Wines from Tuscany | Montalcino

A wine that bears its creator in its name: "Birba" – little cheeky bastard – is what they called Sergio Rossi, the visionary founder of La Gerla. What began as an experiment became a homage: a Brunello that follows all the rules except those of the wooden barrel. Instead of maturing in the large Slavonian vats like its noble siblings, the Birba spends up to fourteen months in French barriques from Allier and the Vosges, a third of which are new – a third of them new. The thirty-year-old vines on the slopes of Canalicchio, between 270 and 320 metres above sea level, produce tiny yields of just 50 quintals per hectare. Fifteen days of maceration extract substance and depth before the wood leaves its spicy signature.

Tenuta Campogiovanni is situated on the southern slope of Montalcino – —an aspect that gives the Sangiovese warmth, earlier ripening and a natural approachability that cooler sites do not offer. San Felice developed this site in the second half of the 1990s: six hectares of Sangiovese, planted specifically for the Rosso di Montalcino DOC, on medium-heavy silty-sandy soils over sandstone and calcareous marl, facing south to south-east at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres. 2024 began with a mild, dry winter and a spring with regular rainfall, which ensured good flowering. The very hot summer – — particularly August – slowed down ripening; the harvest did not begin until the second week of September. Autumn rain necessitated careful selection in the vineyard. The result: elegant aromas, well-integrated tannins, moderate alcohol and balanced acidity. A vintage characterised by freshness and early drinkability.

The name reveals the location, the location reveals the wine. Banditella – a vineyard on the southern slope of the Sant'Angelo hill, 250 to 300 metres above the Orcia Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004. Col d'Orcia planted Sangiovese clones here in 1998, which were selected over ten years of research in collaboration with the University of Florence – not just any clones, but those that most accurately express the terroir of Montalcino. Biodynamically farmed, limestone soils with little clay, full southern sun: the conditions could hardly be better. The 2022 vintage demanded decisiveness: temperature fluctuations and late summer rains called for an early, forward-looking harvest at the beginning of September. The grapes were placed in shallow, wide steel tanks – a design that favours gentle extraction – where they macerated at 25°C, accompanied by daily pumping over and délestage. Twelve months in Allier barriques and tonneaux followed before the wine was bottled.

In 1970, Siro Pacenti planted his first vines on the Pelagrilli slope north of Montalcino – on sandy-loamy soils, rich in minerals and favoured by the cooling westerly winds of the hills. Since 1988, his son Giancarlo has managed the estate with a precision that he learnt in Bordeaux and has applied to the Sangiovese Grosso of Montalcino ever since: harvest to the exact parcel, gentle extraction, ageing in small French barriques – not for flavour, but for purity. The Rosso comes from vines between 15 and 25 years old, twelve months in the barrel, unfiltered in the bottle – with the express recommendation to decant.

The oldest documents in the family archive date back to the middle of the 16th century. In 1967, Lisini was one of the 24 founding members of the Brunello Consortium. One of the oldest and most enduring houses in the appellation – and one of the most stylistically independent, because Sant'Angelo in Colle has its own character. The vineyards are located in southern Montalcino, between the fractions of Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate, at an altitude of 300 to 350 metres, on tuff-rich soil of Eocene origin. The warm Maremma winds that blow up from the coast every day characterise the microclimate: ripe fruit, Mediterranean warmth and a freshness that other locations do not offer.

At Podere le Ripi, the grapes for the Rosso di Montalcino are given more time in the cellar than elsewhere, making the wine more similar to a Brunello than a Rosso. Deep ruby red in colour with orange reflections. A captivating symphony of aromas on the nose, ranging from cherry, strawberry and violet to fresh balsamic herbs. On the palate, an impressive, broad structure, beautifully interwoven primary and secondary flavours, a fine minerality and a remarkably long finish. The longer ageing period really pays off! SUPERIORE.DE

Le Potazzine: this is the name given in Montalcino dialect to the little tits that flutter through the vineyards. It was the pet name given by a grandmother to her lively granddaughters: Viola and Sofia. Today, together with their mother Gigliola Giannetti, the two run one of the most purist wineries in the appellation. The vines grow at an altitude of 450 to 530 metres – sites that were once considered too cool and are now considered a blessing. This Sangiovese is the youthful entry: pure stainless steel ageing, twelve months, no oak, just the grape.

Very rarely do even the traditionalists relax their strict rules. Fuligni, synonymous with classic Brunello di Montalcino for over a century, has taken a step with this rosato that surprises and enchants – and enchants. Only around a thousand bottles of this Sangiovese rosé are produced, which grows on the north-eastern slopes of Montalcino, where the family has cultivated its vineyards since the beginning of the 20th century. Maria Flora Fuligni, who has managed the estate with philosophical calm since 1971, was guided by the joy of experimentation. The vinification follows the classic Rosato method: short maceration, gentle pressing, temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel.

Uccelliera's Rosso di Montalcino slowly comes to life with a beguiling blend of mentholated herbs, pine shavings and dried strawberries. It glides over the palate with a texture of pure silk, caressing everything it touches with ripe red fruits and rosy flowers accompanied by a lively acidity. Structured, powerful and long on the final – as always, it far exceeds its weight class and is a top-class Rosso di Montalcino. SUPERIORE.DE

San Filippo is located in the east of Montalcino – the part of the region known for its particular elegance and longevity. Roberto Giannelli, who acquired the winery in 2003 and has consistently favoured organic cultivation and minimal wood intervention ever since, has developed a style with Oenologist Paolo Caciorgna that shows Sangiovese Grosso in its purest form. Lo Scorno is the opening to the first movement – accessible, direct and full of character.

