Wines from Tuscany

When a princess decided in 1958 to start bottling wine, she didn't do it just any old way, but with a high standard of quality. Eleonora Ruspoli Berlingieri, who brought the historic Lilliano estate near Castellina in Chianti into the family's ownership as early as 1920, was the first to recognise the oenological potential of this site. At her side was Giulio Gambelli, the legendary Sangiovese guru and one of the great interpreters of Tuscan wines. Today, brothers Giulio and Pietro Ruspoli carry on the legacy – the family still resides in the historic Palazzo Ruspoli in the heart of Rome. The Chianti Classico named after them comes from around 40 hectares of vineyards on limestone-rich, stony Alberese soils, which, at an altitude of around 300 metres, delay the ripening of the grapes and thus preserve both acidity and aromatic freshness. The organically farmed vineyards produce a cuvée comprising 90% Sangiovese, complemented by five% each of Colorino and Merlot – a classic blend that complies with DOCG regulations and highlights the typical character of the region.

When an artist founds a winery, the spirit of this artist wafts right into the last cellar room. The Brio label shows a detail from a fresco by Sandro Chia: chessboard, violin, clock. Existence, soul, time. An unusually serious statement for an entry-level wine. The wine behind it lives up to it. Sangiovese from the Scansano vineyards of Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte – young vines on volcanic soils, close to the sea, cool nights. A few months in wooden barrels, then bottle ageing.

In the Tuscan dialect, "Botro" means a ditch, a natural channel that carries water away. "Dei Fichi" refers to the fig trees. The Botro dei Fichi is already mentioned in the cadastral records of the 18th-century Leopoldine Land Survey – a small depression on the estate that gave its name to a wine long before Vermentino was grown here. The vineyard lies at an altitude of 50 metres, facing west, on volcanic soil with a high proportion of scree. No sand dunes, no alluvial deposits – volcanic rock that lends the grape variety structure and minerality. Fermentation for 30 days in unglazed, raw concrete vats at a controlled temperature of 18°C, using indigenous yeasts. At least three months sur lies. No oak.

Il Poggiones Rosso di Montalcino is dark and youthful, with nuances of blackcurrant and liquorice balanced by ashy rock. Silky and enveloping on the palate with a savoury core of minerality and bright acids, followed by tart red berries. The wine finishes long and lightly structured, but is always fresh and asks for a short stay in the cellar before it can unfold its full charm. A truly straightforward and captivating Rosso in the style of the house. SUPERIORE.DE

Vino nero – is what the Tuscans once called their red wines. With this name, the Rivetti family takes up an old tradition and makes it the flagship of their Casanova estate in Terricciola. Twenty-year-old Sangiovese vines are rooted in sandy soils of marine origin, whose oceanic sediments give the wine its characteristic minerality. After two weeks of maceration, it matures for twelve months in French barriques that have already been filled – subtle enough not to mask the fruit.

Since the 2015 vintage, Piancornello has been producing a Ciliegiolo in small quantities of 4,000 bottles, which is solid, deep and very distinctive. Intense ruby red colour. The nose reveals very pure, straightforward aromas of ripe cherries and sour cherries, rounded off with spicy notes and hints of medicinal herbs. In the mouth it is rich, with noticeable tannins, but well integrated into the structure, with a solid body and a flavourful, long finish of good complexity. SUPERIORE.DE

A real hidden gem for lovers of elegant white wines: this Trebbiano demonstrates just how versatile the grape variety can be beyond the usual conventions. It comes from biodynamic vineyards in a coastal location near Scansano, shaped by the influence of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Pale gold in colour with delicate green highlights. On the nose, notes of white flowers, green apple, lemon zest and a hint of almond tart unfold. The texture is silky, with a rich creaminess meeting lively acidity and a subtle salty minerality. The finish is of medium length, with a hint of herbal spice and a clean, easy-drinking quality. Maurizio Castelli's rare Trebbiano impresses with its lightness and finesse, without losing its substance – a Trebbiano interpretation with character, freshness and surprising depth. In short: a long-lasting white wine made from Trebbiano Toscano, the sort that wasn't just enjoyed by winemakers in days gone by. SUPERIORE.DE

In May, when the iris – known as "giaggiolo" in Tuscan – bathes the vineyards of Lamole in a violet glow, the soul of this wine is revealed. The name Maggiolo was born from the fusion of 'flower' and 'month': a Chianti Classico that captures the sunny generosity of the high-altitude vineyards, situated between 420 and 655 metres, in liquid form. Unlike the purist Duelame, the Maggiolo relies on a blend of 80% Sangiovese with 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Following visual selection of the grapes, they are fermented separately in stainless steel. The Sangiovese matures for 18 months in large oak casks, whilst the international varieties are aged in barriques; a marriage of structure and suppleness.

With the 2024 vintage, Tolaini is revamping its Chianti Classico range: the previous Vallenuova Annata has been promoted to Riserva, and this entry-level wine – named after the estate itself – takes its place. The grapes come from the vineyards surrounding the estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southernmost corner of the Chianti Classico region, where silty-clay soils mixed with limestone and stones shape the character of the Sangiovese.

