Wine Spectator

Since 1977, every Castellare label has featured a different bird – a tribute to the biodiversity of the Tuscan vineyards and a symbol of Paolo Panerai's vision to preserve authentic Chianti Classico. The estate consistently avoids international grape varieties and relies exclusively on Tuscan tradition: 95% Sangioveto, the fine local Sangiovese clone, and 5% Canaiolo form the classic blend of Italy's most famous red wine. The grapes grow on limestone soils at an altitude of between 350 and 400 metres in Castellina in Chianti, where they develop their characteristic elegance. Following vinification, the wine is aged for seven months in French barriques.

According to tradition, the River Dirillo, near the Dorilli estate, is said to be the legendary landing place of Aeneas on his odyssey from Troy. Whether this is true cannot be proven. What can be proven, however, is that this area, situated between the southern coast and the Iblean Mountains, has an extraordinary history of wine-growing. Dorilli is the quintessence of Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico – the highest tier of this unique Sicilian DOCG. Planeta produces it from carefully selected vines at the estate of the same name in Acate: 70% Nero d'Avola, 30% Frappato di Vittoria, grown on the characteristic loose red sand with a layer of tuff that defines the terroir of Vittoria from within. Organically farmed according to the SOStain protocol.

It took seven years and 35 purchase agreements to bring together the scattered parcels of Montebruna. When they succeeded, the joy was so great that the Bolognas invited artists, poets and musicians to give voice and verse to this vineyard. "Una terra che parla" – a land that speaks – they called the project. And indeed, anyone who drinks Montebruna hears Rocchetta Tanaro speak. The vines are rooted in Braida's heartland, 100% Barbera from their own vineyards. Two weeks of maceration in temperature-controlled steel, then a year of ageing in large oak barrels – classic, without barrique dominance.

In 1987, Castello Romitorio was not yet a winery. Just a castle, an artist and an idea. Sandro Chia bought grapes from his friend and cellar master Franco Martini and had the first wine vinified – even before a single vine of his own had ripened. That was the Romitorio: not a reaction, but an attitude. Today it grows at Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte in Scansano, 25 kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, at an altitude of 170 metres. The soils are of Pliocene origin – galestro, clay, Alberese, interspersed with fossils and shell remains, remnants of a primeval seabed. Petit Verdot and Syrah give the wine its profile: fermentation in steel, ageing in cement and oak.

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

In 1872, Bettino Ricasoli wrote down his famous formula – the blueprint of what Chianti Classico should be: Sangiovese as the heart, structure as the backbone, terroir as the argument. The fact that his descendants have named this wine after him is not nostalgia. It is a commitment. Brolio Bettino is a single-varietal Sangiovese – and that is intentional. No blending, no corrective. The grapes grow on five geological formations: Sandstone, Galestro, Alberese, marine sediments and old river terraces – a terroir mosaic that combines depth and complexity in one glass. Fermentation in small stainless steel tanks, 18 months of ageing in large barrels: classic, without compromise. The 2022 vintage was capricious – mild winter, dry spring, a hailstorm in July, but it ended on a mild note.

The dark and, at first, somewhat brooding Sceg shimmers in the glass with a rich and earthy blend of plum sauce, brown spices and crushed autumn leaves. The wine is silky smooth and balanced by a lively acidity, whilst a contrasting wave of black fruits with citrus aromas washes over the senses. Smoky nuances and hints of ash resonate throughout. Nevertheless, it finishes remarkably fresh, leaving behind a subtle hint of mineral tannins that remind connoisseurs of Basilicata that this is a young Aglianico in its purest form. The grapes for Sceg come from several small plots of old vines in Barile. SUPERIORE.DE

Lagrein is South Tyrol's great indigenous red grape variety – and at Tiefenbrunner it finds ideal conditions. The grapes come from the slopes of Entiklar and Margreider Leiten, at altitudes of 220 to 350 metres, where limestone gravel soils formed from moraine deposits provide mineral depth. Some of the vines were planted as far back as 1967 – experience you can really taste. Following maceration in stainless steel, malolactic fermentation takes place, after which the wine matures for eight months in large and small wooden barrels. The result: a Lagrein that combines power with elegance.

