James Suckling

In May, when the iris – known as "giaggiolo" in Tuscan – bathes the vineyards of Lamole in a violet glow, the soul of this wine is revealed. The name Maggiolo was born from the fusion of 'flower' and 'month': a Chianti Classico that captures the sunny generosity of the high-altitude vineyards, situated between 420 and 655 metres, in liquid form. Unlike the purist Duelame, the Maggiolo relies on a blend of 80% Sangiovese with 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Following visual selection of the grapes, they are fermented separately in stainless steel. The Sangiovese matures for 18 months in large oak casks, whilst the international varieties are aged in barriques; a marriage of structure and suppleness.

Tenuta San Leonardo is a name synonymous with red wine. For generations, the Guerrieri Gonzaga family in Avio, in southern Trentino, has been producing a Bordeaux blend that connoisseurs mention in the same breath as Italy's finest wines. Far fewer people are aware that the estate also produces white wine (and rosé) – and does so with the same precision. Vette di San Leonardo takes its name from the peaks that frame the vineyards. "Vette" – peaks, summits – is the image San Leonardo has chosen for this Sauvignon Blanc: high-altitude, crisp, unmistakable. The grapes come from Roveré della Luna, a village on the border between Trentino and Alto Adige, which ranks among the finest Sauvignon Blanc sites in northern Italy. With the Dolomites as a backdrop, cool nights and a long ripening process on the vine. Hand-harvested in September. Exclusively stainless steel, no oak. Five months sur lie on the fine lees – for texture and depth without any external ageing.

With the 2024 vintage, Tolaini is revamping its Chianti Classico range: the previous Vallenuova Annata has been promoted to Riserva, and this entry-level wine – named after the estate itself – takes its place. The grapes come from the vineyards surrounding the estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southernmost corner of the Chianti Classico region, where silty-clay soils mixed with limestone and stones shape the character of the Sangiovese.

Between the lava flows of Rovittello, a wine is created that reveals the delicate side of the volcano. Erse Rosato, made predominantly from Nerello Cappuccio and a smaller proportion of Nerello Mascalese from the only hectare of vineyards exposed to the north-east at an altitude of 700 metres. Here, where the morning breeze blows up from the Alcantara Valley and the afternoon heat is kept at bay by the ancient sciare, a rosato of exceptional personality develops. The two Nerello varieties are vinified separately with a cold maceration of 12 hours at 12-14°C to gently extract colour and aromas before being combined for alcoholic fermentation and subsequent refinement in stainless steel tanks.

Nero di Lupo is COS’s elegant take on Nero d’Avola – , interpreted as light, fruity and mineral. The vines are rooted in red, calcareous loam soils, interspersed with sandy deposits and layers of silicate that have shaped the character of Vittoria over thousands of years. At an altitude of around 230–300 metres, these soils bring freshness and vibrancy to the wine – a clearly defined reflection of the terroir.

Where the Lombards once built their fortress and Frederick II held court, Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi now cultivates his vines – a descendant of Bettino Ricasoli, who invented the Chianti formula in the 19th century. Monti in Chianti, situated at an altitude of 340 to 510 metres, is considered one of the best vineyards in the entire region. Limestone soils, organic farming and three-phase manual harvesting form the basis for this classic Chianti: 90% Sangiovese, supplemented by Canaiolo from our own selection. Matured for twelve months in Allier oak, bottled unfiltered.

A circular forest sits enthroned on the highest point of the vineyard, and inside it rests an Etruscan tomb – over 2,500 years old. Al Passo, "at the passage", is what they call this place, from where the view extends as far as the Torre del Mangia in Siena. Here, where past and present meet, the estate's most popular cuvée is created: equal parts Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown on the silty-clayey limestone soils of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Double selection, 20 days on the skins, then 14 months in French oak – six of which on the fine lees, which gives the wine its silky texture.

