The Wine Advocate

Canalicchio di Sopras Rosso di Montalcino comes mainly from the vineyards of the Cru Canalicchio with soils that have a pronounced clay component and are very rich in intermediate elements such as magnesium, iron and manganese. Depending on the vintage and climate, a small proportion may also come from the Cru Montosoli, where the presence of marl ensures juiciness and minerality.

Wine has been produced here since 1051 – initially by monks, and since 1846 by the Stucchi Prinetti family, now in its seventh generation. Badia a Coltibuono, the "Abbey of the Good Harvest", was the first leading winery in Chianti to switch entirely to organic cultivation. The Riserva is made from massalblend of Sangiovese and historic complementary varieties such as Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo, grown on the highest hills near Gaiole. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts, three weeks' contact with the skins, followed by 24 months in French and Austrian oak barrels. The 2021 vintage benefited from a cool year with late frosts – lower yields, but concentrated quality.

The organically certified Sangiovese grapes for this Chianti Classico are grown in the legendary Conca d'Oro south of Panzano, that amphitheatrical Golden Valley with its unique microclimate of warm days and cool nights. Giovanni Manetti, president of the Consorzio Chianti Classico, vinifies exclusively hand-picked grapes in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts on the chalky Galestro soils of his 170-hectare Tenuta. After three weeks of maceration, the wine matures for 18 months in French oak barrels of various sizes.

A wine of great personality that embodies the entire philosophy of Poggio Bonelli. Poggiassai is the Supertuscan of the house – a modern interpretation of Tuscan winemaking that masterfully combines tradition and innovation. It demonstrates the expertise of a winery that has been honoured over the centuries by the most important noble families in Siena. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of 250 metres in the hills around Castelnuovo Berardenga with a perfect south-west exposure. The carefully hand-picked grapes thrive in ideal conditions on these special soils, where sandy subsoils ensure optimum drainage. Strict selection limits the yield to just 50 centners per hectare - a commitment to uncompromising quality.

Gauggiole comes from a single vineyard in the north-east of the Castiglion del Bosco estate and is vinified exclusively in concrete barrels. Bright, lively red. On the nose, fresh red berry fruits with delicate herbal notes. Well structured in the mouth with cool red fruit flavours like cherry, floral nuances of violet and peppery notes on the finish. Well balanced on the palate with fine tannins and good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

A rare white wine from the heart of Chianti Classico: Il Bianco is the remarkable exception in a terroir dominated by red wine. The white grape varieties used in this exceptional cuvée have been thriving for over 45 years on the historic dry-stone terraces of Castellina in Chianti, which were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019. The blend, comprising 60% Procanico (a local Trebbiano clone), 30% Viognier and 10% Malvasia Bianca, embodies the visionary style of the Swiss Bär-Bettschart family.

From the white earth of Noto, between stone walls, olive trees and orange blossom, rises Doppiozeta, a wine that doesn't illustrate south-eastern Sicily, but condenses it. It is one of the two flagships of the Mazzei family's Zisola project - a deep, finely constructed red that gives Nero d'Avola a voice that is rarely heard: concentrated, serious, supple. The vines grow on calcareous soil on a gentle slope just a few kilometres from the sea. Nero d'Avola is clearly in the foreground here, complemented by Syrah and Cabernet Franc - a precisely placed tension between fruit, flavour and structure. The grapes are harvested by hand with the utmost care, fermented in conical stainless steel tanks, after which the wine matures for around 16 months in French oak, with a small proportion in new wood.

The name Il Bruciato, literally "the fire", recalls a historic, catastrophic forest fire on the Guado al Tasso estate: in the early 20th century, a vast area of woodland on the estate was completely destroyed by fire. Ever since, the wine has told the story of this event in a poetic way – and of the reconstruction, which is also a symbol of perseverance, identity and the connection between the landscape and wine. Since its debut vintage in 2002, Guado al Tasso has used this wine to pursue the idea of an accessible Bolgheri red that remains true to its origins and terroir. The vines grow in the immediate vicinity of Bolgheri Superiore, and the wine is vinified with precision and an eye for balance.

