James Suckling

What makes Alberto Passeri's Rosso di Montalcino so special? He is a stranger to compromise. The grapes come from the same plots as the great Brunello, from the historic vineyards of Canalicchio in the cooler north and the warmer slopes of Castelnuovo dell'Abate in the south. This dual origin is the secret: the elegance and finesse of the north merges with the strength and maturity of the south. Where other producers bottle their Rosso after just a few months, La Gerla allows it to mature for a full two years: six months in steel tanks, twelve months in large Slavonian barrels and a further six months in the bottle. This patience pays off.

Syrah and Petit Verdot form the basis for an exciting cuvée with which the Chia family once again demonstrates its great talent for Tuscan wines. Deep dark garnet red colour. An unexpected cornucopia of dark, smoky fruit on the nose, with spicy herbs, complex and deep. Impressive texture and elegance on the palate, with spicy notes of raspberry, a salty vein and invigorating acidity. SUPERIORE.DE

Deeply rooted in the Molise terroir since time immemorial, the Tintilia grape variety was long threatened with disappearance – until dedicated winegrowers revived it as an autochthonous treasure. This red wine in Riserva quality today represents the prestige of this once almost forgotten grape variety: 100% Tintilia, finely selected and with very low yields at high altitudes, where calcareous clay soils and fresh mountain air characterise its distinctive profile.

Three thousand years of winegrowing history are condensed into one street name: Strada Provinciale 68 near Vittoria, the route along which generations of Sicilian farmers carried their amphorae and later barrels to market. Arianna Occhipinti, a pioneer of Sicilian natural wine, has created a liquid monument to this country road. Albanello and Zibibbo, two indigenous islanders, grow here on red sand over limestone. The grapes ferment together with wild yeasts in concrete, and two weeks of maceration give the Bianco its characteristic texture. Bottled unfiltered, it retains its lively cloudiness.

High above the Tyrrhenian coast, where the dawn of the Mediterranean awakens and the scent of the Mediterranean scrub permeates the salty breeze, lies one of the most mysterious hills of the Alta Maremma: Poggio ai Ginepri – the hill of junipers. Here, where the red aeolian sands of Donoratico mingle with the ancient flysch sediments of the Lower Cretaceous period, one of Bolgheri's most legendary wines has been produced since 2002. It was the very first wine to see the light of day at Tenuta Argentiera – born from the vision of revealing the unspoilt beauty of this privileged terroir. A name that has since become one of the most recognised brands in the entire denomination. The juniper bushes that give this magical hill its name stand like silent sentinels between the rows of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (30%), Cabernet Franc (20%) and Petit Verdot (10%) vines. At an altitude of 80-100 metres, between the remains of prehistoric sediments and the sandy deposits of millennia of sea influence, these international varieties develop an authentic Tuscan character.

The Ricasoli family has been shaping the history of Chianti Classico since 1141 – longer than any other winery in Italy. Baron Bettino Ricasoli defined the legendary Chianti formula in 1872, which is still valid today. Rocca Guicciarda was once one of the Barone ' most important feudal estates and today embodies the classic interpretation of this traditional appellation. The grapes for this Riserva come from vineyards on the five most representative soil types in Brolio between 280 and 480 metres above sea level: Macigno del Chianti (sandstone), Scaglia Toscana (Galestro), Monte Morello (Alberese) as well as marine and fluvial deposits create a complex terroir mosaic. 90% Sangiovese forms the backbone, supplemented by 5% each of Merlot and Canaiolo. After controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks with 14 to 16 days of maceration, the wine matures for 21 months in tonneaux and large barrels. The result is a Chianti Classico of an intense ruby red colour with light garnet reflections, whose bouquet combines ripe red fruit, raspberry, pomegranate and fine spicy notes. The palate reveals the traditional character: juicy, red berry flavours with fresh acidity and silky tannins – a versatile food companion with balanced drinkability. SUPERIORE.DE

Giovanni Neri founded the winery in Montalcino in 1971. What he built and his sons continue to run is one of the most precise houses in the appellation – known for its Brunelli, but also for the high standards that run through all its wines, regardless of the denominazione on the label. The IrRosso is Casanova di Neri's most accessible wine – a Toscana IGT that applies the house's craft to younger vines. Sangiovese from the Fiesole vineyard, right next to the estate, complemented by a small proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot from the southern Montalcino parcels. Hand-picked, hand-selected and optically sorted, spontaneous fermentation in open conical steel tanks, 13 days of maceration with regular pumping over.

