Wines from Tuscany | Montalcino

In 1987, Castello Romitorio was not yet a winery. Just a castle, an artist and an idea. Sandro Chia bought grapes from his friend and cellar master Franco Martini and had the first wine vinified – even before a single vine of his own had ripened. That was the Romitorio: not a reaction, but an attitude. Today it grows at Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte in Scansano, 25 kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, at an altitude of 170 metres. The soils are of Pliocene origin – galestro, clay, Alberese, interspersed with fossils and shell remains, remnants of a primeval seabed. Petit Verdot and Syrah give the wine its profile: fermentation in steel, ageing in cement and oak.

There are wineries that you don't find through advertising, but through word of mouth from people who know exactly what they are talking about. Sesta di Sopra is one of them. Ettore Spina was a banker in Turin for more than forty years before he bought an abandoned farmstead south of Montalcino in the 1980s and replanted it – not out of calculation, but out of conviction. Today, he and his family cultivate 2.5 hectares of Sangiovese at an altitude of 350 metres near Castelnuovo dell'Abate: calcareous marl, biodynamic cultivation, hand-picking and an annual production that fits into a single large barrel. Ian d'Agata has no hesitation in calling this vineyard one of the best Montalcinos in the world.

In 1985, estate manager Giuseppe Bianchini inherited this estate in Castelnuovo dell'Abate from the childless Countess Elda Ciacci Piccolomini. His dream: to make great Brunello. Today, his children Paolo and Lucia run the estate with 55 hectares of vines and a view of Sant'Antimo Abbey. Their Rosso di Montalcino comes from the "Fonte" vineyard. 100% Sangiovese, matured in Slavonian oak. Bright ruby red in colour, raspberry and wild strawberry on the nose, medium-bodied on the palate with fine tannins and lively acidity. The elegance of the house, without having to wait and a Rosso that makes Piccolomini's greatness tangible even when young. SUPERIORE.DE

What makes Alberto Passeri's Rosso di Montalcino so special? He is a stranger to compromise. The grapes come from the same plots as the great Brunello, from the historic vineyards of Canalicchio in the cooler north and the warmer slopes of Castelnuovo dell'Abate in the south. This dual origin is the secret: the elegance and finesse of the north merges with the strength and maturity of the south. Where other producers bottle their Rosso after just a few months, La Gerla allows it to mature for a full two years: six months in steel tanks, twelve months in large Slavonian barrels and a further six months in the bottle. This patience pays off.

Syrah and Petit Verdot form the basis for an exciting cuvée with which the Chia family once again demonstrates its great talent for Tuscan wines. Deep dark garnet red colour. An unexpected cornucopia of dark, smoky fruit on the nose, with spicy herbs, complex and deep. Impressive texture and elegance on the palate, with spicy notes of raspberry, a salty vein and invigorating acidity. SUPERIORE.DE

Watch out, or even better - don't be afraid of the wolf: Attenti al Lupo is the exciting result of a new project by Podere le Ripi, which is specifically exploring new possibilities in the vineyard and cellar to find solutions to climate change, which is now putting all farmers and winegrowers to the test.

In Tuscany, olive oil was never a by-product. Together with grain and wine, it was the third pillar of the rural economy – and Lisini has never abandoned this principle. The estate's 28 hectares of olive groves follow the traditional "impianto promiscuo": olive trees not in specialised monocultures, but in alternating rows between vineyards and fields – a cultivation method that reflects the balance of the entire farm and preserves the Tuscan cultural landscape as it has grown for centuries. Around 8,000 trees, some of which are in inaccessible terrain, which is used exclusively to preserve the soil. Moraiolo, Leccino and Correggiolo – harvested entirely by hand, cold-pressed.

Giovanni Neri founded the winery in Montalcino in 1971. What he built and his sons continue to run is one of the most precise houses in the appellation – known for its Brunelli, but also for the high standards that run through all its wines, regardless of the denominazione on the label. The IrRosso is Casanova di Neri's most accessible wine – a Toscana IGT that applies the house's craft to younger vines. Sangiovese from the Fiesole vineyard, right next to the estate, complemented by a small proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot from the southern Montalcino parcels. Hand-picked, hand-selected and optically sorted, spontaneous fermentation in open conical steel tanks, 13 days of maceration with regular pumping over.

The 2024 vintage marks a turning point: Piancornello's Rosso bears the organic label for the first time. Not that much has changed in the vineyard – claudio Monaci and Silvia Batazzi have been farming organically for years, and now it's official. A silent confirmation of what has long been common practice here in the southern tip of Montalcino. The location near Sant'Angelo in Colle is one of the warmest in the appellation. The Orcia Valley channels the sea breeze from the Tyrrhenian Sea into the vineyards and enables an early harvest before the autumn rains. Twenty-eight days of maceration on the skins, spontaneous fermentation with the vineyard's own yeasts, followed by ten months of ageing – partly in tonneaux, partly in concrete.

L'America is the old name of a place where there was already a small vineyard and a shelter for animals in the 1950s. It was located on one of the outer borders of the winery, so the name L'America still embodies seclusion and great ambition at the same time. The plot is 300 metres above sea level, in terrain with rich and deep skeletal soils. Protected from winds, the scents of the woods are preserved here and the plants benefit from softened sunlight. This constellation gives the fresh and herb-accentuated Rosso a low pH value, a beautiful acid structure, a radiantly bright colour and a comparatively high tannin content. SUPERIORE.DE

When a woman who brought Valpolicella wines to the world as "Lady Amarone" acquires a vineyard in Montalcino in 2007, it is not to repeat the tried and tested, but to break new ground – but to break new ground. Marilisa Allegrini, the first Italian woman on the cover of Wine Spectator and named "Cavaliere del Lavoro" in 2020, now runs San Polo together with her daughters Carlotta and Caterina. The estate is located on the south-eastern flank of the hill, in Podernovi, at an altitude of around 450 metres – where the extinct volcano Monte Amiata protects the vineyards from hot winds and has left behind pyroclastic soils that give the Sangiovese an unmistakable mineral signature.

This delicately fruity olive oil is mainly made from the Correggiolo variety. The fruit from the olive groves of the Talenti estate in Montalcino is carefully picked by hand and the oil is extracted within 48 hours of harvesting in order to optimise the qualitative characteristics of the product in the bottle. The colour is a beautiful green with golden reflections, the taste is fruity and intense with spicy notes of artichokes, tomatoes and herbs. Slightly savoury on the palate with a wonderfully bitter finish. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine that bears its creator in its name: "Birba" – little cheeky bastard – is what they called Sergio Rossi, the visionary founder of La Gerla. What began as an experiment became a homage: a Brunello that follows all the rules except those of the wooden barrel. Instead of maturing in the large Slavonian vats like its noble siblings, the Birba spends up to fourteen months in French barriques from Allier and the Vosges, a third of which are new – a third of them new. The thirty-year-old vines on the slopes of Canalicchio, between 270 and 320 metres above sea level, produce tiny yields of just 50 quintals per hectare. Fifteen days of maceration extract substance and depth before the wood leaves its spicy signature.