James Suckling

The Vernatsch from Manincor comes from the monopoly position "der Keil" on Lake Kaltern – one of the warmest vineyards in South Tyrol. At an altitude of 250 metres, old vines are rooted in traditional pergola training on calcareous, sandy loam soils. The south-facing aspect with a direct view of the lake ensures optimum heat accumulation and perfect ripening conditions. After a wet spring in 2024 and a hot summer, the golden autumn brought physiologically ripe grapes with moderate alcohol and a cool character. The grapes were harvested by hand in mid-September at an ideal degree of ripeness and a yield of 60 hectolitres per hectare. The destemmed grapes ferment spontaneously with wild yeasts in open wooden vats. During the one-week mash fermentation at a moderate 24°C, the cap is gently punctured only once a day – minimal intervention for maximum fruit clarity. The wine then matures for five months on the fine lees in large wooden barrels, where the flavours are refined and the natural elegance of the Vernatsch comes to full fruition.

This rare Riserva comes from the Garofoli family's historic vineyards in Montecarotto – a selection of the purest Verdicchio grapes from the classic hills of the Castelli di Jesi. For five generations, the family has been cultivating the noble Verdicchio grape on these medium-textured loamy soils with sandy and calcareous inclusions. The lowest yields per hectare and the latest possible hand-harvesting guarantee the highest concentration for this top-quality wine.

With this exceptional Chianti Classico Riserva, the Mazzei family pays tribute to their famous ancestor, Ser Lapo, in whose writings the name "Chianti" is mentioned for the very first time. The upper part of the label features a faithful reproduction of one of his writings (dated 1398) in beautiful calligraphy. "Do not worry about the cost of this wine, even though it was expensive: its quality will more than make up for it."

In 1987, Castello Romitorio was not yet a winery. Just a castle, an artist and an idea. Sandro Chia bought grapes from his friend and cellar master Franco Martini and had the first wine vinified – even before a single vine of his own had ripened. That was the Romitorio: not a reaction, but an attitude. Today it grows at Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte in Scansano, 25 kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, at an altitude of 170 metres. The soils are of Pliocene origin – galestro, clay, Alberese, interspersed with fossils and shell remains, remnants of a primeval seabed. Petit Verdot and Syrah give the wine its profile: fermentation in steel, ageing in cement and oak.

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

There are wineries that you don't find through advertising, but through word of mouth from people who know exactly what they are talking about. Sesta di Sopra is one of them. Ettore Spina was a banker in Turin for more than forty years before he bought an abandoned farmstead south of Montalcino in the 1980s and replanted it – not out of calculation, but out of conviction. Today, he and his family cultivate 2.5 hectares of Sangiovese at an altitude of 350 metres near Castelnuovo dell'Abate: calcareous marl, biodynamic cultivation, hand-picking and an annual production that fits into a single large barrel. Ian d'Agata has no hesitation in calling this vineyard one of the best Montalcinos in the world.

In school philosophy, A quo denotes the starting point of an argument – the place from which everything else begins. Fabio Chiarelotto has dedicated a wine to this Latin thought. And what he meant was: Montepeloso begins here. The Swiss national with a Tuscan mother bought the estate in Suvereto, near Bolgheri – one of the hottest wine-growing regions in Tuscany. What others drown in heat, he wanted to translate into elegance. He replanted, pruned, worked biodynamically and bet that it was possible to make wines that glow instead of sweat on these limestone-rich, fossilised clay and silex soils. 2024 shows that he was right. The blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malvasia Nera and other varieties is fermented in steel, then matured for twelve months in used barriques – no wood to cover the fruit, just one that polishes delicately. Bottled unfiltered.

Sodale presents Merlot in its purest and, at the same time, most charming form: this single-varietal wine is grown on limestone-rich hillsides around Montefiascone – where the cool evening air enhances its sophistication and elegance. In the glass, it is a luminous ruby red with a slight violet rim. The bouquet entices with aromas of blackcurrant, ripe plum, dark cherry and a hint of floral violet notes, underpinned by delicate herbal undertones. On the palate, it is juicy and harmonious, with velvety tannins, sustained fruit sweetness and a lively texture. The subtle acidity lends freshness and makes it a pleasure to drink, whilst the elegant, spicy finish leaves you wanting more. Not an opulent statement, but a stylish Merlot with balance, drinkability and character. Authentic, charming and quintessentially Cotarella. SUPERIORE.DE

44 hectares, six parcels and one goal: to express Sangiovese Grosso as precisely as possible in a Rosso di Montalcino. Altesino extends over the eastern hills of the municipality – altesino, Macina, Pianezzine, Castelnuovo dell'Abate, Cerbaia and the legendary Montosoli, the first cru in the history of Brunello. The Rosso di Montalcino comes from the younger vines of these parcels – the same grape variety, the same terroir, an earlier moment in the life of the vine. 100% Sangiovese Grosso, the Brunello clone that has been cultivated here for decades. Fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature, then 6 to 8 months maturation in large Slavonian oak barrels of various ages – no barrique, no wood pressure, but that gentle structure that carries the Sangiovese without masking it. Three months in the bottle before release.

In 1872, Bettino Ricasoli wrote down his famous formula – the blueprint of what Chianti Classico should be: Sangiovese as the heart, structure as the backbone, terroir as the argument. The fact that his descendants have named this wine after him is not nostalgia. It is a commitment. Brolio Bettino is a single-varietal Sangiovese – and that is intentional. No blending, no corrective. The grapes grow on five geological formations: Sandstone, Galestro, Alberese, marine sediments and old river terraces – a terroir mosaic that combines depth and complexity in one glass. Fermentation in small stainless steel tanks, 18 months of ageing in large barrels: classic, without compromise. The 2022 vintage was capricious – mild winter, dry spring, a hailstorm in July, but it ended on a mild note.

