James Suckling

Three thousand years of wine-growing history are encapsulated in a single road name: the Strada Provinciale 68 near Vittoria, the route along which generations of Sicilian farmers carried their amphorae – and later their barrels – to market. Arianna Occhipinti, a pioneer of Sicilian natural wine, has created a liquid tribute to this country road. Albanello and Zibibbo, two indigenous Sicilian varieties, grow here on red sand over limestone. The grapes ferment together with wild yeasts in concrete vats; two weeks' maceration give the Bianco its characteristic texture. Bottled unfiltered, it retains its lively cloudiness.

Dievoles Chianti Classico Catignano is the result of the endeavour to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. Catignano is a plateau at 370 metres above sea level, with vineyards of different ages and a large proportion of Alberese. The exposure is westerly and south-easterly, which means plenty of sun during the day, but also cold temperatures at night, with a good temperature range that favours the aromatic development of the grapes.

SP68 Rosso is perhaps Arianna Occhipinti's most direct expression of terroir, grape variety and philosophy. The Frappato and Nero d'Avola grapes come from organically farmed plots on calcareous and sandy soils at an altitude of 280 to 290 metres. Fermented with natural yeasts in concrete, aged for six months in cement tanks, bottled unfiltered – no intervention, no embellishment, pure essence.

Bastonaca. This is not just any plot of land in Vittoria. This is the starting point. When Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Cirino Strano brought in their first harvest on 5 October 1980 and filled 1,470 bottles, they were standing right here. Bastonaca is the place of origin of COS – and the 25-year-old Nero d'Avola vines from this vineyard are the basis of Pithos Rosso. When Occhipinti visited Georgia in 1999 and learnt about the Qvevri tradition of terracotta vinification, the first amphorae arrived from Spain in 2000. The wooden barrel disappeared from the cellar. The amphora took over. 150 clay jugs, one of the largest collections of its kind. The Pithos Rosso is the red soul of this project: Nero d'Avola on Pliocene sandy soil, 230 metres, spontaneous fermentation on the skins with natural yeasts in the amphora, maturation in clay jars and in the bottle.

"When Baron Philippe de Rothschild plants Sangiovese, I will switch to Cabernet Sauvignon." John Dunkley, the British founder of Riecine, uttered these words at a time when Sangiovese was under pressure in Tuscany. It was a declaration of faith. And it remained the foundation of the estate through all changes of ownership – until July 2024, when Alessandro Campatelli, the cellar master and director since 2016, acquired the remaining shares and Riecine became entirely his own.

The Carbonare vineyard lies halfway up the slope, facing east, and feels different from Monte Foscarino. It’s not just my imagination – it has a different microclimate. Cool air flows down from the Val d’Alpone and its Piccole Dolomiti. Nearby streams reveal the underground water that flows deep beneath the vineyard. A precious resource for a great white wine. The basalt here is rich in colour: shifting from black to green, red and orange, depending on the degree of iron oxidation. When Inama first tasted the grapes, the character was immediately clear: lively citrus notes, vibrant acidity, mineral freshness. The Carbonare wine was born. 100% Garganega. Short maceration, fermentation and 12 months’ ageing in steel on the fine lees, followed by a further 6 months’ bottle ageing. No oak, no bâtonnage, no distraction from the terroir.

Campinovi offers an unusual perspective on the Tuscan terroir: a pure Trebbiano Toscano, to which Dievole lends a surprising dimension through twelve months' ageing in large, untoasted oak barrels made from Italian rovere and chestnut wood. The grapes are grown at an altitude of 300 metres in organically farmed vineyards, where sandy loam soils with a gravel component provide distinctive minerality. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete vats at a controlled temperature of 18°C preserves the wine's natural freshness, whilst the subsequent barrel ageing lends it its characteristic complexity.