After the difficult 2023, 2024 presented a different challenge: rainy spring, dry midsummer, then eight days of rain in September just before the harvest. Not a vintage for comfort. Siro Pacenti – with his clearly defined plots, old vines in the Pelagrilli clay loam and the determined craftsmanship of Giancarlo Pacenti – selected more than usual this year in order to preserve what is typical.

Six kilometres southwest of Montalcino, on calcareous clay soil at an altitude of around 130 metres, lies the Tenuta Pian delle Vigne – has been owned by the Marchesi Antinori since 1995 and has been their personal interpretation of one of Tuscany's biggest names ever since. The 2023 vintage came with a wet spring and a warm, dry summer – a season that demanded patience and rewarded fruit. Harvested from 11 September, by hand, healthy and aromatic. Pure Sangiovese, fermented in stainless steel, matured for twelve months in large wooden barrels: this is intentional, not a compromise. The wine should remain fresh, mineral and easy to drink. And it succeeds very well.

For Casanova di Neri, Rosso di Montalcino is not a by-product of Brunello – it is a task in its own right. The grapes come from specially designated vineyards around the Podere Fiesole to the east of Montalcino, on soils that receive the same care as the Brunello parcels. Manual harvesting, hand-picking, optical sorter – respect for the material begins in the vineyard. In 2023, Montalcino enjoyed a long, even summer after a mild winter with little rainfall. The bouquet is expressive and floral – small red fruits, tobacco, sweet spices. Spontaneous fermentation in conical steel tanks without added sugar, 18 days of maceration, then 12 months of maturation in wood. A Rosso that knows its place in the programme – and fills it with conviction.

Standing in the shadow of great Brunellos is not an easy fate. The San Jacopo knows this fate – and makes the best of it. Fuligni himself calls it a "variation on the theme of Sangiovese", and that is exactly what it is: an elegant deviation from the strict rules, an experiment with freedom. 85% Sangiovese, obtained from younger clones from the various vineyards, meets 15% Merlot from the Bandita estate, where the tuff and clay soils are favourable to the international grape variety. Paolo Vagaggini, Fuligni's Oenologist for decades, vinifies the grapes separately and then blends them into a harmonious whole. Maturation takes place for around seven months in French tonneaux, which give the wine structure without dominating it.

With the acquisition of Tenuta Le Macioche in 2017, the Cotarella family fulfilled a dream: a foothold in prestigious Montalcino. The Sangiovese vines thrive on just 3.5 hectares in the southern quadrant of Sant'Antimo, where Galestro, slate and clay form the subsoil at an altitude of 450 metres. The name of the estate is derived from the Corbezzolo bushes, whose roots are called "macioca" in the Tuscan dialect – a symbol of deep roots in the terroir. The Rosso di Montalcino is the more accessible brother of Brunello, ready to drink earlier: 100 per cent Sangiovese, fermented in stainless steel after selective hand-picking and then matured for twelve months in Liters tonneaux. The Mediterranean climate with continental influences and the strong thermal fluctuations between day and night give the wine its characteristic aromatic precision.

Giovanni Neri bought the Podere Casanova to the east of Montalcino in 1971 – as a grain merchant from Montevarchi, fascinated by the austerity of the Sangiovese grape, these hills and their unpredictability. What he could not have known was that his son Giacomo, his grandson Gianlorenzo and his family would turn these slopes into one of the most precise addresses in the entire appellation. The Rosso di Montalcino is their first set. 100% Sangiovese, Massale selection from their own stock – not a clone, but a genetic fingerprint of the estate. Spontaneous fermentation, 18 days on the skins, 12 months maturation in wood. 2024 was a fresh, structured vintage in Montalcino with good acidity and clear fruit – the Rosso carries it with ease.

Canalicchio di Sopras Rosso di Montalcino comes mainly from the vineyards of the Cru Canalicchio with soils that have a pronounced clay component and are very rich in intermediate elements such as magnesium, iron and manganese. Depending on the vintage and climate, a small proportion may also come from the Cru Montosoli, where the presence of marl ensures juiciness and minerality.

Rossofonte is no ordinary Rosso. It is a rigorous selection from a single vineyard, as close to Brunello as the appellation allows. Since the first vintage (2014), it has shown what Sangiovese can achieve in Castelnuovo dell'Abate if it is given time and attention. Hand-picked grapes, extended ageing in Slavonian oak barrels. Wild cherry, ripe berries, balsamic notes of tobacco, cedar wood, mint and lavender on the nose. On the palate, sweetness and acidity alternate in an elegant interplay, fine, powdery tannins carry the final with nuances of star anise and pink pepper. A convincing and deep Rosso with Brunello ambitions. SUPERIORE.DE

Long before Andrea Cortonesi bottled his first Brunello, his family cultivated the olive groves around Castelnuovo dell'Abate. The cultivation of olives is part of the very fabric of life here – rooted in the same soil from which his wines come. Classic Tuscan varieties: Frantoio brings structure and flavour, Moraiolo the dark fruit and depth, Leccino the smoothness on the finish. The grapes are harvested by hand in November when the fruit is still firmly attached to the branch – cold pressing immediately afterwards, without delay.