as pear or mild apple, slightly nutty in the background. A fresh, invigorating sparkling wine with the necessary depth and noticeable body that does honour to its famous producer. SUPERIORE.DE

Only 1.5 kilometres separate the vineyards of Capitel Croce and Foscarino – but geologically they are worlds apart. While Foscarino is rooted in volcanic rock, Croce is enthroned on the pure limestone of the Zoppega hill. "Croce like Calcareo", Roberto likes to say as a mnemonic. Here, in the highest areas of his estate, perhaps his most uncompromising wine has been growing since 1982: 100 per cent Garganega, matured for eight months in old Allier barriques. What makes this wine so exceptional is not just its origin, but Roberto's radical approach: only 45 hectolitres per hectare, late selective harvest with up to twelve passes until only the most perfect berries remain. Fermentation takes place directly in barriques, allowing fruit and wood to merge right from the start.

In 2001, Michele and Massimo Bernetti of Umani Ronchi stood on Centovie Hill near Roseto degli Abruzzi. Before them lay the estate, behind it the Gran Sasso, and below it the Adriatic Sea. They bought the 35 hectares and immediately began farming organically – not as a certified commitment, but because the terroir demanded it: sunny and windy, with self-regulating soil requiring no intervention. They produced the estate"s first wine as a Pecorino. From the best plots of the vineyard, hand-harvested in early September with particular attention to acidity, on deep, clay-sandy limestone soil with alluvial skeleton. Fermented in steel, then 12 months in concrete tanks, followed by 5 months in bottle.

The little cherry. The name reveals its personality: this autochthonous Maremma variety openly bears its flavour in its name, and it means business. Ciliegiolo was at home in Maremma for a long time, but then fell out of fashion because Cabernet and Sangiovese virtually monopolised the region's attention. Now it is returning – and Belguardo is one of the first houses to take it seriously again. The vineyards are situated at 100 metres, west-facing, on sandy Arenaria soils with a fine pebble content. The western exposure gives the wine a freshness and lightness that cannot be taken for granted in the Maremma. Francesco Mazzei describes it as "exceptionally lively and fresh – and surprisingly deep at the same time."

A deep yellow colour; the bouquet is elegant and fragrant, with notes of exotic fruits, peach, lemon zest, hazelnut and chalk. Medium to full-bodied, with layers of ripe fruit and bright, penetrating acidity. A polished, long and delicate finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Irpinia is not Campania in the tourist sense – no sea, no Vesuvius, no Amalfi Coast. It is the inland area behind Avellino, a world of Apennine hills, chestnut forests and tranquillity, where viticulture has been deeply rooted since ancient times. Columella and Pliny already mentioned Fiano – as "Vitis Apicia" because of its ability to attract swarms of bees to the vineyards. Feudi di San Gregorio has been committed to this tradition in Sorbo Serpico since 1986. Pietracalda is their most precise expression of Fiano: a single vineyard of ten hectares, nestled between chestnut woods and old fruit trees at an altitude of 400 to 600 metres – a terroir that provides Fiano with freshness. Hand-picked, fermented in temperature-controlled steel, then aged sur lie for twelve months – longer than the normal Fiano, and it is precisely this difference that characterises the Riserva: more texture, more depth, more substance.