James Suckling

In the sun-drenched hills of Castelnuovo Berardenga, where Fèlsina has been one of the undisputed stars of Chianti Classico since 1966, the Poggiali family is writing another story: that of a world-class Tuscan Chardonnay. I Sistri – named after the traditional rattling instruments of the ancient mystery cults – epitomises the experimental passion that led Fèlsina to plant French Chardonnay clones on the nearby Farnetella vineyard back in the early 1980s. Between the Ombrone river and the Poggiolo farm, various plots with different clones, rootstocks and soil formations produce the grapes that have formed the heart of I Sistri since 1987.

A Carignano that stays – in the glass, in the memory and in the terroir. Is Solinas is the creamy, smoky expression of one of the southernmost wines in Europe, precisely moulded from 100% Carignano del Sulcis. Smooth extraction, controlled fermentation and around one year of ageing in French barriques – this creates a dense texture without losing its freshness. Deep ruby colour with a violet sheen in the glass. The nose opens with intense, ripe aromas: blackcurrant, ripe plum and fine jam notes, accompanied by balsamic herbs, liquorice and a hint of aromatic spice. The wine remains warm and juicy on the palate, with velvety tannins and a harmonious flow. The fruit is dense, the acidity provides balance – and the mineral note carries the long, spicy finish into the memory. Is Solinas is powerful, but never loud. A Riserva with a strong character that carries time and the island within it – it has a large profile, an elegant demeanour and a sensual and clear expression. SUPERIORE.DE

2021 was a year with an ideal vegetation balance in Abruzzo: cool springs, a sunny but not overheated summer and healthy, late-picked grapes. This organic Riserva is traditionally vinified and matures for around 18 months in large wooden barrels and barriques. Deep ruby colour with a light purple hue in the glass. Juicy black cherry, blackcurrant, dried herbs, liquorice and a hint of dark chocolate on the nose. On the palate, it is denser and more structured than the previous vintage - with fine tannins, fresh acidity and a long, spicy finish. A Riserva with a clear line and great inner balance. SUPERIORE.DE

F for Falò – bonfire. The name alludes to the traditional bonfires that are lit in Salento at the winter solstice. Cantine San Marzano dedicates a single-varietal Negroamaro to this custom, emphasising the dark, intense side of this indigenous grape variety. The grapes grow on the calcareous, iron oxide-rich soils between San Marzano di San Giuseppe and Sava. After manual harvesting, the grapes undergo prolonged maceration, followed by twelve months of ageing in Caucasian oak barrels – an unusual choice of wood that gives the wine its own aromatic signature.

The Vernatsch from Manincor comes from the monopoly position "der Keil" on Lake Kaltern – one of the warmest vineyards in South Tyrol. At an altitude of 250 metres, old vines are rooted in traditional pergola training on calcareous, sandy loam soils. The south-facing aspect with a direct view of the lake ensures optimum heat accumulation and perfect ripening conditions. After a wet spring in 2024 and a hot summer, the golden autumn brought physiologically ripe grapes with moderate alcohol and a cool character. The grapes were harvested by hand in mid-September at an ideal degree of ripeness and a yield of 60 hectolitres per hectare. The destemmed grapes ferment spontaneously with wild yeasts in open wooden vats. During the one-week mash fermentation at a moderate 24°C, the cap is gently punctured only once a day – minimal intervention for maximum fruit clarity. The wine then matures for five months on the fine lees in large wooden barrels, where the flavours are refined and the natural elegance of the Vernatsch comes to full fruition.

In 1987, Castello Romitorio was not yet a winery. Just a castle, an artist and an idea. Sandro Chia bought grapes from his friend and cellar master Franco Martini and had the first wine vinified – even before a single vine of his own had ripened. That was the Romitorio: not a reaction, but an attitude. Today it grows at Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte in Scansano, 25 kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, at an altitude of 170 metres. The soils are of Pliocene origin – galestro, clay, Alberese, interspersed with fossils and shell remains, remnants of a primeval seabed. Petit Verdot and Syrah give the wine its profile: fermentation in steel, ageing in cement and oak.

