James Suckling

Dievoles Chianti Classico Catignano is the result of the endeavour to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. Catignano is a plateau at 370 metres above sea level, with vineyards of different ages and a large proportion of Alberese. The exposure is westerly and south-easterly, which means plenty of sun during the day, but also cold temperatures at night, with a good temperature range that favours the aromatic development of the grapes.

Bastonaca. This is not just any plot of land in Vittoria. This is the starting point. When Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Cirino Strano brought in their first harvest on 5 October 1980 and filled 1,470 bottles, they were standing right here. Bastonaca is the place of origin of COS – and the 25-year-old Nero d'Avola vines from this vineyard are the basis of Pithos Rosso. When Occhipinti visited Georgia in 1999 and learnt about the Qvevri tradition of terracotta vinification, the first amphorae arrived from Spain in 2000. The wooden barrel disappeared from the cellar. The amphora took over. 150 clay jugs, one of the largest collections of its kind. The Pithos Rosso is the red soul of this project: Nero d'Avola on Pliocene sandy soil, 230 metres, spontaneous fermentation on the skins with natural yeasts in the amphora, maturation in clay jars and in the bottle.

Strong, bright straw yellow colour. Characterful, youthful and rich bouquet of dried nectarines, peach, yellow apple, mint and a fresh hint of almonds. The depth of its texture is in perfect contrast to the savoury acids, minerals and notes of sour apples, but a feeling of balanced ripeness always remains. The finish is long and structured and seems to melt slowly on the palate, leaving savoury spices and a fine tannin behind. It already has a lot to offer today, but should mature a little more in the bottle for more structure and elegance. A wonderfully exciting interpretation of Garganega from a small single vineyard in the Carbonare region. SUPERIORE.DE

Brigaldara's Recioto presents itself beautifully with a warm aroma spectrum of preserved cherries, roses, herbs and traces of honey. It shows its true class on the palate: wonderfully balanced with its interplay of fruit and acidity and never dominant sweetness, it presents distinctive notes of small dark berries, creamy spicy flavours and dark chocolate right through to a never-ending, warming finish. A classic meditation wine! SUPERIORE.DE

Delicately shimmering ruby red colour. Ripe plums, red cherries, lemon peel, dried flowers and earth on the nose. Medium-bodied with fine tannins and bright acidity. Darker fruits, spices and minerals come into play on the flavourful finish. Very floral and pretty on the nose with sliced strawberries and citrus. Medium body, very fine tannins and a fresh, supple finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Ampeleias Alicante Nero epitomises their mission like no other wine. When Marco Tait and his team re-cultivated this almost forgotten autochthonous grape variety from the Alta Maremma in 2003, they set an example against the monoculture of international varieties. What was once suppressed to make room for fuller-bodied grape varieties is now proving to be one of the most authentic expressions of the Mediterranean terroir. The grapes come exclusively from the single vineyard "Vigna della Pieve" at an altitude of 250 metres, where sandy soils are interspersed with pebbles and conglomerates. This special soil composition gives the Alicante Nero its characteristic lightness and harmonious balance. As part of the "Monovarietali" project, this wine is vinified with the utmost care according to biodynamic principles.

Gewürztraminer is one of the aromatic icons of South Tyrol, and Franz Haas interprets this demanding grape variety with the precision of a perfectionist. The vines thrive on Guyot vines between 350 and 650 metres above sea level, where skeletal clay soils facing south-west create ideal conditions. These medium altitudes preserve the balance between aromatic opulence and fresh structure – this is crucial for a Gewürztraminer that does not suffocate in overripe heaviness. After a short maceration period, the must ferments at low, controlled temperatures in stainless steel. Six months of ageing on the fine lees follow, with the yeast being stirred weekly – an effort that gives the wine a creamy texture and additional complexity. This patient yeast work clearly distinguishes Franz Haas' interpretation from simpler Gewürztraminer wines, which are bottled after just a few months.

Brilliant ruby red colour. Lively nose of small, primary fruity red berries, subtle use of wood and impressive race and complexity for the price. Precise and taut on the palate, showing its origins boldly and decisively. Then a harmoniously balanced mix of tobacco, leather, cedar and, of course, cherry and plum. The finely balanced tannins carry this powerful and impressive Riserva into a long final. Impressive! SUPERIORE.DE

A Catarratto with character: Beleda comes from organically farmed vineyards near Alcamo, where cool nights and the proximity to the sea give the wine freshness and flavour. The wine is matured for around eight months in stainless steel tanks, with a few months resting on the fine lees – for structure, subtle fullness and elegance. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a silvery-green sheen. The nose opens with white flowers, citrus fruit, green apple and a fine salty note. On the palate, the vintage is lively, balanced and has a pleasantly juicy texture. The fruit remains subtle, the minerality dominates – a Sicilian white wine with a clear style and refreshing drinkability. Ideal with seafood, grilled vegetables or young/medium-aged sheep's milk cheeses. SUPERIORE.DE

Campinovi tells the story of the Tuscan terroir from an unusual perspective: pure Trebbiano Toscano, to which Dievole adds a surprising dimension through twelve months of ageing in large, unroasted oak barrels made from Italian rovere and chestnut wood. The grapes grow at an altitude of 300 metres in organically cultivated vineyards, where sandy loam soils with gravel provide a distinctive minerality. Spontaneous fermentation in cement vats at a controlled 18°C preserves the natural freshness, while the subsequent barrel ageing gives the wine its characteristic complexity.

