James Suckling

Since the 2015 vintage, Piancornello has been producing a Ciliegiolo in small quantities of 4,000 bottles, which is solid, deep and very distinctive. Intense ruby red colour. The nose reveals very pure, straightforward aromas of ripe cherries and sour cherries, rounded off with spicy notes and hints of medicinal herbs. In the mouth it is rich, with noticeable tannins, but well integrated into the structure, with a solid body and a flavourful, long finish of good complexity. SUPERIORE.DE

Mussels in the vineyard? Not uncommon in Valdarno di Sopra. Where today Chardonnay vines take root at the foot of the Pratomagno, millions of years ago there was a lake – the metamorphic soils are criss-crossed with fossilised evidence of that era. The name "Lamelle" honours these grooves in the fossilised shells, which give the wine its unmistakable minerality. After being harvested by hand, the grapes are left to rest overnight at 5°C before being gently pressed. Pure stainless steel vinification at 16°C, two months on the fine lees – that's all it takes to capture the freshness of this terroir.

Between the lava flows of Rovittello, a wine is created that reveals the delicate side of the volcano. Erse Rosato, made predominantly from Nerello Cappuccio and a smaller proportion of Nerello Mascalese from the only hectare of vineyards exposed to the north-east at an altitude of 700 metres. Here, where the morning breeze blows up from the Alcantara Valley and the afternoon heat is kept at bay by the ancient sciare, a rosato of exceptional personality develops. The two Nerello varieties are vinified separately with a cold maceration of 12 hours at 12-14°C to gently extract colour and aromas before being combined for alcoholic fermentation and subsequent refinement in stainless steel tanks.

Tolaini is reorganising its Chianti Classico line with the 2024 vintage: The previous Vallenuova Annata will be promoted to Riserva, to be replaced by this entry into the house – named after the winery itself. The grapes come from the vineyards around the estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southernmost corner of Chianti Classico, where silty-clayey soils with limestone and stones characterise the Sangiovese.

Montessu is wild, sun-drenched and surprisingly polished. The result of a collaboration between big names in the Italian wine world, including legends such as Sebastiano Rosa and Giacomo Tachis, this red wine combines the best of Mediterranean vigour and French grape variety expertise. Carignano sets the tone, flanked by Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc – all grown on the dry, mineral soils of the Sulcis, in the hot south-west of the island. The grapes are harvested by parcel, fermented separately and matured in small French barriques. The result is a dense but finely structured red wine with Sardinian character and international finesse.

Where the Lombards once built their fortress and Frederick II held court, Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi now cultivates his vines – a descendant of Bettino Ricasoli, who invented the Chianti formula in the 19th century. Monti in Chianti, situated at an altitude of 340 to 510 metres, is considered one of the best vineyards in the entire region. Limestone soils, organic farming and three-phase manual harvesting form the basis for this classic Chianti: 90% Sangiovese, supplemented by Canaiolo from our own selection. Matured for twelve months in Allier oak, bottled unfiltered.

Pinot Grigio is sometimes mass-produced in northern Italy. Millions of bottles, pale style, interchangeable. And then there is the Cantina Terlan, alongside a few other serious winegrowers. At 270 to 350 metres, on the gently sloping porphyry slopes around Terlan, the Ruländer – as its old, more appropriate name – tells a different story. Hand-picked, gentle pressing, slow fermentation in steel, 5–7 months on the fine lees: a vinification that gives the grape variety room to show itself.

Giardino Pantesco is a liquid short holiday on Pantelleria – as golden as a last ray of sunshine at sunset, carried by the history and terroir of this magical island. The name refers to the "Giardini Panteschi", the centuries-old dry stone walls built in a round shape that intercept the wind and stabilise the microclimate for crops such as the gnarled Zibibbo vine. Those who savour this passito will feel the reverence for this landscape and tradition with every sip.

Pian di Nova embodies a sophisticated blend of 75% Syrah and 25% Sangiovese, which combines the international vigour of the Syrah grape with the lively fruitiness of Tuscan Sangiovese. It represents a new generation of Tuscan red wines that harmoniously balance tradition and innovation. The hand-picked grapes come from organically cultivated vineyards at the foot of Monte Pratomagno, where loamy-sandy soils at an altitude of 200 metres offer optimal drainage. After cooling to 5°C at night, the grape varieties are vinified separately: two days of cold maceration, ten days of controlled fermentation at 25-28°C, followed by a further 20 days of skin maceration. Six months of ageing in Allier oak barriques, one month in steel tanks and a further six months of bottle ageing complete this elegant blend.

A circular forest sits enthroned on the highest point of the vineyard, and inside it rests an Etruscan tomb – over 2,500 years old. Al Passo, "at the passage", is what they call this place, from where the view extends as far as the Torre del Mangia in Siena. Here, where past and present meet, the estate's most popular cuvée is created: equal parts Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown on the silty-clayey limestone soils of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Double selection, 20 days on the skins, then 14 months in French oak – six of which on the fine lees, which gives the wine its silky texture.

