James Suckling

It was very courageous when Michele Satta vinified the first Vermentino in Bolgheri in 1984 – at a time when the appellation had only just been created and white wine still seemed unthinkable in an area dominated by red wine. Costa di Giulia, named after a vineyard at the foot of Castagneto Carducci, was created as a single-varietal treasure from Vermentino until Satta made a far-reaching decision in 1997: the addition of 40 per cent Sauvignon Blanc was to give the wine more character and a more extracted, sweeter, broader finesse.

Lagrein is one of the autochthonous grape varieties of South Tyrol and finds its ideal conditions at Franz Haas in sunny locations between 220 and 250 metres above sea level. Here, significantly lower than the white wine sites, the late-ripening variety benefits from warm, broodingalluvial soils with a high gravel content. The south-south-west exposure guarantees optimal sunlight until the late harvest – this is crucial for the full phenolic ripeness of this demanding grape variety. After careful manual harvesting, the grapes are carefully destemmed and fermented in open stainless steel tanks. The grape skins are gently and not too frequently submerged so as not to risk excessive tannin extraction. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine matures for 10 to 12 months in tonneau, where malolactic fermentation also takes place. A few months of bottle ageing round off the development before the Lagrein is released onto the market.

Delicate, elegant Nerello Mascalese with fine aromas of red fruits and raspberries, enveloped in a pleasant citrus freshness. As the wine progresses, it develops a smoky note associated with the strong lava rock component that characterises the volcanic soil of Etna. Lively, harmonious and full of flavour on the palate – a resolutely versatile wine that goes perfectly with a variety of fish dishes, shellfish and white meat. SUPERIORE.DE

Palazzotto is the name of the two hectares of vineyard where only Cabernet Sauvignon is grown. Fausto Maculan vinifies a fine wine from these grapes. A spicy start in the glass: cedar wood and ground ginger give way to dusty roses and redcurrants. It's elegant yet refined, with creamy textures lifted by vibrant acidity, while a wave of mineral-tinged wild berries lightly wash over the palate. Leaves a tart note of citrus and raspberry and subtle, grippy tannins that frame the wine without slowing its momentum. Although already showing very well now, this beautifully balanced version of Palazzotto should improve even more with medium-term cellaring. SUPERIORE.DE

This red classic from Montepulciano already bears its claim in its name: nobile. No other wine in Italy has this adjective written into its specifications – and hardly any other producer has honoured it as consistently in recent decades as Federico Carletti and his Poliziano winery. Founded in 1961 by father Dino, today under Federico's leadership and long since anchored in the next generation – with Francesco and Maria Stella, who have been helping to shape the future since 2019 and 2021. Poliziano has been certified organic since the 2021 harvest – not a marketing decision, but the logical conclusion of decades of work without chemical weedkillers and insecticides. Prugnolo Gentile, the local variety of Sangiovese, grows on clay and limestone soils between 300 and 450 metres above sea level. Hand-picked, careful selection in the vineyard and in the cellar, fermentation with indigenous yeasts in conical concrete vats – minimum intervention, maximum expression. Maturation in large barrels and tonneaux: the wood frames, it does not dominate.

Michele Satta's Bolgheri Rosso is far more than just his bestseller – it is the authentic calling card of a non-conformist who was one of the first in Bolgheri to have the courage to marry international grape varieties with Tuscan Sangiovese. Satta took this revolutionary step back in 1982, two years before the Bolgheri DOC was founded, creating an archetype of the modern Bolgheri style. The speciality of this wine lies in its unconventional blend: 30% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon form the backbone, complemented by 20% Merlot and 10% each of Syrah and Pinot Noir – here lies Satta's stroke of genius – teroldego. This rare grape variety from Trentino gives the blend a unique freshness and mineral tension that clearly sets it apart from other Bolgheri wines.

Tasting the Riserva from Fattoria del Cerro takes you stylistically to those higher vineyard sites where fossil-rich soils full of pebbles and ancient shell remains lend the Prugnolo Gentile a special mineral depth. The crowning glory of the Montepulciano hierarchy is created from these favoured plots – a wine that requires time and patience to reveal its multi-layered nature. After careful selection, the wine undergoes 18 months of refinement, combining tradition and innovation: Eight months in French barriques and tonneaux, followed by a further twelve to sixteen months in large wooden barrels. This combination creates a character of remarkable elegance and the wood integrates seamlessly without overshadowing the varietal fruit. A final twelve months of maturation in the bottle completes the harmonious development.