For decades, the Porer vineyard on the Margreider alluvial fan has been regarded as the source of Lageder's most refined interpretation of Pinot Grigio. At altitudes of between 230 and 240 metres, where stony, sandy and highly calcareous soil, combined with dramatic day-night temperature fluctuations, creates a unique microclimate, grapes of exceptional complexity ripen. The organic cultivation of this single vineyard follows strict sustainability principles. The secret of the Porer lies in its three-stage vinification: one third is pressed immediately, another portion remains on the skins for 15 hours, whilst the final component is macerated with stems and skins for up to eight months. This orchestrated blend of different textures gives the wine its characteristic tension. Six months' ageing on the fine lees in stainless steel rounds off the complex aromatic profile.

In 2007, the Rosato was born – because Marco de Grazia's three-year-old daughter, Elena, insisted on it. There was a red wine, there was a white. Why not one in pink too? The winery was already painted pink. All that was missing was the wine. De Grazia, who had not planned to make a Rosato until then, set to work. The result is not a frivolous summer wine, even though it is often enjoyed in summer. De Grazia's stated ideal for his Rosato is: "il corpo di un bianco e l'anima di un rosso". And he adds: "joyful without being frivolous; tension without being austere." Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from vines aged between 25 and 60 years on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, at altitudes of between 600 and 900 metres, on volcanic soils from the estate's various vineyards.

Gewürztraminer is one of the aromatic icons of South Tyrol, and Franz Haas interprets this demanding grape variety with the precision of a perfectionist. The vines thrive on Guyot vines between 350 and 650 metres above sea level, where skeletal clay soils facing south-west create ideal conditions. These medium altitudes preserve the balance between aromatic opulence and fresh structure – this is crucial for a Gewürztraminer that does not suffocate in overripe heaviness. After a short maceration period, the must ferments at low, controlled temperatures in stainless steel. Six months of ageing on the fine lees follow, with the yeast being stirred weekly – an effort that gives the wine a creamy texture and additional complexity. This patient yeast work clearly distinguishes Franz Haas' interpretation from simpler Gewürztraminer wines, which are bottled after just a few months.

Ampeleias Alicante Nero epitomises their mission like no other wine. When Marco Tait and his team re-cultivated this almost forgotten autochthonous grape variety from the Alta Maremma in 2003, they set an example against the monoculture of international varieties. What was once suppressed to make room for fuller-bodied grape varieties is now proving to be one of the most authentic expressions of the Mediterranean terroir. The grapes come exclusively from the single vineyard "Vigna della Pieve" at an altitude of 250 metres, where sandy soils are interspersed with pebbles and conglomerates. This special soil composition gives the Alicante Nero its characteristic lightness and harmonious balance. As part of the "Monovarietali" project, this wine is vinified with the utmost care according to biodynamic principles.

A Catarratto with character: Beleda comes from organically farmed vineyards near Alcamo, where cool nights and the proximity to the sea give the wine freshness and flavour. The wine is matured for around eight months in stainless steel tanks, with a few months resting on the fine lees – for structure, subtle fullness and elegance. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a silvery-green sheen. The nose opens with white flowers, citrus fruit, green apple and a fine salty note. On the palate, the vintage is lively, balanced and has a pleasantly juicy texture. The fruit remains subtle, the minerality dominates – a Sicilian white wine with a clear style and refreshing drinkability. Ideal with seafood, grilled vegetables or young/medium-aged sheep's milk cheeses. SUPERIORE.DE

Michele Satta's Bolgheri Rosso is far more than just his bestseller – it is the authentic calling card of a non-conformist who was one of the first in Bolgheri to have the courage to blend international grape varieties with Tuscan Sangiovese. As early as 1982, two years before the Bolgheri DOC was established, Satta took this revolutionary step, thereby creating an archetype of the modern Bolgheri style. What makes this wine so special is its unconventional blend: 30% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon form the backbone, complemented by 20% Merlot and 10% each of Syrah and – here lies Satta's stroke of genius – Teroldego. This rare grape variety, native to Trentino, lends the blend a unique freshness and mineral tension that clearly sets it apart from other Bolgheri wines.

