Wine Spectator

The name pays tribute to the Butteri, those legendary horsemen of the Maremma who have been the symbol of this region for generations – powerful yet elegant. It refers to the long, tapered ash-wood herding staff with which the Butteri still guide their herds across the plains of the Maremma to this day. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah blend here to create a full-bodied, rich red wine – the Syrah component lends it particular depth without sacrificing the elegance and freshness typical of Rocca di Frassinello.

In April 2021, temperatures in Montalcino dropped below zero. The vines, which had already begun to bud, were hit by the frost. What followed was a season of recovery: a rainy spring gave the vines the strength they needed to withstand a long, hot summer. Significant temperature fluctuations between day and night preserved freshness and aromatic precision. The harvest: concentrated, fragrant, healthy. In Montalcino, 2021 is regarded as a classic, elegant vintage. Not the opulence of 2019, nor the concentration of 2020, but balance. 100% Sangiovese, organically grown, spontaneous fermentation, 38 months in large French oak barrels (30 and 54 hectolitres), at least 6 months in bottle.

The top-quality Vigneto Erchi Riserva comes from the small vineyard of the same name, which has belonged to Fattoria Selvapiana since 1998. The owners spent a long time searching for a vineyard whose terroir impressively demonstrates the complexity of Sangiovese in the Rufina region, making this wine a high-calibre addition to the famous Selvapiana collection.

In 1991, Alois Lageder succeeded in acquiring Casòn Hirschprunn, a historic estate that was mentioned in documents as early as the 13th century and today forms the spiritual heart of Lageder's biodynamic philosophy. Here, in the Renaissance palazzo in the middle of Magreid, where over 30 hectares of vineyards between 230 and 360 metres adorn the gentle slopes of the Margreider Schuttkegel, a revolution began in 1995: the first biodynamic experiments on Italian soil, which made the winery one of the pioneers of this holistic form of cultivation. "Tasting the unpredictable" – is how Alois Lageder himself defines the nature of this extraordinary white wine, which epitomises the joy of experimentation and innovative strength of the estate like no other.

The road to Sant'Angelo in Colle leads to the south-west side of the Montalcino hill. Here lies the Tenuta Il Poggione – one of the oldest and most reliable houses in the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi, a Florentine landowner, bought the estate at the end of the 19th century after, it is said, hearing about the beauty of these hills from a shepherd. He was one of the first to market Brunello under this name and one of the founders of the consortium. Today, the fourth generation – leopoldo and Livia Franceschi – run the estate with 140 hectares of vines, the oldest vines up to 60 years old and a philosophy that has not fundamentally changed in a century.

Sparkling, medium-dense ruby-garnet colour. The Rancia Riserva from the single vineyard of the same name is powerful and energetic, expressive and dense and has been elevated to "Gran Selezione" status for the first time. The aroma is characterised by ripe, full-bodied fruit and mineral notes. The flavour is earthy, tannic and terroir-influenced, beautifully articulated, fine and with an enjoyable length. A wine that requires sensitivity and/or a few years of rest. SUPERIORE.DE

The often underrated Madre is an elegant yet juicy cuvée of Sangiovese and barrel-aged Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark and luscious on the palate, it captures many of the best qualities of the house's established style. Black cherries, raspberry jam, plums, graphite, smoke, lavender, liquorice and dark spices envelop the palate in an effortless, juicy red wine that is a real insider's tip after some aeration. SUPERIORE.DE

Strong dark ruby colour. Pepper and spice accents, aromas of ripe red and dark fruit and a slightly animal note characterise the precise aroma. The perfect balance between tannin, silky elements and acidity guarantee a full-bodied flavour full of character. SUPERIORE.DE

Away from the dominance of Sangiovese in the Conca d'Oro, Giovanni Manetti shows the international side of Fontodi with this single-varietal Syrah. The hand-picked Syrah grapes grow in the south-facing single vineyards Case Via and Pecile around Villa Pecile, where the calcareous-clay soils and the Mediterranean microclimate with pronounced day-night temperature fluctuations prove to be ideal for the Rhône grape variety. After three weeks of spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts, the organically certified wine matures for twelve months in French barriques from Troncais and Allier.

The year was 1090, the year in which Leif Erikson discovered North America, the Chinese discovered gunpowder and Pope Urban II conquered Jerusalem. On that day, the notary Bellundo recorded a contract in the Siena state archives: two capons, three loaves of bread and six coins of good silver as an annual lease for a vineyard in the divine valley of Dievole. "Dio vuole" – god wants it. This is the etymological root of this name, which has symbolised the special connection between man and nature in this corner of Tuscany for over nine centuries.

