James Suckling

An international white wine in a region that is world-famous for its great red wines? Pecchenino dared to try this experiment in Bossolasco at an altitude of 700 metres, and the challenge was mastered with flying colours. Here, where one would expect to find Arneis or Cortese, Riesling Renano thrives on calcareous soils with marl and white clay. The south-easterly exposure and the cool, high-altitude climate of the Alta Langa create ideal conditions for the crystalline acidity and aromatic precision that characterise great Rieslings from France and Germany. The grapes are harvested in mid-September when perfectly ripe, cooled to 12°C in the cellar and gently pressed. This is followed by ten months of ageing on the fine lees with repeated bâtonnage and a further six months of bottle ageing.

At the heart of the north-eastern Etna amphitheatre, where Silvia Maestrelli's vision turned to stone, lies Fessina: a name that sounds like a whisper through the volcanic winds. Here, in the Frazione Rovittello of Castiglione di Sicilia, between two ancient lava flows from 1809 and 1911, a dream came true in 2007. Silvia, the pioneer – a Tuscan with a Milanese soul and a Sicilian heart – was the first woman on the volcano to recognise the extraordinary potential of this difficult, masculine earth. With the tenacity of a visionary and the sensitivity of a "female oenological vision", she created a refuge of excellence after long negotiations with the countless owners of the fragmented plots.

Since the 2015 vintage, Piancornello has been producing a Ciliegiolo in small quantities of 4,000 bottles, which is solid, deep and very distinctive. Intense ruby red colour. The nose reveals very pure, straightforward aromas of ripe cherries and sour cherries, rounded off with spicy notes and hints of medicinal herbs. In the mouth it is rich, with noticeable tannins, but well integrated into the structure, with a solid body and a flavourful, long finish of good complexity. SUPERIORE.DE

Between the lava flows of Rovittello, a wine is created that reveals the delicate side of the volcano. Erse Rosato, made predominantly from Nerello Cappuccio and a smaller proportion of Nerello Mascalese from the only hectare of vineyards exposed to the north-east at an altitude of 700 metres. Here, where the morning breeze blows up from the Alcantara Valley and the afternoon heat is kept at bay by the ancient sciare, a rosato of exceptional personality develops. The two Nerello varieties are vinified separately with a cold maceration of 12 hours at 12-14°C to gently extract colour and aromas before being combined for alcoholic fermentation and subsequent refinement in stainless steel tanks.

Montessu is wild, sun-drenched and surprisingly polished. The result of a collaboration between big names in the Italian wine world, including legends such as Sebastiano Rosa and Giacomo Tachis, this red wine combines the best of Mediterranean vigour and French grape variety expertise. Carignano sets the tone, flanked by Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc – all grown on the dry, mineral soils of the Sulcis, in the hot south-west of the island. The grapes are harvested by parcel, fermented separately and matured in small French barriques. The result is a dense but finely structured red wine with Sardinian character and international finesse.

Tolaini is reorganising its Chianti Classico line with the 2024 vintage: The previous Vallenuova Annata will be promoted to Riserva, to be replaced by this entry into the house – named after the winery itself. The grapes come from the vineyards around the estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southernmost corner of Chianti Classico, where silty-clayey soils with limestone and stones characterise the Sangiovese.

Mussels in the vineyard? Not uncommon in Valdarno di Sopra. Where today Chardonnay vines take root at the foot of the Pratomagno, millions of years ago there was a lake – the metamorphic soils are criss-crossed with fossilised evidence of that era. The name "Lamelle" honours these grooves in the fossilised shells, which give the wine its unmistakable minerality. After being harvested by hand, the grapes are left to rest overnight at 5°C before being gently pressed. Pure stainless steel vinification at 16°C, two months on the fine lees – that's all it takes to capture the freshness of this terroir.

Nero di Lupo is COS’s elegant take on Nero d’Avola – , interpreted as light, fruity and mineral. The vines are rooted in red, calcareous loam soils, interspersed with sandy deposits and layers of silicate that have shaped the character of Vittoria over thousands of years. At an altitude of around 230–300 metres, these soils bring freshness and vibrancy to the wine – a clearly defined reflection of the terroir.

Where the Lombards once built their fortress and Frederick II held court, Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi now cultivates his vines – a descendant of Bettino Ricasoli, who invented the Chianti formula in the 19th century. Monti in Chianti, situated at an altitude of 340 to 510 metres, is considered one of the best vineyards in the entire region. Limestone soils, organic farming and three-phase manual harvesting form the basis for this classic Chianti: 90% Sangiovese, supplemented by Canaiolo from our own selection. Matured for twelve months in Allier oak, bottled unfiltered.

Giardino Pantesco is a liquid short holiday on Pantelleria – as golden as a last ray of sunshine at sunset, carried by the history and terroir of this magical island. The name refers to the "Giardini Panteschi", the centuries-old dry stone walls built in a round shape that intercept the wind and stabilise the microclimate for crops such as the gnarled Zibibbo vine. Those who savour this passito will feel the reverence for this landscape and tradition with every sip.

A circular forest sits enthroned on the highest point of the vineyard, and inside it rests an Etruscan tomb – over 2,500 years old. Al Passo, "at the passage", is what they call this place, from where the view extends as far as the Torre del Mangia in Siena. Here, where past and present meet, the estate's most popular cuvée is created: equal parts Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown on the silty-clayey limestone soils of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Double selection, 20 days on the skins, then 14 months in French oak – six of which on the fine lees, which gives the wine its silky texture.

