James Suckling

A wine that bears its creator in its name: "Birba" – little cheeky bastard – is what they called Sergio Rossi, the visionary founder of La Gerla. What began as an experiment became a homage: a Brunello that follows all the rules except those of the wooden barrel. Instead of maturing in the large Slavonian vats like its noble siblings, the Birba spends up to fourteen months in French barriques from Allier and the Vosges, a third of which are new – a third of them new. The thirty-year-old vines on the slopes of Canalicchio, between 270 and 320 metres above sea level, produce tiny yields of just 50 quintals per hectare. Fifteen days of maceration extract substance and depth before the wood leaves its spicy signature.

Brolio Riserva is the flagship of Italy's most traditional winery – a wine that bears the signature of the Ricasoli family year after year and at the same time captures the extraordinary diversity of the Brolio terroir. The 100% Sangiovese grapes come from the five characteristic soil types of the estate between 280 and 480 metres above sea level – a terroir mosaic of sandstone, Galestro, Alberese, marine and fluvial deposits that lend the wine exceptional complexity. After controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks with 12 to 16 days of maceration, the wine matures for 18 months in first and second passage tonneaux before resting for a further three months in the bottle. Intense ruby red in colour with garnet reflections, the bouquet combines ripe black cherry, spicy notes and an elegant hint of vanilla. A generous fullness unfolds on the palate, supported by silky tannins and lively freshness – a harmonious, multi-layered Chianti Classico that perfectly balances tradition and international elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

What distinguishes a Riserva from an Annata? Time. Time to select the best Sangiovese grapes from the estate's twelve plots. Time for a 25-day vinification process that is conducted with the utmost respect for tradition. And time for at least 21 months in French oak barrels, followed by further bottle ageing before the wine leaves the estate.

In 1962, Egidio Corradi bought two neglected poderi in Cervognano – a Genovese broker who had spent most of his life away from Tuscany, but had always known where he wanted to return. Boscarelli's first bottle of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano appeared in 1968. Since then, this main line has hardly changed in terms of composition and ageing. This is not hesitation – it is conviction. Prugnolo Gentile and Canaiolo, from vines over 10 years old on the red, sandy, mineral-rich soils of Cervognano, 280 to 350 metres, east-facing, 6,500 vines per hectare.

This visionary wine comes from the legendary Conca d'Oro in Panzano and epitomises Giampaolo Motta's radical break with the traditions of Chianti Classico. The Neapolitan, who lost his heart to the Tuscan soil, took the courageous step of declassifying in 2002 – out of a burning desire for absolute oenological freedom. The cuvée combines Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to create a Burgundian-Bordelaise dialogue that captures the mineral power of the Galestro and Alberese soils on a south-westerly slope. The wine is carefully vinified in French barriques for ten months "sur lie" with regular bâtonnage, giving the wine a wonderfully silky structure.

The eruption of 1614 is legendary in the history of Etna, as it lasted ten years, making it the longest recorded eruption of the active volcano to date. A very impressive and fitting name for Planeta's Etna series of equally impressive wines. It could hardly be more autochthonous: this excellent wine from the Nerello Mascalese grape comes from the hotspot on the east coast of Sicily, from the slopes of Mount Etna. Bright cherry red in colour, a fine aroma of raspberry and blood orange, gripping, taut acidity, silky tannins and a lively elegance with beautiful minerality. Great, long and unique! SUPERIORE.DE

A wine of origin and rarity value – ferentano is a pure white wine made from the old Roscetto vine, cultivated around Montefiascone on Lake Bolsena. The very thick berry skins store intense flavours, while the controlled ageing (including barrique) combines purity and depth. Medium straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. Exotic notes of banana, pineapple and ripe peach on the nose, combined with vegetal accents and a hint of vanilla. Rich and soft on the palate, with plenty of substance, balancing acidity and a long, red fruit finish – perfectly animating and without sweetness. An inimitable white wine with a surprising fullness and elegant structure – a Roscetto that is authentic through and through! SUPERIORE.DE

A Pinot Nero with fine understatement, elegant, juicy and surprisingly cool in appearance. The grapes come from vineyards in the Collio, where the combination of poor marl soils, Alpine influence and Adriatic mildness create ideal conditions for this sensitive grape variety. Medium ruby red in the glass with a brick-coloured rim. Redcurrant, sour cherry, cranberry and a hint of forest floor and white pepper on the nose. Smooth and clear on the palate, with a fine texture, well-integrated acidity and an elegant finish. Not a loud Pinot, but a playful, delicate character with style and lightness – a real angel in a glass. SUPERIORE.DE

