James Suckling

The Gump Hof is situated at the foot of the Schlern, the iconic Dolomite massif to the east of Bolzano, which, with its flat summit, dominates the entire surrounding area. First mentioned in records in 1546 and owned by the Prackwieser family for over 200 years, Markus took over the estate from his father in 2000 – following wine study trips to the Wachau, Burgundy and the Loire Valley, which shaped his approach. The name Mediaevum says it all: the Middle Ages, from the Latin, and thus a commitment to a landscape and a history of viticulture that began long before modern South Tyrol. The vineyards are situated at altitudes of 400 to 500 metres, on calcareous moraines overlying compact quartz porphyry, with a slope gradient of 45 to 55 per cent. Gentle pressing, stainless steel, 8 months on the fine lees.

The name evokes the fields of ancient grains that once covered the hills of Spoltore before vines took root here. Since 2017, this Trebbiano has borne the name "Oro" on its label – a claim it certainly lives up to. To produce it, the Di Properzio brothers select just three hectares of old vines growing on compact limestone-loam soils near the coast. What sets Spelt Oro apart from conventional Trebbiano is the radical patience involved: After fermentation, the wine rests sur lie for four months in stainless-steel tanks, which are deliberately located outside the winery – exposed to natural temperature fluctuations. It then spends a further year in concrete. It is bottled after fifteen months, unfiltered, unclarified and without any stabilisation.

Zenato's world-famous Valpolicella Superiore, produced using the Ripasso method, is a rich wine offering excellent value. It is peppery, with earthy and stony notes that give way to black cherries and savoury herbs. It reveals deep, silky textures balanced by lively acidity, whilst ripe red and black fruits resonate beneath a hint of lavender. Zenato's Ripassa is concentrated and intense, yet conveys elegance and leaves a fresh note of violet sweets on the palate that lingers for a long time. SUPERIORE.DE

The name Da-Di is derived from the Chinese and means earth/soil. It not only emphasises the organic cultivation of the vines, but also the subsequent ageing in 13 Tuscan terracotta amphorae. The result is a fascinatingly fresh wine that is a joy to drink from the very first sip.

Medium golden yellow. A spicy, intense nose with aromas of roses, lychee and lily blossoms. On the palate, it is full-bodied and round with a rich, creamy texture. Spicy and mineral notes are complemented by fresh acidity, alongside hints of apricot and honeydew melon. Gewürztraminer Stoass finishes harmoniously with a delicately fruity and smooth finish. SUPERIORE.DE

"This wine was born as a challenge. In 2004, when we started making it, ageing it in steel was against the general trend of ageing complex Soave wines in barrique. Today, we are glad that we took this risk." Graziano Prà

A modern Maremma-Rosso with a maritime influence: "Tirrenico" combines Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot – all internationally influenced grape varieties that find their very own expression here on the Tuscan coast. Despite the warm vintage, the 2022 is balanced and clearly structured. Dark ruby in the glass with violet reflections. Ripe blackcurrant, plum, some graphite, herbal spice and a hint of eucalyptus on the nose. Juicy on the palate, with present, ripe fruit, fine-grained tannins and a fresh, mineral finish. The ageing in barriques adds depth without dominating. A powerful yet elegant red with a Tuscan soul and international stature. SUPERIORE.DE

Pliny the Elder wrote about it. Virgil, Martial and Horace raised it in verse. The Falernian was the wine of ancient Rome – produced in the Ager Falernum, that fertile triangle between Monte Massico, the river Savone and the slopes of the extinct Roccamonfina volcano. No other wine-growing region in Italy can look back on such a clearly documented wine-growing history. Lawyer Francesco Paolo Avallone – fascinated by the old texts – searched for the original grape varieties in the 1960s. He found them: a few Falanghina biotipo Falerna vines, survivors of the phylloxera devastation of the 19th century, direct descendants of the ancient cultivated vines. What he started, his children and grandchildren continue. The winery has carried the Ager Falernum in its name ever since.

In the western heart of Chianti Classico, between Florence and Siena, lie the four historic vineyards of Castello di Monsanto: Il Poggio, Scanni, Il Mulino and Il Salcio. On 72 hectares between 280 and 320 metres above sea level, surrounded by a Mediterranean biotope of cypresses, junipers, brooms and strawberry trees, predominantly Sangiovese vines thrive on the characteristic Galestro soils – the slate-like rock that gives the wines depth and powerful characteristics. The Bianchi family has consistently favoured the quality of Sangiovese for over 60 years and created the first Chianti Classico cru in 1962 with Il Poggio. The Annata is made from a selection of grapes from the younger vineyards, which are particularly suitable for ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels. 90% Sangiovese is complemented by 10% Canaiolo and Colorino – a classic blend that combines freshness and accessibility with the characteristic depth of the Monsanto terroir.

The great Bordeaux estates have shown the way: a so-called "second wine" is not simply a wine that didn't make the grade. It offers a different perspective. Younger vines, different plots, shorter ageing – resulting in a wine that is meant to be drunk sooner, has a fresher character and reveals a different facet of the same terroir. Tenuta San Leonardo introduced this concept to the Dolomites in 2005.

