Wine Spectator

In 1966, when the Italian wine industry was at a crossroads, Domenico Poggiali took a bold step and acquired the then-neglected estates of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Subsequently, and right up to the present day, this adventure has been turned into a legend by his son-in-law, Giuseppe Mazzocolin, a professor of humanities and friend of Luigi Veronelli. Together with the young OenologistFranco Bernabei, they created the first Berardenga in 1967 – a Sangiovese that embodies the true essence of south-eastern Chianti Classico. The vineyards stretch across the geologically diverse terraces at altitudes between 320 and 420 metres, where quartz-rich sandstone and calcareous Alberese in the higher elevations meet sandstone and loam as one descends towards the Crete Senesi. This "Terra di Confine" – the borderland between Chianti Classico and the Colli Senesi – shapes its unmistakable character.

A timeless symbol of the region and a tribute to the origins of Franciacorta: '61 Extra Brut is a classic blend comprising approximately 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Nero. It is aged on the fine lees for at least 24 months, which lends it a clear structure, elegance and harmonious fruit intensity. It thus embodies a modern, precise style that is, at the same time, deeply rooted in tradition.

Set amongst the hills of Bibbona, where the vineyards of the Alta Maremma overlook the Tyrrhenian Sea, this distinctive cuvée is the result of an ambitious project by the Antinori brothers. The name Insoglio is a poetic reference to the places where wild boars root around in the ground – a symbol of the wild, unspoilt nature of the Maremma landscape. Composed mainly of Syrah, complemented by Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine displays an intense purplish-red colour with violet highlights.

In Bolgheri, less than four kilometres from the Mediterranean Sea, lies that "El Dorado" of Italian winemaking which the legendary Oenologist André Tchelistcheff once visionarily recognised. Here, on the volcanic soils between an ancient cypress-lined avenue and the Tuscan coast, Le Volte emerges as the accessible calling card of a winery whose name is synonymous worldwide with uncompromising quality. The cuvée, comprising 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, is vinified separately by grape variety in small stainless-steel tanks to preserve each variety's individual characteristics. Following malolactic fermentation, the wine matures for ten months, partly in used Ornellaia barriques and partly in concrete tanks – a deliberate balance between structure and fruit expression.

In 1977 – two years after Sassicaia – Pier Mario Melini became only the second person ever to plant vines in Bolgheri. What seemed like obstinacy at the time is now known as Grattamacco. The estate is situated on one of the appellation's few hills, 100 to 200 metres above sea level, on quartz-rich sandstone, white clay and calcareous marl flysch – soils that counter the Mediterranean climate with a continental freshness. The Bolgheri Rosso 2024 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese and a hint of Petit Verdot – vinified in steel, then aged for six months in neutral barriques. The damp spring and hot summer of 2024 were broken by refreshing rainfall in early August: a classic, slow ripening process that endowed the wine with both freshness and structure.

This exceptional Cabernet is dedicated to one of the Mazzei family's most illustrious ancestors: Philip Mazzei (1730–1816), a visionary thinker, American patriot and wine-growing pioneer who, together with Thomas Jefferson, laid the foundations for wine-growing in Virginia. As a close friend of Jefferson's, Mazzei inspired the famous doctrine "All men are created equal" in the American Declaration of Independence. Philip embodies the quintessence of Tuscany from two renowned estates: Cabernet Sauvignon from Castello di Fonterutoli in Chianti Classico and from Tenuta Belguardo in the Maremma. This unique fusion of different terroirs creates aromatic complexity and depth – the limestone soils of Fonterutoli lend minerality and elegance, whilst the sandstone soils of the Maremma contribute structure and power.

When Luciano Sandrone bought his first vineyard in Cannubi Boschis in 1977 – financed with all his savings – and vinified the first bottle in his parents' garage a year later, nobody could have guessed that this humble beginning would grow into one of Barolo's most iconic wineries. After his death in 2024, daughter Barbara, brother Luca as Oenologist and wife Mariuccia continue the legacy today: 27 hectares between Langa and Roero, six wines of uncompromising quality that combine tradition and modernity in equal measure. The Barbera d'Alba, vinified from grapes from various plots in Monforte d'Alba and Novello, is more than just an accompanying wine – it is a statement that Sandrone devotes the same attention to each grape variety as he does to his legendary Barolo.

