Wine Spectator

In 1974, the Frescobaldi family at Nipozzano produced a wine for the first time from a single, clearly defined plot: Montesodi, named after the stony, hard soil that gives this site its character – a single-varietal Sangiovese, bottled separately vintage by vintage. It was the estate's first cru. The vines are situated at 400 metres, in south-west-facing schist soils, at an altitude that lends the Sangiovese here structure and an almost alpine coolness during the nights. Harvested by hand into 15-kilo crates and sorted on the selection table, the wine undergoes fermentation and maceration before malolactic fermentation takes place. It is aged for 18 months in 30-hectolitre barrels made of Austrian and French oak, followed by a further period of ageing in the bottle.

It was 1959 when Count Giuseppe Tasca d'Almerita set his sights on a hill on his Regaleali estate, which the farmers simply called San Lucio – after the small chapel that stood at the top. He planted Perricone and Nero d'Avola on this hill, in the heart of Sicily, far from any seashore, on clayey soil at an altitude of around 500 metres. Both ripened late, both deeply rooted in the island. What followed was no ordinary wine, but an assertion: that Sicily needs no apology. The first Rosso del Conte was produced from the 1970 harvest and was the island's first single-vineyard cru – at a time when Sicily was primarily known for mass-produced wines and the rest of Italy hardly looked at it. Count Giuseppe wanted to create a red wine that could compete with the world's great reds – without Cabernet, without Merlot, without a foreign language. Only the island itself.

Every year, Istine's Chianti Classico is one of the most racy and authentic representatives of its genre. Its weightlessness and at the same time precision make up a large part of its appeal. A finely knit bouquet of red berries, flowers, chalk and white pepper. Medium-bodied on the palate, its fine fruit, creamy tannins and plenty of personality come to light with further aeration. A red wine that takes hearts by storm with its lively, dancing and extremely fine nerve! SUPERIORE.DE

The vineyards of the Reyna site in the hills of Neive and Barbaresco benefit from an ideal south-east to south-west exposure and reddish limestone marl, which is loosened up by sandy inclusions. The grapes are deliberately harvested late in order to achieve optimum physiological ripeness. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine matures for around 18 months in large Allier and Slavonian oak barrels, followed by a resting period in the bottle. The 2021 vintage was characterised by a warm, stable summer and cool nights during the ageing phase, which ensured impressive aromatic precision and a taut structure.

In the heart of the Chianti Classico region, where the hills of Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti meet, lies the historic Castello di Fonterutoli estate. Owned by the Marchesi Mazzei family since 1435, this Chianti Classico epitomises a centuries-old winemaking tradition. The grapes come from 114 individually managed plots at altitudes ranging from 220 to 570 metres, each with its own microclimate and terroir. Composed mainly of Sangiovese, complemented by small proportions of Malvasia Nera and Colorino, each plot is vinified and aged separately to preserve the exceptional diversity of aromas and complexity.

It was a dream that the engineer Gastone Bazzocchi planted in the Tuscan soil in 1947 – five hectares of Sangiovese on a hill he called Bòggina. Luca Sanjust, his grandson and a former painter, reflects today on Paul Klee's "Angelus Novus" and Walter Benjamin's interpretation of this angel, who "turns his gaze towards the past" whilst "a storm blows from paradise". Such is Bòggina: a wine with its eyes on the past, yet relentlessly propelled towards the future. Since 2011, Petrolo has been experimenting with the vinification of a special batch made from the finest grapes of this historic vineyard in terracotta amphorae from Impruneta – the pottery craft that has shaped Tuscan culture since the time of the Etruscans. Fermentation takes place over two weeks in 300- andLiters using indigenous yeasts, before the vessels are hermetically sealed. For eight months, the wine macerates on the skins, protected by natural skin contact without the addition of sulphites.

When, in late October, the morning mists rise from the hills near Orvieto and settle like a silken veil over the vineyards of Castello della Sala, one of the most mysterious transformations in the world of wine begins. The grapes – Sauvignon Blanc, Grechetto, Traminer, Sémillon and Riesling – are afflicted by Botrytis cinerea, that noble rot which has been producing the world's finest sweet wines for centuries. The fungus penetrates the skin of the berries with invisible precision, drawing water from the flesh and concentrating sugars and aromas into an essence that no cellar technique could ever achieve. In several painstaking passes, the harvesters pick only those berries that have reached the ideal degree of botrytisation – a process that demands expertise and perfect timing, for the right moment is fleeting. After gentle pressing, the must ferments for 18 days at a controlled cool temperature of 17 degrees, before the still-sweet wine is transferred to French barriques. Here it matures for months, absorbing delicate woody nuances whilst the aromas and structure harmonise, before ageing in stainless steel completes the process.