Where the Lombards once built their fortress and Frederick II held court, Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi now cultivates his vines – a descendant of Bettino Ricasoli, who invented the Chianti formula in the 19th century. Monti in Chianti, situated at an altitude of 340 to 510 metres, is considered one of the best vineyards in the entire region. Limestone soils, organic farming and three-phase manual harvesting form the basis for this classic Chianti: 90% Sangiovese, supplemented by Canaiolo from our own selection. Matured for twelve months in Allier oak, bottled unfiltered.

The owner of Selvapiana, Francesco Giuntini, and the owner of the Petrognano winery, Cecilia Galeotti Ottieri, have enjoyed a long friendship. Their small winery on the border between Tuscany and Emilia Romagna is located in the centre of the Pomino DOC, which was first mentioned in a document in 1716 and is one of the first four protected appellations in Tuscany (alongside Rufina Classico, Carmignano and Valdarno Superiore). For some years now, the two have been linked by the "Villa Petrognano" project, under which Selvapiana produces one of the most authentic and best Pomino Rosso wines in the region.

A circular forest sits enthroned on the highest point of the vineyard, and inside it rests an Etruscan tomb – over 2,500 years old. Al Passo, "at the passage", is what they call this place, from where the view extends as far as the Torre del Mangia in Siena. Here, where past and present meet, the estate's most popular cuvée is created: equal parts Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown on the silty-clayey limestone soils of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Double selection, 20 days on the skins, then 14 months in French oak – six of which on the fine lees, which gives the wine its silky texture.

A Sangiovese cru that demonstrates the philosophy of single-vineyard viticulture to perfection. Sergio Zingarelli and his team recognised early on the extraordinary potential of the clay-dominated soils of Sant'Alfonso – plots with minimal skeleton content, which create the ideal conditions for concentrated, aromatically complex wines. Sangiovese clones were specifically cultivated here, which harmonise with the clay-rich structures and develop the highest phenol concentrations.

The Rivetti family, who have long since achieved fame with La Spinetta in Piedmont, found their Tuscan terroir for Vermentino in Terricciola. Sandy soils of marine origin, interspersed with oceanic sediments, characterise this white wine with its unmistakable minerality and salty freshness. The vines grow at an altitude of 250 metres on a south-easterly exposure and are cultivated organically. After manual harvesting, the must ferments spontaneously with natural yeasts, after which the wine rests for three to four months on the fine lees in stainless steel.

Michele Satta came to Castagneto Carducci in 1974 – by chance, as he says himself. He stayed forever. Since the first Vendemmia in 1983, his story has grown in parallel with the history of Bolgheri, vintage after vintage, vineyard after vineyard. Miché is his most personal chapter: named after himself, made from grapes that were once simply thinned out. Satta has kept them – and distilled them into a wine that is unrivalled in Tuscany. 100% Sangiovese, Metodo Ancestrale. No second fermentation according to the recipe, no filtration, no dosage – the yeast remains, the perlage develops naturally in the bottle. Pet-Nat in Tuscan, if you like ...

Ten days before the main harvest for Redigaffi and Giusto di Notri, the pre-harvest selection begins at Tua Rita – a selection from the younger vineyards, whose grapes are not intended to achieve the extreme concentration of the great crus, but rather to offer freshness and approachability. This deliberate choice gives rise to the Rosso dei Notri, which has been the estate's flagship wine since 2000. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon form the foundation in equal parts, whilst Syrah and Cabernet Franc add spice and structure. The vineyards are situated on the metal-rich hills near Suvereto, where loamy soils with a high proportion of coarse particles lend the wines that mineral precision which characterises Tua Rita. Vinification takes place in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks, followed by ageing in concrete – no woody notes are allowed to mask the pure fruit.

Ornello is an open wine with beautiful, inviting aromas of ripe, dark fruit, cedar wood, dried herbs, tobacco and incense. All of this has a pleasant depth. Medium to full-bodied with supple tannins and a juicy, ripe finish. Very good value. SUPERIORE.DE

Elisabetta Geppetti has dedicated this Rosato to a woman who came before her: Rosa Mati – the first in the family to believe in the Maremma when others were still turning a blind eye. A woman who invested when this wild coastal landscape in south-western Tuscany was not yet a wine-growing region in the modern sense. That belief was the beginning of everything that Le Pupille is today. And the wine that bears her name is Elisabetta Geppetti's most personal creation – unchanged in its conviction since the first vintage in 2002: 100% Syrah, as a rosé. This is not an obvious choice. In the Maremma, Syrah is primarily known as a powerful red wine. Turning it into a rosé – transparent, fresh, elegant – requires precision.

Barbara Widmer’s Chianti Classico has for years been characterised by clarity and terroir: 100% Sangiovese from plots in Castellina and Radda (230–400 m), on limestone- and clay-rich soils with a south to south-west aspect. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged for around twelve months in stainless steel and cement tanks on the fine lees – deliberately without the use of wood, to allow the grape variety to express itself purely and precisely.