Wine Spectator

This classic red from Montepulciano lives up to its name: "nobile". No other Italian wine has enshrined this adjective in its mission statement – and hardly any producer has lived up to it as consistently over recent decades as Federico Carletti with his Poliziano estate. Founded in 1961 by his father, Dino, the estate is now under Federico's leadership and has long been firmly established in the next generation – with Francesco and Maria Stella, who have been helping to shape its future since 2019 and 2021 respectively. Since the 2021 harvest, Poliziano has been certified organic – not a marketing decision, but the logical culmination of decades of work without chemical weedkillers or insecticides. Prugnolo Gentile, the local variety of Sangiovese, grows on clay and limestone soils at altitudes of between 300 and 450 metres. Hand-harvested, carefully selected both in the vineyard and in the cellar, fermented with indigenous yeasts in conical concrete tanks – minimal intervention, maximum expression. Matured in large barrels and tonneaux: the wood provides a frame, it does not dominate.

Dievole's new Chianti Classico Casanova, just released with the debut 2020 vintage, is the result of a quest to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. The Casanova grapes come from a vineyard at an altitude of about 400 metres, with an ideal south-west to south-east exposure and composed mainly of sandstone rocks Macigno del Chianti. The result is a Chianti Classico that is very immediate and direct, with a beautiful acidity to boot. It has the elegance and freshness and the bright, radiant fruit of Chianti Classico "as it used to be".

Dievoles Chianti Classico Petrignano is the result of a commitment to highlighting the distinctive characteristics of particularly well-suited vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of the Sangiovese grape. Petrignano is the name given to a distinctive area characterised by mineral- and stone-rich soil. At an altitude of approximately 330 metres, rocks protrude from the ground, typical of the geological formation of Monte Morello. The abundance of stones, the depth of the roots and the compact growth of the vines result in an expressive and opulent wine from this distinctive and authentic cru site.

Dievoles Chianti Classico Catignano is the result of the endeavour to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. Catignano is a plateau at 370 metres above sea level, with vineyards of different ages and a large proportion of Alberese. The exposure is westerly and south-easterly, which means plenty of sun during the day, but also cold temperatures at night, with a good temperature range that favours the aromatic development of the grapes.

Campinovi offers an unusual perspective on the Tuscan terroir: a pure Trebbiano Toscano, to which Dievole lends a surprising dimension through twelve months' ageing in large, untoasted oak barrels made from Italian rovere and chestnut wood. The grapes are grown at an altitude of 300 metres in organically farmed vineyards, where sandy loam soils with a gravel component provide distinctive minerality. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete vats at a controlled temperature of 18°C preserves the wine's natural freshness, whilst the subsequent barrel ageing lends it its characteristic complexity.

Ampeleias Alicante Nero epitomises their mission like no other wine. When Marco Tait and his team re-cultivated this almost forgotten autochthonous grape variety from the Alta Maremma in 2003, they set an example against the monoculture of international varieties. What was once suppressed to make room for fuller-bodied grape varieties is now proving to be one of the most authentic expressions of the Mediterranean terroir. The grapes come exclusively from the single vineyard "Vigna della Pieve" at an altitude of 250 metres, where sandy soils are interspersed with pebbles and conglomerates. This special soil composition gives the Alicante Nero its characteristic lightness and harmonious balance. As part of the "Monovarietali" project, this wine is vinified with the utmost care according to biodynamic principles.

A volcanic goddess is depicted on the label. Her delicate colours reflect the shades found around the smoking crater of Europe's highest active volcano – an ancient, mighty and feminine deity, just as the locals call Mount Etna: la Montagna. Sul Vulcano is Donnafugata's declaration of love for this mountain. The Rallo family, rooted in Marsala for generations, has made its mark on the northern slopes of Etna: 18 hectares of vineyards, spread across six contrade between Randazzo at 750 metres and Castiglione di Sicilia at 730 metres – Etna DOC, Sicily's very first Denomination of Controlled Origin. The soil is of volcanic origin, made fertile by the "sciare" – the ancient lava flows that, through long geochemical processes, produced sandy, cultivable soil. The vines are planted on dry-stone terraces, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, alternating between the "Controspalliera" training system and the traditional "Alberello" method.

