Wine Spectator

40 years Brunello di Montalcino by Casanova di Neri: Intense bouquet of sour cherry with nuances of chocolate, spices, liquorice and herbs. Energetic and highly vital on the palate. Wonderfully layered and seamlessly integrated dark fruit flavours open up with each sip, paired with a subtle vein of salt. Its tannins are like velvet and silk, the long, sweeping finish reveals that Sangiovese excellence we love so much at Casanova di Neri! SUPERIORE.DE

Dark and powerful in the glass with full-bodied flavours of black cherry and blackberry. Spices, leather and balsamic herbs are evident in the background. Medium to full-bodied with very fine tannins that are polished and attractive and melt into the wine. What beautiful purity and finesse! SUPERIORE.DE

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are situated in the territories of three neighbouring municipalities within the Chianti Classico region: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three major vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time, in order to do justice to the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

In 1977, at a time when the term "terroir" was virtually unknown in Montalcino and little attention was paid to the concept of zoning, Caparzo produced the first vintage of this wine. Its name derives from the farm where the farm labourers who worked for the owners of the nearby Palazzo Montosoli once lived. With "La Casa", Caparzo was once again a pioneer: one of the first single-vineyard Brunellos in the entire appellation, from one of Montalcino's most privileged vineyards. And this wine marks a second milestone: Caparzo was among the first wineries to introduce barrique barrels to Montalcino, thereby creating a wine of a gentle, elegant character. The five-hectare vineyard is situated on Montosoli hill, 275 metres above sea level, with a south-southeast-facing aspect. Montosoli is not a large hill, but its slightly greater altitude protects it from both mist and late frosts – a decisive advantage in this northern sector of the appellation, which has cooler average temperatures than other areas. The soil is schist-clay, known locally as "galestro", and is well-drained; the site enjoys an exceptional amount of sunshine.

Concerto was born in 1981, a time when Italian viticulture was undergoing dynamic change. The potential that had hitherto gone untapped was recognised, and new viticultural practices were introduced, with successful experiments carried out for the first time with international grape varieties. It was Marchesa Carla Mazzei who, in 1981, after the first tasting of just fifteen barriques, spontaneously chose the name Concerto – a symphony had unfolded in her glass. As one of the first ten Super Tuscans, this wine made history and revolutionised the understanding of Tuscan wine. The Sangiovese comes from the Scassi vineyard in the western part of Fonterutoli, surrounded by oak forests at an altitude of 350 metres, and is sourced from mass selections in an experimental vineyard dating back to the 1930s. And the small proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon has, over four decades, developed a character entirely of its own here, far removed from the international style it takes on elsewhere. The 18-month ageing in French barriques subsequently lends the wine its refined structure, without overshadowing its original elegance.

It was Domizio Cavazza, director of the Royal School of Viticulture in Alba, who gave Barbaresco its name and its claim to fame in 1894. A wine that was to stand up to the more powerful Barolo – finer, accessible earlier, but no less complex. More than a century later, the roles are clearly divided: Barbaresco stands for the elegant side of Nebbiolo, for finesse instead of power, for fragrance instead of darkness. Prunotto has found his answer to this appellation in a single vineyard: Bric Turot. Five hectares at around 200 metres, with an exposure from south-west to south-east, which gives the hill the shape of a natural amphitheatre. The soil – tortonian limestone and marl with veins of sand, rich in magnesium and manganese – is the same foundation on which Gajas Sorì Tildin stands just a few metres away. Not bad terrain then.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are situated in the territories of three neighbouring municipalities within the Chianti Classico region: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three major vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time, in order to reflect the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

Lodovico Lisini died in 1950, leaving the estate to his daughter Elina. At a time when the mezzadria system was coming to an end and agriculture was falling into disuse, Elina took a different approach: she invested, planted new vineyards and transformed the family home into a proper winery. In 1967, she was one of the 24 founders of the Brunello Consortium. She served as its president for many years. Until her death in 2009, it was the quiet, tenacious Elina Lisini who built the reputation of this estate – and of a wine that Giulio Gambelli, Italy's most legendary wine taster, helped to shape. The estate is situated in southern Montalcino between Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate, on tuff-rich soil of Eocene origin, 300 to 350 metres above sea level and characterised by the warm Maremma breezes. 2021 was a year of extraordinary harmony: a warm, balanced summer, cool nights lasting well into September, consistent ripening and precise tannins.