Ruby red in colour with a violet hue. Ripe cherry, blackberry and violet on the nose, with a hint of herbal spice. Juicy, fresh and precise on the palate, carried by fine tannins and lively, pure-toned fruit. The pure stainless steel maturation reinforces the varietal character. Winemaker Chiara Boschis is regarded as a pioneer of organic winegrowing in Piedmont – her tireless, quality-driven work and likeable personality characterise each of her wines. SUPERIORE.DE

With this exceptional Chianti Classico Riserva, the Mazzei family pays tribute to their famous ancestor, Ser Lapo, in whose writings the name "Chianti" is first mentioned. The upper part of the label features a faithful reproduction of one of his writings (dating from 1398) in beautiful calligraphy. "Do not worry about the cost of this wine, even though it was expensive: its quality will more than make up for it."

Fine Sauvignon Blanc from grapes grown on limestone gravel soils in Kurtatsch and loamy sandy soils in Völser Aicha. Rich flavours of elderflower, gooseberry, green pepper, sage and mint. An elegant wine, pleasantly mineral, fresh and juicy with well-balanced acidity. SUPERIORE.DE

Giovanni Neri founded the winery in Montalcino in 1971. What he built and his sons continue to run is one of the most precise houses in the appellation – known for its Brunelli, but also for the high standards that run through all its wines, regardless of the denominazione on the label. The IrRosso is Casanova di Neri's most accessible wine – a Toscana IGT that applies the house's craft to younger vines. Sangiovese from the Fiesole vineyard, right next to the estate, complemented by a small proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot from the southern Montalcino parcels. Hand-picked, hand-selected and optically sorted, spontaneous fermentation in open conical steel tanks, 13 days of maceration with regular pumping over.

An authentic expression of Piedmont: this pure Nebbiolo comes from young vines (from both the Tortona and Serravallo terroirs) at higher altitudes around Barolo, Novello and Sinio. Produced in a completely natural style and following traditional vinification methods, it reflects the purity of the grape variety in its purest form. Ageing in stainless steel, with a minimal proportion in neutral oak, emphasises this pure fruit and its origin without any masking.

Cladrecis is an elegant interpretation of Chardonnay from the far north-east of Italy – full of character, harmonious and impressively balanced. The grapes come from a small plot in the hamlet of the same name in the municipality of Prepotto, whose limestone-rich soils and cool microclimate provide ideal conditions for the finesse typical of this grape variety. Ageing in wooden barrels and on the fine lees lends the wine a subtle creaminess, delicate toasted notes and a hint of vanilla, without masking its freshness.

Between the legendary Bricco Boschis and Monprivato crus lies a small parcel of just 2.25 hectares that epitomises Cavallotto's answer to the question: What does Barolo excellence taste like in Dolcetto format? The Vigna Scot, with its east-north-east exposure, benefits from the same chalky, clayey geology that gives the great Baroli their structure. The grapes undergo traditional vinification with indigenous yeasts and short 3-4 day maceration, followed by six months in 50-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels and a further six months in concrete tanks. This double maturation creates the characteristic texture: structured but smooth.

In Campo Rotaliano, this geological treasure trove nestled amongst the peaks of the Dolomites, Elisabetta Foradori has been rewriting the history of Teroldego for four decades. What began in 1960 as a family wine is now the epitome of indigenous excellence. The grapes come from twelve hand-selected plots spanning nine hectares, their roots reaching deep into alluvial sand and dolomite limestone. Fifteen different Teroldego biotypes, developed through years of mass selection, reflect the diversity of this unique terroir. Biodynamic Demeter cultivation, practised since 2002, allows the indigenous grape variety to unfold its original identity. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete tanks, partly using whole bunches, preserves the lively fruitiness. Twelve months' ageing in a combination of concrete and oak vats lends the wine structure without being overpowering.

What Carricante is to white wines, Nerello Mascalese is to reds on Mount Etna: a grape variety shaped more distinctly by this terroir than by any other in the world. Thin-skinned, light in colour, low in tannins – fragile at first glance. At second glance: precise to the very core. The younger Nerello Mascalese vines of Contrada Montedolce form the basis of the Contrade Nuove – direct, approachable, with the freshness that the north-facing slope climate at 730 to 750 metres almost inevitably produces. The warm summer of 2022 gave the wine a little more texture and dark fruit than usual – the timely autumn rain preserved its freshness. Davide Rosso vinifies using a modular approach that is unusual by Etna standards: amphorae for oxygen contact, conical oak barrels and stainless steel. This is Giovanni's deliberate strategy to counteract the Nerello's tendency towards reduction without sacrificing fruit and minerality.