Brolio Riserva is the flagship wine of Italy's most historic winery – a wine that, year after year, bears the hallmark of the Ricasoli family whilst capturing the extraordinary diversity of the Brolio terroir. The 100% Sangiovese grapes are sourced from the estate's five distinctive soil types, situated at altitudes of between 280 and 480 metres – a mosaic of terroir comprising sandstone, galestro, alberese, marine and fluvial deposits, which lends the wine exceptional complexity. Following controlled fermentation in stainless-steel tanks with 12 to 16 days' contact with the skins, the wine matures for 18 months in first- and second-use tonneaux before spending a further three months ageing in the bottle.

In 1962, Egidio Corradi bought two neglected poderi in Cervognano – a broker from Genoa who had spent most of his life far from Tuscany, but had always known where he wanted to return to. In 1968, the first bottle of Boscarelli's Vino Nobile di Montepulciano was released. Since then, the composition and vinification of this flagship wine have remained virtually unchanged. This is not hesitation – it is conviction. Prugnolo Gentile and Canaiolo, from vines aged 10 years and over, grown on the red, sandy, mineral-rich soils of Cervognano, at altitudes of 280 to 350 metres, facing east, with 6,500 vines per hectare.

"This wine comes from my family's historic vineyard. It is a wine that is the result of much thought, research and experimentation, in which nothing was left to chance: Monte Grande is intended to be my great Soave wine." Graziano Prà

Basarin and San Cristoforo – on calcareous marl soils with sandy veins and moderate altitude – are the two Barbera sites for this powerful, exceptional wine. Selective manual harvesting, spontaneous fermentation with the vineyard's own yeasts in stainless steel and a maceration period of around three to four weeks ensure depth and grip. Malolactic fermentation and maturation then take place in wood (predominantly used barrels), without fining or filtration; short bottle rest before release.

The name means "motherland" – and the Tedeschi family has indeed found a special spot of land with the 84-hectare vineyard between Tregnago and Mezzane di Sotto, which they acquired in 2006. Extensive soil mapping identified real crus here, including the Impervio vineyard – named after its impassable steep slope at an altitude of 400 metres. White and yellow limestone marl of moraine origin characterise the terroir and give the wine its characteristic freshness. Corvina (40%), Corvinone (30%) and Rondinella (30%) are harvested overripe in mid to late October and fermented as whole bunches – a conscious decision for structure and depth of flavour. After 20 days of maceration, the wine matures for 18 months in Slavonian oak and a further six months in the bottle.

A signature classic from the Collio: Schiopetto’s single-varietal Sauvignon Bianco comes from old vines around Capriva del Friuli – on marl and sandstone soils that are perfectly suited to aromatic varieties. Hand-harvesting, a short maceration period and ageing in stainless steel tanks preserve the wine’s freshness and precision. Pale yellow with greenish highlights. The bouquet is intense but never overpowering: white currant, salted lemon, elderflower, a hint of lemon balm and wet stone. On the palate, it is clear, straightforward and elegant, with lively acidity, salty minerality and a delicate citrus zest in the long finish.

Mirum (the miracle) is a statement of limestone, altitude and time. It is no ordinary Verdicchio, but one of the most charismatic Riserva bottlings in central Italy. Vinified since 1990, it comes from a particularly barren, limestone-rich south-western slope above Matelica, where the vines grow at over 400 metres. The wine is matured exclusively in stainless steel, but with long lees ageing – a decision that combines clarity, texture and ageing potential.