The grapes for this Supertuscan come from the San Giovanni vineyard near San Giovanni a Cerreto. In the church next to the vineyard there is a painting by Rutilo Manetti depicting St John the Baptist (San Giovanni). Deep ruby red, youthful, rich, dark fruit, berry and cassis flavours meld with French oak. On the palate with deep, subtle fruit flavours and an excellent balance of fruit and tannin, plus some smoke, liquorice and tar. A rich but not too heavy red with excellent structure and great ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Some vintages need no introduction. 2019 is one of them. Mild winter, soils well watered. Cool spring, vegetation two weeks behind the calendar – a blessing in disguise. Then a summer with moderate warmth around 25 degrees, without the scorching extremes that lignify tannins and burn fruit. And a September that brought everything together: slowly, evenly, precisely. Montalcino breathed a sigh of relief. Roberto Giannelli and Paolo Caciorgna had it easy – and difficult at the same time. Easy, because the raw material was impeccable. Difficult because you have to make a wine of the century from a vintage of the century. The answer: no over-commitment. Steel, concrete, large barrels. Patience instead of intervention and respect instead of actionism.

It is no exaggeration to describe Riecines Chianti Classico as an archetype of the Gaiole terroir: In the glass, it is light in colour with notes of wild berries, blackberries and white pepper. These slightly wilder aromas are very characteristic of Gaiole in Chianti, particularly of this corner of the sub-zone near the village after which it is named. This cool site produces a crisp and elegant Sangiovese with tension and bite, peppery tannins, and notes of small black fruits that linger through to a respectable finish. For years, Riecine has been producing one of the most subtle Chianti Classicos – a magnificent wine. SUPERIORE.DE

The year 2020 carries a heavy burden in our memories. Pandemic, silence, state of emergency. The vines didn't care. They grew – under a sun that knew no mercy in July and August. Up to 40 degrees in Tuscany. Water reserves scarce. The consortium's message: "annata versatile", a changeable vintage. What sounds diplomatic meant that the differences between the estates were greater in 2020 than ever before. San Filippo was one of the beneficiaries. The north-east exposure at 260 to 280 metres, the clayey-limestone subsoil with slate components – this terroir does not lose its freshness when others have long since lost it. Organic cultivation since 2013: soils that breathe, buffer. Vines that know stress, but don't break from it.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are located in the areas of three neighbouring municipalities of Chianti Classico: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three large vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time in order to recognise the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

The fruit for this Brunello comes from a 14.4 hectare south-facing vineyard with loamy soils and lots of boulders. Complex, dark and earthy bouquet of ripe black cherries, enriched with notes of dried flowers, spices, crushed stones and a hint of animal musk. The palate reveals silky textures and pure Sangiovese fruit, underpinned by earthy tones supported by a network of minerals and tannins. The mouthfeel is always lean, tangy and soft, although you can feel the wine's full body and great appeal at all times. The final is polished and refined and lasts for several minutes. SUPERIORE.DE

Guidalberto bears the name of a man who shaped the Bolgheri landscape forever in the early 19th century: Guidalberto della Gherardesca, the visionary agricultural pioneer who created the famous cypress avenue – the Viale dei Cipressi – was created. What was initially intended as a practical demarcation between different areas of cultivation became the iconic silhouette of an entire region. 2023 marks a turning point for this exceptional wine. For the first time, Tenuta San Guido is positioning its Guidalberto separately from the legendary Sassicaia – a deliberate move to demonstrate that this is not a "second wine", but an independent interpretation of the Bolgheri terroir. As Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta puts it: "You can't compare them. They are completely different worlds." The 2023 vintage is a synthesis of 55 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 45 per cent Merlot. While the Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and depth, the Merlot brings the silky texture and accessible sweetness that makes Guidalberto so distinctive. Fifteen months in French and American barriques give the wine its characteristic balance between strength and elegance.

Rio Sordo stands alone. It is the southernmost vineyard of the Produttori del Barbaresco, a narrow strip stretching from north to south and bordering the municipality of Treiso to the west. The soils are light in colour, low in limestone and airy – quite unlike the clay-rich slopes to the north or the limestone-rich sites in the centre. And it is precisely this 'less' that leads to a 'more': silkiness. Tannins that never overwhelm, but rather accompany the wine. A surface that seduces before revealing its depth. The winemaking process is the same as for all Produttori del Barbaresco vineyards: 28 days' maceration, more than thirty months in Slavonian oak barrels, and a year in the bottle. First vinified as a single vineyard in 1978 – at a time when the world was just beginning to take Barbaresco seriously.