Now in its 30th vintage, it has long been an icon of modern Sicilian winemaking: Planeta's Chardonnay combines the French tradition of grape varieties with the sun-drenched terroir of the south, producing, year after year, one of Italy's most distinctive white wines. The grapes come from two different altitudes: Ulmo at 250 m and Maroccoli at 415 m above sea level. In the glass, it is a radiant golden yellow with slightly greenish highlights. The aroma is intense and refined: yellow tropical fruits, toasted almonds, citrus blossom, vanilla, wet stone and a hint of salty butter. On the palate, it is dense and full-bodied, with ripe fruit, a perfect balance between freshness and creaminess, subtle spice and a long, elegant finish. A cult wine that combines Mediterranean richness with Burgundian nobility. Ideal with lobster, pan-fried fish, poultry in a butter sauce, or even on its own as a great white wine with real character. SUPERIORE.DE

When Giulio Ferrari vinified his first bottles of spumante in Via Belentani in 1902, he dreamed of an Italian sparkling wine on a par with French wines. Today, over 120 years later, this dream has long since become a reality – and Ferrari Rosé is living proof of this. The Fratelli Lunelli have taken the founder's legacy to Alpine perfection. This elegant rosé is made from 60% Pinot Nero and 40% Chardonnay in the high altitudes of Trentino. The vineyards stretch across Val d'Adige, Val di Cembra and Valle dei Laghi, all with south-easterly to south-westerly exposures on the mountain slopes. Here, the grapes benefit from the perfect symbiosis between Alpine freshness and Mediterranean warmth. The Metodo Classico vinification strictly follows French models. After gentle pressing, the first fermentation takes place, followed by traditional bottle fermentation with the winery's own yeasts. The Spumante matures on the lees for at least 20 months – time, which gives the rosé its characteristic creaminess and complexity.

Some wines are named after vineyard sites, others after grape varieties. This one is named after a person: Domenico Staropoli, known as Mimmo, who tended the vineyards of Le Piane for many years. When he died, Christoph Künzli dedicated this wine to him – not as a sentimental gesture, but in recognition of the quiet work without which no great wine can be produced. The Mimmo is more than just a "little Boca". Its Nebbiolo components come from the same plots, are vinified to the same standards, and it is only after two years' barrel ageing that a tasting determines which components will become the Boca and which the Mimmo. The Nebbiolo is complemented by Croatina and Vespolina from century-old vines at Montalbano and Santuario. Twelve months in tonneaux, followed by twelve months in large Slavonian botti – time that you can really taste.

Feudi di San Gregorio's DUBL project was born in 2004 from an awareness of the great richness of the autochthonous vines of the Irpinia region and the desire to open up new horizons for them: as a Metodo Classico Spumante or by means of the famous Méthode Champenoise. An advisor was quickly found for this - none other than Anselme Selosse, who is known for his champagnes and his feeling for the particularities of the vines and vineyards.

At some point in the history of Nals Margreid, the Gambero Rosso even declared Sirmian to be the best white wine in Italy. We are not surprised. Above Nals, in the Sirmian district, the slopes lie between 500 and 700 metres above sea level. South-east facing, alpine climate: mild summers, cool autumns, a long growing season that ends in mid-October with the harvest. The soil is a geological archive: Permeable glacial moraine of limestone, gneiss, mica, slate and marble, deposited millions of years ago by glaciers in the Western Alps, resting on porphyry, the volcanic bedrock of the bedrock.

A declaration of love for Tuscany – that is how the Ferragamos describe their purest expression of the variety. The Vigna Polissena vineyard lies on schist soils with perfect drainage, a terroir tailor-made for Sangiovese. James Suckling once compared the wine produced here to the finest Brunellos. The must rests on the skins for twenty-two days before being transferred to Allier barriques – a third of which are new. For eighteen months, the wood shapes the structure without overshadowing the wine's character. A further six months in steel give the wine time to find its feet.