1997 saw the birth of Bradisismo, named after the geological event that led to the formation of the Colli Berici. It is a successful symbiosis of the intense, concentrated flavour of ripe Cabernet cherries and the lively, spicy notes of Carménère. With its bouquet of small dark berries, spices, pepper and chocolate, it is a wonderfully inexpensive alternative to the great Bordeaux blends or Supertuscans. On the palate, it has a velvety texture, with a mix of dark fruits, cherries, floral notes and fine tannins that glide seamlessly over the palate. Deep, long finish and very good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been permitted to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive), introduced in 2021, on the labels of the top-tier Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, this is a logical step towards producing wines that reflect the region in which they were made as authentically as possible. And it enables customers to deepen their understanding of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin – a real added value.

Trefiano was created in 1979 based on an idea by Vittorio Contini Bonacossi, with the aim of showcasing the full complexity and ageing potential of Carmignano. Named after the historic hamlet of Trefiano, where a magnificent 16th-century villa is surrounded by two exquisite vineyards, this Riserva represents the very pinnacle of what the Tenuta di Capezzana has to offer. With just over 5,000 bottles produced annually, Trefiano is one of the rarest and most sought-after Tuscan Riservas – a wine that not only celebrates the present but was created for the future.

Tenuta Il Poggione is situated on the south-western slope of the Montalcino hill, in Sant'Angelo in Colle – one of the most historically significant areas within the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi laid the foundations here at the end of the 19th century, as a founding member of the Brunello Consortium and one of the first to market this wine under its current name. Today, his descendants, Leopoldo and Livia, cultivate 140 hectares of vines, with vines up to 60 years old, and adhere to a winemaking philosophy characterised by classical rigour: natural yeasts, large French oak barrels, and time.

The wine comes from a neighbouring walled vineyard around the Villa di Trefiano, which produces a wonderfully elegant variant of Carmignano. Trefiano Riserva remains in used 350-litre tonneaux for 18 months after spontaneous fermentation. Bright, noble ruby red colour. Black cherry and cassis on the nose, with an intense, ripe and juicy plum flavour. Long, multi-layered and complex on the palate, the Riserva needs a little more air and shows a little more depth than the classic Carmignano. The 10% Canaiolo component ensures its irresistible fragrance and complexity, simply marvellous! SUPERIORE.DE

The classic from the heart of Chianti Classico: Brolio combines the excellent drinkability of a young Chianti Classico with a complex, complete structure. The vineyards grow on the historic Castello di Brolio between 280 and 480 metres above sea level on five representative soil types – from sandstone to galestro and marine sediments. Intense ruby red colour. Fresh, floral nose with notes of chinotto, violets and mimosa, leading to fruity nuances of black cherries and sweet mint. Velvety and complex on the palate with great harmony, elegant structure and a long, mineral final. A textbook Chianti Classico from a historic terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

Tasca became involved in Etna at an early stage and the latest result of these years of experience are four single-vineyard red wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The Sciaranuova parcel is located at an average altitude of 730 metres above sea level between the villages of Montelaguardia and Passopisciaro. It covers an area of approximately 4.9 hectares of vineyards. The soils are of volcanic origin and up to 40,000 years old.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been permitted to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive), introduced in 2021, on the labels of the top-tier Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, this is a logical step towards producing wines that reflect the region in which they were made as authentically as possible. And it enables customers to deepen their understanding of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin – a genuine added value.

South of Bolgheri, where the pine trees stand like sentinels and the salty breath of the Tyrrhenian Sea permeates every breath, the vineyards stretch out on sandy, gravel-rich soils. Here, at just 50 metres above sea level, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc find ideal conditions – a composition that deliberately swims against the current of the usual Bolgheri cuvées.

Our pure enthusiasm for this authentic and wonderfully traditional Chianti Classico, which the likeable Monica Raspi and her family have been presenting to us for years: bright ruby red, finely spiced, with refined fruit depth, well-proportioned flavour, powerful, crisp structure, classic acidity and Sangiovese style, racy and mineral final. SUPERIORE.DE

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been permitted to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive), introduced in 2021, on the labels of the top-tier Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, this is a logical step towards producing wines that reflect the region in which they were made as authentically as possible. And it enables customers to deepen their understanding of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin – a real added value. For many years now, at Istine, a small and carefully selected portion of the Sangiovese has been vinified separately according to the vineyard's origin, in order to highlight and bring to life the specific characteristics of the site, the soil and the altitude. Since then, the finest grapes from the estate's own vineyards – Istine (Radda), Casanova dell'Aia (Radda) and Cavarchione (Gaiole) have been vinified separately, resulting in three now highly sought-after cru wines, of which just 3,000 bottles are released each year to specialist retailers and the hospitality sector. 

