James Suckling

What makes Alberto Passeri's Rosso di Montalcino so special? He is a stranger to compromise. The grapes come from the same plots as the great Brunello, from the historic vineyards of Canalicchio in the cooler north and the warmer slopes of Castelnuovo dell'Abate in the south. This dual origin is the secret: the elegance and finesse of the north merges with the strength and maturity of the south. Where other producers bottle their Rosso after just a few months, La Gerla allows it to mature for a full two years: six months in steel tanks, twelve months in large Slavonian barrels and a further six months in the bottle. This patience pays off.

Where Pinot Blanc ends, Sauvignon begins. At altitudes of 450 to 550 metres, on the steepest slopes at the foot of the Schlern, it grows on espalier vines at a density of 7,500 vines per hectare, on the same limestone moraines over quartz porphyry, but a little higher up and noticeably cooler. This produces a different character: not the gentle delicacy of Pinot Blanc, but tension and density. A vibrant acidity that creates a pull on the palate. Gently pressed, fermented in stainless steel, aged on fine lees for 8 months. The result is a Sauvignon that demonstrates what altitude and porphyry can do for this grape variety.

Syrah and Petit Verdot form the basis for an exciting cuvée with which the Chia family once again demonstrates its great talent for Tuscan wines. Deep dark garnet red colour. An unexpected cornucopia of dark, smoky fruit on the nose, with spicy herbs, complex and deep. Impressive texture and elegance on the palate, with spicy notes of raspberry, a salty vein and invigorating acidity. SUPERIORE.DE

Punggl – is the name given to a small hill in the local dialect. 50 metres high, south of Margreid, at an altitude of between 220 and 250 metres: a geological feature in the flatlands of the Unterland. Composed of grey, loamy sand with a high clay content. A soil that stores heat, retains moisture and lends the Pinot Grigio a richness and structure that barren soils can never achieve. Margreid’s Mediterranean climate, the daily Ora breeze from Lake Garda – —this interplay provides ideal ripening conditions for the vines here, some of which are up to 80 years old. The vinification of Punggl differs significantly from simple grape processing: pressed immediately, the juice is clear and aromatic – followed by three weeks’ fermentation in 30-hectolitre wooden barrels. No steel, no concrete. The neutral wood gives the must a texture that steel cannot provide. Eight months’ ageing on fine lees in the same wooden barrels further deepens this structure.

Buchholz – as early as the Austrian land register of 1858, the name referred to the valley slopes above Salurn, where terraced vineyards lie on dolomite sedimentary rock at altitudes between 400 and 800 metres. Peter Zemmer, whose family has been making wine in Kurtinig on the Weinstraße since 1928, has chosen this diverse site for his Chardonnay: a mosaic of microclimates and soils that combines alpine freshness with southern ripeness. In the mornings, the breeze from the north cools the vines; in the afternoons, the ‘Ora’ from the south warms them: a daily cycle that gives the grapes time to develop. The winemaking process is deliberately restrained: a short cold maceration to preserve the fruit, followed by fermentation at 19°C in large wooden barrels.

Deeply rooted in the Molise terroir since time immemorial, the Tintilia grape variety was long threatened with disappearance – until dedicated winegrowers revived it as an autochthonous treasure. This red wine in Riserva quality today represents the prestige of this once almost forgotten grape variety: 100% Tintilia, finely selected and with very low yields at high altitudes, where calcareous clay soils and fresh mountain air characterise its distinctive profile.

62 years after the cooperative was founded in 1962 – this explains the name of this Riserva, which surpasses the Sessantanni in both ageing time and quality. The grapes come from the cooperative's oldest plots, bush vines trained in the Alberello style on the characteristic red clay soils of Salento. Hand-harvesting is followed by extended maceration to ensure maximum extraction. This is followed by 18 months' ageing in small oak barrels – six months longer than for the Sessantanni – followed by further bottle ageing before release.

Since 1141, the Ricasoli family has shaped the history of Chianti Classico – longer than any other winery in Italy. In 1872, Baron Bettino Ricasoli defined the legendary Chianti formula, which remains in force to this day. Rocca Guicciarda was once one of Barone most important feudal estates and today embodies the classic interpretation of this tradition-steeped appellation. The grapes for this Riserva come from vineyards situated on the five most representative soil types of Brolios, at altitudes ranging from 280 to 480 metres: Macigno del Chianti (sandstone), Scaglia Toscana (galestro), Monte Morello (alberese), as well as marine and fluvial deposits, create a complex mosaic of terroirs. 90% Sangiovese forms the backbone, complemented by 5% each of Merlot and Canaiolo. Following controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks with 14 to 16 days' contact with the skins, the wine matures for 21 months in tonneaux and large casks. The result is a Chianti Classico of an intense ruby red colour with subtle garnet hues, whose bouquet combines ripe red fruits, raspberry, pomegranate and delicate spicy notes. On the palate, it displays its traditional character: juicy, with notes of red berries, fresh acidity and silky tannins – a versatile wine to accompany food, offering well-balanced drinkability. SUPERIORE.DE