A Sangiovese cru that demonstrates the philosophy of single-vineyard viticulture to perfection. Sergio Zingarelli and his team recognised early on the extraordinary potential of the clay-dominated soils of Sant'Alfonso – plots with minimal skeleton content, which create the ideal conditions for concentrated, aromatically complex wines. Sangiovese clones were specifically cultivated here, which harmonise with the clay-rich structures and develop the highest phenol concentrations.

Next to the Villa della Torre in Fumane, this elegant testimony to the Italian Renaissance, lies a vineyard that awoke from its slumber in 1960. Giovanni Allegrini recognised the potential of the neglected terrain and began to recultivate it. In 1978, it became a wine in its own right and the name became the programme: Palazzo della Torre, a cru that brought Allegrini international fame. Six times in the Wine Spectator Top 100, the secret? In 1990, Franco Allegrini introduced an innovation that changed Valpolicella: double fermentation. Some of the grapes, Corvina, Rondinella and Sangiovese, undergo a short appassimento. The freshly fermented wine is then added to this dried marc, where a second fermentation begins. More elegant than Ripasso, more complex than classic Valpolicella.

Ten days before the main harvest for Redigaffi and Giusto di Notri, the pre-harvest begins at Tua Rita – a selection in the younger vineyards, whose grapes should not achieve the extreme concentration of the great crus, but rather freshness and accessibility. This conscious decision gives rise to the Rosso dei Notri, the house's calling card since 2000. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon form the foundation in equal parts, while Syrah and Cabernet Franc add spice and structure. The vineyards are located on the metalliferous hills near Suvereto, where loamy soils with a high proportion of skeleton give the wines the mineral precision that characterises Tua Rita. Vinification in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature, ageing in cement – no wood flavour should mask the clear fruit.

Castello di Semivicoli is a great Rosso from the Chieti area and Masciarelli's first red wine cuvée. The vines in the vineyards of the province of L'Aquila were planted by Gianni Masciarelli in 2003. Medium-bodied purple red. On the nose black berries and nice peppery notes with some tobacco, violets and vanilla. Powerful and silky on the palate, polished tannin and a wonderfully fruity finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Barbara Widmer's Chianti Classico emphasises clarity and origin: 100% Sangiovese from plots in Castellina and Radda (230–400 metres), on limestone and clay soils with south to south-west exposure. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, followed by around twelve months in stainless steel and cement on the fine lees – deliberately without the use of wood to allow the grape variety to speak purely and precisely. Bright ruby red in colour with a cherry-red core. Juicy cherry, redcurrant and violet on the nose, with a hint of herbs and wet stone. Straightforward and animating on the palate: fresh, finely chiselled acidity, taut, young tannins and a salty, minerally finish that gives length. A classic, straightforward Chianti Classico with elegant tension, clear fruit, cool contours and a very nice drinking flow. SUPERIORE.DE

Vigna di Gabri is a classic white wine with high standards that realises the idea of an elegant, autochthonous Sicilian wine in a refined form. Ansonica (Inzolia) forms the basis, supplemented by smaller proportions of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Catarratto – a finely balanced cuvée with origin and style. The grapes come from the hills of Contessa Entellina, where limestone-rich soils and high altitudes ensure freshness and aromatic complexity. Bright straw yellow in colour with golden reflections. The bouquet smells of white peach, candied lemon, herbs and some broom, underpinned by fine mineral notes. Structured and smooth on the palate, with clear fruit, fine flavour and well-integrated acidity. A well-balanced, pleasantly dry white wine with fine complexity – ideal with fish, white meat or Sicilian cuisine with a fresh herbal flavour. For us, Vigna di Gabri is and remains one of the discreet and high-quality classics in Donnafugata's portfolio. SUPERIORE.DE

Novaserra Greco di Tufo is the most famous white wine icon from Mastroberardino – a prime example of the depth and elegance that this grape variety can achieve. The grapes come from the best vineyards around Tufo, where calcareous and sulphurous soils give the wine its distinctive mineral signature. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. The nose seduces with yellow plum, candied lemon, ripe pear, lime blossom and a hint of flint. Dense and harmonious on the palate, with ripe fruit, fine herbal spice and a salty vein. A Greco di Tufo of calibre every year – powerful, elegant and clear in its terroir expression. SUPERIORE.DE

Ornello is an open wine with beautiful, inviting aromas of ripe, dark fruit, cedar wood, dried herbs, tobacco and incense. All of this has a pleasant depth. Medium to full-bodied with supple tannins and a juicy, ripe finish. Very good value. SUPERIORE.DE

Goldmuskateller is one of the oldest grape varieties in South Tyrol, which until a few years ago was still considered moody and demanding. Manincor shows what this diva can become when given the right sites: Mareit Leiten at 350 metres, extremely steeply exposed to the south with warm gravel soils and moraine deposits. In addition, Vogelleiten and Panholzer with loamy limestone gravel soil – sites where the exuberant growth of the Muscat is tamed and reaches perfect ripeness. The destemmed berries macerate in the press for twelve hours to extract flavour and structure from the skins. Fermentation takes place in wooden barrels and steel tanks, mostly spontaneously with wild yeasts. During the five-month maturation on the fine lees, the aroma and flavour are refined – the wine develops the balance between fruit and minerality that characterises dry Muscat.