A Sangiovese cru that demonstrates the philosophy of single-vineyard viticulture to perfection. Sergio Zingarelli and his team recognised early on the extraordinary potential of the clay-dominated soils of Sant'Alfonso – plots with minimal skeleton content, which create the ideal conditions for concentrated, aromatically complex wines. Sangiovese clones were specifically cultivated here, which harmonise with the clay-rich structures and develop the highest phenol concentrations.

Ten days before the main harvest for Redigaffi and Giusto di Notri, the pre-harvest selection begins at Tua Rita – a selection from the younger vineyards, whose grapes are not intended to achieve the extreme concentration of the great crus, but rather to offer freshness and approachability. This deliberate choice gives rise to the Rosso dei Notri, which has been the estate's flagship wine since 2000. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon form the foundation in equal parts, whilst Syrah and Cabernet Franc add spice and structure. The vineyards are situated on the metal-rich hills near Suvereto, where loamy soils with a high proportion of coarse particles lend the wines that mineral precision which characterises Tua Rita. Vinification takes place in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks, followed by ageing in concrete – no woody notes are allowed to mask the pure fruit.

Castello di Semivicoli is a great Rosso from the Chieti area and Masciarelli's first red wine cuvée. The vines in the vineyards of the province of L'Aquila were planted by Gianni Masciarelli in 2003. Medium-bodied purple red. On the nose black berries and nice peppery notes with some tobacco, violets and vanilla. Powerful and silky on the palate, polished tannin and a wonderfully fruity finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Elisabetta Geppetti has dedicated this Rosato to a woman who came before her: Rosa Mati – the first in the family to believe in the Maremma when others were still turning a blind eye. A woman who invested when this wild coastal landscape in south-western Tuscany was not yet a wine-growing region in the modern sense. That belief was the beginning of everything that Le Pupille is today. And the wine that bears her name is Elisabetta Geppetti's most personal creation – unchanged in its conviction since the first vintage in 2002: 100% Syrah, as a rosé. This is not an obvious choice. In the Maremma, Syrah is primarily known as a powerful red wine. Turning it into a rosé – transparent, fresh, elegant – requires precision.

Ornello is an open wine with beautiful, inviting aromas of ripe, dark fruit, cedar wood, dried herbs, tobacco and incense. All of this has a pleasant depth. Medium to full-bodied with supple tannins and a juicy, ripe finish. Very good value. SUPERIORE.DE

Barbara Widmer's Chianti Classico has for years been characterised by clarity and terroir: 100% Sangiovese from plots in Castellina and Radda (230–400 m), on limestone- and clay-rich soils with a south to south-west aspect. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged for around twelve months on the fine lees in stainless steel and cement tanks – deliberately without the use of wood, to allow the grape variety to express itself purely and precisely.

Montessu is wild, sun-drenched and surprisingly refined. Born out of a collaboration between some of the biggest names in the Italian wine world, including legends such as Sebastiano Rosa and Giacomo Tachis, this red wine combines the best of Mediterranean vigour with French expertise in grape varieties. Carignano sets the tone, flanked by Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc – all grown on the dry, mineral-rich soils of the Sulcis region in the hot south-west of the island. The grapes are harvested plot by plot, fermented separately and aged in small French barriques. The result is a dense yet finely structured red wine with Sardinian character and an international polish.

Floramundi combines the sensual power of Nero d'Avola with the elegance of Frappato – a classic Cerasuolo di Vittoria that charmingly harmonises the DOCG origin, freshness and finesse. The vines grow in south-east Sicily on red sand and limestone soils around Vittoria. Maturation in stainless steel tanks followed by ageing in the bottle preserves the freshness and aromatic expressiveness of this traditional appellation.

