James Suckling

It was a very bold move when Michele Satta produced the first Vermentino in Bolgheri in 1984 – at a time when the appellation had only just been established and white wine still seemed unthinkable in a region dominated by red wine. Costa di Giulia, named after a vineyard at the foot of Castagneto Carducci, began life as a single-varietal gem made from Vermentino, until Satta took a far-reaching decision in 1997: the addition of 40% Sauvignon Blanc was intended to give the wine more character and a sweeter, more complex finesse.

Lagrein is one of the autochthonous grape varieties of South Tyrol and finds its ideal conditions at Franz Haas in sunny locations between 220 and 250 metres above sea level. Here, significantly lower than the white wine sites, the late-ripening variety benefits from warm, broodingalluvial soils with a high gravel content. The south-south-west exposure guarantees optimal sunlight until the late harvest – this is crucial for the full phenolic ripeness of this demanding grape variety. After careful manual harvesting, the grapes are carefully destemmed and fermented in open stainless steel tanks. The grape skins are gently and not too frequently submerged so as not to risk excessive tannin extraction. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine matures for 10 to 12 months in tonneau, where malolactic fermentation also takes place. A few months of bottle ageing round off the development before the Lagrein is released onto the market.

Delicate, elegant Nerello Mascalese with fine aromas of red fruits and raspberries, enveloped in a pleasant citrus freshness. As the wine progresses, it develops a smoky note associated with the strong lava rock component that characterises the volcanic soil of Etna. Lively, harmonious and full of flavour on the palate – a resolutely versatile wine that goes perfectly with a variety of fish dishes, shellfish and white meat. SUPERIORE.DE

Riserva does not simply mean more time in Gracciano. It means different soil. The Maramai and Podere Rovisci crus provide the grape material for this wine – and Rovisci is the core of the whole: heavy clay content, brooding, water-retaining, with a ripening dynamic that elicits the densest, most concentrated side of the Prugnolo Gentile. Vines, some of which have been planted since 1970. 300 to 350 metres, south to south-east exposure, 30 hectolitres per hectare – consistently limited yields. Only in the best vintages does the della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco family decide to bottle a Riserva. 2021 was such a year. Prugnolo Gentile 90%, Merlot 10%. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, 20 to 25 days of maceration in steel. Then aged for 24 months: the first twelve in French tonneaux of 3.5 and 5 hectolitres, the second twelve in large Slavonian oak barrels. Subsequent maturation in the bottle for at least six months.

"Place of the snakes". The name Serpara sounds menacing, but is actually a tribute: snakes seek warmth, sunshine and mild temperatures, even in the coldest months. And this is exactly what describes the single vineyard Serpara in the municipality of Maschito – a vineyard with a sunny exposure that never really knows winter, even in winter. At 550 metres above sea level, on a volcanic hillside, lie 6 hectares, half of which are planted with Aglianico vines over 40 years old. The black imperial eagle of the Swabians adorns the label – a legacy of the imperial claim that once shaped this land.

Palazzotto is the name of the two hectares of vineyard where only Cabernet Sauvignon is grown. Fausto Maculan vinifies a fine wine from these grapes. A spicy start in the glass: cedar wood and ground ginger give way to dusty roses and redcurrants. It's elegant yet refined, with creamy textures lifted by vibrant acidity, while a wave of mineral-tinged wild berries lightly wash over the palate. Leaves a tart note of citrus and raspberry and subtle, grippy tannins that frame the wine without slowing its momentum. Although already showing very well now, this beautifully balanced version of Palazzotto should improve even more with medium-term cellaring. SUPERIORE.DE

Tasting the Riserva from Fattoria del Cerro takes you stylistically to those higher vineyard sites where fossil-rich soils full of pebbles and ancient shell remains lend the Prugnolo Gentile a special mineral depth. The crowning glory of the Montepulciano hierarchy is created from these favoured plots – a wine that requires time and patience to reveal its multi-layered nature. After careful selection, the wine undergoes 18 months of refinement, combining tradition and innovation: Eight months in French barriques and tonneaux, followed by a further twelve to sixteen months in large wooden barrels. This combination creates a character of remarkable elegance and the wood integrates seamlessly without overshadowing the varietal fruit. A final twelve months of maturation in the bottle completes the harmonious development.

This red classic from Montepulciano already bears its claim in its name: nobile. No other wine in Italy has this adjective written into its specifications – and hardly any other producer has honoured it as consistently in recent decades as Federico Carletti and his Poliziano winery. Founded in 1961 by father Dino, today under Federico's leadership and long since anchored in the next generation – with Francesco and Maria Stella, who have been helping to shape the future since 2019 and 2021. Poliziano has been certified organic since the 2021 harvest – not a marketing decision, but the logical conclusion of decades of work without chemical weedkillers and insecticides. Prugnolo Gentile, the local variety of Sangiovese, grows on clay and limestone soils between 300 and 450 metres above sea level. Hand-picked, careful selection in the vineyard and in the cellar, fermentation with indigenous yeasts in conical concrete vats – minimum intervention, maximum expression. Maturation in large barrels and tonneaux: the wood frames, it does not dominate.