Pinot Grigio Unterebner is an exceptional wine: golden yellow in colour, with elegant aromas of blossom honey, lavender and tropical fruits. Delicate, buttery notes; very well-balanced and charismatic, with a long and full-bodied finish. SUPERIORE.DE

A limited-edition anniversary release featuring a special label to mark the birthday of the icon of modern Sicilian winemaking: 30 years of Planeta Chardonnay – and to celebrate the anniversary, the label is on fire. Not literally, but almost: "On Fire" is the title of the artwork by Claire Fontaine that adorns the 2024 vintage in a limited edition. The artist collective, founded in Paris in 2004 and based in Palermo since 2017 – whose work "Foreigners Everywhere" gave its name to the 2024 Venice Biennale – has transformed the flame emoji into a light sculpture: extracted from the digital realm, made physical, bewitchingly beautiful. The original hangs in Ulmo's Studiolo, just a few steps away from the Chardonnay vines. The special edition is available in 300 Jeroboams – and only one of the six 0.75-litre bottles per case bears the art label. The proceeds go towards "A Long and Magnificent Walk", a greening project in the archaeological park of Selinunte: a symbolic act against the fires that threaten Sicily every summer. Thus, an anniversary becomes a statement – and a Chardonnay becomes a manifesto.

Contrada 2020 is a monumental Nero d'Avola that tells the story of old vines. Grown in Bastonaca, near Vittoria, these vines are rooted in mineralised red clay soils infused with limestone and silicate – this is the fundamental terroir that COS works out biodynamically with clear standards, as 100% Nero d'Avola from over 50-year-old Alberello vines is cultivated exclusively organically. After spontaneous fermentation, the wine matures in small oak barrels – an ageing process that adds depth and spicy finesse without drowning in wood.

Rosso delle Fontane from the single vineyard of the same name beguiles with its light ruby red colour and subtle scent of dark cherries, followed on the palate by redcurrant, hints of tar, suede and a well-measured amount of Amarena cherry. Salty-mineralic, never-ending finish. Highly elegant in its entirety and packaged with COS's own noble restraint. Burgundian greatness and a beacon of the Vittoria DOC appellation! SUPERIORE.DE

Deep, bright ruby red colour. Stunning aromas of floral dark berries, flint and attractive aromatic spices. Then fresh and juicy, but with a creeping concentration of blue and black fruit flavours, lifted by a zesty minerality and lively, harmonious acidity. The spicy, long finish is reminiscent of cloves, black pepper and coriander. A great wine, and we know now at the latest: The Catania family has a real knack for Cerasuolo di Vittoria. SUPERIORE.DE

Pure Sangiovese from western Tuscany is not comparable with the interpretations from Montalcino or Chianti Classico due to its cultivation near the coast, but this somewhat different facet is in no way inferior to the aforementioned. Saturated, light ruby red colour. Intense and complex bouquet of cherries, lilac and broom, densely woven on the palate with black cherries, spices and grilled herbs, the whole framed by a terrificfreshness and lightness. A supple and elegant wine whose well-balanced acid wire not only provides the necessary structure, but also the framework for a wonderful further ageing phase. SUPERIORE.DE

As always, the Cerviolo is excellent: concentrated, with the aroma of red cherry, sweet tobacco, walnut and wild mushroom. Silky and multi-layered on the palate, with balsamic and spicy notes, dense and soft, with absolutely harmonious tannins. A marvellous wine! SUPERIORE.DE

The relatively new Colli Tortonesi DOC is probably still one of Piedmont's least well-known wine-growing regions. The term 'Derthona' is already being used as an umbrella term. It is the old name for Tortona, a small town in the centre of the DOC. The indigenous white grape variety Timorasso led a rather obscure existence for many years, but today some winemakers are already calling it the "white Barolo". This is due, on the one hand, to the wines' great complexity and finesse, and on the other, to their outstanding ageing potential. Furthermore, the grapes often vary in size and ripeness at harvest, which makes the selection process – just as with the great Nebbiolo crus – a major challenge.

In the treasure troves of time, where ancient wisdom meets modern vision, Petruna Anfora is born – a tribute to the origins of viticulture and at the same time a revolutionary expression of pure Sangiovese. The hand-picked grapes for this extraordinary experiment in clay and time come from the unique single vineyard Casa al Coltro, where slate soils at an altitude of 350 metres force the vines to achieve the utmost concentration.