Here is one of the finest expressions of the white Carricante grape variety, aged on its fine lees for six months. Alta Mora Bianco comes from vineyards on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where Carricante vines thrive at altitudes of 600 to 900 metres – directly on volcanic rock rich in minerals and ash. The cool, high altitude, combined with intense sunshine and significant day-night temperature variations, imbues this wine with an unmistakable freshness, structure and a briny edge. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel to ensure that the purity of the grape variety and the terroir is conveyed unadulterated in the glass.

While the whole world was talking about the extinction of Trebbiano di Soave, the three Tessari sisters set out on a mission: to save an almost forgotten grape variety. In collaboration with Professor Attilio Scienza from the University of Milan, they selected the best clones of old Trebbiano vines and planted the Massifitti vineyard in 2006 – named after the "dense rocks", the large, compact basalt boulders that characterise the south-facing slope. Only two hectares at an altitude of 300 metres, where the volcanic minerality shows itself in its purest form. What is produced here is unique: probably the only single-varietal Trebbiano di Soave in the world. It matures for 15 months in stainless steel on the fine lees, then a further 12 months in the bottle before the sisters release it.

According to tradition, the River Dirillo, near the Dorilli estate, is said to be the legendary landing place of Aeneas on his odyssey from Troy. Whether this is true cannot be proven. What can be proven, however, is that this area, situated between the southern coast and the Iblean Mountains, has an extraordinary history of wine-growing. Dorilli is the quintessence of Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico – the highest tier of this unique Sicilian DOCG. Planeta produces it from carefully selected vines at the estate of the same name in Acate: 70% Nero d'Avola, 30% Frappato di Vittoria, grown on the characteristic loose red sand with a layer of tuff that defines the terroir of Vittoria from within. Organically farmed according to the SOStain protocol.

"Il Repertorio" - "The Register". The names of Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti's wines are reminiscent of his father's world as a notary.

Felsina's single-varietal Sangiovese wines have been produced on the south-eastern edge of the Chianti Classico region since 1967. The vineyards, facing south-west, stretch across well-ventilated slopes at altitudes of between 320 and 420 metres on geologically diverse soils comprising quartz-rich sandstone, calcareous Alberese and clay. Following hand-picking in the first three weeks of October, temperature-controlled fermentation takes place at 28–30°C with intensive maceration in stainless steel tanks for 12–15 days. Ageing lasts twelve months, predominantly in traditional medium-sized Slavonian oak barrels, supplemented by a small proportion of used barriques. 

In the sun-drenched hills of Castelnuovo Berardenga, where Fèlsina has been one of the undisputed stars of Chianti Classico since 1966, the Poggiali family is writing another story: that of a world-class Tuscan Chardonnay. I Sistri – named after the traditional rattling instruments of the ancient mystery cults – epitomises the experimental passion that led Fèlsina to plant French Chardonnay clones on the nearby Farnetella vineyard back in the early 1980s. Between the Ombrone river and the Poggiolo farm, various plots with different clones, rootstocks and soil formations produce the grapes that have formed the heart of I Sistri since 1987.

A Carignano that stays – in the glass, in the memory and in the terroir. Is Solinas is the creamy, smoky expression of one of the southernmost wines in Europe, precisely moulded from 100% Carignano del Sulcis. Smooth extraction, controlled fermentation and around one year of ageing in French barriques – this creates a dense texture without losing its freshness. Deep ruby colour with a violet sheen in the glass. The nose opens with intense, ripe aromas: blackcurrant, ripe plum and fine jam notes, accompanied by balsamic herbs, liquorice and a hint of aromatic spice. The wine remains warm and juicy on the palate, with velvety tannins and a harmonious flow. The fruit is dense, the acidity provides balance – and the mineral note carries the long, spicy finish into the memory. Is Solinas is powerful, but never loud. A Riserva with a strong character that carries time and the island within it – it has a large profile, an elegant demeanour and a sensual and clear expression. SUPERIORE.DE

2021 was a year with an ideal vegetation balance in Abruzzo: cool springs, a sunny but not overheated summer and healthy, late-picked grapes. This organic Riserva is traditionally vinified and matures for around 18 months in large wooden barrels and barriques. Deep ruby colour with a light purple hue in the glass. Juicy black cherry, blackcurrant, dried herbs, liquorice and a hint of dark chocolate on the nose. On the palate, it is denser and more structured than the previous vintage - with fine tannins, fresh acidity and a long, spicy finish. A Riserva with a clear line and great inner balance. SUPERIORE.DE

Margreid lies in the very south of South Tyrol – and is therefore, in terms of climate, a world away from the high Alpine regions near Nals. Warm summers, mild winters, and every afternoon the Ora: the warm southerly wind from Lake Garda that sweeps through the vineyards, aerating the vines and keeping the harvesthealthy. Chardonnay thrives on precisely this. The vineyards, situated on a gentle slope at altitudes between 220 and 350 metres and facing south-southeast, are planted on brooding, white limestone gravel soil with a high humus content – a terroir that fosters both richness and aromatic intensity. Cellar master Harald Schraffl favours a measured approach to vinification: fermentation in 30-hectolitre wooden barrels over three weeks, followed by eight months' ageing on the fine lees. The creaminess comes from the lees, not the wood.