Steep cliffs, gentle slopes of calcareous clay soil, the rough blue of the Adriatic Sea just above the vines ... welcome to the Conero, one of the most renowned terroirs in the Marche region! From the heart of this landscape comes Cùmaro, a passionately cultivated, richly structured Montepulciano that Umani Ronchi has been vinifying as a Riserva since the mid-1980s. In the glass, it presents a dark ruby colour with a purple hue. The bouquet is intense and multi-layered: ripe plum, blackcurrant and cassis intertwine with notes of black pepper, vanilla and fine tobacco – all in a powerful, spicy frame. The palate is characterised by dense concentration while remaining warm and enveloping. Smooth, integrated tannins carry the broodingfruit flavour, which glides into a long, elegant finish – with hints of chocolate and spicy dryness.

A Traminer with cool elegance and moderate flavour - far removed from the baroque and broad opulence of many representatives of this variety. The grapes come from selected vineyards in the Venezie region with calcareous, well-drained soils. The 2021 vintage brought balanced proportions between ripeness and acidity - good conditions for an aromatic white wine with finesse and potential. Ageing in stainless steel tanks preserves the clarity and expression of the grape variety.

One of the first Bordeaux blends in Italy and still one of the best. Conte Loredan Gasparini has been vinifying this classic from the Alta Marca Trevigiana, just 50 kilometres from Venice, since 1951. The Montello area, declared a UNESCO biosphere reserve in 2016, offers ideal conditions for Bordeaux grape varieties with its ferrous clay soils (Ferreto) and cool microclimate. The cuvée combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec – a quartet that has found its northern Italian interpretation here for decades. Eighteen months of ageing in Slavonian oak barrels lend depth without dominating.

The name Gaun takes us back to the 17th century, when the noble family of the same name owned the Löwengang estate – a tribute to the historic roots of Lageder's ancestral home. Since 1934, when Alois III planted the first Chardonnay vines in Margreid, this wine has been regarded as a pioneer for international grape varieties in South Tyrol. The calcareous gravel soils around Margreid, Kurtatsch and Salurn, where Mediterranean influences meet Alpine coolness, produce grapes of exceptional minerality. During vinification, Lageder focuses on salinity and tension: part of the batch ferments spontaneously with whole bunches, allowing tannins from the skins and stems to accentuate the natural freshness.

A Tuscan rarity of a special kind: Felsina's experimental Spumante from the unusual cuvée of 60% Sangiovese, 20% Pinot Nero and 20% Chardonnay. The grapes come from vineyards at an altitude of 300 metres in Castelnuovo Berardenga, characterised by mineral-rich soils on the southern edge of the Chianti Classico zone. After careful manual harvesting, the grapes are gently pressed and fermented at a controlled temperature. The assemblage is bottled in spring with the addition of sugar and yeasts for the Presa di Spuma. After 20-22 months of bottle fermentation, dégorgement and dosage follow, followed by at least three more months of bottle ageing.

This single-varietal Carricante from Tenuta Tascante comes from the districts of Feudo in Castiglione di Sicilia and Salice in Milo. The vineyards grow at an altitude of 600 metres on the north side of Mount Etna on volcanic sedimentary soils from different eras. The majority of the grapes grow on a terrace in Contrada Sciaranuova. Vinified in cool stainless steel, this white wine retains the mineral clarity and sulphurous notes of the indigenous grape variety. Linear and vertical, it presents itself with the characteristic acidity of Carricante, showing volcanic vigour in elegant purity. An authentic Etna character with four months of ageing on the lees that brings the aura of the volcano directly into the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

Fórra, an elegant small-batch white wine, is made purely from Manzoni Bianco and has an interesting history and an exciting development. Lageder's project with this grape variety began several years ago and resulted in the crossing of Rhine Riesling and Pinot Bianco. Traditional methods were used in the cellar to ensure freshness and vibrancy. Contact with the skins over several days sharpens the profile of the wine. After spontaneous fermentation, Fórra remains on its lees in wooden barrels for several months. Fórra exudes all this passion and love, all this experience and craftsmanship - a wonderful, great pleasure. SUPERIORE.DE