Novaserra Greco di Tufo is Mastroberardino's most famous iconic white wine – a prime example of the depth and elegance that this grape variety can achieve. The grapes come from the finest vineyards around Tufo, where limestone and sulphurous soils lend the wine its distinctive mineral character. In the glass, it is a luminous straw yellow with golden highlights. The nose entices with notes of yellow plum, candied lemon, ripe pear, lime blossom and a hint of flint. On the palate, it is dense and harmonious, with ripe fruit, subtle herbal notes and a salty undertone. Year after year, this is a Greco di Tufo of distinction – powerful, elegant and with a clear expression of its terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

When the morning dew moistens the young Vermentino vines of Gallura, it provides the inspiration for Lintóri – Sardinian for "Rugiada del mattino". Since 2010, the traditional Capichera winery has been producing this deliberately fresh expression of its Vermentino range from the youngest vineyards between Arzachena, Olbia and Palau. Where ancient granite formations meet sea breezes, this 100% Vermentino thrives on sandy, stony soils of volcanic origin. The hand-picked grapes, harvested in late August, are aged in stainless steel, thus preserving their crystalline minerality.

For decades, Radici has been synonymous with Mastroberardino's uncompromising dedication to Campania's great indigenous grape varieties. The grapes for this iconic Fiano come from high-altitude plots near Lapio, where the volcanic soils and cool, continental microclimate lend the grape variety exceptional vibrancy, aromatic depth and ageing potential.

Back in the 1980s, Antonio Mastroberardino was one of the first to experiment with something that was almost considered a provocation at the time: he vinified Aglianico, the large, tannin-rich red wine variety from southern Italy, as a white wine. He called the result "Plinius". The experiment lay dormant until the family revived it under a new name: Neroametà – "half black" – a tribute to the grape's origins and the courage to think differently. 100% Aglianico, grown in Mirabella Eclano at 400 metres, in deep, sandy-loamy soils with a volcanic matrix and clay at depth – the same terroir that produces the Taurasi DOCG. Hand-picked in mid-October. Then the decisive step: Vinification without any contact with the skins, in steel tanks at a controlled temperature, followed by ten months on the lees and at least 18 months of ageing in the bottle. The colour stays outside – elegance and minerality are allowed inside.

The Rosato from the Alta Mora range is made from old Nerello Mascalese vines growing on slopes between 600 and 800 metres above sea level on the northern flanks of Mount Etna. The sparse, volcanic soils, characterised by lava rock and mineral ash, lend the wine a tension typical of its terroir and a delicate, salty depth. The grapes are harvested early and pressed immediately to preserve their freshness and finesse. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel.

At some point in the past, a small metal plate on the roof of the Castagnedi farmstead in the Monti Garbi moved in the wind – like a flag, a "bandina". A landmark for all those who knew these hills. Today, it is the name of the single vineyard that lies at the heart of the Tenuta. Colognola ai Colli, eastern Valpolicella: calcareous sandy soils at around 300 metres. This is the terroir that has belonged to the four Castagnedi brothers since 1995 and which characterises their wines with a characteristic balsamic: liquorice, white mint, graphite, China. Corvina and Corvinone form the backbone with 70%, Rondinella brings freshness, Croatina and Oseleta the flavour. Hand-picked in October, fermentation at a controlled temperature with certified organic yeasts, natural malo. Then aged for 24 months in 25-hectolitre French oak tonneaux – medium roasted, integrated, never dominant.

The name Lepus – Latin for 'hare' – refers to the heraldic animal of the Haas family, who have been based in the picturesque village of Montagna, south of Bolzano, since 1880. What began as a small family business developed under Franz Haas into one of South Tyrol's most visionary wineries, causing a stir with its striking artist-designed labels by Riccardo Schweizer and its consistent use of screw caps. Lepus embodies the classic elegance of South Tyrolean white wine: made from 100% Pinot Bianco, the grapes come from vineyards in three different sites at altitudes of between 400 and 800 metres around Montagna, facing south and south-west on geologically diverse soils – ranging from loose sandy soils to dense, weathered porphyry. Vinification takes place 80% in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks and 20% in small oak barriques, followed by several months of ageing on the lees.