Le Macchiole is the home of single-varietal wines. Messorio, the pure Merlot. Paleo Rosso, the pure Cabernet Franc. Lo Scrio, the pure Syrah. Three radical choices, three wines that demonstrate what a single grape variety can achieve in Bolgheri. The Bolgheri Rosso takes the exact opposite approach – and is no less compelling. Since 2004, Cinzia Merli, widow of the founder Eugenio Campolmi, has been producing this wine from the estate's young vineyards: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah – all four together, in a blend that draws on the classic Bolgheri tradition of the "Bordolese taglio" whilst adding its own distinctive character. Hand-harvested, 15 days' maceration in stainless steel, followed by ten months' ageing in 70% used barriques and 30% cement tanks. The younger plots lend the wine that fresh, approachable energy which Le Macchiole describes as the estate's "calling card".

This exceptional Chianti Classico comes from the golden basin of the Conca d'Oro near Panzano and bears the pioneering achievements of the di Napoli family. As early as 1975, Alceo di Napoli was one of the first in the Chianti region to venture into planting Cabernet Sauvignon – a vision that was to revolutionise the traditional Sangiovese profile and is now part of Castello dei Rampolla's DNA. The grapes thrive on 42 hectares of limestone-rich soil at an altitude of around 360 metres, where Sangiovese (90%) blends with small proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to create a harmonious cuvée. The estate has consistently followed biodynamic principles since 1994 – long before they became a trend. The vineyards are home to a living ecosystem: flowers and herbs grow unhindered between the rows of vines, naturally oxygenated water nourishes the vines, and only copper, sulphur and bee propolis are used to protect the vines.

Lamole. Giovanni Manetti has long regarded this zone as one of the most distinctive in Chianti Classico. At an altitude of 620 metres, far from the heart of the region, a few plots of old Sangiovese vines survived the wave of deforestation in the 1970s. Giovanni took cuttings from these Alberello vines from the 1920s to grow his own vines in Panzano: the foundation for Fontodi's quality. This wine is made from seven hectares of Macigno sandstone, whose loose, permeable structure ensures elegance and finesse. Cool nights, long growing season, south-south-west exposure. The sandy soils give the Sangiovese a lightness that is clearly different from the powerful wines from Panzano. Vinification in concrete, certified organic.

What is in this glass does not come from separate, less highly regarded plots, but exclusively from grapes classified for the Brunello itself – Rosso di Montalcino is an earlier, more immediate expression of the same noble material, not a separate, lesser category. The same transparency and the same tension that characterise the estate's great wines are found here in a sleeker, more direct form.

A captivating Pinot Nero with a poetic expression of the Langhe terroir: strictly selected grapes from organically farmed vineyards are vinified with the utmost care. After manual harvesting and fermentation, the wine matures for 18 months in tonneaux, which give it structure without masking its freshness. The ageing process combines depth with elegant finesse – an art that Vajra has mastered for many years.

The first 1,850 Pinot Noir vines were brought to Italy from Burgundy by Count Vistarino back in 1865. Since then, the vinification of this demanding grape variety has been continuously refined over the generations. Today, the Pinot Noirs from the winegrowing dynasty can even outshine much more expensive Pinot Noirs from Burgundy at international tastings. Tavernetto is the estate's third cru, named after the 1.71-hectare vineyard where the grapes grow magnificently at an altitude of 250 metres to 325 metres and a south-southeast exposure. It is considered the most balanced of the Tenuta's vineyards, with the most evenly positive results. The calcareous subsoil of the single vineyard is ideal for Pinot Nero, resulting in a top wine of great personality.

When a winery uses the same label for its Riserva for over sixty years, it is not a lack of imagination – it is a stance. Castello di Monsanto's Riserva is considered one of Italy's oldest labels still in continuous production. The label was around even before Chianti Classico became an appellation. It has survived decades and changing fashions – and it encapsulates what Monsanto stands for: a deep-rooted commitment to Sangiovese. The estate is situated in San Donato in Poggio, the westernmost sub-region of Chianti Classico, at an altitude of 280 to 320 metres. Galestro – a slate-rich, barren and mineral-laden soil – is the ground in which the Sangiovese vines from four vineyards take root.