A photo from 1955 adorns the bottle: Elliott Erwitt's "California Kiss", two lovers in the mirror of a car. When Trudie Styler tasted the first sip of this Vermentino, she spontaneously found the name – "like a kiss on the lips". The fact that the wine was released in March 2021, when the world was hungry for closeness, lends it additional poetry. Incidentally, it is the first white wine that Riccardo Cotarella vinified for Il Palagio – a tribute to Trudie's love of elegant Bianchi. The hand-picked Vermentino grapes ferment at a controlled temperature in stainless steel, and a short maturation period preserves the vibrant freshness.

This red classic comes from marl- and clay-rich soils from the high and steep hills near Taurasi, not far from the Tyrrhenian Sea. The soils are rich in minerals and salts and give the Aglianico grape a wonderful depth and minerality.

The cork oaks still grow on the hills of Gavorrano today – silent, gnarled, enduring. They gave this wine its name. "Le Sughere": the cork oaks. A tribute to the landscape that supports and characterises this estate, long before a Renzo Piano wine cellar was dug into the rock here. The wine itself is the second label of Rocca di Frassinello – and what Oenologist Alessandro Cellai could call the heart of the estate: not the grand gesture, not the introduction, but the substance. Sangioveto, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot – the same triad as in the entire estate, the same philosophy of the link between Tuscany and Bordeaux. But this is where the wood comes in for the first time. Twelve months in partly new barriques, then nine months in the bottle: patience as a method.

A big step on the path to depth: Core Rosso is the red-black equivalent of the well-known white wine – a single-varietal Aglianico that uncompromisingly embodies the power and elegance of this indigenous grape variety. The grapes come from limestone-rich vineyards at the foot of Monte Soprano in Sannio locations, where cool nights and Mediterranean heat peaks allow for perfect ripening. Good balance, ripe fruit and fine acidity.

"This is the wine with which my experience as a winemaker was born. A wine from a single vineyard in which I frankly find all the characteristics of Bolgheri that I love: clear and juicy fruit, balance. The Merlot brings volume and softness, the Cabernet Sauvignon structure. I give a lot of space to the very Tuscan Sangiovese, which adds complexity and drinkability." Fabio Motta

Pinot Noir is a grape variety that seeks altitude. It finds it in South Tyrol – and Tiefenbrunner has selected the highest and coolest Pinot Noir sites in the entire portfolio for the Turmhof: Völser Aicha at 600 to 980 metres, on clayey sandy soil over grey porphyry, exposed to the south. Graun at 700 to 940 metres, calcareous-loamy dolomite soil. Penon, Hofstatt and Rain at 400 to 650 metres, calcareous dolomite soils. Mazon, Pinzon and Glen at 400 to 550 metres, sandy loam soil on dolomite rock. Four soil profiles, one wine. These altitudes require Pinot Noir to do what it does best: ripen slowly, build up structure, intensify flavours. Ageing in barriques and large wooden barrels gives the wine depth and elegance.

The fruity and characterful Angheli made from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon immediately impresses with its opulent colour. The complex, fruity bouquet has accentuated notes of sour cherries, blackberries and small forest fruits, with cocoa, liquorice and cardamom in the background. On the palate, the velvety fullness accompanied by a pleasant freshness and the persistent finish are delightful. SUPERIORE.DE

"Classico" is not just a marketing term in Valpolicella – it is a geographical designation. The Classico zone refers to the historic heart of the wine-growing region: those hills between Verona and Lake Garda, where Corvina Veronese has been at home for centuries and where the Allegrini family has been making wine since the 16th century. It was Giovanni Allegrini who, in the 1970s, initiated a leap in quality with the Guyot system and higher planting density, transforming the entire Valpolicella region. The Superiore differs from the standard Valpolicella due to a decision made in the cellar: whilst the Classico remains in steel, the Superiore spends six months in large oak barrels, followed by a further two months in concrete tanks – a sequence that harmonises structure, depth and fresh precision. Hand-harvested in the second half of September, 9 days’ maceration in steel.

A wine that made history. When the first vintage of La Selvanella Riserva was presented in 1969, it was a revolution in Chianti Classico – the very first cru from a single vineyard in the entire region. Today, over 50 years later, this Sangiovese classic is still regarded as a benchmark for the elegance and purity of the Radda terroirs. The 50 hectares of the La Selvanella vineyard sit at an altitude of 350 to 550 metres above Radda in Chianti in one of the most privileged positions in the entire region. Wines of exceptional structure and lively acidity are produced here. The perfect south-west exposure and the temperate continental climate create ideal conditions for the capricious Sangiovese to develop its full aromatic complexity.