The name means "motherland" – and the Tedeschi family has indeed found a special spot of land with the 84-hectare vineyard between Tregnago and Mezzane di Sotto, which they acquired in 2006. Extensive soil mapping identified real crus here, including the Impervio vineyard – named after its impassable steep slope at an altitude of 400 metres. White and yellow limestone marl of moraine origin characterise the terroir and give the wine its characteristic freshness. Corvina (40%), Corvinone (30%) and Rondinella (30%) are harvested overripe in mid to late October and fermented as whole bunches – a conscious decision for structure and depth of flavour. After 20 days of maceration, the wine matures for 18 months in Slavonian oak and a further six months in the bottle.

Brilliant ruby red with a light-coloured rim. Very precise bouquet of blackberry, raspberry and spices. The palate is light and lively, with an elegant and deep fruit component accompanied by a delicate bitter note and fine spice. A very elegant and juicy Pinot Nero with good Storage potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The ColBajé vineyard above Cividale produces wines with a clear structure and delicate tension – including this expressive Pinot Grigio. The vines grow on calcareous soils and benefit from strong temperature differences between day and night. Selective harvest and careful ageing in stainless steel preserve the freshness and depth of the fruit. Vinification was carried out using the traditional Ramato method, in which the must macerates on the skins for a short time – this gives the wine its characteristic, delicate copper colour.

Tenuta Campogiovanni is situated on the southern slope of Montalcino – —an aspect that gives the Sangiovese warmth, earlier ripening and a natural approachability that cooler sites do not offer. San Felice developed this site in the second half of the 1990s: six hectares of Sangiovese, planted specifically for the Rosso di Montalcino DOC, on medium-heavy silty-sandy soils over sandstone and calcareous marl, facing south to south-east at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres. 2024 began with a mild, dry winter and a spring with regular rainfall, which ensured good flowering. The very hot summer – — particularly August – slowed down ripening; the harvest did not begin until the second week of September. Autumn rain necessitated careful selection in the vineyard. The result: elegant aromas, well-integrated tannins, moderate alcohol and balanced acidity. A vintage characterised by freshness and early drinkability.

The name reveals the location, the location reveals the wine. Banditella – a vineyard on the southern slope of the Sant'Angelo hill, 250 to 300 metres above the Orcia Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004. Col d'Orcia planted Sangiovese clones here in 1998, which were selected over ten years of research in collaboration with the University of Florence – not just any clones, but those that most accurately express the terroir of Montalcino. Biodynamically farmed, limestone soils with little clay, full southern sun: the conditions could hardly be better. The 2022 vintage demanded decisiveness: temperature fluctuations and late summer rains called for an early, forward-looking harvest at the beginning of September. The grapes were placed in shallow, wide steel tanks – a design that favours gentle extraction – where they macerated at 25°C, accompanied by daily pumping over and délestage. Twelve months in Allier barriques and tonneaux followed before the wine was bottled.

In 1970, Siro Pacenti planted his first vines on the Pelagrilli slope north of Montalcino – on sandy-loamy soils, rich in minerals and favoured by the cooling westerly winds of the hills. Since 1988, his son Giancarlo has managed the estate with a precision that he learnt in Bordeaux and has applied to the Sangiovese Grosso of Montalcino ever since: harvest to the exact parcel, gentle extraction, ageing in small French barriques – not for flavour, but for purity. The Rosso comes from vines between 15 and 25 years old, twelve months in the barrel, unfiltered in the bottle – with the express recommendation to decant.

Verdeluce – green light – is the name of this wine that the Famiglia Cotarella dedicates to the hills around Orvieto, the area on the border between Lazio and Umbria that has always been synonymous with quality white wines. Riccardo and Renzo Cotarella, two of Italy's most influential Oenologist, founded Falesco in 1979 with the aim of revitalising forgotten grape varieties. Today, cousins Dominga, Marta and Enrica continue the legacy – with a modern style and an international outlook, without losing their roots in the territory.