A Sangiovese cru that demonstrates the philosophy of single-vineyard viticulture to perfection. Sergio Zingarelli and his team recognised early on the extraordinary potential of the clay-dominated soils of Sant'Alfonso – plots with minimal skeleton content, which create the ideal conditions for concentrated, aromatically complex wines. Sangiovese clones were specifically cultivated here, which harmonise with the clay-rich structures and develop the highest phenol concentrations.

Ten days before the main harvest for Redigaffi and Giusto di Notri, the pre-harvest begins at Tua Rita – a selection in the younger vineyards, whose grapes should not achieve the extreme concentration of the great crus, but rather freshness and accessibility. This conscious decision gives rise to the Rosso dei Notri, the house's calling card since 2000. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon form the foundation in equal parts, while Syrah and Cabernet Franc add spice and structure. The vineyards are located on the metalliferous hills near Suvereto, where loamy soils with a high proportion of skeleton give the wines the mineral precision that characterises Tua Rita. Vinification in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature, ageing in cement – no wood flavour should mask the clear fruit.

Castello di Semivicoli is a great Rosso from the Chieti area and Masciarelli's first red wine cuvée. The vines in the vineyards of the province of L'Aquila were planted by Gianni Masciarelli in 2003. Medium-bodied purple red. On the nose black berries and nice peppery notes with some tobacco, violets and vanilla. Powerful and silky on the palate, polished tannin and a wonderfully fruity finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Barbara Widmer's Chianti Classico emphasises clarity and origin: 100% Sangiovese from plots in Castellina and Radda (230–400 metres), on limestone and clay soils with south to south-west exposure. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, followed by around twelve months in stainless steel and cement on the fine lees – deliberately without the use of wood to allow the grape variety to speak purely and precisely. Bright ruby red in colour with a cherry-red core. Juicy cherry, redcurrant and violet on the nose, with a hint of herbs and wet stone. Straightforward and animating on the palate: fresh, finely chiselled acidity, taut, young tannins and a salty, minerally finish that gives length. A classic, straightforward Chianti Classico with elegant tension, clear fruit, cool contours and a very nice drinking flow. SUPERIORE.DE

Vigna di Gabri is a classic white wine with high standards that realises the idea of an elegant, autochthonous Sicilian wine in a refined form. Ansonica (Inzolia) forms the basis, supplemented by smaller proportions of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Catarratto – a finely balanced cuvée with origin and style. The grapes come from the hills of Contessa Entellina, where limestone-rich soils and high altitudes ensure freshness and aromatic complexity. Bright straw yellow in colour with golden reflections. The bouquet smells of white peach, candied lemon, herbs and some broom, underpinned by fine mineral notes. Structured and smooth on the palate, with clear fruit, fine flavour and well-integrated acidity. A well-balanced, pleasantly dry white wine with fine complexity – ideal with fish, white meat or Sicilian cuisine with a fresh herbal flavour. For us, Vigna di Gabri is and remains one of the discreet and high-quality classics in Donnafugata's portfolio. SUPERIORE.DE

Floramundi combines the sensual power of Nero d'Avola with the elegance of Frappato – a classic Cerasuolo di Vittoria that charmingly harmonises the DOCG origin, freshness and finesse. The vines grow in south-east Sicily on red sand and limestone soils around Vittoria. Maturation in stainless steel tanks followed by ageing in the bottle preserves the freshness and aromatic expressiveness of this traditional appellation.

Novaserra Greco di Tufo is the most famous white wine icon from Mastroberardino – a prime example of the depth and elegance that this grape variety can achieve. The grapes come from the best vineyards around Tufo, where calcareous and sulphurous soils give the wine its distinctive mineral signature. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. The nose seduces with yellow plum, candied lemon, ripe pear, lime blossom and a hint of flint. Dense and harmonious on the palate, with ripe fruit, fine herbal spice and a salty vein. A Greco di Tufo of calibre every year – powerful, elegant and clear in its terroir expression. SUPERIORE.DE

Ornello is an open wine with beautiful, inviting aromas of ripe, dark fruit, cedar wood, dried herbs, tobacco and incense. All of this has a pleasant depth. Medium to full-bodied with supple tannins and a juicy, ripe finish. Very good value. SUPERIORE.DE

Goldmuskateller is one of the oldest grape varieties in South Tyrol, which until a few years ago was still considered moody and demanding. Manincor shows what this diva can become when given the right sites: Mareit Leiten at 350 metres, extremely steeply exposed to the south with warm gravel soils and moraine deposits. In addition, Vogelleiten and Panholzer with loamy limestone gravel soil – sites where the exuberant growth of the Muscat is tamed and reaches perfect ripeness. The destemmed berries macerate in the press for twelve hours to extract flavour and structure from the skins. Fermentation takes place in wooden barrels and steel tanks, mostly spontaneously with wild yeasts. During the five-month maturation on the fine lees, the aroma and flavour are refined – the wine develops the balance between fruit and minerality that characterises dry Muscat.

For decades, Radici has been synonymous with Mastroberardino's uncompromising work on the great indigenous grape varieties of Campania. The grapes for this Fiano icon come from high-altitude plots near Lapio, whose volcanic soils and cool continental microclimate give the grape variety exceptional tension, aromatic depth and longevity.

The name Glarea is of Rhaeto-Romanic origin and means gravel. The grapes for this mineral and very harmonious Chardonnay grow at an altitude of around 250 metres on the lower part of the Höllenbach debris cone in soils rich in limestone and gravel. Thanks to the low hillside location and the proximity to the valley floor, a unique microclimate is created here, characterised by considerable temperature fluctuations. During the day, the Glarea vineyards enjoy very warm temperatures, which are replaced by cool air masses in the late hours of the night and early morning, giving it a lovely tautness and freshness.