Pergolaia consists mainly of Sangiovese with smaller proportions of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The wine opens with a medium-bodied attack and a bright bouquet characterised by notes of cherry, wild plum, ploughed earth and pressed blue flowers. This very Mediterranean-style red with a strong personality envelops the palate with a delicate, silky intensity. SUPERIORE.DE

Marc de Grazia made Etna history when he rediscovered the forgotten volcanic slopes over two decades ago. His Etna Rosso – the estate's 'calling card' – now blends grapes from various vineyards at altitudes between 600 and 900 metres, where Nerello Mascalese grows on ancient volcanic soils. The vines are situated on the cool northern slopes of Mount Etna, surrounded by black pumice and lava rock – a terroir that lends every sip its unmistakable mineral character.

Schiopetto has been producing Pinot Grigio since 1968 – long before it became (unfortunately, in some other regions) Italy's best-selling mass-market white wine – and the Rotolo family has never forgotten what it truly excels at: depth, juiciness and mineral vigour. On the Ponca hills of Capriva del Friuli, in marly soils of Eocene origin, the variety finds a terroir that leaves no room for mediocrity. Gentle pressing, brief sulphur-free decanting, fermentation in stainless steel at a controlled temperature – followed by eight months' ageing on the lees. No oak, no detours, everything focused on the Ponca.

Crognolo is a wonderfully balanced wine that offers the tangy freshness and acidity of Sangiovese, which is balanced and softened by the small proportion of Merlot. The wine smells of cherry, blackberry and plum. Its primary intensity is bright and cheerful. The juicy finish shows a nice density, extraction and well-integrated tannins. SUPERIORE.DE

The "Riserva" is the ageing category prescribed by the Chianti Classico production regulations, requiring a minimum of 24 months' total ageing, of which at least three months must be spent in the bottle. At Tenuta Perano near Gaiole, the historic heart of the appellation, the estate has also opted for 24 months in wooden barrels – a choice made by the estate rather than a requirement of the regulations – which gives the Sangiovese and Merlot their elegant, refined character. The vines grow at an altitude of 500 metres, in a natural south-west-facing amphitheatre whose microclimate bestows upon the grapes exceptional ripeness and freshness in equal measure. Selected by hand, the wine ferments in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks with frequent pumping over of the cap to ensure complete phenolic extraction, before undergoing 24 months' ageing in wooden barrels followed by a further period in the bottle.

Named after the "Seggio" stream, the largest watercourse in the municipality of Castagneto Carducci, this elegant Bordeaux blend embodies the approachability and finesse of the Bolgheri DOC. The historic watercourse rises in the Etruscan Colline Metallifere near Sassetta and flows through the entire Bolgheri region, its alluvial deposits enriching the characteristic clay soils with valuable pebbles. This harmonious cuvée comes from the prime vineyards of Le Sondraie and Via Bolgherese. The vines, which are around 19 years old, thrive on well-drained, stony soils with a layer of clay and high magnesium and iron content – ideal conditions for this international blend of grape varieties.

Pietrabianca offers a contrast between richness and freshness and seduces with a blend of white flowers, almond paste, wet stone and crushed red pears. Silky and supple, it caresses the palate with an elegant wave of ripe peach and nectarine. Lingers long, leaving a mineral and acidic tension as notes of candied lime fade. Not only is it stunning today, but it has a bright future. SUPERIORE.DE

Bucine, Valdarno di Sopra – where the Arno meanders through rolling hills between Arezzo and Florence, the Fattoria Petrolo lies at an altitude of between 250 and 500 metres. In 1988, Lucia Bazzocchi Sanjust wanted a wine that would convey the true identity of this terroir: Petrolo's "Château", a tribute to the centuries-old Tuscan tradition of blending French grape varieties with Sangiovese. As early as 1834, Giorgio Perrin, an agronomist of Swiss origin and owner of Petrolo, reported in the *Giornale Agrario Toscano* as early as 1834 that it was common practice in Chianti to blend "uve francesi" with Sangiovese, not to alter the quality, but because the terroir takes precedence over the grape varieties.