Giovanni Neri founded the winery in Montalcino in 1971. What he built and his sons continue to run is one of the most precise houses in the appellation – known for its Brunelli, but also for the high standards that run through all its wines, regardless of the denominazione on the label. The IrRosso is Casanova di Neri's most accessible wine – a Toscana IGT that applies the house's craft to younger vines. Sangiovese from the Fiesole vineyard, right next to the estate, complemented by a small proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot from the southern Montalcino parcels. Hand-picked, hand-selected and optically sorted, spontaneous fermentation in open conical steel tanks, 13 days of maceration with regular pumping over.

Cortona is only thirty kilometres from Montepulciano – and yet it is a different world. Here, on the high plateau with its dense Pliocene clays and iron oxide soils, around 300 metres above sea level, Merlot grows as if it had never been at home anywhere else. Federico Carletti recognised the potential early on – and In Violas was created in 2006. This was catalysed by his friendship with the Aliotti Tommasi family, owners of the same land. A Merlot that Carletti himself calls "con un'anima toscana". With a Tuscan soul. 100% Merlot, certified organic, 5,600 vines per hectare. Hand-picked, careful selection in the vineyard and in the cellar, fermentation and maceration in conical vats for 18 to 22 days, ageing in large oak barrels.

This classic red wine is grown on marl and clay-rich soils on the high, steep hills near Taurasi, not far from the Tyrrhenian Sea. The soils are rich in minerals and salts, lending the Aglianico grape a wonderful depth and minerality.

In Campo Rotaliano, this geological treasure trove nestled amongst the peaks of the Dolomites, Elisabetta Foradori has been rewriting the history of Teroldego for four decades. What began in 1960 as a family wine is now the epitome of indigenous excellence. The grapes come from twelve hand-selected plots spanning nine hectares, their roots reaching deep into alluvial sand and dolomite limestone. Fifteen different Teroldego biotypes, developed through years of mass selection, reflect the diversity of this unique terroir. Biodynamic Demeter cultivation, practised since 2002, allows the indigenous grape variety to unfold its original identity. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete tanks, partly using whole bunches, preserves the lively fruitiness. Twelve months' ageing in a combination of concrete and oak gives the wine structure without being overpowering.

Sessantanni – sixty years. The age of the gnarled bush vines that take root in the iron-rich terra rossa soils of San Marzano and Sava, trained using the traditional Alberello method. This training method, in which the vines grow low to the ground without wire trellises, is labour-intensive, but protects the grapes from the scorching Apulian sun and naturally limits yields – to around 3,000 kilograms per hectare. With the Sessantanni, Cantine San Marzano has created a label that has significantly shaped the international perception of Apulian wines. The fully ripe grapes are harvested by hand at the end of September. 80% of the must is macerated for 18 days, whilst the remaining 20% is macerated for 25 days to ensure maximum extraction. Vinification takes place using indigenous yeasts, followed by twelve months' ageing in French and American oak barrels.

The cork oaks still grow on the hills of Gavorrano today – silent, gnarled, enduring. They gave this wine its name. "Le Sughere": the cork oaks. A tribute to the landscape that supports and characterises this estate, long before a Renzo Piano wine cellar was dug into the rock here. The wine itself is the second label of Rocca di Frassinello – and what Oenologist Alessandro Cellai could call the heart of the estate: not the grand gesture, not the introduction, but the substance. Sangioveto, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot – the same triad as in the entire estate, the same philosophy of the link between Tuscany and Bordeaux. But this is where the wood comes in for the first time. Twelve months in partly new barriques, then nine months in the bottle: patience as a method.

A big step on the path to depth: Core Rosso is the red-black equivalent of the well-known white wine – a single-varietal Aglianico that uncompromisingly embodies the power and elegance of this indigenous grape variety. The grapes come from limestone-rich vineyards at the foot of Monte Soprano in Sannio locations, where cool nights and Mediterranean heat peaks allow for perfect ripening. Good balance, ripe fruit and fine acidity.