Fanti's Brunello di Montalcino 2020 is delicately flavoured, haunting floral and seductive from the first swirl of the glass. A hint of icing sugar gives way to bright cherries, candied oranges, mint leaves and lavender, creating an extrovert yet delicious picture. In the mouth, it is seamless and silky, with a subtle hint of citrus and vibrant acids introducing ripe red notes of black berries with herbs. Rounded tannins emerge on the finish with hints of liquorice and violets. As always, very well made. SUPERIORE.DE

In 2014, Tenuta Perano near Gaiole became the first Frescobaldi estate in Chianti Classico – the appellation's historic heartland, where the family had not previously owned an estate of its own. Rialzi takes its name from the three natural terraces on which it grows, at an altitude of 500 metres and above, in south-west-facing Alberese soils, nestled within a natural amphitheatre of steep slopes. Harvested by hand and selected again in the cellar, the Sangiovese ferments in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks with skin contact and gentle pumping over to ensure gentle extraction. This is followed by 24 months in barriques, before a further period in the bottle completes the 36-month ageing process, thereby significantly exceeding the minimum ageing period of 30 months required for the Gran Selezione.

The A in the name of Boggina stands for the natural wine aged for around 6 months in 400-600 Liters terracotta amphorae, which is bottled in a run of just 5,000 bottles without the addition of sulphites. Light, bright garnet red in colour. The bouquet is ethereal, very delicate and nuanced, with a very precise interpretation of the fragrance of the Sangiovese grape. Medium-bodied on the palate, with an exceptionally beautiful structure and authentic Sangiovese fruit with a salty vein. The finish is highly drinkable, with silky tannins and beguiling length. A masterpiece of beauty and elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

Ugolforte was a resistance fighter. In the 12th century, he led the people of Montalcino against the Sienese occupying forces – a local hero whose name lives on to this day: in a Brunello. The most striking contradiction dates back to 2010. That was when Tenuta San Giorgio began officially supplying the Ugolforte to the Pontifical Swiss Guard – that 500-year-old corps which guards the Pope in the Vatican. The estate says that shared values, and the symbolism of St George himself – virtue and courage, good triumphing over evil – guided the decision. The wine of the medieval rebel in the service of Christendom's oldest army.

The world-famous Valpolicella Superiore from Zenato, produced using the Ripasso method, is a rich wine with the best value. It is peppery, with earthy tones and gravel giving way to black cherries and savoury herbs. It reveals deep, silky textures balanced by vibrant acids, while ripe red and black fruits resonate under a hint of lavender. Zenato's Ripassa is concentrated and intense, but at the same time conveys elegance and leaves a fresh note of violet candy on the palate that lingers for a long time. SUPERIORE.DE

"Il ritorno alle origini." This is how Matteo Ascheri describes his new Barolo. In an appellation that has been increasingly focussing on single vineyards for decades, this is a deliberate approach: not a single parcel, but a careful selection from the best vineyards of the house. Thoroughness and uncompromisingness, not in the vineyard alone, but continued with the same meticulousness in the cellar. Seven generations of experience, a clear statement. 100% Nebbiolo, hand-picked between 5 and 20 October – when the Nebbiolo in the Langhe reaches its ripening point, not earlier. Fermentation for 14 days at 28°C. What follows takes time: Storage potential of 20 to 25 years. 2021 was a year of great elegance in the Langhe – even ripeness, cool nights, precise phenolic structure. Wine Spectator has included the 2021 in its Top 100. The wine explains why.

Whilst the Cerretta and Baudana cru wines each showcase a single facet of Serralunga d'Alba, the Barolo del Comune embodies the full spectrum of the estate: Cerretta faces south-east on iron-rich Lequio clay, Baudana faces south-west on a mixture of Lequio and Sant'Agata marl, and Costabella faces south to south-east on purer Sant'Agata soil. Many of the vines in Cerretta and Baudana were planted as early as 1990; Costabella was added later as a third element. The idea behind this is deliberately democratic: different exposures, altitudes and soils are intended to come together in the glass to form a balanced whole, rather than a single defining characteristic. Fermentation takes place spontaneously in open wooden vats, with a maceration period of 20 to 25 days, before the wine matures in large Slavonian oak barrels and is only released for sale after further bottle ageing.

In 1980, Filippo Fanti bottled his first Brunello. He had taken over the estate in the early 1970s, replanted the vineyards, studied the soil plot by plot – and then waited for the first harvest he deemed worthy. This first vintage was no trial run. It was a declaration of intent. Since then, Tenuta Fanti has not missed a single vintage. Castelnuovo dell'Abate is the southernmost sub-region of Montalcino – closer to the sea, warmer and more Mediterranean than the northern vineyards, watched over by the Abbey of Sant'Antimo, a silent witness to centuries of history. Fanti owns 10 hectares of Sangiovese here, spread across various hillside plots at altitudes between 350 and 430 metres above sea level. Slate, galestro, clay, tuff – the soils vary from plot to plot, giving the Brunello that complexity which has always characterised the estate. Elisa Fanti, who joined the team in 2007, has fine-tuned the style: less intrusive oak, clearer fruit, greater transparency. 2021 was a year of great harmony in Montalcino: consistent ripeness, pronounced structure, elegant tannins.

"In 2012, I bought the small vineyard Le Gonnare and began to cultivate it. It represents the excellence of the Bolgheri terroir. The soil is clayey and rich in skeleton, which allows for very gradual ripening, a particularly important aspect for Merlot. The character of the wine is therefore Mediterranean, but balanced." Fabio Motta