In the gentle hills between Gran Sasso and Majella, where the silhouettes of Abruzzo stand out against the sky, a palazzo baronale has been enthroned since the 17th century, telling a very special love story. Castello di Semivicoli – once the summer residence of Sicilian nobles, later a military hospital, then a derelict ruin – was purchased by Gianni Masciarelli as a gift for his wife and, after years of restoration work, was transformed into one of the most beautiful wine resorts in Abruzzo. The Pecorino vines that now surround the historic building are rooted at an altitude of 380 metres in the calcareous soils of the Provincia Chieti, which have always been prized for their mineral complexity. Here, where the maritime influences of the Adriatic meet the continental mountain climate, white wines of characteristic freshness and distinct territoriality are produced.

In the southernmost tip of the Bolgheri appellation, where the vines almost touch the sea and rows of pine trees stand guard over the landscape, lies Tenuta Le Colonne – the winery with the vineyards closest to the sea in the entire denomination. Under the leadership of Alejandro Bulgheroni, organically certified wines of impressive clarity have been produced here since 2016. Originating from vineyards at an altitude of 50 metres with a south-westerly exposure, the vines are rooted in sandy alluvial soils with skeleton-rich inclusions. Spontaneous fermentation in truncated cone-shaped cement tanks with indigenous yeasts for 13 days, followed by twelve months of ageing in large, untoasted barrels, gives this wine its characteristic elegance.

In 1987, there were still 0.5 hectares of Timorasso in the whole of Piedmont. The grape variety, once widespread in the hills south-east of Turin, had almost disappeared due to phylloxera, structural change and lack of interest. Walter Massa rescued it – and brought it back into the dialogue. Giorgio Rivetti from La Spinetta, whose eye for exceptional terroirs has made his company great, recognised the potential and planted in Montemarzino, Montegioco and Monleale. Derthona – the ancient Roman name for Tortona, the capital of these hills – became the name of the wine. 100% Timorasso, south-west and south-east facing vineyards, organic cultivation. Destemming, gentle pressing, fermentation in temperature-controlled small stainless steel tanks. Then seven months on the fine lees – no malolactic fermentation, the acidity remains naturally lively. Four months in the bottle before release.

"Cladrecis" is an elegant interpretation of Chardonnay from the far north-east of Italy – full of character, harmonious and impressively balanced. The grapes come from a small parcel in the eponymous district of the municipality of Prepotto, whose chalky soils and cool microclimate offer ideal conditions for the finesse typical of the grape variety. Maturation in wooden barrels and on the fine lees gives the wine a subtle creaminess, fine roasted flavours and a hint of vanilla without masking the freshness.

In 1991, Luca and Valeria Orsini gave up their work in Milan to produce wine in Tuscany. Their winery comprises 10 hectares of south-east facing vineyards in Panzano and the wines have been certified organic since 2000. This outstanding Annata opens discreetly on the nose with subtle scents of cherry blossom, heather and roses. On the palate, it is decidedly red-fruited with redcurrants and raspberries, embraced by finely structured, powdery and persistent tannins. It has a lovely energy and above all lets the true charm of Sangiovese shine through. A real high-flyer in terms of authenticity every year! SUPERIORE.DE

Three letters, a whole story: BIP stands for "Benjamin Ingham Palermo". The Englishman came to Sicily in 1806 – not as a tourist, but as an entrepreneur with vision. He followed in the footsteps of John Woodhouse, but surpassed him by far: Ingham built up a trading empire that shipped Marsala all over the world and left a lasting mark on the city. Pellegrino still preserves his archive today – 110 volumes of Sicilian economic history. Pellegrino dedicates its elegant Oro Riserva to this man. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, from sandy coastal soils between Marsala and Petrosino. The fermentation is stopped with an acquavite aged in oak for at least five years – a detail that stacks depth upon depth. Then: more than 48 months in large oak barrels, a further six months in barriques. The 2013 is a wine that has clearly benefited from time.

SP68 Rosso is perhaps Arianna Occhipinti's most direct expression of soil, grape variety and philosophy. Frappato and Nero d'Avola come from organically cultivated plots on calcareous and sandy soils at an altitude of 280 to 290 metres. Fermented with natural yeasts in concrete, matured for six months in cement tanks, bottled unfiltered – no intervention, no make-up, pure essence.