"This is the wine with which my experience as a winemaker was born. A wine from a single vineyard in which I frankly find all the characteristics of Bolgheri that I love: clear and juicy fruit, balance. The Merlot brings volume and softness, the Cabernet Sauvignon structure. I give a lot of space to the very Tuscan Sangiovese, which adds complexity and drinkability." Fabio Motta

Pinot Noir is a grape variety that seeks altitude. It finds it in South Tyrol – and Tiefenbrunner has selected the highest and coolest Pinot Noir sites in the entire portfolio for the Turmhof: Völser Aicha at 600 to 980 metres, on clayey sandy soil over grey porphyry, exposed to the south. Graun at 700 to 940 metres, calcareous-loamy dolomite soil. Penon, Hofstatt and Rain at 400 to 650 metres, calcareous dolomite soils. Mazon, Pinzon and Glen at 400 to 550 metres, sandy loam soil on dolomite rock. Four soil profiles, one wine. These altitudes require Pinot Noir to do what it does best: ripen slowly, build up structure, intensify flavours. Ageing in barriques and large wooden barrels gives the wine depth and elegance.

The Riserva embodies the roots of Fattoria Le Pupille – it is the very first wine the estate produced and marketed. Originally launched in 1978 as "Rosso di Pereta", it became, with the establishment of the Morellino di Scansano appellation regulations, the cornerstone of a terroir that Elisabetta Geppetti led to international recognition with passion and vision. As the first woman to head the Consorzio Morellino di Scansano, she shaped not only the appellation but the entire wine culture of the Maremma. Sangiovese (90%) blended with Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) from the La Carla, Maiano, Bozzino and Vecchie Pupille, at altitudes of 50 to 250 metres. The soils vary from clay-silt to sandy loam with a significant limestone-marl component. After 25 to 30 days of maceration at 26 degrees, the wine is aged for twelve months in Slavonian oak casks with a capacity of 20 to 40 hectolitres.

"Classico" is not just a marketing term in Valpolicella – it is a geographical designation. The Classico zone refers to the historic heart of the wine-growing region: those hills between Verona and Lake Garda, where Corvina Veronese has been at home for centuries and where the Allegrini family has been making wine since the 16th century. It was Giovanni Allegrini who, in the 1970s, initiated a leap in quality with the Guyot system and higher planting density, transforming the entire Valpolicella region. The Superiore differs from the standard Valpolicella due to a decision made in the cellar: whilst the Classico remains in steel, the Superiore spends six months in large oak barrels, followed by a further two months in concrete tanks – a sequence that harmonises structure, depth and fresh precision. Hand-harvested in the second half of September, 9 days’ maceration in steel.

A wine that made history. When the first vintage of La Selvanella Riserva was presented in 1969, it was a revolution in Chianti Classico – the very first cru from a single vineyard in the entire region. Today, over 50 years later, this Sangiovese classic is still regarded as a benchmark for the elegance and purity of the Radda terroirs. The 50 hectares of the La Selvanella vineyard sit at an altitude of 350 to 550 metres above Radda in Chianti in one of the most privileged positions in the entire region. Wines of exceptional structure and lively acidity are produced here. The perfect south-west exposure and the temperate continental climate create ideal conditions for the capricious Sangiovese to develop its full aromatic complexity.

In the gentle hills between Gran Sasso and Majella, where the silhouettes of Abruzzo stand out against the sky, a palazzo baronale has been enthroned since the 17th century, telling a very special love story. Castello di Semivicoli – once the summer residence of Sicilian nobles, later a military hospital, then a derelict ruin – was purchased by Gianni Masciarelli as a gift for his wife and, after years of restoration work, was transformed into one of the most beautiful wine resorts in Abruzzo. The Pecorino vines that now surround the historic building are rooted at an altitude of 380 metres in the calcareous soils of the Provincia Chieti, which have always been prized for their mineral complexity. Here, where the maritime influences of the Adriatic meet the continental mountain climate, white wines of characteristic freshness and distinct territoriality are produced.

In 1987, there were still 0.5 hectares of Timorasso in the whole of Piedmont. The grape variety, once widespread in the hills south-east of Turin, had almost disappeared due to phylloxera, structural change and lack of interest. Walter Massa rescued it – and brought it back into the dialogue. Giorgio Rivetti from La Spinetta, whose eye for exceptional terroirs has made his company great, recognised the potential and planted in Montemarzino, Montegioco and Monleale. Derthona – the ancient Roman name for Tortona, the capital of these hills – became the name of the wine. 100% Timorasso, south-west and south-east facing vineyards, organic cultivation. Destemming, gentle pressing, fermentation in temperature-controlled small stainless steel tanks. Then seven months on the fine lees – no malolactic fermentation, the acidity remains naturally lively. Four months in the bottle before release.

In 2008, the Mazzei family embarked on an agronomic and oenological research project designed to answer a single question: can Vermentino truly be a great wine in the Maremma? Not merely pleasant or agreeable – but great. Deep, complex and suitable for ageing. The answer came with the 2021 vintage. The former "Codice V" became "Belguardo V" – and with it, the very first Vermentino Superiore Maremma Toscana DOC ever to appear on the market. The "Superiore" stands for a conviction that took 13 years to realise, until the wine had earned that designation.