Le Redini Rosso consists mainly of Merlot and a small proportion of Alicante. The wine opens with dark intensity and a velvety texture with lots of fresh blackberry, plum, earth and wild rose. Pure red fruit on the palate, very supple, the delicate wood note well integrated. The refined notes of a Merlot from the Conca d'Oro come across wonderfully. SUPERIORE.DE

Multi-layered aroma, lots of dark cherry fruit, delicate herbal spice and cedar flavours. Juicy dark wild cherries on the palate, ripe, perfectly integrated tannins, elegant and delicate, fine mineral spice, surprisingly full-bodied and animating. A representative of the appellation that opens up beautifully and hits the right notes, like something out of a picture book! SUPERIORE.DE

San Giusto a Rentennano – the name is of Etruscan origin and embodies centuries of history. This medieval estate lies in the southernmost corner of Chianti Classico, where the region meets the upper reaches of the Arbia and the hills become more remote, quieter and rougher. A Cistercian monastery – San Giusto alle Monache – once stood here. In 1204, the Florentines fortified the area as a border outpost against Siena. The underground vaults from that period now serve as the storage cellars for Martini di Cigala. The family has owned the estate since 1914. Luca, Francesco and Elisabetta now run it guided by the conviction that has defined the estate since the early 1980s: Sangiovese needs no shortcuts. It needs low yields, fully ripe harvestand time. Organically farmed since 2006, with green pruning in July and August reducing yields by 30 to 50 per cent. 95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, harvested by hand.

The vines of this single-vineyard Barbera are rooted at the highest point of the hill in the renowned Ravera and Pasinotti vineyards near Novello. Grown on soils rich in limestone and clay with a south-south-easterly exposure at an altitude of 300-400 metres, the wine reflects both elegance and a clear origin. The wine matures for around 12 months in large Slavonian wooden barrels, which give it depth without masking the freshness of the fruit.

Dievole's new Chianti Classico Casanova, just released with the debut 2020 vintage, is the result of a quest to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. The Casanova grapes come from a vineyard at an altitude of about 400 metres, with an ideal south-west to south-east exposure and composed mainly of sandstone rocks Macigno del Chianti. The result is a Chianti Classico that is very immediate and direct, with a beautiful acidity to boot. It has the elegance and freshness and the bright, radiant fruit of Chianti Classico "as it used to be".

An Etna Rosso with a clear vision: Ghiaia Nera is the introduction to the volcanic world of Tenuta Tascante – straightforward, elegant and characterised by the dramatic tension of the volcano. The grapes come from various locations on the north side of Mount Etna, around Randazzo and Castiglione di Sicilia. Volcanic sand, high altitude and large temperature differences characterise the style. It is traditionally matured in large wooden barrels. Brilliant ruby red colour with garnet hues in the glass. The nose opens with ripe cherry, dried raspberry, some orange zest and fine herbal notes. Juicy on the palate, with fresh acidity and a fine-grained tannin reminiscent of black tea. A wine with precision and cool noblesse, not a powerhouse, but a finely drawn red wine that clearly emphasises its origins. SUPERIORE.DE

An unusual liaison between two blues: "Blau & Blau" combines the autochthonous Blaufränkisch (Frankonia) with the international Pinot Noir. The grapes come from high-altitude plots in the cooler foothills of the Trevenezia, where both varieties enjoy fresh nights and long growing seasons. 2022 was a ripe, harmonious year with moderate weather conditions – ideal for balanced, elegant red wines. After manual harvesting, the wine matured in used barriques to develop structure and depth without overpowering the fruit.

700 to 800 metres above sea level, in the Piana degli Albanesi south of Palermo – where Sicily ceases to be what one might expect. Tenuta Ficuzza lies at the heart of a vast nature reserve, with woodlands, Mediterranean scrub and vineyards woven into the landscape like a mosaic. Here, Chardonnay has found a home that reminds it of Burgundy – without copying it. Jalé is produced from the historic single vineyard "del Ventaglio", named for its fan-shaped layout. The altitude creates temperature fluctuations that Chardonnay rarely experiences on this island: slow ripening, cool fruit, natural tension. Hand-harvested in early August, cold maceration, fermentation in oldLiters – no new wood to overpower the wine, but rather a subtle integration. Six months sur lies, then bottled.

The Lageder family now produces only one Sauvignon Bianco, and it forms part of the "Kompositionen" range. It derives its complexity from the wide variety of different clones in the vineyards. The majority of these are situated at altitudes of over 400 metres and are rooted in limestone on the one hand and weathered volcanic rock on the other. The different source rocks and the diversity of the vines inspired the Lageder family to choose the wine's name. This is because it is composed of fragments from the finest organic and biodynamic vineyards, which are blended together to form a single whole.

In 2009, the Belgian entrepreneur Virginie Saverys took over Tenuta Avignonesi – and transformed it into one of Tuscany’s most ambitious biodynamic estates. Biodyvin-certified, organic, vegan, B Corp: at Avignonesi, wine is understood as an expression of living soils – and Montepulciano as a place that reflects this with exceptional clarity. The Vino Nobile comes from vineyards on sedimentary soils of marine origin – calcareous, with varying proportions of clay and sand from the Pleistocene and Pliocene periods, planted between 1995 and 2017 at altitudes of 270 to 375 metres. Fermentation takes place using yeasts from the estate’s own ‘pied de cuve’: the first batch of grapes is harvested in advance to select the naturally occurring yeasts on the skins. A process that deepens the connection between the wine and the vineyard and anchors the sense of place. 20 to 25 days’ maceration, followed by 18 months in large casks and tonneaux.

Back to top. The name reveals the philosophy behind this Pinot Bianco, which emerges from the interplay between two fundamentally different worlds. On the one hand, the Bassa Atesina near Salorno and Magrè: calcareous soils, Mediterranean warmth, vines on both banks of the Adige. On the other, Dorf Tirol near Merano: volcanic rock, an alpine climate, a completely different energy. Alois Clemens Lageder, the sixth generation at Tòr Löwengang, calls such wines "compositions" – deliberate arrangements of contrasts that only reveal their full potential when brought together.