This rare Riserva comes from the historic vineyards of the Garofoli family in Montecarotto – a selection of the purest Verdicchio grapes from the classic hills of the Castelli di Jesi. The family has been cultivating the noble Verdicchio grape on these medium loamy soils with sandy and calcareous inclusions for five generations. The lowest yields per hectare and the latest possible hand-picking guarantee the highest concentration for this top wine.

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

In school philosophy, A quo denotes the starting point of an argument – the place from which everything else begins. Fabio Chiarelotto has dedicated a wine to this Latin thought. And what he meant was: Montepeloso begins here. The Swiss national with a Tuscan mother bought the estate in Suvereto, near Bolgheri – one of the hottest wine-growing regions in Tuscany. What others drown in heat, he wanted to translate into elegance. He replanted, pruned, worked biodynamically and bet that it was possible to make wines that glow instead of sweat on these limestone-rich, fossilised clay and silex soils. 2024 shows that he was right. The blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malvasia Nera and other varieties is fermented in steel, then matured for twelve months in used barriques – no wood to cover the fruit, just one that polishes delicately. Bottled unfiltered.

A red wine full of character from the southern shore of Lake Garda, made from Marzemino, Sangiovese and a hint of Cabernet Sauvignon. The vines grow on clayey and calcareous moraine soil, which gives the wine structure and minerality. Deep ruby red colour with a purple core in the glass. The bouquet opens with ripe wild berries, sour cherry and plum, as well as notes of violet, black pepper and a hint of liquorice. Powerful yet supple on the palate, with juicy fruit, well-integrated tannins and fine spice. A fresh, supporting acidity provides balance and flow. An expressive red wine with a regional accent that shines with both strong meat dishes and mature cheese. SUPERIORE.DE

Sodale presents Merlot in its clearest and most charming form: This single-varietal representative grows on calcareous hillsides around Montefiascone – where fresh evening air promotes sophistication and elegance. The 2022 vintage is characterised by optimally ripe harvest, while the cool nights have allowed the vines to retain balance and a fine acid structure. Brilliant ruby red in the glass with a light violet rim. The bouquet seduces with aromas of blackcurrant, ripe plum, dark cherry and a hint of floral violet notes, accompanied by delicate hints of herbs. Juicy and harmonious on the palate with velvety tannins, lingering fruit sweetness and a lively texture. The subtle acidity lends freshness and encourages drinking, while the elegant, spicy finish whets the appetite for more. Not an opulent statement, but a stylish Merlot with balance, flow and character. Authentic, charming and typically Cotarella. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wineries that you don't find through advertising, but through word of mouth from people who know exactly what they are talking about. Sesta di Sopra is one of them. Ettore Spina was a banker in Turin for more than forty years before he bought an abandoned farmstead south of Montalcino in the 1980s and replanted it – not out of calculation, but out of conviction. Today, he and his family cultivate 2.5 hectares of Sangiovese at an altitude of 350 metres near Castelnuovo dell'Abate: calcareous marl, biodynamic cultivation, hand-picking and an annual production that fits into a single large barrel. Ian d'Agata has no hesitation in calling this vineyard one of the best Montalcinos in the world.

In 1872, Bettino Ricasoli wrote down his famous formula – the blueprint of what Chianti Classico should be: Sangiovese as the heart, structure as the backbone, terroir as the argument. The fact that his descendants have named this wine after him is not nostalgia. It is a commitment. Brolio Bettino is a single-varietal Sangiovese – and that is intentional. No blending, no corrective. The grapes grow on five geological formations: Sandstone, Galestro, Alberese, marine sediments and old river terraces – a terroir mosaic that combines depth and complexity in one glass. Fermentation in small stainless steel tanks, 18 months of ageing in large barrels: classic, without compromise. The 2022 vintage was capricious – mild winter, dry spring, a hailstorm in July, but it ended on a mild note.