Canalicchio di Sopras Rosso di Montalcino comes mainly from the vineyards of the Cru Canalicchio with soils that have a pronounced clay component and are very rich in intermediate elements such as magnesium, iron and manganese. Depending on the vintage and climate, a small proportion may also come from the Cru Montosoli, where the presence of marl ensures juiciness and minerality.

This successful blend of Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc opens with dark concentration and great density. Fornace offers impressive juiciness and rich flavours of red cherries, blackberries, spices and grilled herbs. Its full body, restrained acidity and silky tannins are perfectly balanced, with balsamic hints accompanying this attractive Supertuscan into a supple and long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

This is where Ampeleia's true masterclass is revealed: the Cabernet Franc from the single vineyard "Vigna dell'Asina" is the centrepiece of the "Monovarietali" project and shows why this grape variety has become the flagship of the winery. What began as a vision in 2003 has developed into one of the most precise expressions of the Tuscan terroir. The vineyard lies at an altitude of 500 metres and combines ideal conditions: Clay-rich soils interspersed with characteristic Galestro limestone rocks and Palombini formations create a unique microclimate. Contrary to the expectation that clay soils produce heavy wines, wines of surprising elegance and purity are produced here – a phenomenon that can only be observed in Roccatederighi. Vinification follows Ampeleia's purist approach: 20% of the grapes undergo carbonic maceration as whole bunches, the rest are destemmed. After two weeks of maceration, the wine matures for nine months in cement tanks – for nine months in cement tanks without the use of wood in order to preserve the varietal characteristics unadulterated.

In 1090, while Leif Erikson was discovering America and the first universities in Europe were being established, two friends of Abbot Rolando paid "two capons, three loaves of bread and six silver denarii from Lucca" for the annual lease of a vineyard in the divine valley of Dievole. Nine hundred (Novecento) years later, in 1990, this wine was created as a reminiscence of the incredible journey through the centuries. The grapes thrive between 300 and 420 metres above sea level on stony soils of marl, limestone and galestro. The vines, which are on average 15 years old and cultivated organically as in the early days of this domain, undergo a 14-day spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in cement vats before maturing for 18 months in large, unroasted French Allier oak barrels.

It was Luigi Veronelli, the Italian wine revolutionary of the 1960s and 1970s, who convinced Francesco Giuntini that exceptional single-vineyard wines deserve a voice of their own. Of all the old poderi from the mezzadria era, Bucerchiale has always been the finest – a south-west-facing amphitheatre in the cooler heights of Rufina, where Tuscany meets the final foothills of the Apennines. In 1979, Francesco dared to break new ground. Whilst the law still mandated Trebbiano in every Chianti and the wine world prioritised quantity, he produced a defiant challenge made from 100% Sangiovese. A 100% Sangiovese from a single vineyard – a revolutionary act at the time, marking the beginning of the Tuscan Renaissance. In 2022, Vigneto Bucerchiale celebrates its 43rd year and embodies a vision brought to perfection. Spontaneous fermentation in steel tanks at 30–32°C, with 30 days' maceration, allows every nuance of the terroir to unfold before the wine is aged 50% in 25-hl French oak casks and 50% in barriques – only 15% of which are new.

The organically certified Sangiovese grapes for this Chianti Classico are grown in the legendary Conca d'Oro south of Panzano, that amphitheatrical Golden Valley with its unique microclimate of warm days and cool nights. Giovanni Manetti, president of the Consorzio Chianti Classico, vinifies exclusively hand-picked grapes in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts on the chalky Galestro soils of his 170-hectare Tenuta. After three weeks of maceration, the wine matures for 18 months in French oak barrels of various sizes.

Nearco was unbeatable. 14 starts, 14 wins – the Derby Italiano, the Grand Prix de Paris, and everything in between. The Piedmontese breeder Federico Tesio had bred him in 1935 and knew he had something extraordinary on his hands. As the war drew near, Tesio sold the horse to England for £60,000 – a sum that was a potential world record at the time. The British were so enthusiastic that they built Nearco a bomb-proof bunker. Today, he is the genetic progenitor of almost all modern thoroughbreds – from Northern Dancer to Secretariat, from Frankel to Sea the Stars.