Wonderful, deep aroma of dark wild cherries, crushed raspberries, pomegranate, roses and peppery herbs. Dense but not heavy on the palate, long and pure with multi-layered subtle fruit flavours. Salty minerals and violet blossom emerge on the finish, along with nuanced tannins that create a classically dry feel on the elegant finish. This wine is already an absolute pleasure to drink, and although it tastes great now, it will continue to refine in the bottle for several years. A sensual and enjoyable wine, 60 per cent Nero d'Avola from oak barrels and 40 per cent Frappato matured in a vitrified cement vat. SUPERIORE.DE

Bucine, Valdarno di Sopra – where the Arno meanders through gentle hills between Arezzo and Florence, Fattoria Petrolo lies between 250 and 500 metres above sea level. In 1988, Lucia Bazzocchi Sanjust wanted a wine that told the true identity of this terroir: the "Château" of Petrolo, a tribute to the centuries-old Tuscan tradition of combining French varieties with Sangiovese. As early as 1834, Giorgio Perrin, agronomist of Swiss origin and owner of Petrolo, reported in the "Giornale Agrario Toscano" that it was customary in Chianti to blend "uve francese" with Sangiovese, not to change the quality, but because the terroir won out over the grape varieties.

A Collio classic with a signature: Schiopetto's single-varietal Sauvignon Bianco comes from old vines around Capriva del Friuli - on marl and sandstone soils that are perfect for aromatic varieties. Hand-picking, a short maceration period and ageing in stainless steel tanks preserve freshness and precision. Pale yellow in colour with greenish reflections. The bouquet is intense but never loud: whitecurrant, salted lemon, elderflower, a hint of lemon balm and wet stone. Clear, straightforward and elegant on the palate, with lively acidity, salty minerality and a fine citrus flavour on the long finish. An exemplary Sauvignon from the Collio - full of tension, multi-layered and with noble restraint. A wine that emphasises its origins rather than superficial fruit. SUPERIORE.DE

Classic Etna Rosso from Nerello Mascalese with a small proportion of Nerello Cappuccio – grown at an altitude of over 700 metres in various contrade on the northern flank of the volcano, where ash, lava rock and the alpine microclimate form an unmistakable style. Medium ruby red in colour with a garnet-red rim. On the nose, fragrant sour cherry, redcurrant, humming berry, a metallic hint, floral notes and subtle spice. Precise on the palate, with cool fruit, lively acidity and fine-grained tannins. The ageing in used wooden barrels and cement tanks maintains the balance and expression of origin. An authentic, elegant Etna Rosso with good drinkability. SUPERIORE.DE

Pithos – the ancient Greek word for the terracotta vessels in which wine and oil were stored in antiquity. When Giusto Occhipinti travelled to Georgia in 1999 and discovered the local qvevri tradition, he ordered the first amphorae in 2000. COS thus became one of the first pioneers of amphora vinification in the whole of Italy. Grecanico – the grape variety of the Greeks, brought to Sicily more than 2,500 years ago – grows on red limestone gravel soils near Vittoria, at 250 metres, cultivated biodynamically. Spontaneous fermentation with the skins inLiters, six to seven months, natural yeasts, no added sulphur.

Anyone who underestimates Pinot Bianco simply hasn't drunk a good one. The variety loves windy locations, poor marl soils and cool nights – all characteristics that the Collio Goriziano offers in abundance. Schiopetto cultivates it on the Ponca slopes of Capriva, where small, compact grapes ripen with golden-coloured berries that need no support in the cellar. A special feature of the vinification process: the wine is fermented with Pied de Cuve – a proprietary yeast from our own vineyards. This keeps the fermentation authentic and the flavour close to the origin. Steel, eight months on the fine lees, no intervention.

Pergolaia consists mainly of Sangiovese with smaller proportions of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The wine opens with a medium-bodied attack and a bright bouquet characterised by notes of cherry, wild plum, ploughed earth and pressed blue flowers. This very Mediterranean-style red with a strong personality envelops the palate with a delicate, silky intensity. SUPERIORE.DE

Malvasia Istriana is not Malvasia. At least not what most people know by that name. While other varieties of this ancient Greek grape family are often lush and sweetly aromatic, the Istrian variety shows a completely different face: richer, more complex, more mineral and capable of true greatness in Collio Goriziano – and capable of its true greatness in the Collio Goriziano. Schiopetto has been vinifying it as a single variety since 1974: hand-picked at the beginning of September, fermented in steel at 16 degrees for ten to twelve days, matured on the fine lees for nine months. The result needs no explanation, just a large glass.