Salcheto's garnet-red sparkling Vino Nobile delights us with a classic blend of dusty black cherries, cedar shavings, worn leather and sour citrus notes. On the palate, there is plenty of present fruit, a soft texture and a cool note, with savoury red fruits and cedar spice accompanied by lively acidity. Fine, sweet mellowness on the long finish. An authentic and pleasantly elegant organic wine from the heart of the Montepulciano region that is ready to drink when young. SUPERIORE.DE

44 hectares, six parcels and one goal: to express Sangiovese Grosso as precisely as possible in a Rosso di Montalcino. Altesino extends over the eastern hills of the municipality – altesino, Macina, Pianezzine, Castelnuovo dell'Abate, Cerbaia and the legendary Montosoli, the first cru in the history of Brunello. The Rosso di Montalcino comes from the younger vines of these parcels – the same grape variety, the same terroir, an earlier moment in the life of the vine. 100% Sangiovese Grosso, the Brunello clone that has been cultivated here for decades. Fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature, then 6 to 8 months maturation in large Slavonian oak barrels of various ages – no barrique, no wood pressure, but that gentle structure that carries the Sangiovese without masking it. Three months in the bottle before release.

A classic journey into the longing world of the South Tyrolean mountains: bright lemon yellow with golden yellow accents. Pinot Blanc Anna Turmhof, with flavours of pear, peach and floral notes, is an unusually soft and beautiful wine, rich and concentrated, with class and refinement. Its fresh acidity is a lively accompaniment to the very captivating and complex finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The Venosta Valley is the driest valley in the Alps – less than 500 millimetres of rainfall per year, intense sunshine, dramatic temperature fluctuations between day and night. Not an obvious place for great wine. And yet: Franz Pratzner has believed in it since 1989 – when he gradually transformed the family orchard above Hochnaturns Castle into a vineyard. Today, Falkenstein is considered one of the most independent addresses in South Tyrol. The Pinot Blanc grows on dry, primary porphyry soil on steep south-facing slopes between 550 and 900 metres above sea level – barren, mineral, uncompromising. Hand-picked in mid to late September. Then the house speciality: fermentation in large acacia wood barrels, ten months on the coarse lees. No steel neutrality, no barrique pressure – acacia gives the wine a fine, creamy texture without taking away its freshness. Then aged in the bottle for around twelve months.

The name already reveals the philosophy: DA-DI means "great earth" in Chinese – virginie Saverys' homage to the yin-yang principle that characterises her biodynamic work at Avignonesi. This experimental white wine from Cortona combines four indigenous grape varieties in just as many vinifications: Orpicchio matures in amphorae and used barriques, Vermentino exclusively in amphorae, Grechetto undergoes a six-day carbonic maceration, while Trebbiano macerates for 48 hours. After ageing on the fine lees, the components are assembled in the summer.

Forcole is produced in a surprisingly small quantity for a Chianti Classico - just 15,000 bottles. The bouquet begins with a slender texture and aromas of wild berries, sour cherries, pressed violets and sweet earth. Supple, generous and inviting on the palate, it captures all the natural intensity of the vintage. Its attractive silky tannins and the rather darker and crispy-cool Sangiovese flavour profile of the Panzano region make it a great soloist as well as food companion. SUPERIORE.DE

Every year, Istine's Chianti Classico is one of the most racy and authentic representatives of its genre. Its weightlessness and at the same time precision make up a large part of its appeal. A finely knit bouquet of red berries, flowers, chalk and white pepper. Medium-bodied on the palate, its fine fruit, creamy tannins and plenty of personality come to light with further aeration. A red wine that takes hearts by storm with its lively, dancing and extremely fine nerve! SUPERIORE.DE

From one of the region's most famous winegrowers, this sparkling wine from a single vineyard shows the serious side of Valdobbiadene. A single vineyard from the year 2000, located directly in front of the winery and therefore close to the village. San Floriano opens with delicate scents of white spring flowers and white stone fruit. The elegant, unobtrusive palate draws all the attention to itself and offers creamy white peach, ripe green apple and a hint of citrus - and all this together with an extremely refined perlage. Delicious! SUPERIORE.DE

Smooth Nebbiolo that shows the clear signature of Giovanni Rosso: This Langhe Nebbiolo presents itself in a bright garnet red with a ruby-coloured rim as an elegant companion with a presence of origin. The naturally cultivated vines are rooted in calcareous and clayey soils around Serralunga d'Alba. The bouquet reveals delicate notes of violets, red wild berries, white rose and a hint of dried herbs – wonderfully balanced between freshness and depth. The palate reveals a fine, supple body: lively acidity, gentle tannins and a fine mineral vein that accompanies the finish with clarity and elegance. A young Nebbiolo with youthful agility and plenty of charm – a lively picture of the terroir in youthful form. SUPERIORE.DE