F for Falò – bonfire. The name alludes to the traditional bonfires lit in Salento at the winter solstice. Cantine San Marzano has dedicated a single-varietal Negroamaro to this custom, which emphasises the dark, intense character of this indigenous grape variety. The grapes grow on the limestone-rich, iron-oxide-rich soils between San Marzano di San Giuseppe and Sava. Following hand-picking, the grapes undergo extended maceration, followed by twelve months' ageing in Caucasian oak barrels – an unusual choice of wood that lends the wine its own distinctive aromatic signature.

A classic escape into the idyllic world of the South Tyrolean mountains: a bright lemon-yellow colour with golden hues. Anna Turmhof Pinot Blanc, with aromas of pear, peach and floral notes, is an exceptionally smooth and beautiful wine, rich and concentrated, with class and sophistication. Its fresh acidity gives it a lively character right through to the very captivating and complex finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Saxum: the rock. A wine name derived from Latin that states quite simply what this Sauvignon grows on: Ice Age limestone soils, shaped and left behind by glaciers, with a minerality that gives the wine its unmistakable character. Not the volcanic depth of the Schlerngestein, but the bright, clear precision of Alpine limestone. Montan is best known as the home of Pinot Nero. The fact that Sauvignon Blanc of such high quality also thrives here is down to the very same conditions that lend the red wines their elegance: cool sites, good air circulation and well-structured soils. Pfitscher vinifies the Saxum in stainless steel at a controlled temperature of 18°C, with yeast ageing to develop texture and body.

In 1985, estate manager Giuseppe Bianchini inherited this estate in Castelnuovo dell'Abate from the childless Countess Elda Ciacci Piccolomini. His dream: to produce great Brunello. Today, his children Paolo and Lucia run the estate, which comprises 55 hectares of vines overlooking the Abbey of Sant'Antimo. Their Rosso di Montalcino comes from the 'Fonte' vineyard. 100% Sangiovese, aged in Slavonian oak. Bright ruby red in colour, with aromas of raspberry and wild strawberry on the nose; on the palate, it is medium-bodied with fine tannins and lively acidity. It embodies the estate's elegance without the need for ageing, and is a Rosso that allows one to experience Piccolomini's greatness even when young. SUPERIORE.DE

The Vinschgau is the driest valley in the Alps – less than 500 millimetres of rainfall per year, intense sunshine, dramatic temperature fluctuations between day and night. Not an obvious place for great wine. And yet: Franz Pratzner has believed in it since 1989 – when he gradually transformed the family fruit-growing business above Hochnaturn Castle into a vineyard. Today, Falkenstein is regarded as one of South Tyrol’s most distinctive estates. The Pinot Blanc grows on dry, ancient porphyry soil, on steep south-facing slopes between 550 and 900 metres – austere, mineral, uncompromising. Hand-harvested in mid- to late September. Then comes the estate’s hallmark: fermentation in large acacia wood casks, ten months on the coarse lees. No stainless steel neutrality, no barrique influence – acacia gives the wine a delicate, creamy texture without detracting from its freshness. This is followed by around twelve months’ bottle ageing.

Scalabrone is generous on the nose, yet incredibly fresh. It reveals ripe strawberries with a hint of sweet cream, tropical kiwi and lime. It washes over the palate with ease, carrying notes of ripe red fruits, a hint of melon and a zesty minerality. The finish is long, accompanied by lively acidity and salty minerality. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah is perfectly balanced, making this delicious Rosato one of the most vibrant in the appellation year after year. SUPERIORE.DE

Forcole is produced in a surprisingly small quantity for a Chianti Classico - just 15,000 bottles. The bouquet begins with a slender texture and aromas of wild berries, sour cherries, pressed violets and sweet earth. Supple, generous and inviting on the palate, it captures all the natural intensity of the vintage. Its attractive silky tannins and the rather darker and crispy-cool Sangiovese flavour profile of the Panzano region make it a great soloist as well as food companion. SUPERIORE.DE

The name already reveals the philosophy: DA-DI means "great earth" in Chinese – virginie Saverys' homage to the yin-yang principle that characterises her biodynamic work at Avignonesi. This experimental white wine from Cortona combines four indigenous grape varieties in just as many vinifications: Orpicchio matures in amphorae and used barriques, Vermentino exclusively in amphorae, Grechetto undergoes a six-day carbonic maceration, while Trebbiano macerates for 48 hours. After ageing on the fine lees, the components are assembled in the summer.

From one of the region's most famous winegrowers, this sparkling wine from a single vineyard shows the serious side of Valdobbiadene. A single vineyard from the year 2000, located directly in front of the winery and therefore close to the village. San Floriano opens with delicate scents of white spring flowers and white stone fruit. The elegant, unobtrusive palate draws all the attention to itself and offers creamy white peach, ripe green apple and a hint of citrus - and all this together with an extremely refined perlage. Delicious! SUPERIORE.DE

Smooth Nebbiolo that shows the clear signature of Giovanni Rosso: This Langhe Nebbiolo presents itself in a bright garnet red with a ruby-coloured rim as an elegant companion with a presence of origin. The naturally cultivated vines are rooted in calcareous and clayey soils around Serralunga d'Alba. The bouquet reveals delicate notes of violets, red wild berries, white rose and a hint of dried herbs – wonderfully balanced between freshness and depth. The palate reveals a fine, supple body: lively acidity, gentle tannins and a fine mineral vein that accompanies the finish with clarity and elegance. A young Nebbiolo with youthful agility and plenty of charm – a lively picture of the terroir in youthful form. SUPERIORE.DE