San Giusto a Rentennano – the name is of Etruscan origin and carries the centuries within it. The medieval estate is located in the southernmost tip of the Chianti Classico, where the area meets the upper reaches of the Arbia and the hills become wider, quieter and rougher. A Cistercian monastery once stood here – san Giusto alle Monache. In 1204, the Florentines fortified the area as a border post to Siena. The underground vaults from that time are now the storage cellars of the Martini di Cigala. The family has owned the estate since 1914 and Luca, Francesco and Elisabetta now run it with the conviction that has defined the house since the early 1980s: Sangiovese needs no shortcuts. It needs low yields, ripe harvestand time. Organically farmed since 2006, green pruning in July and August by 30 to 50 per cent. 95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo harvested by hand.

Steep cliffs, gentle slopes of calcareous clay soil, the rough blue of the Adriatic Sea just above the vines ... welcome to the Conero, one of the most renowned terroirs in the Marche region! From the heart of this landscape comes Cùmaro, a passionately cultivated, richly structured Montepulciano that Umani Ronchi has been vinifying as a Riserva since the mid-1980s. In the glass, it presents a dark ruby colour with a purple hue. The bouquet is intense and multi-layered: ripe plum, blackcurrant and cassis intertwine with notes of black pepper, vanilla and fine tobacco – all in a powerful, spicy frame. The palate is characterised by dense concentration while remaining warm and enveloping. Smooth, integrated tannins carry the broodingfruit flavour, which glides into a long, elegant finish – with hints of chocolate and spicy dryness.

A Traminer with cool elegance and moderate flavour - far removed from the baroque and broad opulence of many representatives of this variety. The grapes come from selected vineyards in the Venezie region with calcareous, well-drained soils. The 2021 vintage brought balanced proportions between ripeness and acidity - good conditions for an aromatic white wine with finesse and potential. Ageing in stainless steel tanks preserves the clarity and expression of the grape variety.

One of the first Bordeaux blends in Italy and still one of the best. Conte Loredan Gasparini has been vinifying this classic from the Alta Marca Trevigiana, just 50 kilometres from Venice, since 1951. The Montello area, declared a UNESCO biosphere reserve in 2016, offers ideal conditions for Bordeaux grape varieties with its ferrous clay soils (Ferreto) and cool microclimate. The cuvée combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec – a quartet that has found its northern Italian interpretation here for decades. Eighteen months of ageing in Slavonian oak barrels lend depth without dominating.

"ColMatìss" is truly no ordinary Sauvignon: it comes from one of the most renowned single vineyards in Tunella in the municipality of Ipplis and owes its name to the barren, limestone-rich marl soil, known as "ponca" in Friuli. The yields are deliberately kept low, the harvest selectively and the wine is matured carefully. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with a greenish tinge. The bouquet is deep and complex, with fine notes of elderflower, salted lemon, ripe gooseberry, a hint of white pepper and wet stone – a Sauvignon with mineral depth and an expressive profile.

This single-varietal Carricante from Tenuta Tascante comes from the districts of Feudo in Castiglione di Sicilia and Salice in Milo. The vineyards grow at an altitude of 600 metres on the north side of Mount Etna on volcanic sedimentary soils from different eras. The majority of the grapes grow on a terrace in Contrada Sciaranuova. Vinified in cool stainless steel, this white wine retains the mineral clarity and sulphurous notes of the indigenous grape variety. Linear and vertical, it presents itself with the characteristic acidity of Carricante, showing volcanic vigour in elegant purity. An authentic Etna character with four months of ageing on the lees that brings the aura of the volcano directly into the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

Fórra, an elegant small-batch white wine, is made purely from Manzoni Bianco and has an interesting history and an exciting development. Lageder's project with this grape variety began several years ago and resulted in the crossing of Rhine Riesling and Pinot Bianco. Traditional methods were used in the cellar to ensure freshness and vibrancy. Contact with the skins over several days sharpens the profile of the wine. After spontaneous fermentation, Fórra remains on its lees in wooden barrels for several months. Fórra exudes all this passion and love, all this experience and craftsmanship - a wonderful, great pleasure. SUPERIORE.DE

2023 was a year of contrasts in Friuli: after a changeable spring, a warm summer with sporadic rainfall and a cool, dry September made for exceptionally well-balanced grapes. These conditions particularly favoured the late-ripening Ribolla Gialla – which is clearly noticeable in this cru. The wine comes from the historic Zuc di Volpe vineyard – a hill with old vines, clayey marl soils and a striking south-east exposure. Maturation in stainless steel with prolonged ageing on fine lees preserves the varietal typicity and at the same time gives the wine depth and suppleness.

How could it be otherwise: Tenuta Meraviglia's Bolgheri Rosso is vinified from 100% (!) Cabernet Franc. Bright, deep ruby red colour with violet reflections. Intense and pronounced aroma of blackcurrant, wild blackberry, cherry and raspberry, enriched by notes of tobacco, liquorice, undergrowth and roasted aromas. Warm and persistent on the palate, with a fine texture and sweet, spicy tannins. SUPERIORE.DE