Le Redini Rosso consists mainly of Merlot and a small proportion of Alicante. The wine opens with dark intensity and a velvety texture with lots of fresh blackberry, plum, earth and wild rose. Pure red fruit on the palate, very supple, the delicate wood note well integrated. The refined notes of a Merlot from the Conca d'Oro come across wonderfully. SUPERIORE.DE

Multi-layered aroma, lots of dark cherry fruit, delicate herbal spice and cedar flavours. Juicy dark wild cherries on the palate, ripe, perfectly integrated tannins, elegant and delicate, fine mineral spice, surprisingly full-bodied and animating. A representative of the appellation that opens up beautifully and hits the right notes, like something out of a picture book! SUPERIORE.DE

Riserva does not simply mean more time in Gracciano. It means different soil. The Maramai and Podere Rovisci crus provide the grape material for this wine – and Rovisci is the core of the whole: heavy clay content, brooding, water-retaining, with a ripening dynamic that elicits the densest, most concentrated side of the Prugnolo Gentile. Vines, some of which have been planted since 1970. 300 to 350 metres, south to south-east exposure, 30 hectolitres per hectare – consistently limited yields. Only in the best vintages does the della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco family decide to bottle a Riserva. 2021 was such a year. Prugnolo Gentile 90%, Merlot 10%. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, 20 to 25 days of maceration in steel. Then aged for 24 months: the first twelve in French tonneaux of 3.5 and 5 hectolitres, the second twelve in large Slavonian oak barrels. Subsequent maturation in the bottle for at least six months.

"Place of the snakes". The name Serpara sounds menacing, but is actually a tribute: snakes seek warmth, sunshine and mild temperatures, even in the coldest months. And this is exactly what describes the single vineyard Serpara in the municipality of Maschito – a vineyard with a sunny exposure that never really knows winter, even in winter. At 550 metres above sea level, on a volcanic hillside, lie 6 hectares, half of which are planted with Aglianico vines over 40 years old. The black imperial eagle of the Swabians adorns the label – a legacy of the imperial claim that once shaped this land.

The vines of this single-vineyard Barbera are rooted at the highest point of the hill in the renowned Ravera and Pasinotti vineyards near Novello. Grown on soils rich in limestone and clay with a south-south-easterly exposure at an altitude of 300-400 metres, the wine reflects both elegance and a clear origin. The wine matures for around 12 months in large Slavonian wooden barrels, which give it depth without masking the freshness of the fruit.

Donnafugata's impressive declaration of love to Etna, currently the hottest wine hotspot, began with the Sul Vulcano line. Light ruby red in colour, with a bouquet of wild strawberry and delicate hints of black cherry, cinnamon and nutmeg. The corresponding, fresh flavour and subtle elegance lead to a harmonious and energetic finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Dievole's new Chianti Classico Casanova, just released with the debut 2020 vintage, is the result of a quest to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. The Casanova grapes come from a vineyard at an altitude of about 400 metres, with an ideal south-west to south-east exposure and composed mainly of sandstone rocks Macigno del Chianti. The result is a Chianti Classico that is very immediate and direct, with a beautiful acidity to boot. It has the elegance and freshness and the bright, radiant fruit of Chianti Classico "as it used to be".

An unusual liaison between two blues: "Blau & Blau" combines the autochthonous Blaufränkisch (Frankonia) with the international Pinot Noir. The grapes come from high-altitude plots in the cooler foothills of the Trevenezia, where both varieties enjoy fresh nights and long growing seasons. 2022 was a ripe, harmonious year with moderate weather conditions – ideal for balanced, elegant red wines. After manual harvesting, the wine matured in used barriques to develop structure and depth without overpowering the fruit.

An Etna Rosso with a clear vision: Ghiaia Nera is the introduction to the volcanic world of Tenuta Tascante – straightforward, elegant and characterised by the dramatic tension of the volcano. The grapes come from various locations on the north side of Mount Etna, around Randazzo and Castiglione di Sicilia. Volcanic sand, high altitude and large temperature differences characterise the style. It is traditionally matured in large wooden barrels. Brilliant ruby red colour with garnet hues in the glass. The nose opens with ripe cherry, dried raspberry, some orange zest and fine herbal notes. Juicy on the palate, with fresh acidity and a fine-grained tannin reminiscent of black tea. A wine with precision and cool noblesse, not a powerhouse, but a finely drawn red wine that clearly emphasises its origins. SUPERIORE.DE

Dievoles Chianti Classico Petrignano is the result of the endeavour to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. Petrignano is the name of a characteristic area with a soil rich in minerals and stones. At an altitude of around 330 metres, rocks protrude from the ground that are typical of the geological formation of Monte Morello. The abundance of stones, the depth of the roots and the low growth of the vines result in an expressive and lush wine from this characteristic and authentic cru site.

The Lageder family now only makes one Sauvignon Bianco, and it belongs to the "Compositions" line. It gets its complexity from the wide variety of different clones in the vineyards. The majority of these are situated at an altitude of over 400 metres and are based on limestone soil on the one hand and volcanic weathered rock on the other. The different source rocks and the variety of vines led the Lageders to name the wine. This is because it consists of fragments from the best organic and biodynamic vineyards, which are married to form a whole. Its salinity and crisp freshness are highly drinkable and make this fresh and sublime South Tyrolean Sauvignon Blanc a very special experience. SUPERIORE.DE