On the southern edge of the Chianti Classico region, where the hills slope gently towards the gates of Siena, lies Vigna Mezzapiaggia – a name that says it all. "Half-slope" is that privileged spot between heaven and earth where Angela Fronti is undertaking a bold experiment: growing Sangiovese at an altitude of just 250–300 metres, a far cry from the usual high altitudes of her estates in Radda and Gaiole. Yet here, in the UGA Vagliagli, she is writing a new chapter in her terroir philosophy. The two hectares of Mezzapiaggia rest on fine lacustrine deposits, the remains of a primeval lake, which lend the Sangiovese a completely different character to that of the stony Galestro soils of the northern slopes. The clay soils retain water and heat, whilst the unique aspect – north-facing at the top, east-facing at the bottom – creates a fascinating microclimate. 5,000 vines per hectare, organically cultivated in accordance with the strict FIVI principles for independent winegrowers.

In the dizzying heights of Lamole, where Chianti Classico reaches its natural limits, Angela Fronti is writing a new chapter in her Sangiovese saga. Elle – the letter that stands for Lamole, but also for "Lei", the feminine elegance that permeates this exceptional wine. Spanning just 0.45 hectares, scattered across the steep terraces at an altitude of 540 metres, the old vines take root in that distinctive Macigno del Chianti – a compact, non-calcareous sandstone that makes Lamole a unique entity within the Gallo Nero territory. The Fronti family, proud members of the FIVI (Federazione Italiana Vignaioli Indipendenti), embody their philosophy of absolute independence here: from their own vineyard right through to their own bottle. In Lamole, designated a magical UGA since 2017, they defy the extremes of the high altitude with a precision made possible only by decades of experience in viticulture.

For many years now, at Istine, a small and carefully selected portion of the Sangiovese has been vinified separately according to the vineyard's origin, in order to highlight and bring to life the specific characteristics of the site, the soil and the altitude. Since then, the finest grapes from the estate's own vineyards – Istine (Radda), Casanova dell'Aia (Radda) and Cavarchione (Gaiole) have been vinified separately, resulting in three now highly sought-after cru wines, of which just 3,000 bottles are released each year to specialist retailers and the hospitality sector.

CastelGiocondo is one of the great, historic estates in the Montalcino appellation, situated to the south-west of the town. The estate's origins date back to a fortress built in 1100, which once secured the road from the coast to Siena, long before wine was ever considered in this area. At an altitude of around 300 metres, the vines grow in three fundamentally different soil types – galestro, clay and Pliocene sand – whose interplay gives the wine its complexity, as each plot contributes its own distinctive character to the cuvée.

In Campo Rotaliano, this geological treasure trove nestled amongst the peaks of the Dolomites, Elisabetta Foradori has been rewriting the history of Teroldego for four decades. What began in 1960 as a family wine is now the epitome of indigenous excellence. The grapes come from twelve hand-selected plots spanning nine hectares, their roots reaching deep into alluvial sand and dolomite limestone. Fifteen different Teroldego biotypes, developed through years of mass selection, reflect the diversity of this unique terroir. Biodynamic Demeter cultivation, practised since 2002, allows the indigenous grape variety to unfold its original identity. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete tanks, partly using whole bunches, preserves the lively fruitiness. Twelve months' ageing in a combination of concrete and oak vats lends the wine structure without being overpowering.

There are wines that make history. Enrico Serafino's Zero is one of them: when the 2004 vintage was launched on the market in 2011, it was the first Pas Dosé in the history of the Alta Langa DOCG – a pioneering achievement that was to shape the self-image of an entire denomination. Three years later, Gambero Rosso named Zero the best Italian sparkling wine of the year. No coincidence, but the logical consequence of an uncompromising philosophy. Zero – the name says it all. Zero grams of dosage, no liqueur d'expédition, no concession to favour. What remains is the pure terroir of the Alta Langa: 100% Pinot Nero from altitudes of over 400 metres, where calcareous soils and alpine influences give the wine its mineral tension. After manual harvesting and whole bunch pressing under nitrogen, the must ferments at a controlled temperature in stainless steel. The wine is aged on the lees for at least 60 months – five years, during which time unfolds its magic. The late sboccatura marks the final act before release.