Coste di Rose, covering one and a half hectares, is the smallest of Vajra's single-vineyard plots, named after the wild roses that once lined the steep slope in Vergne. Situated at an altitude of 310 to 350 metres, this narrow plot lies on sandy, well-drained soil – significantly lighter than the heavier marl of the neighbouring Bricco delle Viole – and brings out the most fragrant and delicate qualities of the Nebbiolo grown here. The steep slope and small area allow only a limited, almost experimental production within the Vajra range. Produced as a single-varietal wine, it matures for around 36 months in large casks – a shorter period than most other crus in the cellar – a deliberate compromise in favour of freshness and aroma rather than power and tannic richness.

There are wines that tell stories even before you've tasted them. This is one of them. Its name – the Hill of the Magpies – refers to that special vineyard where these elegant birds build their nests and from where the view sweeps unobstructed across the Tyrrhenian Sea. Here, where the salty Mediterranean breeze meets volcanic soil, one of Tuscany's most innovative white wines has been produced for more than two decades. It embodies a refreshing spirit which, to quote: "is as delicate as a breeze, yet at the same time lush and self-assured". This poetic description hits the nail on the head: Poggio alle Gazze is Ornellaia's answer to the question of what a white wine from Bolgheri might be like if it possessed the elegance and depth of the great reds. Six months' ageing on the fine lees with regular bâtonnage, followed by the assembly of the final blend and a further 12 months' ageing in the bottle, complete this masterpiece of white wine artistry.

The MGA Le Coste is located in the heights of Monforte d'Alba, where the rows of vines nestle at 440 metres on south-east facing slopes – a site that Barolo connoisseurs appreciate for its vigour and unmistakable character. The whitish marl soils of this plot of just under one hectare give the Nebbiolo the mineral depth and structural rigour that make Monforte wines so unique. Orlando and Attilio Pecchenino vinify the grapes of this single-vineyard Barolo with the utmost respect for the terroir: temperature-controlled fermentation in steel tanks is followed by an extended maceration of 60 days using the historic method of the sunken cap, before the wine matures for a full 36 months in large oak barrels and cement vats after malolactic fermentation.

The self as an extension of consciousness – this is how Gianfranco Fino understands the name of this wine. The place where creativity awakens and the future emerges. A philosophy that suits the man his friends once called "Geriatra del Primitivo": The geriatrician who saves old vines where others uproot them. The adventure began in 2004, when the former olive consultant discovered an overgrown vineyard in Manduria. Fino planted a new vineyard for the Sé, following an ancient pattern: Alberello pugliese, the "rabbit ears" of Salento, with 12,000 vines per hectare. Each vine bears only 400 grams of grapes – concentrated essence instead of mass. The chalky-clay soils and the breeze from the Ionian Sea do the rest. After manual harvest and two to three weeks of maceration, the wine matures for nine months in wood, unfiltered and unfined.

To the north, Pora borders a vertical rocky ridge that drops steeply down to the Tanaro – covered by a dense oak forest, renowned for its white truffles. This is no coincidence. The river is close by, and its influence is palpable: summer mornings are milder than elsewhere, the humidity is higher, and the soil is more fertile than in most other vineyards belonging to the Produttori del Barbaresco. What the vines produce is a Nebbiolo with a particular approachability – a gentle touch that does not deny the traditional craftsmanship. For the craftsmanship is uncompromising: 28 days' maceration, at least thirty months in large Slavonian oak barrels, and a year in the bottle. Domizio Cavazza was one of the first to include Pora 1894 on his vineyard map; the Produttori have been bottling it separately since 1967.

A Barbera with a mysterious appearance – as if one were gazing into a dark, purplish-red abyss from which concentrated essences rise. Scarrone Vigna Vecchia comes from vines that are decades old – some planted around 1918 – in the Scarrone vineyard near Castiglione Falletto. In the cellar, spontaneous fermentation takes place in stainless steel, followed by around 16 months' ageing in predominantly French barriques, where the judicious use of oak subtly enhances the terroir.

With its 2020 Brunello di Montalcino, Tenuta Argiano shows once again why this historic winery is one of the leading voices in Montalcino. The Sangiovese Grosso grapes come from 60 hectares of vineyards around the 16th century villa, whose soils are characterised by clay, limestone and galestro. The year 2020 began with a mild winter and a consistently warm spring. A stable summer without extreme heat peaks and cool nights in September allowed the grapes to ripen evenly and completely. The grapes were harvest by hand in several stages, followed by careful vinification in cement and steel tanks. The wine then matured for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and tonneaux to harmoniously combine structure and elegance.

Barolo Le Coste di Monforte from the outstanding 2019 vintage is utterly captivating in the glass. Rose petals, cedarwood, mint, sweet pipe tobacco and blood orange are the first aromas to emerge. On the palate, it is deep and complex, and exceptionally beautiful and harmonious for a young Barolo. Time in the glass brings out its countless nuances. SUPERIORE.DE